In your kit, the 3/4" long machine screw should be 8-32 thread. I bought a bag of these round base T-nuts from Home Depot, take the machine screw stud with you to verify size. I used a dremel and a cutting disk to trim them more rectangular to fit in the magazine tube channel. I then drilled a thru hole in the Model 60 stock just big enough for the nut to fit through but not the shoulder of the sling stud. There's enough clamping force between the shoulder of the stud and the material left on the flange. Then just cut the 3/4" machine screw to length. Done it to all my Model 60s.

 

+1, this is the way I installed the sling swivels on my Model 60. This is the best and strongest way to install a sling.

 

Same installation on my 60, 2" from the end of the tip.

Mals

 

I go with the tube mount studs.

http://www.amazon.com/Uncle-Mikes-Detachable-Magazine-Swivels/dp/B002IEO16U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452118130&sr=8-2&keywords=tube+stud

 

I go with the tube mount studs.

I saw lots of folks saying that for sling supported shooting the tube mounts weren't that good because of the tension it puts on the tube causing issues. If I was just using the sling to carry the rifle around the woods I would have totally went that route.

 

Possible I suppose. Of course I mount mine close to the stock so the stock supports the tube. I leave just enough room for the swivel to not hit the stock.

Sorry, only readily available pic I have of this is my Savage 87A

 

I used a similar nut and bent two parallel sides up to match the curve. I set it with epoxy on the wings, being careful not to get it on the threads. For length of screw, assemble it and mark the screw before trimming it.

 

The t nut does or doesnt touch the ammo tube?

 

The nut should not touch the barrel.

 

I put a stud on a Marlin 60 a while back and the nut that was used was a better option IMO. I had to drill a small hole for the part of the flange that goes through the stock. The round part of the flange was much thinner and it had little spikes to set itself in the wood. It wasn't as thick as the one shown here but it did a fine job. I used it for years until I replaced the stock on my old 60. I never had any problems and I was always putting pressure on the sling when I was shooting. If the metal is spread out far enough it doesn't need to be thick to hold.

I believe it was an Unlce Mike's kit that I used but this has been probably 15 years ago or maybe more.

 

The round part of the flange was much thinner and it had little spikes to set itself in the wood. It wasn't as thick as the one shown here but it did a fine job.

I saw on some forum someone posted about T-Nuts at Home Depot. I think that's what you are speaking of, and the route that I think I'm going to go. Just have to match the threads with the TOC swivel I have. :bthumb:

 

I have used this same method to mount sling swivels on several Marlin semi's, and it works very well. If you have more than one Marlin, you might consider putting the swivels at the same points on each which will allow you to use the same sling on each without the hassle of readjusting it each time.

 

I added the above sling swivel's to my Marlin 795 SS. I'm one of the old guys here. I seldom do my own work on guns anymore but this was an easy job and I enjoyed doing it. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

I saw on some forum someone posted about T-Nuts at Home Depot. I think that's what you are speaking of...

No, that isn't what I used. I used a much thinner flange with little studs that dig into the wood when you tighten the nut down. They are on the flange (the flat part that fits against the wood. It was a kit I bought a long time ago. I don't know where I got it at this point. It may have been as much as 20 years ago that I did this but I didn't use a rectangle shaped flange like you describe. I think I know what I did. I still have the stock somewhere. It probably still has the studs in it. I may look for it soon and show you.

 

I used a regular #8 brass hex nut..

used a brad point drill to counter bore to allow half the nut thickness into stockk and
used "JB Wels" to set over-night, then used a 3/8 diamter rat-tail [round] file to file down to match the inside stock diamter.
Mag tube clears nicely.

Will use the "JB" to bed the rear action and then the reciever front and open barrel channel to free-floaat barrel and then bed the first 1-1/2 of barrel to support barrel the rest floats.

Looking to make it put three tigh into a "clover leaf @ 25yds, this will give a "point-blank" impact from 25 yds to 37yds, just right for squirrels!

 

Well, today was a rainy cool Sunday, so no range trip for me today so I decided to take advantage of the down time and took the stock back of, was able to pull the t-nut out and drilled a bit of the stock area where the flange sits on the stock to try and counter sink it.

Put the t-nut back in and got it down as far as I could. Also lightly sanded the barrel channel enough so it wasn't pushing on the barrel when I put it in the stock. Had to also sand down the swivel stud a bit because it was a tad longer than it needed to be so it was coming up through the t-nut and touching the mag tube.

I tightened everything back up and watched the mag tube and it doesn't flex up and touch the barrel anymore - even with the action screw nice and tight. So hopefully this will help get my groups smaller again.

 

this thread is exactly what I was looking for. thank you to everyone who has posted in it. especially with pics. difficult after photo bucket decided to be a fudd…but nevertheless. thanks again.. will be getting ne of those t nuts from ace hardware tomorrow!

 

You can use the nut that should come withe 8/32 stud ,drill a hole at your chosen point ( about 1 1/2" -2" from the forearm tip) centered from L to R big enough to fit the machine screw stud,on the interior side drill another hole centered on the first the same size as the 8/32 nut,a tight fit is what you need,the nut that should come with the kit has knurling or splines so that it grips in a tight hole ,insert the stud ,thread the nut on and tighten it until it pulls the nut into the hole and snugs up .note how much the threaded stud protrudes and cut off the excess length so nothing protrudes into the channel. Done,any wood screw in the thin forearm will cause problems eventually.

 

I am sorry guy's to bring this old thread back from the dead but could not help myself.

I put sling studs on my new Marlin model 60. Tube front stud. First was an Uncle Mikes but it kept turning the magazine tube and binding it between the barrel and the tube. Then I found a Williams magazine tube sling stud, no longer made. It was really a lot bigger than the Uncle Mikes and a lot more rugged. Thought that would do it, but still no luck. Still twisted the magazine tube and bound it up and caused my rounds to start wondering when fired.

I then read this thread that I found with a google search. Man what a cure I thought. Went straight out to Home Depot and bout the T-Nuts. Drilled the stock, curved the T-Nut (that was 10-32 thread, the studs I already had from an old Boyd's stock. It had a long stud and a short one. I used the short stud. It was perfect ) took a knife carved out the stock where the T-Nut would sit. What a perfect fix. Cost was $1.08 plus tax and gas.

So I will see how it holds up, but I can not imagine that anything could go wrong it is really secure and sold.

Really just wanted to say thanks for this old thread.

 

Took the rifle back out yesterday, what a difference in accuracy this swivel change made. I put slings on all my rifles because I shoot them most of the time off hand and use the sling to steady the rifle a bit. With this fix the rifle is shooting dead on, because the magazine mount swivel is not binding between the barrel and magazine tube when I wrap the sling around my arm and put pressure on it to pull it into my shoulder. Strong as can be.

Really think this should be a sticky, it would have saved me a big hassle.