Mark II Model Numbers

Do model numbers that start with a "B" have bull barrels? What diameter are the bull barrels?

Thanks, Jim

 

Sharp Shooter Supply used to make a fully adjustable trigger for pre-accutrigger models... it's nice (still have one).

Rifle Basix makes a replacement sear for pre and accutrigger models.

This gent makes the Apache trigger for accutrigger models...
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4746640&postcount=14

In regards to the barrel... Savage's are known for having very decent stock barrels which is the main allure to their rifles. The trigger used to be a weak point, but the new accutrigger isn't bad. Anyway, I can't really see going through the trouble of changing the barrel unless there was a problem.

They can benefit from bedding, at least my two did.

You can also play with the action screw torque. I suggest pillars if you go much over 15 inch pounds... not the strongest stock inlet start with and made worse with the super wide lugs of the E-receiver models (not sure what the engineers were thinking).

Do model numbers that start with a "B" have bull barrels? What diameter are the bull barrels?

The "V" is the designation for a heavy barrel... for "varmint" I assume.

The "B" is for laminate... which I think stands for "Boyds'" who I believe makes a lot of Savage's stocks.

As for the diameter, it's smaller than my .920 barrels, so I would guess .8ish".

 

I bought a Savage FV-SR last summer for about $200 out the door at buds gun shop. On Savage's website I believe they still have a $25 rebate going on for their MK II. On an average day I can shoot around sub-MOA at 100 yards with CCI Standard Velocity. I can't ask for any better than that. So no complaints besides the plastic stock. It will flex and the cheek weld for me is way too low when using a scope. An aftermarket stock like the Boyd's TactiCool is almost a must. As for triggers, its hard to beat the accutrigger for what you pay.

 

Don't let the rebate influence your decision. Their rebate form ask you to wait 6 to 8 weeks for delivery. At eleven weeks I called to check on mine and was told to wait 3 more weeks and if I haven't received it they would cancel it and start over. That seems to be typical of most rebates.

 

I bought one this past weekend. Mark II wood stock. It shot decent out of the box. I had the feed issue that they are known for. Fixed that today. The I did the trigger shim mod, Trigger has A nice crisp break and much softer trigger now (No Accu trigger)

Plus I just ordered A single shot adapter for it, For Sporter matches at our club.

Will shoot it again tomorrow to see how the Mods worked out.

 

I bought my Boyds stock from their sale of BLEM stocks. They discount the price heavily and the blemish is pretty much not noticeable to anyone except a professional. For example my BTV stock was darker than the standards set by Boyds so they sold it as a BLEM. I actually like the darker color and I paid less than half the going rate for a Boyds stock. When I bought mine they would release some seconds on eBay from time to time. I haven't looked for one in quite a while so I don't know if they still do that or not. I did a quick search of eBay and didn't find any but when I bought mine they only released them once in a while. I waited over a month to see a listing before ordering mind. I've been very happy with it.

You can also play with the action screw torque. I suggest pillars if you go much over 15 inch pounds... not the strongest stock inlet start with and made worse with the super wide lugs of the E-receiver models (not sure what the engineers were thinking).

The "B" is for laminate... which I think stands for "Boyds'" who I believe makes a lot of Savage's stocks.

The bottom of the Boyds stocks made for Savages have wood around the inlet that is just too thin for many purposes. That's why pillar bedding is a very good idea just as you suggested. You can have all metal up from the screw head to the pillars themselves with just enough wood hanging on to keep the stock in place. 15 inch lbs. is definitely the upper limit for torque on the action screws without bedding. That amount of torque left my action screws continually backing off leading to the barrel making contact with the stock which made for erratic shooting. Once I solved that problem (by pillar bedding) I was able to put more torque on the action screws which not only kept them tight but also allowed me to make adjustments to get the maximum accuracy.

The "B" on Savage rifle models doesn't indeed stand for Boyds. And the V stands for varmint which is their heavy barrel designation. Boyds doesn't make the best stocks on earth but they're head and shoulders better than the plastic Savage stocks. The G stock is actually pretty nice but doesn't look as good as the Boyds stocks. It's not made by Boyds obviously. I don't think they make them for the heavy barrel guns though.

 

With both of my Savage bolt guns I had to do lots of things to get them to average out to just over 1.25 MOA. Here's my exhaustive list:

1) Added scope and rings
2) Bought several types of ammo
3) Went to shooting range

The several types of ammo told me it preferred anything subsonic or standard velocity by a good bit. Also taught me that it needed 20-25 rounds of a new ammo through it before shooting groups for measurement.

Thats it. No more.

V is the heavy barrel designation
F is plastic stock
G is basic hardwood
B is boyds rimfire hunter type
BT is boyds thumbhole
T is boyds tacticool (or whatever they renamed it to)
L is left hand

The "Classic" I don't think ever had a letter designation - it was just "Classic" - there are also other Boyds stock models available, like the BRJ (which also has the fancy barrel I think, still heavy but spiral fluted). Note that the typical retail price on this is about what buying a F model and replacing the stock with a Boyds would cost - the change will run you about $150 for new bottom metal, longer screws, and the stock itself. so you may as well buy what you want first time up.

 

My two MKII BV models, one a pre-accutrigger and the other one an early accutrigger model are exceptional shooters with Wolf MT and my most accurate rimfires, but my CZ's are not far behind.

I feel that my CZ's shoot a wider range of ammo well and my Savage's seem to be a little more picky.

In regards to build quality between the two, CZ hands down.

Did you copy my post from another thread? Wait - I only have one MkII but everything you said is exactly what I've experienced. My CZ 453 is a fine shooter but my MkIIBTV is just a tad better. The CZ isn't nearly as picky about a lot of things though and it's by far the better built rifle. But I can get the MkII to shoot better - not by much but better.

One thing, I did shoot a lot of Wolf in my MkII but I think their quality dropped off. I started shooting Eley Match for best results. I still do pretty well with Wolf. I just don't do as well as I once did with it.

And the thing about needing to shoot 25 rounds of a new type of ammo before the MkII settles in is exactly how my MkII acts. I'm glad you posted this stuff because I was beginning to wonder if I was the only one that ever noticed this. I generally figure about 30 rounds with a new brand of ammo to get to where it shoots best. It has to do with getting the right lube in the barrel I suppose. I just know that it works exactly as you described.

 

For those of you with older Mark II heavy barrels what did you do about the trigger? I have one which is a very accurate rifle (better than me) but I would sure appreciate a lighter trigger pull, it's "crisp", but sure not light.
Thanks.

 

I had the same situation and ended up grabbing a trigger from Sharp Shooter Supply when these first came out for the older MKII's. It's a nice complete replacement trigger that's fully adjustable, but unfortunately these are no longer made. I inquired a few years ago about getting another for spare parts and they had some, but I put the idea on the back burner and the last time I asked about ordering one, they no longer had any.

Rifle Basix still offers an aftermarket sear for the older MKII's. Be warned however that it's sensitive to bumps. The instruction even mention to take care when closing the bolt.
http://riflebasix.com/product/savage-mark2-rimfire-trigger-sav-r/

There is also a shim mod lost in the sticky...
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46774

Hawkeye62,

Sorry for the deviation from your topic.

In regards to your possible future Savage trigger, besides the Apache trigger, there is an accutrigger tuning guide... if you dare.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227014

 

Thanks JEE, I guess it's attempt the shim or nothing, as I don't need a "bump rifle". Maybe I'll just pick up a CZ 455 & go from there.

 

I did the Savage shim mod several years ago, and have been pleased ever since. Nice light and crisp trigger for my needs. I also free-floated the barrel by sanding the inside of the forearm. My MK-II GL is the most accurate .22 I've owned. Not bad for a cheap rifle! :bthumb:

 

Jim,

Don't forget DIP Inc. https://www.diproductsinc.com/manufacturersproducts.aspx?MANF=780
They make trigger guards, bottom metal, and scope mounts for the MkII.
A BSEV is the only Savage rifle I own and these products are a godsend. The BSEV really, really needs this trigger guard to give your fingers clearance behind it.
BTW, the BSEV wears a Boyds SS Evolution stock from the factory.
I recently bought an Apachee trigger, but have yet to install it. I've only heard good things about it.
I plan to build a benchrest stock for it this winter to see what it is truly capable of.

Cheers,
Dave

 

Well, I put a Mark II BRJ on lay-away at Bud's. I am going to give it to myself for Christmas. I have too much else going on to take delivery any sooner.

Regards, Jim

 

I was in LGS again today so was checking a BRJ over again, I still say that is my favorite stock. I think you are going to like it.
Good luck with it when you get it.
Glenn

 

Merry Christmas, Hawkeye.:bthumb:

 

I got s MK II G a few years back and it was on, I never really liked the cheek weld with the wood stock so I added a boyds stock, pro staff scope, DIP bottom metal

Initially I was kinda disappointed with the grouping but it does seem to be tightening up a bit

 

I got s MK II G a few years back and it was on, I never really liked the cheek weld with the wood stock so I added a boyds stock, pro staff scope, DIP bottom metal

Initially I was kinda disappointed with the grouping but it does seem to be tightening up a bit

View attachment 7616 View attachment 7617 View attachment 7618

Very nice! Hope you get to shoot soon.

Jim

 

I only put on the new stuff a few weeks back, work and weather have kept me off the range. Hopefully this weekend I'll get to exercise it a bit

 

Dear hawkeye:

The savage makes a really good rifle for the cost, and I would spring for a accutrigger model (not sure if they offer non accutriggers any more). I have a savage mako and a cz ultra lux and my savage is a touch more accurate but I think that could be because of the iron sights on the CZ.

On average, from what I have read here, the cz's have a bit better accuracy potential then the savage, but the cz's are a bit more expensive. Build quality of the CZ is impressive for a rifle at that price point. Savage's show their economy with the quality of build, but they do shoot good.

I have competed with my savage just to see how it does and was able to post some impressive scores.

Regards,
Cranky