I think it's cylinder choke and safe to shoot slugs You would be lucky to get the same point of impact. You will just have to familiarize yourself with the ammo and adjust your point of aim to change point of impact.

That trigger guard isn't original. Did you put it on there? What material and finish is on it?

 

The original trigger guard was cracked. It appeared to be some sort of cheap cast metal. Otherwise the gun was in great shape. I bought a replacement guard (the stamped metal one that's currently on it) and a bunch of spare parts for it from Numrich. I figured it would be a good gun to keep in working order since it's versatile.

A local gunsmith at Oakridge Custom Refinishing installed the trigger guard for me. The guard was black/blued when I got it and they refinished it. It's probably Duracoated; they were a well-known outfit for Duracoating.

 

I'm not completely sure of this, but . . .

the only Savage 24 I am aware of that had the open cylinder choke was the Camper (C model). I think the other fixed choke barreled 24s had full chokes.

If that is the case, I'd do more research. Steel shot on barrels not designed for it can cause issues. Steel shot does not compress like lead and could harm the barrel (and the shooter). The slug issue - ??

I'd error on the cautious side - that looks like a great rifle you have there. Very nice photos! :bthumb:

 

the only Savage 24 I am aware of that had the open cylinder choke was the Camper (C model). I think the other fixed choke barreled 24s had full chokes.

This is my understanding also. I believe some of the synthetic stocked guns at the end of the Model 24s run were choked modified but the older DL models I'm pretty sure are all choked full.

I would NOT put steel shot through a Model 24. If you really need non-toxic shot you could probably get away with using one of the fancy tungsten based loads that are kinder on vintage barrels but the prices will drop your jaw ($3-$4 PER SHELL).

I've shot plain old Foster type slugs and the BRI sabot slugs out of a Model 24 with no ill effect (except to my shoulder). I would avoid the oversize "Slugger" loads from Remington. I have no clue how the fancy new sabot loads intended for rifled barrels would play with the Model 24. The BRI loads (now loaded by Winchester) were originally designed for smooth bores.

Here's a not too encouraging thread from the Savage24 Forum about choke tube installation in a Model 24: http://savage24forum.boards.net/thread/277/barrel-threading-choke-tubes

 

My '81 24V (.222 over 20) was marked IC, but it was a Gart Brothers (Colorado sporting goods company bought by Academy) special.

Foolishly traded it away years ago and wish I had it back now.

If that one's not marked, I'd hope it's a straight cylinder bore, but I'd measure it and see where it falls in this chart, or ask that gunsmith to check it, BEFORE putting a slug thru it.

Bob

 

Choke tubes

I wonder, might it be feasible to have it set up for choke tubes? That would make it even more versatile.

I don't live in Georgia anymore and my gunsmith in Nebraska recently retired. I will be moving to Virginia in a few months though. Maybe I can find a good gunsmith there.

 

I wonder, might it be feasible to have it set up for choke tubes? That would make it even more versatile.

Maybe. The barrel would have to have enough wall thickness to have it equipped with chokes. You'll need a gunsmith that can install these to check, first.

 

Have it measured, you don't need or want a choke for slugs. If it's a cylinder bore (no choke) you're good to go.

Bob

 

I am fairly sure the 24 j's are all full choke. I fired standard forster slugs in both the ones I have had without any problem and fairly good accuracy. Whether the POI matches the rifle barrel is just luck of the draw, sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. 22 wmr/20 I had was ok for windage but hit 3" low at 50. 222 / 20 was spot on at 50. Never tried steel so can't advise you on that