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Ruger 77/22 Hornet pro & con?

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20K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  JayTee2235290  
#1 ·
I'm eager to get another 22 Hornet rifle, and before I make what friends say is an "obvious" choice of getting a CZ 527, I'd like to ask y'all what you think of the Ruger 77/22 Hornet. Ready information about them suggests various "upgrades" including trigger kits, bolt shims, springs and action bedding. I don't mind doing these things if the end result will be durable, easy to shoot, easy to maintain, and consistently shoot 1/2 MOA with handloads, all characteristics others attribute to the CZ. So, what do you think? :)
 
#2 ·
I have both the CZ and the Ruger. Each have their pluses and minuses. This is comparing the rifles out of the box with no aftermarket parts or accessories.
These are my observations. YMMV.

Ruger:
I like the ergonomics of it better than the CZ. Things like the safety operation and height of the scope and your ability to get a good cheek weld.
The trigger will require work to make it acceptable to the discerning rifleman.
The magazine holds one more round than the CZ if that matters to you.
Extra magazines are cheaper than the CZ.
You can seat bullets out farther and still fit in the mag with the Ruger.
The Ruger is cheaper than the CZ.

CZ:
Old world quality. Walnut and blued steel. No alloy or plastic except the buttplate.
Quality of the wood is better than the Ruger.
The safety works in reverse of the Ruger.
I'm not a fan of the set trigger, but the CZ trigger can be adjusted to a decent weight as a single stage without resorting to aftermarket parts.
Extra mags are pricey as with all CZ rifles.
Rings are supposed to come with the rifle, but every one I have bought had no rings with it. The factory rings are square and clunky looking. Millet makes rings that are better looking.
The bolt necessitates the scope be positioned higher than normal for bolt handle clearance.
The CZ is more accurate than the Ruger. (At least in my case)

Both rifles:
If you want uber smooth bolt operation, ie: easy bolt lift and cycling fore and aft, you will have to polish the mating surfaces of both rifles. This is typical of all factory rifles though.

Hope this helps.
 
#5 ·
I went through the same process a couple months ago. I searched all kinds of forums and found very little positive about the Ruger 22 Hornet and most people who owned the Ruger said they wished they'd have bought the CZ.

The CZ pros FAR outweigh the cons. The set trigger will spoil you for life. And you might get one with amazing quality wood.

And the guy who said the Ruger is cheaper than the CZ is wrong. CZ is $50 cheaper than the Ruger at dealer cost.

Here is mine and I was lucky to get a gorgeous stock and it shoots like a laser too!
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#6 ·
Ruger 22 Hornet

I have an all weather Ruger 22 Hornet that printed groups like a shotgun. I ended up sending it to Randy at CPC for the works (bolt tightening, trigger job, rechamber to K-hornet). It now groups a little under moa. That was several years ago.

I recently purchased a Ruger 17 Hornet and a CZ in 17 Hornet. Both have outstanding accuracy out of the box. The CZ set trigger is awesome. They only thing I had to do to the Ruger is a target sear.

The newer Ruger 22 Hornets may be much better out of the box than mine was.
 
#7 ·
I've owned both CZ 527 & Ruger's M-77/.22 Hornet rifles. Still have the Ruger which I liked better; only thing to do to make Ruger's Hornet rifle more accurate is to upgrade the trigger and make it lighter and crisper. My Ruger M-77/.22 Hornet will now shoot <.750" @ 100 yards on average with my handloads. CZ's Hornet is a fine rifle too but I didn't care for the magazine sticking out near the trigger guard.
 
#8 ·
It will be the CZ 527

First, let me thank you all for sharing your experiences, insights and opinions. You are what makes RFC a great place to hang out :)

Ruger 77/22 Hornet or CZ 527?

I'd love to get an American made 22 Hornet, but after weighing it all, I'm pretty sure I'm going to get my Calhoon single shot adapter back from friend Flynmoose and order a CZ 527 American. I'm familiar with those Euro sexy LUX models, but the hogback stock contour makes it less compatible with my benchrest setup. The negative comments about the 527 magazines are nearly unanimous. I don't worry about it because I prefer using the single shot adapter. If you're not familiar with the Calhoon adapter, you'll find other threads in this forum that describe them. They are extremely well designed and well made (in Montana!!!), and they virtually eliminate the visual blight of the 527 magazine :)
 
#12 ·
I considered the M77/22 Hornet as well as a CZ 527 in .22 Hornet, and I opted for door number 3.

I'ver always liked the Interarms Mk X and it's little brother the Mini Mauser. Interarms sold them with a few different stock styles as well as in barrelled action format in case you wanted to build one yourself, but the side effect of that is that there are still a number of different stock options for them.

The same rifles were also sold by Charles Daly with a composite stock, and they were sold for a couple years by Remington as the Remington 798 (the big one) and the Remington 799 (the little one).

They are still being imported today by CAI under their actual name and model numbers - the Zastava Model 70 and the Zastava Model 85. The bluing and metal work is as excellent as always, although CAI's specifications for the stock is a little low - the finish has all the charm of shoe polish and the checkering is only partially cut.

The good news here is two fold:

1. There is a wide range of aftermarket stocks for the Model 85, and until recently there were still new original replacement stocks available for them from both Remington inventory that was purchased by Stocky's and Interarms inventory that was purchased by Numerich Arms.

2. The stock that comes on them isn't that bad. The original finish makes a great stain under a new finish and with a half dozen coats of Tru-oil over it, it looks very good.

The really good news is that they are superb shooting rifles. I have a Remington 799 as well as a Zastava Model 85 in .22 Hornet (as well as one in .223 Remington), although both of my Zastava rifles now live in Interarms stocks.

Both the .22 Hornets will shoot consistent 1/2 MOA 5 shot groups at 100 yards with 45 gr V-Max bullets.

(The .223 is the newest edition and it's lagging a bit but I haven't put any work into load development yet.)

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The next time I was tempted by a 77/22 Hornet, I got a great deal on a Browning 1885 Low Wall in .22 Hornet. It's also a sub MOA rifle, but it's not a real fan of the comparatively long 45 gr V-max, even though it has the same nominal 1-16" twist as my other .22 Hornets, and it does much better with shorter bullets like the 35 gr V-Max and the Barnes 30 gr Varmint Grenade.

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#14 ·
If anyone is having trouble with the accuracy that the Ruger 77/22 Hornet provides, there’s a few things you should know that a lot of people have conflicting advice On how to get this particular rifle to shoot with outstanding accuracy. I hear a lot of guys say I did this to the stock, I did that to the stock, my gun likes this ammo, & all of these things do help and are going to potentially better your accuracy in the end. But there is one thing first that most people do not understand with these rifles is the most important step you have to do before doing minor upgrades that slightly help the accuracy. Your torque specs on both takedown screws are the most important aspect you must have exact and every rifle varies exact specs from the front to the back take down screw. Ruger’s Suggested torque specs with a sporter barrel is 60 to 65 inch pounds. But if you have the stainless medium bull barrel, it’s actually 80 pounds. Now they really don’t give you a torque spec for the back takedown screw, so Think of it like this those two takedown screws have a hidden combination in inch pounds that unlock the accuracy to every rifle. So basically start by tightening the front screw which is the most important one to 80 Inch pounds, doesn’t matter which you tighten first or last like some people argue. Then go ahead and tighten the back one around the same doesn’t specifically have to be 80 inch pounds. Now fire your rifle In three shot groups and all we’re judging is how tight those groups are. Make sure you have an extremely good rest where you are not moving around, the best way is to lay on the ground with a bipod and try to get it to where your rifle is basically laying crosshairs perfectly over the bull’s-eye & all you have to do is squeeze the trigger. If they’re all over the place or even at an inch Or inch n a half groups this can easily be tightened up where the bullets are shooting one hole in the target. Some guys are happy with an inch grouping at 100 yards. But do you want to be one of those guys who says my 22 hornet shoots OK or my 22 hornet shoots amazing. So from here we either tighten one screw at a time and we do it in Very tiny increments. So maybe 2 or 3 Centimeters at a time. Start by tightening the front take down screw a couple of centimeters, next loosen the back take down screw a couple of centimeters and fire another three shot group. If your groups have opened up then u know your going the wrong direction. But if your groups are slowly tightening up then keep tightening the front take down screw 2 cm at a time and loosening the back takedown screw 2 cm at a time or in some instances you can also just tighten the front take down screw 2 cm at a time or loosen it and don’t mess with the back one. But if your groups have opened up then start loosening the front take down screw and tightening the back take down screw 2 cm at a time and keep doing this until your bullets shoot the same hole or are at least touching. If you’re happy with that then keep it that way but if you want to experiment a little more then keep tightening or loosening one or the other just to see what results you’ll get. Now having a free-floating barrel and glass betting job does help and really you only have to bed the front take down screw not the back. Here’s where a lot of guys make mistakes too with bedding these rifles is that you do not want to completely free float this barrel but you do want to cut a big enough channel into your stock that nothing touches only on the sides but the bottom you will want your barrel to rest on at least 50% because that is the way these rifles were meant to lay inside every stock. And this information comes from Ruger‘s rifle manufacturing department and they are absolutely correct. I follow that direction specifically because I was going to do a trial and error to see if that actually worked and you have to start off with leaving some of the bottom of the channel inside the stock. Because you can always grind more off but you can’t add wood you can add glass but that is a lot of extra work. Obviously changing out the Ruger trigger will also help your accuracy tremendously, Timney makes an awesome adjustable trigger which I have on all three of my 77 series rugers and I said each one of mine at 1 pound which to a lot of people is too light but for all of my competition guns & long range hunting rifles are set at 1 pound therefore I am used to this weight. Shimming the bolt is also a tremendous help for these rifles to shoot accurately and is such a cheap modification that it should definitely be on your to do list if you want the best accuracy out of your rifle. Now I know this seems like a lot of work to own one of these rifles but if you are like me you’re always doing a different project on one of your rifles or the other & not to mention I enjoy working on my riflesAs I imagine most people who love shooting also do.Results you will see from doing these modifications to your rifle will be unlike any other rifle sold on the market. There is not another 22 hornet on the market that can shoot better than my own personal Ruger 77/22 hornet. There can be other rifles that possibly shoot as good but my rifle at 110 yards shoots five shot group in literally the same hole, to where it is hard to tell if i even shot two bullets in that hole. I have three different ruger 77 series rifles, a 77/17 WSM, a 77/17 hornet, & a 77/22 hornet all in stainless steel medium bull barrels. Therefore I was a little more invested than the average person in this line of ruger rifles. I spent months trying new things and trying to figure out what would make these rifles shoot from about an inch grouping to ragged hole. It took me a while but I did figure it out, so all of this information comes from Hours on top of hours in the field, on my own personal rifle range. All of us Ruger shooters know how expensive these rifles are, add around $1000 apiece on top of the new thumbhole stocks that I glass in embedded and bored out the rifle channel, then add three decent scopes plus triggers and we’re talking probably close to five grand or more invested into these rifles. Most guys would’ve sold all three of these guns at one point or the other, but me I wasn’t going to stop until I figured out how to get these rifles to shoot the way they do. And now I’ve done all the work for you, all ya gotta do is take these directions and if you apply them correctly I promise you will get the same exact results. I am so sure of this because I did not just succeed on getting one of my rifles to shoot this way but all three. As we all know, we who shoot Ruger’( The 22 hornet was probably the worst accuracy and trigger out-of-the-box rifle) I have ever bought. But me being a Ruger fan loving this exact rifle I was not satisfied with that. But now I can say this rifle is as enjoyable to shoot then any of the dozens I have in my collection. Honestly it is one of my favorite rifles now & Believe me it did not start off that way. My Ruger 22 hornet after changing the trigger, its accuracy went off the charts horrible. To an upsetting 6 inch group, but what most people don’t understand about these rifles is that when you take the stock off to modify something those take down screws have to be torqued at an exact spec and whatever Ruger suggest those takedown screws be torqued at is a good place to start, all you have to do is fine tune it after that. On top of that if you remove your gun from the stock to replace the Trigger and then send it back to Ruger because the accuracy went to %%%% because you didn’t know how tight those torque screws we’re supposed to be then they will take your trigger off put a factory one back on it torque the screws at the exact spec and send the rifle back to you and you will be back to square one, so just avoid all of the BS you will deal with in the future. And if you glass bed that stock or bore the channel for the barrel out and send that into Ruger they won’t even work on it and your warranty was voided because you altered the stock. So save yourself the hassle read my directions carefully and get your rifle shooting as it should be. Obviously certain bullets shoot better out of certain barrels, we might have the same exact rifle but you’re 22 hornet likes hornady varmint express 35 grain, while mine likes the 45 grain SoftPoints. So that too is important in finding out which bullet your rifle prefers. But let me tell you I went to five different brands of ammo, 35 grain Hornaday, 45 grain Hornaday Softpoints, Winchester Jacketed hollow points, Remington 45 grain soft points, and PPU 45 green soft points and me always thinking that the torque specs were supposed to be at 60 to 65 Inch pounds tried all of these rounds in literally one did not shoot better than the other, they all grouped horrible from 6 inch groups being the worst to 3 inch groups being the best. But after my extensive research and time in the field I torqued The takedown screws at the right poundage (80 inch pounds) and did everything I explain to you in this post and every single one of those bullets either shot in the same ragged hole At best & at worst every bullet hole was at least touching each other. But to my surprise after having the gun set up the way it should be it just about shot every bullet the same. And I know you always hear people saying I’ve done a lot of research on this & that, but over the last three years I’ve owned these rifles I have really done a lot of research on these rifle, my homework has been done I’m on extra credit. I can tell u more about these rifles from personal experience than any ruger salesman who’s job is knowing these rifles. Been hunting hunting food for my family since the age of 9 until this very day. Never missed a year, so I’m not your average enthusiast or weekend warrior. I don’t send rifles off to my local gunsmith, if something needs fixed, changed out or upgraded, rebarrled I do it myself. The deer heads & hog mounts on my walls speak for themselves as I literally have piles of euro deer skulls in every corner of my house because I’ve been out of wall space for the past 10 years. When uve has half as many kills as I got u have to be somewhat of a decent shot, but I’m above that. Some say the best, I say definitely above average. I hope this helps, always practice safe shooting and good luck!!!