simple green is totally awesome!

 

I gotta say, your well prepared for anything you come across on that ol' girl. The only thing I would add is a can of compressed air to blow out excess oil.

and beer. Can't forget the beer. :beerchug:

 

Gotta agree with ya there!! With all these supplies I'm gonna need some more model 60's to fix up. Which means Simple Green gets +1, cause I can put that under the sink and my wife won't be the wiser :bthumb:

Please note: pictures fuzzy due to beer in left hand...

Canned air? Good idea...check. Got one for the computer key boards already.

And, reading just the ingredients on the back of the brake cleaner can, the precautions, and the fact that I had to be 21 to buy it...is giving Simple Green another +1.

 

Another very good degreaser is Mineral spirts low oder variety. Took the old caked on cosmoline right off the AK47 I bought... lickty split!

 

The only advice I can give here is that every gun owner should have at least one spray can of PB Blaster on hand (for any stuck parts), and maybe some of their other/newer products. Trust me, this company makes some very cool stuff....and last fall I even noticed that H/Depot was carrying a lot of their stuff. I just tried their Dry Lube spray on both my son's truck and a bunch of tools in my shop and I am most impressed. Will never use WDForty again........

http://www.blasterchemical.com/PB_Blaster.html

 

The Results of Simple Green vs. Non-chlorinated Brake cleaner
Side A: Brake Cleaner
Side B: Simple Green

Before:

Prior to Spaying: (Side A Brake Cleaner; Side B Simple Green)

Below soaking for 1 minute. But I used more of a continuous spray for the brake cleaner so that I was using it as directed. Simple Green just a couple quick squirts.

I then wiped them off and rinsed:

Although side B looks a little better in the photo, the picture is too dark to see that there is still a yellow film on the brake cleaner side. In fact, where the Simple Green flowed to the brake cleaner side it took off the residue.

Therefore, I am going with the Simple Green for many reasons. Although Simple Green is a little more expensive, it would be cheaper by volume (only took brief squirts, brake cleaner sprayed as directed uses a lot. And, Simple Green can be used around the house)

The Simple Green flat out took all the yellow petrified oil off where as the Brake cleaner did not.

The Brake cleaner contains: Methanol, Toluene, Acetone and Heptane. It also has a precaution that runoff should be collected and disposed of properly.

I then cleaned the action assembly with Hoppes and CLP and my tradtional method of tooth brushes, brass brushes, pipe cleaners etc .without taking it apart. When I was finished, I filled one of my wife's mixing bowls with hot water and a few squirts of simple green. I let it soak for a few minutes. I went back and agitated the assembly (like trying to get whiskers out of my razor) and all kinds of crap went to the bottom of the bowl (despite thinking I had cleaned it). Even the carbon I had missed came off in sheets.

Pretty awesome.

 

I use most of the products that you have pictured. I'm in love with Simple Green and Howard Feed-N-Wax - been pushing the stuff for around 15 years here, long before we were known as rimfire central.

I can't get excited about B/C's perma blue or denatured alcohol, read the caution regarding it's use. I substitute Brownell's Oxypho bule for the B/C stuff but agree with the RemOil selection, it's my standard. I haven't tried Flitz but I have heard that it's very good.

FNW is quite versatile. Depending on the stock you are using it on, anything from brand new to trashed beyond belief can be made to look better.

Brand new, just wipe it on, wait about 20 minutes and wipe it off. Polish the next day. Trashed, use it liberally with a pad of fine steel wool lightly applied. It removes dirt, grease, paint splatters, you name it. Wipe it off then apply another coat, wipe that off after 20 minutes, polish the next day. I use it on all metal too.

 

I use most of the products that you have pictured. I'm in love with Simple Green and Howard Feed-N-Wax - been pushing the stuff for around 15 years here, long before we were known as rimfire central.

I can't get excited about B/C's perma blue or denatured alcohol, read the caution regarding it's use. I substitute Brownell's Oxypho bule for the B/C stuff but agree with the RemOil selection, it's my standard. I haven't tried Flitz but I have heard that it's very good.

FNW is quite versatile. Depending on the stock you are using it on, anything from brand new to trashed beyond belief can be made to look better.

Brand new, just wipe it on, wait about 20 minutes and wipe it off. Polish the next day. Trashed, use it liberally with a pad of fine steel wool lightly applied. It removes dirt, grease, paint splatters, you name it. Wipe it off then apply another coat, wipe that off after 20 minutes, polish the next day. I use it on all metal too.

Good info! In fact...I've been doing stuff the hard way for a long time.
I've actually had good luck with the liquid blue for minor touch ups. I've never used the paste. I've seen the Oxypho blue on the posts and am eager to try that as well.

Next, I did some work on my bolt that I picked up from some of the other threads that I have not tried before. (I'm definately apprehensive about trying this stuff on some of my expensive firearms...but so far so good....it's been a great learning experience.

 

Okay,

Now I tried to shine the bolt, the side that is visible in the reciever. In addition, I knocked down some of the tooling marks underneath. I didn't realize that there is a little protruding wheel underneath the bolt, but fortunately noticed before I did any damage. The bottom of the bolt has a surface like a file, and I knocked that down to smooth as a baby's petut. Disclaimer: To my knowlege no Model 60's have been injured while conducting these tests.

Here is the original bolt:

I then tried various wet/dry sandpapers on my sharpening block to prevent rounding of corners. I'm very paranoid about removing too much metal, so I worked backwards starting with 1500 grit and kept using more abrasive grits until I saw improvement. I made it all the way down to 220 grit before I saw any change in the bolt and then worked progressively back up through the grits back to 1500.

I then was a little disappointed in my work so I decided to try the Flitz. That did it. All though it says it is a non abrasive, it took out the discolorations and improved the appearance remarkably. So it worked as well. The picture doesn't do it justice, but if you look close you can see my fingers and camera.

I almost forgot. No power tools were used. I saw various polishing compounds and buffing wheels at the hardware store that probably could do a better job. Although the price gets higher and higher. I was also attempting to find a way to do this at the dinner table. Which is exactly where I did this.

Please note as well: None of these ideas are mine. I am simply following instructions and ideas from previous posters and following instructions on the back of the products. But also...sometimes there are debates as to which products to use...therefore I am actually enjoying this quite a bit.

 

The "done by hand" is the best in my opinion you can do. Its very cool to bring a gun back to life.

 

Oh yea!! I'm diggin it....:bthumb:

Below is my attempt at improving the photo postings. This gun is made in what, 1972? Awesome:

Now you can see the camera and my thumbs.

Before Simple Green and Oil:

And after: (Looks a little heavy on the oil in the photo) I don't have the guts to pull this thing apart yet. I want to shoot it first, and then pull
it apart when I work on the accuracy portion of this project. Then I will pull it apart when I do the sear while following the sticky.

THE NEXT AREA WILL BE THE BLUING AND SURFACE RUST:
Before Photos:
Area to be reblued:

Surface Rust actually is almost invisible to naked eye (photo makes it a lot easier to see):

 

Now...those who have been around awhile probably won't get too much out of this, but using advise from previous posts, here goes nothin:
Using 0000 Steel Wool and RemOil:

Here is before:

Here is after:

Here is touching up that area with the Bluing Paste:
Before:

During: (sorry about fuzzy picture..holding camera with other hand)

After:

That white streak just above the stamp is actually light and not the metal. The paste was okaaay, easy to use....it recommends apply 2-3 times...I applied 6 or 7. At times I was having problems finding the area to be blued because it appeared to work so well. However, walk out in the sun...and you can still see it...so maybe a few more applications....or next time use the Oxyphol Blue.

I prepped by using the Denatured alcohol as a degreaser. I googled deanatured alcohol and it can also be used on bare wood to remove dust particles before finshing since it doesn't go into the wood pores.

Oh...and one last thing....If my wife asks, the lawn mower wouldn't start.

 

The paste was okaaay, easy to use....it recommends apply 2-3 times...I applied 6 or 7. At times I was having problems finding the area to be blued because it appeared to work so well. However, walk out in the sun...and you can still see it...so maybe a few more applications....or next time use the Oxyphol Blue.

I prepped by using the Denatured alcohol as a degreaser. I googled deanatured alcohol and it can also be used on bare wood to remove dust particles before finshing since it doesn't go into the wood pores.

Oh...and one last thing....If my wife asks, the lawn mower wouldn't start.

I haven't used the Perma Blue before, but I did use their Super Blue liquid on my 60. I found that warming the barrel helps. Not so hot the bluing sizzles when you apply it, just warm to the touch.
My oven was to small, so I used a propane torch. I held it about three inches away and moved it so it took about two seconds to go from one end to the other. Spin it as you move the flame to heat it evenly, then apply the bluing.
I did that every coat for about five coats. That was over a year ago and it still looks good for a home job.

 

So far, so good. You are doing a great job.:bthumb: I can't wait to see the final outcome.

 

Thanks a bunch! The information and knowledge on this website is incredible. It's a lot of fun and it has given me lots of ideas about the next gun show I attend. I'm going to be stopping off at the used tables a lot more now.:bthumb:

And, my son stopped playing video games long enough to watch to see what I was doing. He may just get that youth XT-22 if they will release the things.

 

Here I'm continuing to give the paste the ole college try. This time I tried heating the metal first before the application of the bluing paste as suggested by one of the other posters. I don't have a torch, but do have a Bic lighter. I heated it, but not so much that the paste sizzles. In addition, I prepped using the denatured alcohol, used rubber gloves to prevent oils from my hands from getting on the parts and applied with a q-tip. This time the part only needed 3 applications before I was having a very difficult time telling where on the knob needed bluing.

Before:

And After:

This knob was definately an eye sore before the application with bright shiney metal showing. After the application, despite the slight deformity, it is virtually impossible to notice the defect with the naked eye. Any appearance of silver in the second photo is the light and not raw metal showing.

The paste worked better on the knob than it did on the barrel. However, there is definately enough of an improvement to both areas, without much effort, that could explain why the stuff is still around.

Next up I will be testing the black grill spray paint. I want to test it on some spare aluminum to check adhesion, to see how well the color matches, how scratch resistant it is, and how resistant it is to oils and solvents.

I've decided that instead of attempting to modify the firearm, since I am really appreciating the age of this classic firearm, that I will simply try to stick with restoration with slight enhancements (as opposed to colored charging handles, DIP triggers, etc.).

 

Here I'm continuing to give the paste the ole college try. This time I tried heating the metal first before the application of the bluing paste as suggested by one of the other posters. I don't have a torch, but do have a Bic lighter. I heated it, but not so much that the paste sizzles.

For small parts, you can just hold 'em over a toaster with a wire hanger/other holding apparatus

I don't use torches, lighters, or wood/coal fires, as some of the gasses may cause strange effects or leave residue...
But it looks like it worked for ya

 

Nice Work!

 

Thanks a bunch...there is a ton of information to go through...it almost feels like a research project...

 

Okay...there are a ton of products that are recommended and offered for painting firearms. So, that being said what I am looking for is something inexpensive, but usable. All kinds of stuff available, including paints that you bake. I ruled those out because I need to do some touch ups on the receiver and do not want to have to pull the barrel.

The first stuff up Rustoleum Grill Paint high heat. There was only one color at Home Depot and it was black $3.87. (From the cap looks flat black).

So I took a spare piece of aluminum as a test piece (Thanks to the high winds in Florida my wife has donated her patio umbrella):

First I filed the paint off in 3 sections:

I labeled it because I am going to test solvents and such on the different areas:

A) rough from the file
B) smoothed a little from 220 grit with circular motion
C) sanded very smooth with 220

Still working left to right as listed in the above posting:

Below it is painted as directed on can. Now comes the 48 hour wait to find out how durable this stuff is going to be. The prelimnary painting looks like a pretty good color match, but that's not too hard to do with black...but flat vs. semi-gloss (I'll have to see).

Now once this cures: I can beat on this stuff with a hammer, scratch it with a screw driver, pour Hoppes on it, oil on it, Simple Green etc.

Update: I noticed after 24 hours that my cat had put a small toe nail scratch through the paint. I initially gave the test aluminum 3 coats as directed, by spraying each coat waiting a couple of minutes until it was visibly dry and spraying again. The instructions state that after 48 hours more coats can be sprayed. Since it was so thin, I added several more coats. It should be noted though that the toe nail scratch was in the shined aluminum or labeled "C" (and I was assuming this would have the worst adhesion). I am also noticing that the file marks can be seen through the paint, just barely, so the section that has been smoothed "B" a little is the best so far as appearance. The texture is a little different than on the receiver and trigger guard, it is a little more textured, where the part's original paint is smooth. So, I may try to smooth it as well once cured to see if I can match that as well.

And, the bottom line is this. I love photos in posts. So, if nothing else is acheived, my fellow RFC'er gets his photo fix. (Nothing like a little RFC over coffee in the morning....better than the newspaper).

Here is the trigger guard I will be working on. Looks rough in the photo. Also, the butt plate: I'll try my hand at smoothing that out as well. And there are multiple threads for installing a thin white spacer...that sounds good too.

Here I am starting the stock. I gave it a quick scrub down with Dawn dish detergent and hot water. (Dawns good for a pepper spray antidote as well). Taking photos of a stock is a challenge to show the imperfections. But, I've got some good photos for the before shots. Someone mentioned in one of the posts it takes good back light and also "it is what it is".

While waiting for the paint, I decided to do the butt plate. I used wet/dry sandpaper 220, 400, 600, 1500, then compound (listed as not much good for the bolt, but really helped in taking out the scratches on this plastic.) So really, all that is needed up to this point is the 4 sheets of sandpaper (and I'm still on 1/4 sheets from each), steel wool, oil, Simple Green, cold blue, and I was able to do the barrel, bolt, butt plate, and clean the action assembly (and also possibly the compound):
Before:

and after:

Although some minor imperfections can be seen in the after photo, I can barely notice anything with the naked eye. These things aren't expensive to replace, but it probably took about 15 minutes. (Probably took me longer to document it). The butt plate is one thing I always seem to notice when I look at a firearm sitting on the table at the gun shows. Oh, I did throw on some car wax at the end.

 

Update on progress of paint testing:

So I took a spare piece of aluminum as a test piece (Thanks to the high winds in Florida my wife has donated her patio umbrella):

First I filed the paint off in 3 sections:

I labeled it because I am going to test solvents and such on the different areas:

A) rough from the file
B) smoothed a little from 220 grit with circular motion
C) sanded very smooth with 220

Still working left to right as listed in the above posting:

Below it is painted as directed on can. Now comes the 48 hour wait to find out how durable this stuff is going to be. The prelimnary painting looks like a pretty good color match, but that's not too hard to do with black...but flat vs. semi-gloss (I'll have to see).

Now once this cures: I can beat on this stuff with a hammer, scratch it with a screw driver, pour Hoppes on it, oil on it, Simple Green etc.

I gave the paint an extra day to cure since it is so humid in Florida. 48 hours for first coats, and 48 hours for second coats plus 1 extra day.

I then tried to scratch the paint with my thumbnail. Here is the results:

This image is of the area "C" where it is very smooth. However, the other areas I was able to scratch through as well so no real need to post the photos.

I went to the manufacturers website and read FAQs and tips and tricks. Nothing further really applies other than surface should be slightly roughed with sandpaper...and that primer should not be used and not intended for use.

At first I was a little disappointed that I could scratch through it with my thumbnail, but it wasn't easy. The etched surfaces also gave more resistance to scratching. Also, it didn't chip, I actually had to scrape through it.

Since, it still feels a little gummy with my scraping, I have now placed it in the oven at 170 degrees for 3 hours to see the effects of heat before I go any further. The stuff is rated up to 1200 degrees.

Any suggestions or requests and I'll give them a try...my intent is to see if a <$4 can of spray paint will give me adequate results (at this point I'm fairly certain that minor scrapes on wood etc. the paint would hold up, but I will be messing with it further this afternoon after curing in the oven a bit).

 

Again this is part of Newbie 101:

Now my thoughts on the Wheeler Fat Wrench. First, I normally let the gunsmith mount my scopes etc. I have always been a firm believer in being able to do certain tasks myself (for example: I tear down every new firearm I buy and clean it before I shoot it. I'm gonna have to do it at some time or another...I feel it's getting familiar with it).

Anyway: So after reading multiple posts all over the place, I realized that I needed a torque wrench and man are they pricey. So, I followed the recommendations and bought the following:

Here is the picture of the gauge:

You can just barely see the black line at the very bottom center in the window of the gauge. When the bottom of the wrench is turned it makes that line move up. When this line is just under the line associate with the poundage it is the 5, 15, 25 value. When the black reference line in the window is above the numbered line (but touching) it is the value listed: 10, 20, 30 etc.
You can find them for $45 to $70 by just googling them, or better yet check our sponsors.

This is an example of a company listening to its customers. At first, this didn't come with a case. Now, comes with the nifty case. Then, people complained that they didn't understand the instructions, now the instructions (at least for me are very clear. Also, you have to read the instructions because parts of it are counterintuitive) IE: The movable bar should be under or over the line and not on it to get the different levels of torque. The torque also is adjustable from 5 to 60 INCH POUNDS. (You have to turn the value back to zero after each time you use it or store it...again in the instructions).

Also, from reading the posts, especially on the bolt actions, I quickly learned that the takedown screw torque values affect accuracy. This thing slips right into my range bag. My hands are now getting educated what the different torque values are regardless of the accuracy of this thing (so even if it is off a couple of pounds, for my purposes it works). Therefore, I know on my bolt action rimfire the front action screw likes just a little more than 10 inch pounds. I'm able to clean my gun, and go right back to this setting. Invaluable.

Bam!! Next thing you know I'm mounting my own scopes!! For the people who are already in the "know" might not get too much out of this...but for those reading posts wondering if everyone in the world has an inch pound torque wrench...this may be your answer.

 

Again this is part of Newbie 101:

Now my thoughts on the Fat Wrench. First, I normally let the gunsmith mount my scopes etc. I have always been a firm believer in being able to do certain tasks myself (for example: I tear down every new firearm I buy and clean it before I shoot it. I'm gonna have to do it at some time or another...I feel it's getting familiar with it).

Anyway: So after reading multiple posts all over the place, I realized that I needed a torque wrench and man are they pricey. So, I followed the recommendations and bought the following:

You can find them for $45 to $70 by just googling them, or better yet check our sponsors.

This is an example of a company listening to its customers. At first, this didn't come with a case. Now, comes with the nifty case. Then, people complained that they didn't understand the instructions, now the instructions (at least for me are very clear. Also, you have to read the instructions because parts of it are counterintuitive) IE: The movable bar should be under or over the line and not on it to get the different levels of torque. The torque also is adjustable from 5 to 60 INCH POUNDS. (You have to turn the value back to zero after each time you use it or store it...again in the instructions).

Also, from reading the posts, especially on the bolt actions, I quickly learned that the takedown screw torque values affect accuracy. This thing slips right into my range bag. My hands are now getting educated what the different torque values are regardless of the accuracy of this thing (so even if it is off a couple of pounds, for my purposes it works). Therefore, I know on my bolt action rimfire the front action screw likes just a little more than 10 inch pounds. I'm able to clean my gun, and go right back to this setting. Invaluable.

Bam!! Next thing you know I'm mounting my own scopes!! For the people who are already in the "know" might not get too much out of this...but for those reading posts wondering if everyone in the world has an inch pound torque wrench...this may be your answer.

Can't quite see what brand/model that thing is, but it looks good!

 

I worked a little more on the bolt today. I have been reading threads about how rough these things are. Some of the guys are addressing the bolt tooling marks right out of the box. I did mine and am blowing up the picture right here. Even though you can still see the marks they are a lot smoother to the touch. (Can't feel abrasiveness).

This is really just my best guess from reading the posts, but I can feel the difference, and I imagine the bolt out of the box would be like a file trying to move forward and back in aluminum.

This photo is actually after I polished the bottom using 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface, using it wet, and maneuvering around the little cam on the bottom. Some folks have added to mark it with a marker so you can tell what metal you are removing. I didn't do that, but I will try it when I work on the sear. (The white arrows are pointing to tooling marks that were really rough).

In addition, I tried to polish the exposed side a little better. I used the following polishing compound since I had it laying around. I had it left over from when my wife tried waxing my car with it....or tried removing the clear coat...I'm unsure of her intentions but now my car looks like it has a really bad sunburn. (I used it as directed and although an improvement, I probably wouldn't go out and purchase it specifically for this....or the Flitz polish as well...personally I'm not really seeing that much of a benefit.

But, starting with 600 grit wet/dry, using it wet on a flat surface and progressing to 1200 grit wet/dry, I continued to see improvement. At the end I did not use a flat surface but just held it in my hand and buffed softly under the faucet.

 

"The information and knowledge on this website is incredible."
you said it Fladventurers

nice project and appreciate the 'slow and steady' nature of your work. pretty hard to 'undo' metal removal

 

The key there is "slow and steady" like a slug, got too many projects at once. Ended up at the gun show today..(the real one this time, not showing the family my biceps)...nothing notable...some over priced 39A's with home Bubba modifications, one Marlin 60 in the building (Countless vendors too), no other Marlin rimfires......

This spray paint has not only been mentioned here on RFC (without some of the details) but also there are other websites listing this as an inexpensive alternative (albeit not as good) to the more expensive stuff sold at Brownells and Midway....

Anyway the oven worked good.

Absolutely hard to the thumb nail (although my thumbnails require wire cutters).

1. I rubbed the bar repeatedly on a the edge of wood without rubbing through.
2. I then rubbed it down with wet dry sandpaper 600 and am able to smooth the texture to really similar to whats on the receiver and trigger guard. (The sandpaper, despite a pretty light touch went through the areas that were thinly painted.)
3. I wet it down with oil, no problems there.
4. Banged it repeatedly with various instruments without chipping.
5. Applied a little Hoppes solvent and Bingo we found a weakness...took the paint off like paint stripper as seen below:

But you can see how well the paint matches in the areas where I didn't apply the Hoppes or rub through with the sandpaper.

So...I think this <$4.00 can of spray paint is a Go (matches better with a little smoothing of the texture with sandpaper...judiciously so it doesn't rub through). I'm not sure the oven is necessary and it may have just sped up the curing time...but I will use it.

Some keys were multiple coats resisted everything according to directions. You can see the file marks through the paint and needs to be smoothed without making it like glass (as directed on the can)...

Now I can comfortably make touch ups to the "Squirrelinator"....:bthumb: (Although I think if I had to do larger areas than touch ups I would probably go the more expensive route)

Edited later: Actually the more I think about it, I think I'm going to go ahead and order the good stuff...and, get this rifle as close to pristine as possible...but I'll hold off on future postings until I get serious work done on it...

 

I would love to give credit to those who use and recommended the Howard's products. Absolutely outstanding. I was contemplating stripping the stock...but these products just absolutely work....:bthumb:
Before:

and
After:

On a couple of chips that went to the white wood, I used a walnut colored stain applied with my pinky, and then applied tru-oil---a couple of applications to build it up (I wasn't too concerned about finish compatibility since it went to the bare wood) then lightly buffed with 0000 steel wool...The worst one I've lost completely where I cannot see it at all...the other one, only I will know it is there...

Then applied the Restor-a-finish as directed with steel wool, finished with the Howards wax....and couldn't be happier as to the results...not having to strip the stock...

 

GREAT series Fladventurers, but could you please pick up the pace a bit. I'm not sure I can hold my breath much longer for the next installment.

 

Now this cracked me up Mainly because what I should be doing is putting the gun back together and taking some photos, right? Oh, no no no. I can't just do that....

I was thinking that Brownells, Harbor Freight Tools, and other various company's profit levels are not quite where they should be....and I'm trying to help them out...

I have now officially spent more money on products and tools to refinish this gun than what the gun cost...by a long stretch...

I'm waiting on stuff like:
1. rust blue (can't wait to get this working)
2. Oxypho blue (pretty excited about this one)
3. carding brushes
4. pin punch sets
5. needle files
6. bench block
7. Aluma-hyde II
8. micrometer
9. etc. etc. etc.

In the mean time....since it is taking me so long...and this gun was actually supposed to be for my 12 year old (I intended to buy him a bolt action, synthetic stock, stainless steel, youth gun) So, I went back to the local gun shop to buy him the right gun....

Did I buy him his youth gun? I went in there for one...and yes...I bought him his youth gun in the form of an old Winchester Model 77 semi-auto .22 with Walnut stock....

I'm in great need of help....my wife says I have to spend less time on RFC...I'm not allowed to go into the gun shops alone anymore.....it's been really quite the battle and I should be posting some more pictures by the end of the week....(I need some more model 60s to restore so I'm having to expand my search distances)

Thanks for inquiring though.....:bthumb:

Update alert: Apparently we just shot Osama Bin Laden in the left eye ball, killing him. Initial reports are uncertain if it was a Marlin Model 60, but rumors are that it had a squirrel on the gun stock.

 

I got my package from Brownells in and started back to work. Oxpho-Blue vs. BC paste? No contest hands down Oxpho-blue.

Below I did the screws. I tapped them with a hammer to prevent more metal loss, filed them with needle files, then hit them with a little naval jelly, followed by Oxpho-blue. I had to use a magifying glass. The photos show a lot more details than my eyes:

Before:

And after:

Any trace of white is light or smears of oil. The Oxpho-blue (first time I've used it) made them as black as can be. The stuff is incredible.

Below I've started making some sandbag rests. I went to the store and saw them at $25.00 and made my own. I'll show after photos later. I got the info from RFC. If you find the threads, there was a great debate on what to fill them with (pretty heated as a matter of fact).....I'm simply going to fill them with sand :bthumb:

I learned how to sew from the internet. I googled "how to make a strong stitch" and I was sewing a back stitch :bthumb:. They are durable, easy to shape, and total cost: too many 6 packs of beer...can't fit in them any more. I actually made 4 out of one pair of jeans

In my new supply from Brownells I also got some Rust Blue. That stuff is supposed to be better than hot bluing at a gunsmith. And, it really looks pretty easy. It looks like pretty much the same process as cold...(except better attn to detail on degreasing)...and then boil the parts....so: 1. degrease 2. apply the blue 3. boil 4. card (scrape away) the stuff....5. repeat

I'm going to buy a small section of rain gutter and put it on my coleman camp stove :bthumb:

 

Yes, echo that, great thread and I too can not wait for the next phase, especially the rust blue....:t:t

 

I appreciate that...nice to know people like these kinds of threads....the rebuilds are some of my favorites...so I thought I would give back a little....
And, people get to watch a rookie during his learning curve...

The Marlin 60 is perfect for someone like me...I'm not learning on a really expensive firearm, yet...I'm definately building confidence as I go along to do a little more and to purchase guns that I normally wouldn't buy due to their condition. Now, I'm actually looking for guns in poor conditon.

Here is my last shipment from Brownells:

I bought the Aluma-Hyde II because I've already found my next Model 60, and it is perfect for a rebuild (and recommended on RFC). The receiver is a mess and needs to be stripped and repainted. I wanted a paint that was resistant to solvents for the receiver.

The hammer in the photo $5.00, the needle files was in one of those discount bins at the hardware store $5.00 (I didn't know why I was buying them, but they have already turned out handy), and punches did not come from Brownells.

The bench block....I probably could have gotten away without buying that. It's what $16-$18...a little pricey.

Brownells wraps all their chemicals in plastic bags like that. Nice touch!! The instructions say you can use steel wool for carding the steel after rust bluing, but I bought the hand brush for I think $5. They sell the wheels for drills/buffers but I can't see me doing that many re-blue jobs.

That Simple Green is just turning out to be the best stuff since sliced bread. The oxypho-blue as well. They are those things you use and go "oh yea..." and hit yourself for not buying them sooner :bonk:

 

Working on the trigger guard: I guess the point of this one is that there are annoying little chips, but not enough to take it apart and strip it.

During:

Now comes the wait. I learned from my test piece of metal that although it says 48 hours for curing, it continues to cure for several days after that and eventually becomes hard as a rock. So now the wait because I'll need to hit the surface with some extra fine sandpaper in order to get the same texture as the original finish.

Prior to painting I degreased with simple green (also made it clean as a whistle), and took 220 grit sand paper and lightly did a criss-cross pattern to assist in adhesion and blending.

If it doesn't come out nice, I'll just strip it down and repaint it. If it works, I'll touch up the front sight post and a couple minor scratches on the receiver.

 

Here's what not to buy. All over RFC, I see guys using calipers, and there's threads describing which ones to buy etc. I said, "Man I've got to get me one of those". So, while in the store I find these and they are a few dollars cheaper. However, unless you like doing fractions in the middle of a project, these aren't the ones to get. The scale is divided 128ths. All 16ths changed to 128ths. The directions are below it so that you can see the math involved. woo hoo! :bthumb:

Instructions provided in other languages in case English wasn't confusing enough:

Call me an idiot for not wanting to use these, but when I see calipers where you just read the little screen, then I've realized it was not the best purchase decision.

 

Here's the sand bag rests that I made out of the jeans. Want to get a funny look? Ask your wife for a needle and thread.

and his buddy:

 

Score! Got another Glenfield Model 60 pawnshop special $80. Bore/crown looks good, but needs lots of TLC. I'm calling this one Bertha. Stock needs a lot of work :bthumb: Perfect candidate for total rebuild including bluing.

Presenting Bertha (Also lets me work on stuff while things are drying etc.):

This one has the bolt hold open...no squirrel stock, but the larger tube magazine. I now have multiple rimfires for less than what 1 of my airguns cost. and something to use all these new supplies on. The ones I'm finding actions are caked with carbon. It's almost as if people sell when they start hiccuping, instead of cleaning them.

 

I've got a 13 year old who thinks she's Annie Oakley, a 12 year old boy and an 11 year old, and I'm gonna be able to fill all their hands !!