Did you remove the spring that other's have been replacing with a ball point pen spring? Mine went down to 1.5 lbs. according to my trigger pull gauge. I tested my safety and it functions still. I banged, bumped, slapped, my rifle to simulate the majority of possibilities my rifle might deal with short of beating it with a hammer. The trigger did not fail.

I would not leave my rifle in this condition loaded and walking through the woods though. On a bench I feel relatively safe with it being that light. My hunting requirements is on a bench shooting sage rats.

 

Have a standard RAR with a ballpoint pen spring in that has a 2lb pull, and a Target version with the spring removed 1 1/2lb. Only other changes have been basic cleaning and lube.
Put in dummy round and slammed both bolt closed repeatedly, and dropped 1 foot on shoulder pad testing. No hammer drops. KM

 

1st thing I did to my target model was remove the spring. Everything functions perfectly and safely. Great trigger.

 

I didn't remove the spring completely but I did cut about 2 coils from it and the trigger pull in now just under 2-1/2 pounds and is drop and slam-the-bolt safe. I did exactly the same thing with my Ruger American Centerfire in .223 Rem and the results were identical.

Apparently you can get an even lighter pull by removing the "safety tab" in the trigger blade but the guns drop and bolt slam safety are highly compromised and I wouldn't do it.

As a precaution I ordered a few replacement factory springs to be able to restore the guns to stock condition if I ever sell them.

 

Here you go mate.

Some people have done what youve done. I wouldnt count on it being 100% safe, but thats just me.

 

Replace it with a lighter one for safety and positive function. Ruger has a pretty stiff one to begin with and there's not much else you can do.

 

Wow, gotta love the 'net ! I purchased just a week ago a mint used RA 22LR and have thus far been "tolerating" the stiff 5.5# stock configured trigger. My trigger spring is immediately being removed today ! Thanks !

 

Like others have said, I replaced mine with a lighter spring, I didn't remove it. My RAR triggers are better than my RPRR and Savage MkII, for sure.


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I used a pen spring in mine and did not touch the blade safety at all, perfect.

 

What else does this spring do?

I have heard/ read/ seen that with out this spring some people have experienced a loss of trigger reset. That the trigger does not move forward When the bolt is run, and so they cant pull the trigger. I have the same trigger on my RPR, and a similar version of my Ruger American Ranch in 7.62 x .39. I for one am not one to remove and not replace a spring, or to replace it with a pen spring of unknown tensile strength.

But I'd like a lighter trigger too. Someone ,will come out with a replacement spring,and Wolf or Brownells or DIP or EGW will sell it.Until then we'll im stuck.

 

I have heard/ read/ seen that with out this spring some people have experienced a loss of trigger reset. That the trigger does not move forward When the bolt is run, and so they cant pull the trigger. I have the same trigger on my RPR, and a similar version of my Ruger American Ranch in 7.62 x .39. I for one am not one to remove and not replace a spring, or to replace it with a pen spring of unknown tensile strength.

But I'd like a lighter trigger too. Someone ,will come out with a replacement spring,and Wolf or Brownells or DIP or EGW will sell it.Until then we'll im stuck.

M*CARBO makes one for the Ruger American; I haven't tried it yet but looks interesting:

https://www.mcarbo.com/ruger-american-rifle-trigger-spring-kit.aspx

 

Removed my spring and wow what a substantial reduction in pull force. With the spring removed my RA Target 22LR reads about 1 lb, 9 oz pull compared to the 5.5# pull oem setup. I like my precision bolt target rifle triggers right between 1.5 and 2 lbs so i'm good. My AR-15's I prefer about 3.5 - 4.5# .

 

Before I ever fired mine. I removed the trigger group. Stoned and polished it and removed approx 2 1/2 coils. The trigger brakes right at a crisp pound. Shoots .3" groups at a 100 yards with hornady vmax 2200 fps varmint ammo. The key is to polish the mating surfaces in the trigger group. I've done 5 RA's now, one rimfire, 77/44, and a savage. It takes about 15 minutes. My RA 450 bushmaster brakes at 18 oz. I removed a few coils out of the safety blade as well. It works without the blade installed but I like the look and feel of it so I left it in.

 

That worked very well, thank you all. I did some 600 grit sand paper on the top of the trigger, it looked like only about 30% was actually wearing / mating the surface. some figure 8's on a plate of glass and it's very light, can't wait for the range!

 

This is an ancient thread but the RAR is still a good selling 22lr and I want to agree with many here ... removing the trigger return spring completely gives you a safe "for the bench" 1.5 lb trigger that functions properly and safely in all ways.

 

I completely disagree! Removing the trigger return spring or replacing it with another spring that is too weak to do its job is a bad and dangerous idea! Even if you're "just using it at the bench". Why? It isn't a match-grade rifle so why try to create a match-grade trigger for it? Enjoy the rifle for what it is. If you must have a match-grade trigger, purchase one that is DESIGNED to work safely at those light trigger pull weights.
The trigger blade safety is protecting you from all of your "bump" tests and you're fooling yourself into thinking it is perfectly safe, reliable, and functional.
There, I said my piece. Now we let Darwin do his job.

 

I hear you. I have a couple CZ 22lr's that are exceptionally accurate and the triggers nicely tune to 1.5 lbs. They are so predictably accurate at 50 - 70 yards they are almost boring. I do like to take what I call "Farm Guns" and make them respectable via minor mods, polishing, and ammo selection. My Savage Mark II BV is such a gun - great fun gun now that I've got it right. I bought my RAR standard 22lr to have fun getting it up to speed. You seem to be some sort of a smart A with your snide Darwin remark. (my apologies if it is just your style of humor) Most of us know the difference between match grade rifles and farm pesters. And I suspect many of us have battle experience where we held guns together with duct tape and fixed safeties and attached slings with bent wires. All Best, Eclem

 

Re: Darwinism
When people tell you, "don't do it, it isn't a good idea.", yet you go ahead and do it anyway. Call it what you want. I'll call it Darwinism.

Yes, I am as big a smart-A as you'll ever meet, but not when it comes to saving lives and protecting people. Take this thread, for example. There are 18 posts saying, "This is a really good idea. It is safe. What could go wrong?" And then there is me saying, "Think about it, guys." Clearly, I am outnumbered.

If I can save your life, your child's life, or your best friend's, I am ok being outnumbered. No matter how bad we might feel about it, after the fact, we will never be able to take that bullet back.

It is a beautiful Sunday morning. Have a great day.

 

Greetings, I agree with you 100%, The people who designed the firearms probably knew what they were doing! I'll stick to trigger group lubrication, and adjustment, for safety's sake. It's amazing what a little dab of moly grease, and some oil will do to make a trigger better. Regards

 

I get where you're coming from JJ - thanks for the thoughts. Keep the faith with your maker and our constitution! Never in my lifetime has our country been in such peril and you sound like a protector. Keep it up.

 

DId the pen spring today. Huge improvement, maybe too light though. I may try cranking the adjustment screw in. I'll see when I get it out in the next few weeks.

 

On my ruger american rimfires, I took the trigger apart, sanded inside the trigger box with a block and emery cloth, then moved up to 2000 grit, I did the same to the trigger. After I measure the gap and shimmed the trigger to .002 clearance, I backed off the trigger spring to the max, removed the safety blade too. I didn't notice how the top of the trigger mated with the bolt. I did this to a 22lr and 22mag, tigger is better than the timney calvin on my 10/22. I did a similar thing to the trigger on precision rimfire 17hmr too. You can buy the parts the shim the trigger pretty cheap, infact I shim the triggers on most of the 22's. Some the best results are on marlin 60's.