I have a Marlin 70HC that is not my primary rifle by any means. It is clip magazine fed so will be the back-up rifle for my first Appleseed. I am using a Marlin 795 for my primary rifle at Appleseed. Point is, I need to put sling swivels on the 70HC. Is there a Spit and Bailing-Wire technique for drilling the stock when I don't really have the equipment except an electric drill. I am hesitant to pay a gunsmith $30 to do the drilling but I know the holes need to be true to a great extent. What do you all do out there in RFC Land? Incidentally, the stock in question is a simple inexpensive hardwood, not walnut or other fine wood. Therefore I am willing to be more risk-taking with it.
-
Whether you're a greenhorn or a seasoned veteran, your collection's next piece is at Bass Pro Shops. Shop Now.
Ithacabuff
Just buy some Uncle Mikes swivels and they have instructions in the package. Tells you what size drill bits and such. So easy even I have done a few.
I've done a few sets myself with an electric drill...and I won't do it again without a drill press. It's very easy to be slightly off center or have the hole go in at an angle. I suppose for just a sling that may not matter a lot but in my case I've always had other purposes for the studs like a bipod or benchrest adaptor. For those two uses, the hole has to be perfect or you will see it when you look through the scope. Personally I'd rather spend a few bucks and get it done right...
For my last studs I bought threaded stock inserts from Brownells and had them professionally installed. They give a nice finished look and make for a solid yet easily removable base for studs, bipods etc..
Threaded insert-
![Image]()
For my last studs I bought threaded stock inserts from Brownells and had them professionally installed. They give a nice finished look and make for a solid yet easily removable base for studs, bipods etc..
Threaded insert-
It is actually very easy. You need a center punch a drill and the recommened bits on the Uncle Mike's directions.
Just make sure the forearm is parallel with your bench before drilling the front hole. When you do the stud on the butt place the rifle upside down in a rest with the muzzle elevated to the point where the bottom of the line of the butt, where you will be drilling, is parallel with the bench top. This makes it much easier to get the hole perpendicular to the stock. Use the center punch to mark the spot where you are going to drill, very important. I use a bit larger than the hole to chamfer the edge of the hole and put some soap on the stud before screwing it in.
Just make sure the forearm is parallel with your bench before drilling the front hole. When you do the stud on the butt place the rifle upside down in a rest with the muzzle elevated to the point where the bottom of the line of the butt, where you will be drilling, is parallel with the bench top. This makes it much easier to get the hole perpendicular to the stock. Use the center punch to mark the spot where you are going to drill, very important. I use a bit larger than the hole to chamfer the edge of the hole and put some soap on the stud before screwing it in.
I've done quite a few with simple gimlets . . .
. . . its easy when you use a pilot hole with thin veneer nail, then thin drill, then gimlet. I've had a few come off slightly off center, but not very noticeable. But if you are really scared or want to be absolutely certain of plumb installation, pay the professional or competent workman.
. . . its easy when you use a pilot hole with thin veneer nail, then thin drill, then gimlet. I've had a few come off slightly off center, but not very noticeable. But if you are really scared or want to be absolutely certain of plumb installation, pay the professional or competent workman.
Do it right and only do it once without screwing anything up.
You can buy a jig for the butt for reasonable money and it goes a long way toward ensuring it is centered.
For the fore end I am a big believer in using drill press to ensure it is properly centered and aligned.
If you plan to use a stud to attach a bipod, it really helps if the rifle is actually level with the legs retracted or extended to the maximum length and that won't happen with an off center swivel.
That said, you need to take it all with a grain of salt as my standards might be a little higher than average.
For example, I get really annoyed at helpful gunsmiths who want to mount the scope I just bought on the rifle I just bought with the rings I just bought. I am down with ensuring everything works (adequate but not excessive bolt to bell clearance, etc) but they can stop there as I am a whole lot more anal about everything after that.
You can buy a jig for the butt for reasonable money and it goes a long way toward ensuring it is centered.
For the fore end I am a big believer in using drill press to ensure it is properly centered and aligned.
If you plan to use a stud to attach a bipod, it really helps if the rifle is actually level with the legs retracted or extended to the maximum length and that won't happen with an off center swivel.
That said, you need to take it all with a grain of salt as my standards might be a little higher than average.
For example, I get really annoyed at helpful gunsmiths who want to mount the scope I just bought on the rifle I just bought with the rings I just bought. I am down with ensuring everything works (adequate but not excessive bolt to bell clearance, etc) but they can stop there as I am a whole lot more anal about everything after that.
Just put Uncle Mike's swivels onto my boy's 10/22 with a hand drill. He has a composite stock. Used a sharp bit, came out fine. I didn't use a drill press or any other fancy equipment -- just a cordless drill and my eyeballs. I put loc-tite on the studs, not soap. Guess my standards are pretty low 
.
.
My decision is
based on these facts 1. It is inexpensive hardwood with a mediocre refinish job I did. 2. Some of you suggest I can do it myself 3. I am not a bipod man 4. I just want a sling for Appleseed back-up...So, I am going to try the spit and bailing-wire approach and see what happens. I saw a lot of wonderful suggestions and appreciate them all. Thanks and always open to more ideas on this.
based on these facts 1. It is inexpensive hardwood with a mediocre refinish job I did. 2. Some of you suggest I can do it myself 3. I am not a bipod man 4. I just want a sling for Appleseed back-up...So, I am going to try the spit and bailing-wire approach and see what happens. I saw a lot of wonderful suggestions and appreciate them all. Thanks and always open to more ideas on this.
Years ago I bought a swivel drill jig from B-square- easy to use- came with drills and counter sinks- not really necessary but nice- just check out some factory drill jobs for the proper spacing at the toe and fore end.
In that case, go slow, use a pilot bit first then enlarge the hole to the required size.
And, just like cutting a stock, wrap the area to be drilled in a couple layers of smoothly and firmly applied masking tape. It wil go along way toward preventing any splitting of the wood on the edge of the hole.
And, just like cutting a stock, wrap the area to be drilled in a couple layers of smoothly and firmly applied masking tape. It wil go along way toward preventing any splitting of the wood on the edge of the hole.
Somebar soaps can draw water from the air. I prefer a soft wax, like beeswax, on woodscrews. Some candles are the right consistency too.
Either one does make the screw go in alot easier.
With any skill, a hand drill is all you need. Use a brad-point bit to avoid splitting/chipping the finish/wood when you start the hole.
Either one does make the screw go in alot easier.
With any skill, a hand drill is all you need. Use a brad-point bit to avoid splitting/chipping the finish/wood when you start the hole.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
