I had a VERY accurate Lillja barrel that I purchased for a benchrest 1022 project back in 2013-14, but found that it was a slightly loose fit in the Kidd Classic barrel that I was building around. Once I ascertained that it was an accurate barrel, I glued it in with Loctite 603 and used a Gunsmither block. I mounted the receiver vertically in a padded vise, leveled it carefully and mated it with 603- MAKING SURE to center the extractor hook in the groove by installing the bolt without the recoil assembly.
If I ever want to get it loose, simple heat to about 375F should work based on the spec sheet for the 603 product. My recommendation would be to extensively test the barrel before you glue it in, you want to know that you have something worthwhile before you marry it!!!

Here's the rifle:

 

I had a VERY accurate Lillja barrel that I purchased for a benchrest 1022 project back in 2013-14, but found that it was a slightly loose fit in the Kidd Classic barrel that I was building around. Once I ascertained that it was an accurate barrel, I glued it in with Loctite 603 and used a Gunsmither block. I mounted the receiver vertically in a padded vise, leveled it carefully and mated it with 603- MAKING SURE to center the extractor hook in the groove by installing the bolt without the recoil assembly.
If I ever want to get it loose, simple heat to about 375F should work based on the spec sheet for the 603 product. My recommendation would be to extensively test the barrel before you glue it in, you want to know that you have something worthwhile before you marry it!!!

Here's the rifle:

Nice looking rig! Thanks for the info!

 

You do realize, green loctite is a thinner version of red, right? Used to lock parts together after assembly. If you ever want to take it apart again, it will be a problem. It does take some time to "set up", so it's not as if it will lock it in place quickly, but after it dries...you're not going to get the parts separated without significant force.

 

I meant 603, Edited my last post for accuracy

Actually the 603 I used was low temp, recommended by a gunsmith friend. I tested it on an OEM barrel and old beat up receiver first. I glued it, let it set for 3 months (I was in no hurry, it was winter), and was able to disassemble it with a simple heat gun using a diffuser.

I appreciate the warning, though-

DrG

 

Instead of their thread locker products, you should use Loctite 638 or 648 Retaining Compound on slip-fit barrels.

 

603 is retaining compound

 

The version of Loctite "green" I was referring to is more like thin superglue. Not sure what number they put on the bottle. Been over a decade since I used it, it is strong stuff. I'm sure heat would be a good option after the fact, but still won't be easy...and will require extra attention to clean up even after that.

 

I'm not surprised. The 603 I used was about 10 years ago as well. I made sure to test it myself on parts that didn't matter before taking it to the expensive stuff. It would not surprise me if they've changed, added, or removed products from their line since then.

DrG

 

I only use blue and silver now. Blue for stuff like rails and rings that I want to stay together, but be able to come apart later. Or, silver for anti-seize...so stuff comes apart easy. Red is the devil, the green was the devil in different clothes.

 

Green is for a press fit, if it is not tight already then it will not work well. Maybe use some J. B. Weld or epoxy.

 

I'm not in the habit of swapping barrels once a rifle is together.. if I want a different barrel, I usually just build another rifle..but, if I wanted something other than a slip fit, I would have Randy do his receiver threading job to it

nothing against the guys that are gluing their barrels in..just sayin' that's what I would do

 

Loctite 609 is the one you want IME. Just use the bolt without the recoil spring assembly installed to align the extractor as noted above. Or...on a quality receiver like a Kidd, you can level the barrel using a bubble on the flat that the V-bock butts up against, then level the receiver using the bubble across the sides of the receiver on the bottom. After it is indexed, plumb the whole thing vertical in a padded vise until the Loctite sets. Don't use the block, as it will pull a loose fitting barrel tenon out of line. You can install it later when everything has cured as a "belt and suspenders" but the Loctite is probably adequate on its own.

 

With nearly all very accurate .22lr barrels, they all seem to have something in common when it is assembled. Even though it does not seem to matter as much with the 10/22 platform due to the somewhat sloppy bolt having to conform itself to the angle of the barrel chamber fit in the receiver, a few things can be done to help with accuracy. If you already have a barrel / receiver that has to be assembled using the heat / freezer method for a tight fit, you're probably good to go. To have your quality barrel centered for even combustion in the chamber is highly recommended for max accuracy. If not, how to center your 10/22 barrel to properly fit in a loose receiver is easy .... explained here:

Also found this in replacing an Anchutz barrel, a few of these suggestions may give you some ideas as well:

FITTING A .22 RIMFIRE BARREL

Best of luck!

 

Great info here, thanks everyone for the wealth of information! I wasn’t aware there were so many variations of green Loctite. I only knew of what I used when I worked for an OEM oil deal manufacturer a few years back. It was high heat and fairly permanent for assembly of turbo compressor seals. I don’t ever intend to disassemble this rifle so I will probably use it. I will thoroughly test the barrel before using the Loctite though. I’ve got all my components ordered or on hand now. I’m stoked for this build. It has:
A CST receiver and power match bolt
Midwest Industries chassis ( got it here) I’ve had it machined to accept the rear action bolt. I also had to mill the handguard to fit the extended CST rail. I’ll detail this in a separate thread.
Kidd 20” barrel
Leupold VX3 6-24x50 scope with Talley QD rings
Timney Calvin Elite single stage trigger
MDT lite buttstock

 

So a CST receiver and KIDD barrel combo is not intimate enough?

I was actually ruminating on the merger of both makes, hmm.

So no sanding was done at all?

Anyway, you might want to use a Gunsmither's Block first: https://gunsmithertools.com/shop/ol...hop/ols/products/xn-gunsmither-1022-elevation-correcting-barrel-block-r6b32134b

I haven't used one yet nor have the need to do so, but those who have swear by it.

 

I believe the GREEN Loctite is 270. https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/threadlockers/loctite_270.html

270 wicks on threads. If you put a drop on the tip of screw and screw it in it will migrate through out the female and male threads.

Regardless what some web sites that sell it say about it go to the henkel web site to get more accurate info.

If I need to remove a screw I heat it up.

Here's a tip. Instead of using a heat gun or a expensive soldering iron buy one of these for under twenty dollars.

It has different tips that will allow you to concentrate heat on the the smallest screws.

I have also used this to plastic weld but limited to one temp which limits the plastic it can be used on.

A Weller 15 piece wood burning kit.

 

270 is a thread locker. For gluing in a barrel you want a retaining compound like is used for installing bearings on a cylindrical shaft. 609 is medium strength and is more than enough to hold a 10/22 barrel in a receiver. You can use the stronger stuff, but it will only make things harder if you want to remove the barrel. I don't bother with gluing in barrels anymore. I just get a Kidd barrel and a Kidd receiver. I've had to bake the receivers at 250 degrees for 30 minutes to get them to expand enough to fit over the barrel stub. After the receiver cools I doubt you even need a wedge, but I use one anyway.

 

Excellent info, thanks for posting

 

What about lightly ‘knurling’ the barrel. I’d knurl bicycle forks to get a tighter race fit.

Not sure how applicable it is to the 10/22.

 

I'd be concerned about damaging the chamber dimensions when applying enough force to the outside of the barrel to move metal.