In order to get a base point from where to discover what is causing the FTF I always do a clean and lube with Eezox which is a dry film product that goes on wet and dries leaving a slick surface on all parts. Paying particular attention to the chamber area to assure that a loaded round will just drop freely in all the way. Then assure that the extractor will hold on to the case all the way to ejection. Then I load a full magazine(a known good mag) of CCI Standard Velocity (CCI SV is what S&W tests with) to see if the pistol functions as it should. If, I still have FTF then I'll know that it is not ammo/cleaning/extractor/magazine related. Good luck, these are nice pistols. I've only fired one once, but it was reliable/accurate. Regards

 

Well, there are gunsmiths, and then there are GUNSMITHS as well all know.

Kaz, thank you. I will keep trying. I do like the firearm... the looks, the heft in the hand, that wild and crazy toggle action... and single shot it is accurate.

 

A majority of malfunction in auto pistols is due to the magazine. Extractors are another source of problems. Have you tried several magazines?

I would document the kind of failures you're experiening. Failure to Feed? is the slide not picking up the cartridge from the magazine? Is it picking it up but not feeding into the chamber? Is the nose hitting the feed ramp or the top of the barrel abover the chamber? and stopping?
Is the round not going off when the trigger is pulled?
Is the fired round not being extracted from the chamber? or not being ejected? is it a stove pipe jam? the fired cartridge prevents the next round from chambering? Is the failure always the first round or last round out of the magazine?

It's possible the gunsmith cannot duplicate the failures - like when you take a car into the shop. Being able to describe the type of failure(s) you're experiencing might help the smithy diagnose and repair.

Has anyone else fired the gun?

I've had a few occasions where CCI 40g solid Minimags worked in autos when nothing else would.

 

Several of us on here have these and have problems with them. Mine used to run 100% until a couple years ago, when it started acting up, and I don't have it sorted out yet.

Mine feeds and fires perfectly. But two or three times per mag, it will fail to fully extract. For some reason the extractor jumps the rim while the empty is only about halfway out of the chamber. The bolt then continues to the rear, picks up the next round in the mag, and jams it into the underside of the half-extracted empty.

I suspect the extractor spring has lost strength. I found and downloaded disasembly instructions on the net but it looks like a real PITA to take apart so I haven't gotten around to it yet.

 

In the rimfire pistol section I found how to disasasembly and clean these guns but I have never shot mine so it's nice and clean.

 

Don't know about the Stoeger, but my brother's Erma

. . . KGP-69 is very persnickity as to what ammo it will feed. Not sure if its pressure, or bullet nose profile, as when jams occur, it is on various counts from magazine. Rather discouraging, having to sort them out, so he doesn't take it out very much.

You are right though, that toggle action is kinda hip.

Hope you get problem sorted it.

 

While not a Stoger Luger, My Model 41 started to FTE. It's seen many thousands of rounds. Replaced the extractor spring and I'm back in buisiness.

 

Bought my Stoeger Luger NIB back in Jan. 1979. Took it out to shoot it the first time and I didn't get a magazine through it before the sear bar broke into 3 pieces. Took back to my dealer who sent it back to Stoeger. They repaired it and sent it back along with the broken sear bar. Took it back out and had the same thing happen again. When they returned it a second time, I retired it to the safe and it has never been fired again.

Wayne38

 

All replies read and appreciated. The Luger is at the local Gander Mountain right now, letting their smith have a look at it. I'll report back if anyone is interested.

Note to 1911... yep, same problem with either the aftermarket mag or the original. And about the original... while shooting, after the last round was fired, and the action left open, something let loose and the spring propelled everything inside the mag straight up and out.

 

Have a couple of them....never had a problem, cycled everything I've put through them without fail.

 

Have a couple of them....never had a problem, cycled everything I've put through them without fail.

You are one of the lucky few. I had one. Tried different mags, ammo and so forth. Always a FTF every few rounds. Every now and then I got lucky and shot a whole mag. I wish they did work better. I have a few Lugers and I really wanted a good on in 22 to go with them.

 

Well, guys, my second gunsmith gave it his all, and even read all the posts here on this thread that I printed out. I THOUGHT that one time when I was trying to fire it , the **** thing shot two rounds instead of one.... The gunsmith had it go fully auto and got off six.

Initial investment, lots of frustration at the range, two different gunsmiths... I will sell this one as a parts gun. This lemon is ending right here with me.

Thanks again for your help... I envy you guys that have 'good ones'!

 

The early models had smooth grips and the later ones cane with checkered grips. The first models were made to only shoot HV ammo, CCI Stingers work the best.
The later model was changed to shoot all 22 LR ammo but would still shoot better with CCI Stingers.

 

The local gunshop just got one of these in. Read the preceeding posts and think I'll pass on it.

 

Rimfire Newbie From Centerfire World With A New Stoeger

Hi All,
This is my first post here, and I hope it kinda fits. I've used and reloaded for a dizzying array of centerfires but never understood the appeal of a rimfire until a week ago when I was exploring a small town pawn shop and saw an almost pristine Stoeger Luger. I bought it for $249.99 with no box or papers and only a single magazine. Got another can of Ballistol and cleaned 'er up, and set out with a 350-pack of Federal Auto Match for the range.

Whooee, what a blast! No misfires at all, just one happy mag after another and does this thing ever shoot tight! I'm in love for sure now. So, here I am, a new and willing recruit to the rimfire world. I did read a fair amount of posts to the effect that these 22s are not real Lugers, and then there were some coming back with the fact that Stoeger owns the rights to the name and so anything they build and call a Luger is, by definition, a real Luger,

Here's my take. The prototype for our American idea of the Luger is the P '08 we encountered in war and that was originally marketed here by Stoeger as a "Luger" between the wars. It's action works very simply like this: three pins, at the breech face, the toggle, and the rear of the bolt are located in relative alignment with the recoil thrust vector, a line we can draw through the barrel axis, the bolt, and out the rear of the receiver. The forward and rearward pins are directly in line with the thrust vector and the toggle is ever so slightly below the thrust line. The barrel and bolt are latched together and slide back in recoil on the receiver floor, then they part when the toggle pin is cammed upward. The breechblack continues backward extracting the case, cocking the striker, and returning to strip and chamber a new round as the barrel and bolt reacquire each other in battery.

Stoeger says in its manual that the 22 Luger is an improved toggle action, so let's examine that claim. Again, the thrust vector passes through the barrel axis, through the bolt, and out the rear of the receiver. This time the toggle pin is ever so slightly above the thrust vector while the other pins are directly aligned with it. Upon firing, the case pushes on the breechblock but the breechblock only returns the recoil thrust times the cosine of the angle of incidence on the center of the toggle pin. That slight surplus of recoil energy at the case accelerates the breechblock and engages the recoil spring (called the drive spring by Stoeger), and the mainspring as the hammer is cocked. The sin of the angle of incidence of recoil energy acts upwards vertically to drive the toggle up and allow the bolt to move backwards. So the Stoeger has eliminated the locked barrel/breech, and replaced the striker with a simple hammer while containing the 22 LR pressure with a lower parts count.

The stamped toggle parts act as an effective dust cover for the bolt, hammer, and springs. By the way, the Stoeger in its early form (made from 1969 through 1979, the early form had a forged aircraft-grade T-6 aluminum frame with a steel barreled action of mid-carbon 1050 steel) sat its toggle action atop and within a "tub" or "chassis" of steel so no aluminum/steel interaction could occur. To my knowledge that is the first use of this modern "chassis" concept that is now so successful in all our polymer guns. So, by my analysis and my emprirical observations the Stoeger Luger is operationally a real Luger, and is manifestly a gem of engineering reasoning and manufacturing excellence.

Now, having said all that, it's also plain that the Colt Woodsman, and Ruger Mk I and many others also "improved" the toggle action (improving it away altogether) with an even lower parts count, and this solution must have been apparent also to the Stoeger engineers at the time. Evidently, the thinking must have been that the allure of the Luger was simply too powerful to pass up the opportunity---both for the ultimate buyers and for the builders themselves. That mystique certainly worked on me, as it was love at first sight, which I'm happy to report still thrives.after the tasting :2ar15smil

 

Welcome to the forum.

If the bug bites you, we will see you around here a lot in the future.

Enjoy your new pistol.

 

My Stoeger.....

....bought it at Bergner's Dept. Store in Peoria, Ill. in about 1973, BNIB with 2 mags, a loader, a holster, everything for about $125. Sold it a couple years later for what I paid for it and thought I made a "deal".

I regret it everyday, it was a sweet little pistol and cool as hell. I never had any problems with it, but I probably only shot about 500 rounds thru it.

Now they sell.....if you can find one.....for 3 or 4 times what I paid new.

Ferox34

 

Greatscout, I'm watching the "Classifieds" waiting for the Stoeger to go up for sale. I could use some parts.

 

I purchased a Stoeger Luger a few years ago for about $225.00 at a LGS. It was a 1985-86 model and made from steel-not alloy. I really wanted it, even though the LGS owner kept telling me it was very finicky. I had alot of feeding issues with the magazines and it only liked CCI Mini-mag solids. I bough extra mags for it from Triple K, but still had feeding issues. Since this was the height of the ammo scare and CCI Mini-mags were very hard to find, I ended up trading it for a used Henry H001 rifle and several 100 round boxes of 22lr. It was really a very cool pistol, but it was frustrating and a pain to disassemble/reassemble-even more than a Ruger Mark III 22/45. The Henry rifle was very simple, ran almost any ammo and worked perfectly.

 

The toggle action not working well

Hello folks,

I'm new and first time to post.

I got a old model of the Luger .22. It shoots fine except Browning HP. Never had problems with CCI, even not CCI HV. But the problems are with the toggle: it's hard to feed. Sometimes I'll have to pull the trigger and then pull the toggle and it will work. I know it's not a right thing to do but cannot figure out what the problems are.

The gun is in pretty good shape and don't see much wear and tear. Is that a design problem?

Thanks in advance.

JZ

 

Have you....

...given it a good cleaning?? You said it was an older model, maybe it just needs a tune-up?

Ferox34

 

Replace every spring that you can find.

http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/stogerluger.aspx

 

Thanks guys. But I have never dismantled a Luger. Not sure if I may break anything.

One more question. I heard that if the gun has checkered grips then it's late version; if smooth grips, then older. The frame of the late version is made of steel; or aluminum. Mine is smooth, not checkered.

I tested my using a piece of magnet. Guess what, it sticks. Does that mean it's a later model; or someone replaced the checkered grips by smooth ones. To my knowledge, magnet won't stick to aluminum, will it?

Please check the photo. If the photo is too big. I will have to redo it later.

Thanks again.

 

One more phone.

 

Picture shows an alloy frame. Steel frame looks like this at safety lever.

 

Steel frame?

Stoeger never made a steel frame .22 Luger with a "F" and "S" on the safety. Red or green dots on the steel frame are an easy way to tell steel from aluminum.

Either the pic was deliberately faked to play games or you have one killer magnet that is attaching itself to the steel parts inside the gun.

Last option: Stoeger prototype. Yea, right. LOL

 

Stoeger never made a steel frame .22 Luger with a "F" and "S" on the safety. Red or green dots on the steel frame are an easy way to tell steel from aluminum.

Either the pic was deliberately faked to play games or you have one killer magnet that is attaching itself to the steel parts inside the gun.

Last option: Stoeger prototype. Yea, right. LOL

Prolly the Mitchell...