Make sure you clean threads. Loctite should have held. You can use acetone to clean loctite and superglue up. Nail polish might work but its not the fastener loctite is. Make sure the threads are clean and the screws tight. I would recomend 242.

 

What the heck does hand tight actualy mean?? Why is cleaning the threads a big deal? What do you do? Take it off every day? Use blue loc-tite on clean threads and it won't come off by itself. Clear polish is lacquer. Probably harder to get off than a proper thread locker. Please tell us why you need to take it off after you put it on. There has got to be more to this story.

 

Sorry, I might have confused everyone. Let me say, I did not use any thread locker yet, that is why the screws loosen up even with a very very tight "hand tight".

I mentioned I hate loctite, that is based on my experience with other guns, that I had to chase the threads.

I'm just being me, I like to be able to remove the screws and clean up easily if need be. You know, just in case I need to change the rail for some reason ...

 

LOCTIE didn't become a major corporation because the industrial world hadn't heard of nail polish.

Use LOCTITE Blue, and pick up a torque screw driver. Only use a bit on the screw threads, I've used it on many screws that have come on and off without any issue of excessive build up.
Acetone will not remove it but, but once it's been left in the air after removal, you can get Blue off with a Scotch Brite pad. Nothing aggressive is required.

Because Ruger decided to use slotted screw heads instead of Torx heads you'll need to use a properly sized hollow ground screw diver bit, or screw driver.
Torque them to 10 inch pounds. That's a bit more than just snug.

Smooth

 

IME, it isn't necessary to clean out loctite residue when re-installing the screws. Loctite residue in the hole or on the threads will not affect the security of the screw when it is reinstalled with another dab of loctite. Acetone is typically used to clean out any oil that may be on/on the threads during the initial installation. Since loctite will prevent any oil from getting in/on the threads, it should not be necessary to clean them when a screw is being re installed unless the weapon has had oil applied W/O a screw in place,

 

xdm9mm...sir I never use loctite...my suggestion is finger nail polish...goes on easy...you can put it right you need it with a small brush inside...and in 10 minutes it is as hard as it is going to get...no need to wait for a half an hour or longer for loctite to set up and run every where you dont want. I have been using it for years.

Just a suggestion.

Signalman

 

Ditto--

I usually. lately, lap the scope rings and then lay a small swipe of rubber cement in the bottom half of the rings just before putting top half of ring on. Figure where the scope should be-front to rear-so rubber cement don't get smeared all over the scope. Tighten screws and nothing ever moves.

THe technique described in #28 (above) should not be necessary for scopes. I don't tighten rings and stock screws anywhere near as tight as I did 10 yrs ago.

 

threadlockers

in various other hobby projects I have used, nail polish, silicone sealer, plastic model glue, Elmer's glue; all in applications where I wanted the option to remove with minimal hassles.

On the other hand, for motorcycles where I wanted more permanence.....i.e. my life was in the balance....I willingly used Red Loctite which requires heat to remove.

Ferox34

 

Always use a Q tip and degreaser( I use denatured alcohol) to clean tapped holes and clean the screw threads before applying locker and installing, takes little time and yields best results.On smaller scope mounting machine screws(#8 and down) I use nail polish. these days one can get nail polish in any color , I use a lot of matte black working on firearms. I started doing this in the mid eighties(Wife donated a bottle to the cause) and there is a tiny spec of pink somewhere on many guns. I have never had a scope mount shoot loose. I have a Redfield base mounted to a .270 that has been used hard since 1987 with no issues.Medium strength Loctite works great of course but NEVER EVER use Green Loctite bearing retaining compound by accident on machine screws, ask me how I know

 

NEVER EVER use Green Loctite bearing retaining compound by accident on machine screws, ask me how I know

That stuff is MAGIC when needed! I can't see any use for it on a gun.

 

Loctite 222

For most firearm applications you should use Loctite 222 Low Strength.
You don't want to find your self in a situation where you can't get things apart again when needed.
Cleaning the threads beforehand ensures the product works in the manner intended.
Threads with oil, etc; on them will not allow the product to give the level of hold intended. Acetone or automotive Brake Cleaner will work just fine in place of the expensive Loctite product. Don't use something like nail polish remover, lighter fluid, or paint thinners. They contain oils that will interfere with adhesion.
Cleanup after disassembly really isn't all that hard. If you have it all over the place your using too much. Just one drop on the threads is plenty. I often use a toothpick to just get a drop inside the threads of tapped holes like a receiver.

 

N-D Industries, Vibra-Tite

 

This is a good suggestion if you're looking to be taking something on and off a bunch. I use it on free floated handguards on my ARs, very similar properties to the yellow thread locker compound that most Magpul provided screws come with.

 

If you want to go old school, you might try it with boiled linseed-oil, it was used in the past for this purpose by gunmakers long before Locktite was invented.I use it on the screws of my shotguns all the time, never one comes loose unless a screw-driver is used.

 

Blue Loctite is your friend

 

I like the loctite that comes in a Chapstick type tube, it is not liquid but much like a Chapstick consistency. Much easier to apply. I have had a tube for probably a couple years now and it hasn't dried up or changed in any way. Works like a champ and no dripping, running or waste.

I clean threaded holes and screw threads with a pipe cleaner dipped in 90% isopropyl alcohol.

A proper sized screw driver bit, used properly, will remove fasteners secured with blue loctite without a problem.

Personally I see no reason to use any other product but as an infamous grade school teacher once said, "Just remember, you're unique, just like everyone else." Classic !

 

as sal indicated, loctite 222 is the appropriate product for the screws you refer to. this is the purple loctite (possibly the "pink" loctite you mention?), designed for fasteners under ¼" in diameter. the blue stuff is 242, which will also work, but is not specifically designed for smaller applications.

as with any other color/number, loctite 222 is most effective when applied sparingly. it has given me no trouble with removal/reinstallation or cleanup.

on the other hand, if i was dead set against the stuff, i'd try signalman's suggestion - but only because he generally seems to know what he is talking about.:bthumb:

i will have to get my hands on some n-d vibra-tite... i was not previously aware of the stuff. this site is awesome for learning new things!

thanks xdm for bringing this question up - it's not the first time - and maybe the next time there will be a newer alternative product available. or maybe we'll all be using nail polish by then...

 

My favorite is the gel version of blue Loctite that I apply with a toothpick. It doesn't run everywhere like liquid blue Loctite does.

 

Thanks all again for your invaluable input. I have actually used a dib of nail polish on the rear sight locking screw when I first got the pistol, and when I shot the gun again yesterday, after 300 rounds, I noticed it unscrewed a little.


I decided to use a little blue loctite for the rail screws yesterday, they should be solid by now.


The N-D Industries, Vibra-Tite is also interesting.

I notice the "putty like" blob on the magpul screw on my AR handle screw. Also the Ruger front sight screw comes with a red "thing" on the screw as well. Maybe this is the same?



MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone !!!

 

I have a couple mounts for scopes for my AR-15's from American Defense. They ship their mounts with a small tube of Vibra-Tite VC-3 threadlocker. Unlike Loctite, you apply it to the screw threads & let it harden. You can then install & remove the screws to your hearts content:

https://www.vibra-tite.com/products/threadlockers/vibra-tite-vc-3-threadmate/

https://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-VC-3-Threadmate/dp/B008D6GHY6

 

+1 on Vibra-Tite VC-3 threadlocker

 

I purchased a used rifle with scope mounts attached. Started to remove them and they took some effort to remove. Saw the reddish rubbery material on the threads and receiver holes. Called the guy that sold me the rifle. He had tried out Vibra Tite to see how it would work. I can tell you, those screws wouldn't have backed out on their own. I was impressed with it.

 

Just to add, if you are having difficulty removing fasteners that have been loctited, applying some heat (hair drier etc) will generally loosen them up.

It is also important to follow the manufacturers recommendations as to torque. I usually see 10 to 12 inch pounds recommended for small, fine thread screws such as the one OP is dealing with. It could be more or less depending on if it's aluminum, steel or even poly. I use the Wheeler torque screwdriver, and tighten them to the torque spec, then loosen and re tighten to torque spec again.I do this in a cross over pattern or whatever makes sense given how the the fasteners are distributed. I've yet to have one come loose.

 

Vibra-TITE VC-3 Threadmate

Vibra-TITE VC-3 Threadmate

 

Why not??

Why not use the very product that is made expressly for holding screws?? Since it comes in varying grades for various functions, makes it even more desireable.
Blue is the one for your purpose- as others here have said.
You might want to look at a LockTite chart, perhaps it will made a bit more sense as to why it is the perfect product for what you want.
You can poke a hole in a piece of wood with a nail by hand if you work at it hard enough- but a drill is so much better.
Wes
http://westsidedelivers.com/images/products/LOCTITE/133-134.jpg

 

I noticed above where Ruger uses slotted screws for their rails as does TK. Is there a source for the same sized screws in Torx in the after market ? I have low contrast vision troubles and find I slip a bit on slotted screws.

 

For years I have used rubber cement, available at office supply stores. Inexpensive and stays sticky so screws don't get loose. Easy to remove. Clean the screws with alcohol first to remove oil and grease.

 

This really is not that difficult. Degrease the screws and threads and apply some Blue Loctite (242)(or similar product. Install. Done!

Loctite is a anaerobic product (it sets or dries without air)

Here this article has pictures.

http://www.outdoorlife.com/photos/gallery/hunting/2009/06/7-easy-steps-scope-mounting#page-3

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/t_lkr_blue/overview/loctite-threadlocker-blue-242.htm

 

Tightening screws

I have seen gunsmiths use a good fitting screwdriver, and while holding tension on the screw and screw driver, tap the end of the screwdriver to take up the slack in the threads which will tighten the screw without damage to the threads.

 

IMHO, there are few if any good options to Loctite when thread locking is needed. If you have cleaned the threads and torqued the screws and they still jar loose, then a thread locker is required.

Loctite Blue is a great tool in the firearm industry. Blue Loctite is great for strong bonds that may need to be broken later...typical of scope mounting.

Follow Loctite instructions to the tee. This includes screw and hole prep, which includes cleaning for sure and maybe application of an activator. Yes, Blue benefits from an activator on less active metal surfaces such as stainless steel or aluminum...no activator is need on steel. Cure time varies...Blue will cure in approximately 6 hrs on steel, but requires alproximatley 24 hours on stainless and a bit less on aluminum...the activator will speed up the latter.

The Loctite Technical Data Sheets can be found via Google and are an excellent source of information.

I listened in on a Net forum hosted by a guy from Loctite. I learned a ton in that 1.5 hr session. I believe the session may be archived at OAUSA.Net. It was one of the 2016 weekly nets, but was likely titled as something other than Loctite, like essential tools for offroaders.

Anyway, good luck on your mounting project.