I did it to the first one I overhauled and when I bought my magnum research rifle they had one drilled already. I'm one of those guys who always used a rod and it is very handy to have! :t

 

If the barrel is not threaded/receiver I don't see a need for it myself (opinions vary)

It's easier for me to take barrel off than it would be to take trigger group, bolt buffer, bolt and charging handle assembly apart to use the rear hole for cleaning the barrel.

Clint

 

i thought the same thing, untill reading a gunsmithing book on the 10/22 that says not to repeatedly remove the barrel. says it can lead to some looseness in the lockup and degrade accuracy over time.

 

What is the best way to find out where you should drill the hole?
Thanks Jim

 

i ran a one peice stainless steel cleaning rod through the bore and marked where it hit the back of the reciever. looking through the hole that the bolt stop pin goes in you can see where the center of the rod is and can mark that level with a pencil, i then measured how wide the reciever was and made a mark at the very center on the back of the reciever. was real easy and came out perfect. i used a 1/4" drill bit. i can look through the new hole in the reciver and see straight down the bore.

 

I did the same with mine. Started with a small pilot drill and checkit it by looking at a light through the barrel to see how well centered it was. You can use a round file to move the pilot hole a little if you're off. Then drill the full hole with the 1/4" bit.

 

I'm going to get a hole drilled in my receiver when CPC does the work for me...hopefully...SOON!

 

The center of the hole should be .810" up from the bottom of the receiver. In fractions this is very close to 13/16". The receiver is 1.25" wide so the vertical center line is .625" which is 5/8". Mark the hole deeply with a center punch to get a good starting point for the drill bit. Using a new 1/4" bit (and some cutting oil) is a good idea too, they cost < $1 and will help insure a well placed hole. I also give it a slight chamfer with a countersink which helps guide the brush/patch.

 

yes, a new bit and cutting oil is a must. seen lots of guy screw up a rifle's finish by trying to drill with an old bit and seen a few taps broken because no cutting oil was used.

 

been there done that on many parts, mostly hardend steel, chrome plated parts and some alumimiounm parts(-1 for spelling) rapid tap oil is the best imho
cdevon1200

 

Reciever hole for cleaning

I was reading this post and I am wondering what this will do to the Ruger Factory Warranty? Is it voided since a mod was done to the reciever. Anyone with any knowledge of this?

Steve-in-Atco

 

I was reading this post and I am wondering what this will do to the Ruger Factory Warranty? Is it voided since a mod was done to the reciever. Anyone with any knowledge of this?

Steve-in-Atco

Rugers do not come with a warranty.

 

i would think that it would void the warrenty. which is no big deal to me since i made sure the rifle was functioning well before i made any mods. if i have any problems, i can probably fix them myself.

 

I'll probably get flamed for this but why not just take the barrel off instead of drilling a hole in the back of the receiver?

 

Hole

It also enables you to bore site your rifle , if you take the barrel off you will need to rezero each time , the receiver probably needs more cleaning than the barrel depending on which ammo you use . Dave

 

Ok...I get it now.

 

drilled the hole in mine just a while ago and cant BELIEVE the difference it makes in cleaning my rifle should have done it a LONG time ago.

I simply cant imagine taking my barrel out of my reciever every time i want to clean my rifle <boggle> that would mean a return trip to the range to re zero it or at least make sure it returned to zero or close to it ... no thanks , this way i can be a LOT more certain that when i get to the range or am out plinking that i wont have to worry about missing a shot cause my zero shifted when i pulled the the barrel

anyway just my 2 cents

 

Insted of removing the barrel and drilling the hole what could happen of you put the cleaning rod in from the muzzle and then put the patch on the rod once it in the receiver, and then pull it through instead of pushing it?

 

Hee hee hee how many of us here have enough "original" ruger equipment left in their 10/22's to have to worry about a warranty? i think about the only thing left original in most of these rifles might be the reciever and thats about it :Blasting_

 

While we're on the subject, I highly recommend the use of a plastic coated or carbon fiber cleaning rod. It makes me cringe when I go to a gun shop and see a rack of steel cleaning rods. Why would anyone do that to their rifle?

 

I have drilled my recievers for as long as I can remember. The reason for this is that I glue my bbls into the reciever and have no problems with stressing the bbl/reciever fit. If I ever need to replace the bbl, just apply heat with a heat gun and the bbl slides out of the reciever with no damage. Wouldn't even consider using that wedge to secure the bbl. It would seem to me that if one WANTED to insure stressing the bbl/action area this would be the ideal way to do it. Regards...g