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Pics, 2nd Hold Down And Pillar Bedding

20K views 74 replies 36 participants last post by  jGEE  
#1 ·
Here is a project i'm putting together. I hate to say it but i am really having fun with my mill and lathe! The walnut stock is a second from Numeric for $35 they missed the inleting a bit where the trigger housing catches the stock. No problem i wanted to add a second bedding lug anyway.

I pillar bedded the front mounting point and added a second pillar bedded rear mounting point. I used Loctite 5 min epoxy- had to keep moving before it set up!!!

That's a Green Mountain Running Bore bbl i have had for several years - never shot it much but it was pretty accurate outta the box. I'm going back and revist it with some , i hope, improvements. I have built a "home made" tuner i'm gonna test with and without just to have something to experiment with.

That's a $65 8x32x40mm True Glow scope, can't complain for the price. The cross hairs are about the size of fence post, lol. I have a couple of 8x32 BSA's that are a lot better -actually the BSA for a cheap scope i don't think you can beat it.

I'll have to split the pictures in 2 post. any question just ask, be glad to help if i can! joe

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#10 ·
Thanks!

Thanks, Joe. The pics really make it - nice to see your ideas taking shape. I was a little worried about the rear bolt idea, when I saw you drilling through the stock, but turned out cool
Thanks for the comments! If i have learned anything it would be the try your own ideas. I have 4 Ruger 10/22's not a lot but enough if i mess something up i got back ups, lol. With used and aftermarket parts plenty reasonable - a mistake can be easily repaired.

Now the hard part for me is "use your own ideas" sometimes i wait for days waiting on them "ideas" to come in, lol!!

I don't think it came out too bad.. i will get some targets the next couple of days, that will be the test! thanks again, joe:)

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#9 ·
That turned out very nicely. Beautiful work.

I do wonder if there is a big gain over just a very good glass bedding job. Only time will tell. Does not diminish what you have done here. Very nice.
 
#12 ·
Mr. Vincent if i had to vote i don't think there is any advantage with a rear lug over a nice bedding job.

The back of the trigger housing "notches into the stock" for a rear lug. My view if that "notch" is a bit loose where it engages the wood, it just wouldn't be tight enough for me. I think it is more of a mental thing with me - i like the thought of 2 "mechanical" hold down points. I want to be able to "cinch 'er" down.

I have one 10/22 with the front and rear of the receiver glass bedded and it shoots nice! I don't take it apart much so i'm not too woried about the trigger housing loosing,

Now we are splitting hairs here but with the trigger housing using 2 pins, it's awful easy for the receiver to move somewhat in the stock with just front and rear glass bedding.

Old Man River in my opinion has the best way ever to make the stock and receiver "as one" with his 2 trigger pins all the way thru the stock. I don't see anything ever being better than his system. I just wish i had thought of it, lol
joe :)
 
#13 ·
Beautifully executed and a darned nice tutorial! :bthumb:

Just curious, do you have experience with a lathe and mill or is this something you just picked up?
 
#16 ·
Beautifully executed and a darned nice tutorial! :bthumb:

Just curious, do you have experience with a lathe and mill or is this something you just picked up?
Thanks Mr Markbo! No experience with a mill at all "o", just pickin that up, i didn't even know what tooling i needed about a month ago, lol.

I have had an old wore out 9" south bend for several years, never used it much really didn't know how - it was good for cutting bolts down. I set back a couple 10/22 bbls with it - the spindle bore is just 3/4".. if i took the front site off i could get the bbl thru the head stock. I never threaded bbls till about a year ago when i got my 12x36 china lathe. Mainly what i know about a lathe i have learned in the last year.

I was an auto mechanic most my life -had my own "poorboy" 1 man shop for about 25 years, never had the opportunity to be around mills and lathes. i taught myself to weld and fabricate - built a few hot rods, mostly hand tools and air tools. I get out in my "skunk wurks" and go to town. I am having to learn patience.. you just can't "hog off" a couple thousands - you gonna get .020 when you were looking for .002. beleive me i know, lol joe:)
 
#14 ·
Joe,
Let me get in line to congratulate you on your ingenious ideas, inspired use of common materials and SUPER nice execution. Your rear "pillar" is really impressive, and "saving" a $35 stock is awesome, too! I would also like to thank you for taking the time to document your process/progress. That is invaluable to guys who haven't tackled this sort of thing. However, your mill and lathe are making us all jealous, so could you maybe blur them out in your pictures?:D

Take care and have fun!

chuckbiscuits
 
#17 ·
Mr. 'Biscuits that's very nice of you to say. I figure maybe someone will get a few ideas if they see what i'm trying to do. I said the other day this site can be no better than what us members make it. I have gotten a lot of info from RFC members and just trying to do my part.

Don't be too jealous -lol, it took me 60 years to get a nice lathe and 61 years to get a used mill. I have a lot of catching up to do and am having fun! joe :)
 
#18 ·
Two things:

1. This does have a real advantage over bedding if you want to full float the barrel. That is a thing each has to decide for themselves I guess. I really like the rear take down either way.

2. I would disagree that the cross pin method is better than yours Joe. I think they both do the same thing and yours is prettier :D :bthumb: Your looks like it belongs on the rifle and the cross pin thing always looks like an add on to me. Both should work the same. Yours may even be better in that it draws the action back against the recoil stop now becoming the rear wall. That is big I think. I would never do the cross pin conversion to my DSPs......I would definately do this conversion if I could.
 
#19 ·
Well i had not quite thought it out as far as you have Mr. Vincent. I just wanted to hold the receiver nice and tight, and i do free float my bbls. I wasn't thinking about a recoil lug but with the receiver tight against the rear pillar it makes a nice recoil stop.

Not to offend mr river but i'm with you, i just have not been able to bring myself to drill 2 holes thru my stocks "sideways". I even bought the binder pins but it just didn't feel right cross drilling my walmart, if i can call them dsp stocks, couldn't do it. Thats kinda funny ain't it, 2 grown men can't bring themselves to drill 2 holes- hey some things as just blasphemy, lol joe :)
 
#21 ·
I'm not much of a machinist when it comes to lathes. I do better on a mill though.

To be very honest I'm so happy with the way my rifles are shooting I am afraid to touch them now.:eek: :eek:
 
#23 ·
I'll check but i think it is plenty big enough for a cleaning rod, it's the next size up from the front take down screw. You would probably have to load the patch inside the receiver!~ thanks joe:)
 
#24 ·
Now thats what I like...great pictures Joe. For us'ns that are visual learners this post is like reading a book on your modifications. Now that Ive seen what you did Im gonna make a modification on my own project, namely the front bedding pillar.

Thanks a bunch, and make sure you let us know how she shoots!

Silvertp
 
#25 ·
Now thats what I like...great pictures Joe. For us'ns that are visual learners this post is like reading a book on your modifications. Now that Ive seen what you did Im gonna make a modification on my own project, namely the front bedding pillar.

Thanks a bunch, and make sure you let us know how she shoots!

Silvertp
Thanks Mr Silvertp!
Here is the first target, 25 yards -Wolf MT -5 shot groups.
Not great but ok for the for a starting point.

The stock is right against the bbl about 1 1/2" after the receiver. I'm going to sand the bbl channel just a bit tilll she is fully free floating. I want to test without the tuner thingie also.

I'm sure lucky it wasn't all "Zeros"... now i got something to do, lol joe:)

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#28 ·
Here you go Mr. 'Bo.. i dug these out of the garbage i shot last week. i shot this bbl about 2 years ago but just now plugged 'er back in last week. I don't have much before data in this stock.

These are mainly 3 shot groups of wolf mt. with the home made tuner. Now don't call me on the 3 shot groups, some are some ain't -i was just getting a feeling of what the bbl was doing.

The conditions were close last week, maybe a few degrees cooler. No other changes for today targets except for the pillar bedding front and rear.

The first 5 shot group i shot this morning i could see the improvement. I just had the feeling last week she was moving in the stock. I think it was. I'm going to fully free float the bbl next. joe :)

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#27 ·
I decided to try another ammo before the conditions changed.. it seemed maybe the wolf was jumpin out a bit. i had some eley 10x kinda pricy but should tell me something. I didn't touch anything just changed ammo and it did tighten the groups a bit. The top right was me, i dropped the shot not the rifle.

Now i will make a few changes! joe:)
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#29 ·
Just what I was hoping you could show everyone. Any time a project like this comes to fruition I like to see before and after results posted so all the guys who are afraid to take it on can see the positive results.

I have no doubt you will post some even better after additional tweaking. :bthumb:
 
#31 ·
Mr. wizzr here is where i lucked out for a drill guide, the remote grinder/dremel laid on a 1/16" piece of aluminum fit dead center of my receiver.

I just cut a thin piece of aluminum about 1/16" to fit the bottom of the receiver cut-out in the stock. I cut one of the wife's foam nail file inn 2 pieces to shim each side of the dremel for dead centering. I had a short -i think it was .410 drill bit, turned the sterm down so it would fit the dremel. all i had to do is hold the dremel down flat and just push for a perfect hole.

I went slow when she was about ready to cut thru so the wood wouldn't splinter. I think maybe walnut might be sorta "locked grain" so it doesn't splinter. Anyway the dremil with the drill bit cuts an excellent hole.

You can use a smaller drill bit for the first trip if you want, set the receiver in the stock and center punch the back of the receiver using your drilled hole for the center punch guide. joe :)

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#32 ·
Well Dad Gum man! I thought that was some sort of fancy jig you machined out of aluminum!

And my dremel sure doesn't look like that!
 
#34 ·
Wow Mr. 'bo i didn't want to mislead you into thinking i know what i'm doing, lol!

Here is what i used. The grinder dia is almost 1" -that puts the hole 1/2" up on the receiver which is about dead center.

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Click the pic and buy one!! It is a very handy item!! You will need some burs and "stuff".. it sure comes in handy!! They were $69 when i bought mine several years ago. Very well made -suprised me!



Buy these also, works!! search their site for polishing stuff also.


 
#35 ·
Well I'd say from how it turned out, you very definitely know what you're doing.

I have that bit set. I also have a cord/extention for a standard dremel and it has NEVER worked worth a hoot! I might have to get one of those Harbour Freight specials. :bthumb:
 
#36 ·
Nice Joe...VERY nice work!

Do you think a support pillar just ahead of the receiver is still necessary when using a rear hold down? Just curious as I am using both plus a small pressure pad under the barrel at the end of the stock. I am considering removing the barrel support pillar and just going with the stock takedown screw, my rear right and left 8-32s and the small pressure pad under the barrel at the end of the stock.
Thanks Joe, again, great work!
 
#37 ·
Nice Joe...VERY nice work!
Do you think a support pillar just ahead of the receiver is still necessary when using a rear hold down? Just curious as I am using both plus a small pressure pad under the barrel at the end of the stock. I am considering removing the barrel support pillar and just going with the stock take down screw, my rear right and left 8-32s and the small pressure pad under the barrel at the end of the stock.
Thanks Joe, again, great work!
For me It is just hard to say what is best. Without a rear bedding pillar probably some kind of support just ahead of the receiver would be a good idea. Reading the forums you see a lot of different things that work. A lot of guys here swear by the front pressure pad. I have tried a front pressure pad in the past but not really have ever "wrung it out" to the point i can say yea or nay.

My thoughts for a second bedding lug and totally free floating the bbl is
REPEATABILITY. For me when i'm "experimenting around" I think either good or bad i have a better chance of repeating my bedding each time i take the gun down and reassemble. I think pressure pads up front work but i worry about repeatability as the pressure pads takes a set.

Here is a project i'm still working with, i call it my "Turbo Experimental". I have a front pressure pad -a micrometer. I can adjust front upward pressure .001 at a time. There is a small dimple about a half a hole in the bbl if you will the mic sets in, the upward pressure is repeatable. I have a Harrel tuner up front on the Lilja 4 grove bbl- next step is take the tuner off and work with the "pressure pad".

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My thoughts with the second bedding pillar among other things should make the take down and reassembly more repeatable. thanks joe