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I thought this might help you.
I setup a Capt America target at 25 yards and tried to capture the scope image with my EP5 at the 25yd parallax setting.
The pictures are not as good as actual view from the scope but they might be useful compared to what you see.

gk


18X

Image



25X

Image
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I thought this might help you.
I setup a Capt America target at 25 yards and tried to capture the scope image with my EP5 at the 25yd parallax setting.
The pictures are not as good as actual view from the scope but they might be useful compared to what you see.

gk


18X

View attachment 516384


25X

View attachment 516385
That’s much better than mine. You can actually read the letters at 25x. Very odd

all other magnification looks fine on mine. I’m sending it back. Too bad. I got an excellent price on as well
 
How far are you trying to shoot? A 30 MOA rail is quite a lot for rimfire, like 200 yards worth before touching the scope. Trying to setup a rimfire rifle to shoot from 25 to 200+ yards is quite a thing. Regradless, the Venom is rated for 10 yard minimum, so it should work well at 25 yards. They are both budget Chinese optics at the end of the day and you could certainly have received a bad out of the box Arken. Question: After removing the scope did you recenter the vertical adjustment?
 
I was reading this post and did not read where the OP said he was near the max adjustment on his scope. Some replies were making this assumption or I missed that? He did mention 30 and 40 MOA bases. This got me to thinking. As a mental exercise: If I set the scope to the very midpoint of the adjustment (optical center) and mount on a 0 moa base I would be hitting 2" low at 15 to 25 yards. Give or take, in an ideal or theoretical world. The center of the scope height above the center of the barrel minus trivial amount of bullet drop would set my POI low.

Without adjusting the scope, if I change to a 10 MOA base I should raise my POI closer to zero at 25 yards. At some point the base alone would provide enough elevation to zero the gun at 25. Then MORE MOA base would be needed to zero at 15 yards. More like almost double the MOA number. Note, using the base only to adjust elevation.

The MOA base at some point should make it EASIER to zero at very close ranges. Not a problem, but a benefit.

Right or wrong?
 
It makes it able to use more of the scopes vertical adjustment at longer distance, not closer. You could technically run out of vertical UP adjustment with a big base like that one, and I have on a 1" tube scope using a 20 MOA rail shooting at 50 yards. That Arken is 34mm so it has a lot of adjustment, but 40 MOA is a lot to overcome at 25 yards. To get 1 MOA at 25 yards should require like 20~ clicks on a 1/4" scale.
 
To zero rifle at 15 yards you need to dramatically elevate the barrel. Like aiming at the sky! These big objective diameter scopes high above bore make it worse. This is no comment on the rational on using a 30 MOA base. But blaming the base for poor image seems like wishful thinking. Very wishful. Just dial the scope to center and eyebal the target. Forget the zero.

Now the catch, what is the best extra MOA for a base when sighting in at 25 yards. Same question 15 yrds. Some MOA will help rather make it worse. How much?
 
This is no comment on the rational on using a 30 MOA base. But blaming the base for poor image seems like wishful thinking. If anything it should help at close range.
If zeroing a scope and the scope with its mounting point allows a dead center of the scopes elevation adjusting range lets say is 75 yards then the farther away from that 75 point you are trying to zero the more of optics internal adjustment range you are using and the further towards the outer part of the lens that you are looking through at that point.

Many optics and even more so in the budget scopes with lesser glass quality the further you deviate from that center sweet point the more the image will become blurry or fuzzy due to the poorer overall lens quality from edge to edge.

Add in the 40moa base as in this discussion which is to compensate for the lack of internal optics adjustment range for long distance shooting the closer in the yardage you are trying to set your zero the even more amplified of using the elevation range to the max in the opposite direction and looking through the lens in a less optimum on the extreme edges viewing area that the elevated MOA rail is trying to adjust for as compared to using a 0 or level moa rail.

The 40 moa rail designed to allow the optic to adjust for longer ranges is actually going against setting the zero in extremely close ranges such as 25 yards.
 
If zeroing a scope and the scope with its mounting point allows a dead center of the scopes elevation adjusting range lets say is 75 yards then the farther away from that 75 point you are trying to zero the more of optics internal adjustment range you are using and the further towards the outer part of the lens that you are looking through at that point.

Many optics and even more so in the budget scopes with lesser glass quality the further you deviate from that center sweet point the more the image will become blurry or fuzzy due to the poorer overall lens quality from edge to edge.

Add in the 40moa base as in this discussion which is to compensate for the lack of internal optics adjustment range for long distance shooting the closer in the yardage you are trying to set your zero the even more amplified of using the elevation range to the max in the opposite direction and looking through the lens in a less optimum on the extreme edges viewing area that the elevated MOA rail is trying to adjust for as compared to using a 0 or level moa rail.

The 40 moa rail designed to allow the optic to adjust for longer ranges is actually going against setting the zero in extremely close ranges such as 25 yards.
I understand you. But do you understand me? The elevated MOA base should ease zero at very close range. Nobody knows because it seems like a stupid issue to worry about shooting a 300 yrd rifle at 15. The OP is doing that. So. Why are you making assumptions on him maxing out the adjustment? Not 50 yds.

Let us forget the zero and the base. The OP does not have to zero at 25 yards. He can just set the scope to optical center and focus at 25 yards and see where he is at. Any base. if he cannot do that then RFC is done. There is no helping.

It is ironic, his 300 yard zero and 15 yard zero might be the same elevation setting. And a 200 yd zero an 25 yard zero might also share a common line-of-sight crossing point. You all the big boy long range guys, not me.
 
I did shot my 22LR at 100 yards and I need about 6 or 8 inch when moving out from 50. My world. My clubs does not have a 25 yard target berm, let alone 15 for rifle!! And I dont use gigantic scopes that need big adjustments up close. People here talk and 15, 25 and 200,300 like it was normal.

Simple quesion when one is zero at 200 yards what is his actual POI at 25 yards with that gun? Why would anyone care? I dont know, only today.

You all know the bullet goes up crosses the line of sight and then comes down again? We can agree on that. Any kind of "long range gun" will always have two zero crossings. One on the way up and again falling back down on target.
 
I need to find some of those gravity defying bullets. A bullet drops as soon as it leaves the barrel. The barrel is tilted up, ever so slightly, so the bullet travels in an arc and crosses the line of sight through the scope. My EP5 is zeroed at 50 yds with a 25 MOA rail and at 25 yds it will explode an aspirin by holding the dot on the bottom edge of the aspirin. It will also dial 40-42 MOA and hit an 8" gong at 300 yds. That's 10 feet of holdover and you can see the bullet drop in to view from the top of the glass.
 
You totally miss the point. You could tell me if you wanted to? I dont know. Set the scope with that 42 MOA of elevation and shoot at 15 yards. What is the POI at 15 yards? Again at 25. Simple question. Ball in your court.

I have no idea, I have to ask. But 40 MOA is what the OP tried at one point.
 
The whole point of what the OP is possibly running into has to do with where the optics internal adjustment is ending up as far as it max travel and at what part of the lens you end up viewing the centered crosshair through.
The whole purpose of the 40moa rail is to allow the internal adjustments on the optic to allow dialing to POI at much longer distances such as 300+ yards with as we know the .22lr has a very large amount of drop at that distance.

As we move the optic by the use of a canted rail to be more optimized for dialing in at the really long yardages when we start moving to trying to zero at really short distances the optic may really be at its most extreme range of its adjustment as it also has to compensate for the additional cant the rail is applying to the equation.

A 40 moa rail is a pretty extreme cant to adjust for as most people run somewhere between a 20moa up to about a 30moa rail and 40 moa is not one of the more common choices for most people shooting a more variety of distances.

Its not complicated but just changing which side of the and how much of the optics adjustment is used to make the optic more friendly to shooting extremely long distances that the caliber really is not designed for.
Once you start using the extreme edges of the adjustment regardless of whether to increase or decrease the optics zero distance then you get out of the sweet part of the lens which provides the clearest picture possible.
 
Update:
I set up two paper Targets (fly challenge and tac driver challenge) in my backyard about 25 yards away and I tested my Vortex Venom 5x25x56 and the ARKEN EP5. Results with the ARKEN were the same. The flys and the circles were very blurry. I can barely make out what they are.

On the venom, the parallax goes down to 15 yards. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!. I can actually read the letters on the paper and see the circles and flys clearly.

The question now is, do I plan on shooting at 25 yards often to make me want to return this and get another vortex?

I was going to get another vortex at first but I decided to get something different and not just drink the vortex kool-aid. This is frustrating. I really wanted to love the ARKEN but this has spoiled the honeymoon phase.
You guys shoot rifles at 25 yards ?
 
You totally miss the point. You could tell me if you wanted to? I dont know. Zero the scope with that 42 MOA of elevation and shoot at 15 yards. What is the POI at 15 yards? Simple question. Ball in your court.
Not sure I understand your question. My scope is zeroed at 50 yds. POI at 25 yds is the width of the center dot high. At 15 yds, I don't know exactly but lets say .5 MOA high. If I leave the elevation set at + 42 MOA the point of impact would be 10 ft high at 15 yds. I could zero the scope at 15 yds, but it's below the range of parallax adjustment and the target wouldn't be in clear focus. As to the OP's problem I think the 50 MOA base is causing the scope to be on the edge of it's adjustability. My Vortex scope's parallax will go to 15 yds and I also shoot it at 300 yds.
 
With the scope at 1.8 inches above the bore it would require roughly 7 minutes of elevation to zero at 25 yards an about 11-1/2 minutes at 15 yards from scope center. Not counting any rainbow in the barrel bore.

I would send that scope back and let Arken fix it. I had a nightforce that was clear at 50 and a friend with an identical nxs that was blurry at 50. Let them know what you are needing and I think they will take care of it.
 
With the scope at 1.8 inches above the bore it would require roughly 7 minutes of elevation to zero at 25 yards an about 11-1/2 minutes at 15 yards from scope center. Not counting any rainbow in the barrel bore.

I would send that scope back and let Arken fix it. I had a nightforce that was clear at 50 and a friend with an identical nxs that was blurry at 50. Let them know what you are needing and I think they will take care of it.
I better clarify. That is zero moa base. Scope and barrel are parallel.
 
Not sure I understand your question. My scope is zeroed at 50 yds. POI at 25 yds is the width of the center dot high. At 15 yds, I don't know exactly but lets say .5 MOA high. If I leave the elevation set at + 42 MOA the point of impact would be 10 ft high at 15 yds. I could zero the scope at 15 yds, but it's below the range of parallax adjustment and the target wouldn't be in clear focus. As to the OP's problem I think the 50 MOA base is causing the scope to be on the edge of it's adjustability. My Vortex scope's parallax will go to 15 yds and I also shoot it at 300 yds.
NO it will NOT be 10 foot high!! OK, you can refuse if you want. I am asking you to dial up the 42 MOA for 300 yard shooting and fire at 15 and 25 yards.

Edit: Never mind. I think I got an answer from Jmach.

2nd edit: Just a WAG, new info. You might actaully be zeroed at 5 (?) yards when you shoot out to 300.
 
With the scope at 1.8 inches above the bore it would require roughly 7 minutes of elevation to zero at 25 yards an about 11-1/2 minutes at 15 yards from scope center. Not counting any rainbow in the barrel bore.

I would send that scope back and let Arken fix it. I had a nightforce that was clear at 50 and a friend with an identical nxs that was blurry at 50. Let them know what you are needing and I think they will take care of it.
Thank you. Finally. Numbers

So dang. If right. Then 20 would be harmless. A 10 MOA base would be right on at close range. The 20 MOA would over shoot by 10 MOA, no worse than the correction needed for 0 MOA base. Rounded off. And as you all know and posted 40 is excessive working up to 300 yds. That is also off topic. The scope is hurtin. Aparently with what ever elevation was set?

My off topic tidbit. A 10 MOA base would optimize short range 15 - 25 yards shooting. Trusting the quoted post.
 
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