First off when my health forced me to downsize my living arrangements one of the victims of that downsizing was not being able to keep all the boxes the firearms came in new.
As I sort of delve into best way to ship both from acquiring suitable sized boxes and shipping rates when you start figuring in oversize or length boxes am I wrong to think the process and finding suitable sized boxes would be much easier if the rifles were taken out of the stock/chassis and well packed and shipped more as a barreled action and stock in a much shorter overall package size?
This is all up to you. Alot of info is on the web. It's just a matter of doing your due diligence. It take some digging but look up the USPS site and see what they say.
Ive been selling off my long guns first since they take up more space. But if you want to use any of the alphabet carries, thats up to you. But i will say you may find that the USPS is cheaper, but i will let you figure this out. If you can or will ship ground, then it may depend on the distance. Since i live on the West Coast and most of the buyers have been on the East Coast, it costs more than if someone was in an adjacent state. Again, look up the prices and zone...ect. The info is there.
FWIW, there is a 18? USD fee/charge for a box over 30 inches. But check and verify this.
Boxes are noting new. If you want there are a couple ways to do this. Its all up to you and how much work/money/sweat you want to put into this.
If you have some valuable rifle how much are you willing to protect it for the next person? Dont forget if you are selling it to someone, will they be happy with some parts of the rifle sticking outside the box upon receipt? So if you want you can buy a new cheap rifle case and hopefully it comes with a box. If you have some sporting goods store you can go there to see how much they cost. Some may have "shotgun" cases where they breakdown too. But you may want to head out and look for any that may suit any future needs. But some places may get their cheap cases in bulk. As in multiple cases in a big box. So you may not get a "box" to ship that gun. But again go out and ask.
If you are buds with a LGS, ask how much they can get a cheap hard cases for. See what they come back with.
You can buy premade shipping boxes too. If you want, check out Uline.com Ive been using these since they are nice and i can cut them down if i need. They do make 2 different sizes, so choose wisely. Hint. its not easy to stretch one but you can cut one down.
If you want, you can make some boxes out of cardboard. Look at UHAUL and some of their wardrobe boxes. if you can figure out a decent shape/size you can get 2 out of a box. Some of the cardboard is single layer and some not.
If you have anyplace that sells cardboard you can make them out of that. Some arts and crafts store may have them or you may find them at a box mfg or cardboard supplier.
My LGS got me some cheap padded rifle cases. I got with and without scope versions. I think they were about 10 bucks per. So, what i do is to ship the rifle in that case as padding in a box. Some of my rifles do have soft cases and i will just use those. The ones with boxes, i will just put the whole thing in a bigger box if possible. But i will add more padding at the butt stock and muzzle end. If there is a bolt, i may remove and wrap. I dont know how many BAs I've received with the bolt head sticking out of the box.
I am going to make some calls and see if I can find out what if need be my local ffl dealer would charge to ship out a weapon in the event the receiving buyers ffl dealer will not accept a package from an individual and only from another ffl.
Also my research is dictating that USPS is the way that an individual needs to go when shipping a firearm to an FFL.
Anyone with experience in this area care to chime in with tips and suggestions and point out pitfalls to watch out for this will be greatly appreciated.
As soon as I get the particulars sorted on the shipping and associated procedure and cost I will start posting up some for sale in the classifieds.
Thanks in advance for any insight given!
There is a place called..."shipmygun.com" or something like that. If you want google and see if they have a shop/place that will do that for you. It wont hurt to get another quote and from what I've read, they were cheaper.
You have to understand the laws regarding shipping firearms. Sometimes its how the other party feels too.
But if you want to ship via USPS, you will need an FFL or have access to an FFL. My LGS allows me to use his FFL. I can buy/ship. My local USPS knows me on sight and knows what im shipping. It's not a big deal to me.
If you use your local LGS, they may have some or alot of boxes for them to use too. My LGS begs me to take and use their boxes so they dont have to dispose of them. Same for any packing material. Again, talk to your LGS about this and see what they say.
USPS/UPS/FEDEX/DHL, it's all the same to me. you will find fan boys of this or that and everyone will have their own SOB story using one or the other. To me, its small violins playing in the background.
USPS Priority Mail. If you compare the rates, you may note that the USPS Prority Mail is about ~ 20 USD more than ground. Or something like that. Same for UPS Ground ...ect or even look at the 2?3 day rates. DO the work/research yourself to verify too. Think about it. Ground vs 2 or 3 day. (not during the holidays tho) So again, think of that expensive gun bouncing for 1 ? week or maybe only 2 or 3 days?.
You can have the buyer pay for shipping/insurance too. It all depends on what and how you want to do it.
Take photos of the toy before you ship it. take as many as you want/can since it's all digital.
You can get a rough estimate on shipping too. But i use Priority Mail. Again, since i live on the W coast, i do an estimate shipping to WDC, AK, HI. Those are the "worse case scenarios" from where i live. You may find that AK/HI are the same price from where you live...up to a point.
Also, this shouldn't have to be stated, but some people just dont get it.
COMMUNICATION is important. No one reads minds, at least i dont. So COMMUNICATE what, where and how. I had people (Florida retirees) wait until the last moment to send the funds. They were just giving me the finger and didnt say anything. All i ask for is some respect just as they would want too. I understand that money isnt always readily available and they may need to scrape up the funds but again, just keep me in the loop.
I had some shop, just toss everything into the OEM box and ship. Things were damaged and the old OEM paper instructions were frail and torn. I wasn't a happy camper. But hey, they got their money and thats all that matters right? Screw the buyer.
If you are going to sell online, take alot of GOOD Photos. Not the blurry ones. If you can and or have a Point-n-shoot camera and a tripod use that. Same with any strobes/fill in lights. PICTURES ARE WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS !!!!!!! If you have any accessories or things that came with the gun and or is part of the gun, make sure you include and photo. If you shot or havent shot the gun, state so. same with WHY you are selling.
If there are any problems/issues state so.
BTW, i had bought a few rifles with bulged bores. one i forgot to add to my notes when i bought and after i sold it the buyer let me know. i felt bad, since i didnt have it in my note, but my LGS noted it. I was willing to buy it back on my dime but the buyer was knowledgeable and knew from experience the position wouldnt affect the accuracy. I let him know the offer to buy back was good even after he shot it. But i guess he was happy.
If you or someone else modded the toy, say so.
figure out what form of payment you will accept. I ask for USPS MO but note, due to their cutbacks on some stations, i understand it may not be convenient to get to one. I ask for USPS MO since it's not so easy to cheat. So if you are willing to accept personal checks or other MO, just say so. If you want, go to your bank and ask them about MO and personal checks. How long it may take for them to clear and their policy. My credit union will "honor" a check and i can pull/cash if i want. but i just deposit and move onto next. I think the policy on personal checks is that by law they are suppose to clear in 5 business days.
Dont be afraid to do the OTJ training/learning. If you forget/miss/screwup on your first add/sell, make corrections on the 2nd and so forth. Everyone will do things different and some wont learn from past mistakes.
If you want, open up a Word document and create a template to use for selling your stuff. you can have headers to use as a guide too.
If you have access to a printer or hopefully your LGS does, print out the address labels. Handwritten can be so varied and let's say, some suck. Its one less issue to deal with.
Also, what i do is to enclose an envelope with the sales and have a lable for the new owner and also a separate envelope with FFL. That way if the box loses the label, they will hopefully find the envelopes and figure out where it's suppose to go. And those labels have phone numbers of the shops too.
good luck