A plain no letter 56. A Stevens version of the Savage 4 box fed (or like Savage 5 tube fed. Edited 4&5.)

The stuff on the left is just residue of a person mimicking checkering.

Look at the cocking knob. With the bolt closed, pull it back and it will rotate clockwise into a safety notch like Savage shotguns.

Pre-1940/41, Savage Stevens Springfield made .22s. WW2 took over their manufacturing capacity. I “think” they just sold New Old Stock between about 1940-41 and 1947 when they demilitarized. Think of them making 1,000,000 British #4 rifles and the US’s Thompson’s and other things.

The 5’s and 56’s had versions. They switched to a version of sliding safety that was minimally effective. And then to the common and effective sliding safety used on many .22’s they made with little retention nubs on a spring.

On yours, I “think” the stem RED rotates clockwise BLUE to fit in a notch GREEN.

 

A plain no letter 56. A Stevens version of the Savage 5.

Actually, since it's box magazine fed it's a version of the Model 4 Savage, the 5 was tube magazine fed. All the variations of these can get confusing. You have to pull back on the cocking knob with some force before it will turn. There is some discussion on this type of bolt & safety in this thread - 1291377/#post-13251588

EDITED IN - I noticed the plugged holes in the barrel for a scope block, looking back at your picture I now see some on the receiver too. Do not rule these out as not being original, if they look like there were done before the gun was blued, they might be original. Guns sold through Spiegel were listed in the catalogs as being drilled & tapped to take standard scope blocks and could be purchased with special Spiegel versions of Mossberg scopes. The Mossberg scopes for Spiegel had extended sunshades on the front. I have a few Spiegel catalogs, I will try and see if this Model is listed in any of them.

 

Thanks for the reply. I read about the safety being in the cooking knob but after cocking that knob won't budge.

However, after cocking, putting the bolt into vertical position disengages the trigger sear so that it won't fire. It's awkward but the bolt handle stays up... as long as you don't knock it over or drop the rifle!

If you look closely, the cocking knob moves back slightly with the bolt handle raised in the second photo.

 

In fact I was just about to ask about the tapped holes on the receiver, if some kind of modern scope mount could be added. The tapping does look "after market" to me.

 

Okay I see the safety cock now. With the bolt open, pulling and rotating the knob counter clockwise locks the bolt open so it won't close to fire. It does take considerable force and I needed to use pliers to pull it back. It might loosen up with time but this is a impractical safety system!

 

We have had an extensive discussion on mounting a scope on these rifles. Basically, the bolt handle raises too high on opening and will not clear the scope. There are ways around this such as forging and reshaping the bolt handle.

 

1). NO. Your post 6 above is simply wrong. That is not the safety and not safe.

2). Pliers and gun do not belong in the same paragraph.

3). How To:

Close bolt with handle rotated down locked shut and striker cocked to the rear.

Pull striker knob harder to the rear and turn clockwise.

Very effective safety. Just pull harder.

Alternatives: Lack of strength or

something broken inside bolt. (unlikely.)

From referenced thread.

Photo the top rear of your 56 bolt.

 

1). NO. Your post 6 above is simply wrong. That is not the safety and not safe.

2). Pliers and gun do not belong in the same paragraph.

3). How To:

Close bolt with handle rotated down locked shut and striker cocked to the rear.

Pull striker knob harder to the rear and turn clockwise.

Very effective safety. Just pull harder.

Alternatives: Lack of strength or

something broken inside bolt. (unlikely.)

From referenced thread.

View attachment 456403

Photo the top rear of the 56 bolt.

Okay, I got all this now. Pull back and turn clockwise. The cocking knob is REALLY hard to pull and there's no way I could do this in the field. For this reason I'm not likely to use it as a field rifle but if I had to it would be best not to load and cock until ready to fire. I have other rifles with the knob safety like that and they are not nearly as hard to pull back to safety. Thanks everyone for all the help.

 

Pressman, Yes and No. The OP’s raggedy holes are aftermarket 10x32 holes for who knows what scope mount. The scope is in the way unless you have that mount that is high and left.

IF THE HOLES had been factory, a Weaver T1 mount is a screw on clear the bolt no alteration direct fit with 3/4” scopes. Finding a T1 is a trick. See the obvious:

 

I got the same rifle. That was what I learned to shoot with. I have packed mine alot of miles chasing squirrels and racoons. Then on my trapline. I just cleaned it up and thought about all the good hunts and put it away.

 

🍺Wahoo!

 

Interesting rifle. Thanks for sharing all.

 

That might actually be a Tack Driver with a vintage scope and shot off a bench!

 

The two bigger holes on the side definitely look to have been done aftermarket, I was referring to the two smaller holes on top possibly being factory for mounting scope blocks, you have two on the barrel that are slightly closer together for a front scope block. These look like they could have been done before the gun was blued. With scope blocks you could mount a variety of scopes if you had the proper rings.

Spiegel is the only company I know that offered this option. The first year they did this was 1936 and they had Marlin scopes that year, in 1937 they went to standard Mossberg scopes and in 1938 they had a special line of Mossberg scopes made exclusively for them.

1937, first year for scopes and only year with Marlin scopes -

A couple of the special Mossberg scopes, external and internal adjustment versions from the 1941 catalog -

Examples on rifles, a Stevens Model 49 pump and a Mossberg M42B, both rifles are versions made exclusively for Spiegel and came drilled & tapped for scope blocks -

 

Great images and info, thanks! There are two tapped holes filled with machine screws in front of the rear sight, and two more between the bolt handle and ejection port, all on top of the barrel. They look original as the screw heads have bluing on them that match the barrel. The arrangement looks most like the Buckhorn repeater for $17.95, second rifle from the top.

 

One less squirrel stealing bird seed in my back yard this morning, easily dispatched him with one shot from 17 yards.

 

That is so similar to my Model 52...

 

That was an awesome find being in the right place at the right time and thanks for sharing maybe I can get that lucky someday

 

I have one of these, the safety does take a little getting used to and it is hard to pull back and rotate to the safe position, but I do think that is the way they were designed. Some info I have in my files:

The name "Buckhorn" was issued to a series of rifles starting in 1935. Buckhorn models were the 53, 56, 66 & 76. These were sold in two models with plain sights with no "0" prefix or with peep sights with the "0" prefix, i.e. 066 vs. 66. The "0" was never stamped on the barrel and used for catalog use only. In 1936 the 056 rifle sold at $10.95. This was the first year for the stock without the finger grooves. In 1938 it sold at $10.50 and in 1940 at $11.25. Stevens, Savage and Springfield were all the same rifle with some embellishments and all based on the Savage Model 4. The rotary safety on the bolt was introduced in 1934. Pull the bolt back and rotate to the right. Savage started to drill and tap receivers for a scope in 1937. The Savage 19 folding rear sight was introduced in 1936. The Stevens #100 front sight and #105 Peep sight were introduced in 1935. The original scope holes were matched with a Weaver T1 or T2 mount. The Weaver 329 was the choice of the day, ca. 1937. A Weaver N2 (Low) or N3 (High) mount will fit the factory holes on the model 56 & 66 rifles. The hard rubber butt plate was added in 1935. In 1938 the bolt design changed to cock on opening and the safety was moved to the right side of the action. 1940 started the cast metal trigger guards.

Mine is/has:

• Drilled and tapped for an old 2 screw scope mount on left side.
• Marked "Stevens Buckhorn Rifle" under barrel
• Stevens #19 Rear, Original
• Stevens Hooded #100 Front Sight, Original with 1 post aperture.
• Stevens #105 Peep sight, Original

 

Very Nice !