I use Hornady OneShot, although I don’t know if it “is best”, and I don’t really care. All I know is it works very well for me, and is readily available.

 

Same. Since I tried this on my rimfires I have not gone back.

 

Hornady One Shot for me. It works. Use it on all my .22’s: 10/22’s, 22/45, and .22 bolt guns. Never have lubrication issues even after 100’s of rounds.

 

There's been lots of dry lubes used and recommended over the years, Hornady One Shot isn't the only choice. I'm on my second can, it it is good lube, but I'm not sure if I'll keep using it just due to the price. $20/can is pretty dang salty.

 

For what it is worth, I have been using bicycle chain dry lube without any issues. Designed for dirty, hard use, it is good at staying in place and not attracting dirt. It is also good at pennitrating into tight fits.

 

The forum's search function turns up so many discussions on this topic - yet here we are again.

Like sourdough, I use OneShot with great success. Is it the "best"? What does that even mean? SMH.

Based on the input from many others, use the cheapest lube you can find, they all work the same especially those not designed for firearms. Why not buy a can of PAM for $4?





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The forum's search function turns up so many discussions on this topic - yet here we are again

Yup. That and trigger threads seem to show regularly.

 

I never tested any others. I just went to the Hornady One Shot. It works. It is costly but it doesn't get sprayed every day or even every cleaning. It doesn't evaporate, run off, or wipe off, it remains in place.

I like the idea of bicycle chain dry lube.

 

Another user of Hornady..

Mostly because I know that the products carrier (the part that evaporates leaving the lube behind) is safe for the finish of firearms

although I”ll admit I have gambled and used WD-40 dry lube spray when I’ve run out of the One Shot on occasion

 

although I”ll admit I have gambled and used WD-40 dry lube spray when I’ve run out of the One Shot on occasion

What did ya think of the WD-40 dry lube?

 

I've almost exclusively used RemOil for 20? years. Is it the best?
Why mess with success?

 

I've almost exclusively used RemOil for 20? years. Is it the best?
Why mess with success?

remoil (or any lube that stays wet on the surface on which it was applied) collects the unburnt powder (or blowing sand here in the desert) and other debris, and turns into a goo after a few rounds..something that the dry film lubricants don't do as quickly

 

Amazon now wants $24.05 for the one shot. The WD40 dry lube with PTFE is $6.58. Both cover the same temp ranges. I had a can of the wd 40 dry lube so I gave it a try on my 10/22 rather than the one shot I’ve been using. Spraying it the receiver and on the removed bolt, then wiping them down I can’t tell any difference in cleaning. Function wise I can’t tell any difference with the 10/22 action. I don’t run thousands of rounds between cleanings so I doubt I’ll ever notice a wear difference between either.

I’ll use up my can of one shot but have no plans of spending $24 for another can.

 

Amazon now wants $24.05 for the one shot. The WD40 dry lube with PTFE is $6.58. Both cover the same temp ranges. I had a can of the wd 40 dry lube so I gave it a try on my 10/22 rather than the one shot I’ve been using. Spraying it the receiver and on the removed bolt, then wiping them down I can’t tell any difference in cleaning. Function wise I can’t tell any difference with the 10/22 action. I don’t run thousands of rounds between cleanings so I doubt I’ll ever notice a wear difference between either.

I’ll use up my can of one shot but have no plans of spending $24 for another can.

I buy it here. They have free shipping frequently.

Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner 10oz Aerosol

Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner with Dyna Glide Plus reduces friction, cleans grit, grime, old oil and gunk from firearms, loaders and loading tools. It...

www.midwayusa.com

 

I know lot's have been discussed about dry film lube the receiver. So after everyone's opinion..

Hi, don't know what the best is but I couldn't find anything else to buy in Canada, so I bought WD40 Dry Lube. Only used it once, that was a couple of cleanings ago, now I am running dry-dry. lol While I may not be the best gun greaser around, I can tell you my 10/22 has never seen 500 rounds before I clean it. Probably wear it out taking it apart long before lack of lube sets in.

 

Sorry, I thought wiping was your last step. Hence my question. Spraying a second time changes that. Now I understand. Thanks.

I use HOS. It after the first application a dry film is left. From then on a spray dissolves the previous application and the crud is supposed to run off with the dissolved stuff. But so far I have tested that with a second cleaning onto a white paper. Yup there was the black crud. Since then I've just been using compressed air to blow out the particles and I remove the carbon ring with C4. So far that's been working. For the bore I pull a ripcord through it; in the chamber and out the muzzle. If accuracy degrades I'd consider a brush and cleaner but so far so good. I spent a lot of $ to season that bore and I don't want to hurt it. I haven't sprayed a 3rd time yet.

 

I've used Hornady One-Shot for about two years now and am delighted with it. For many years previous I used CRC silicone spray. To be perfectly honest I believe they perform equally well in my 10/22s, my Ruger PC Carbine, my S&W M&P FPC, and my S&W 15-22.

In my opinion none of these guns really requires "lubrication." But all suffer from the gunk build-up caused by oily lubricant/burnt powder residue. The benefit of both is a coating that dry residue won't stick to, making cleaning really easy when it's necessary.

 

Dildster, you may be right. Could be they don’t require lubrication. That said the 22rf doesn’t have a lot of ummmpf so having a little less friction isn’t a bad thing in keeping it running.

 

One what parts of your firearm do you apply it? I have a pound of hexagonal boron nitride at 50nm particle size, but not sure where to use it.

 

Dry lube is typically nothing else than Teflon spray. Generic brands cost here around 2 dollars a can. So even if I need double the amount compared to the magic brands I will still be able to buy two boxes of match 22lr and 2 cans of dry lube for the magic brands.
Personally I prefer not to inhale the Teflon particles which are flying around with every press of the nozzle and every pressof the trigger. I only use Teflon spray for special, non firearm related, applications.

For metal parts rubbing on each other I prefer molydenum or graphite.

Don't live in any arid dry area. So no reason at all for a dry lube. I just mix regular 10w40 with graphite powder and use that. With the oil as transport medium the graphite powder goes everywhere. Depending on need I can mix rich or less rich.

 

Dry lube is typically nothing else than Teflon spray. Generic brands cost here around 2 dollars a can. So even if I need double the amount compared to the magic brands I will still be able to buy two boxes of match 22lr and 2 cans of dry lube for the magic brands.
Personally I prefer not to inhale the Teflon particles which are flying around with every press of the nozzle and every pressof the trigger. I only use Teflon spray for special, non firearm related, applications.

For metal parts rubbing on each other I prefer molydenum or graphite.

Don't live in any arid dry area. So no reason at all for a dry lube. I just mix regular 10w40 with graphite powder and use that. With the oil as transport medium the graphite powder goes everywhere. Depending on need I can mix rich or less rich.

There are other things used as dry lube. Graphite is probably the oldest, but I have heard it is not good for aluminum, no idea why. Molybdenum or tungsten disulfide, and my favorite is hexogonal boron nitride which is the least messy of the bunch. HBN can be suspended in alcohol, applied and let dry to leave a film. The stuff is very slick, get some on your fingers and you will see. Also it is non toxic and is used in a lot of cosmetic products such as lipsticks, lotions, creams and shampoos to add the feeling of slickness. I have also tumbled bullets and pellets in it to use as a lubricant. HBN powder is white and leaves a somewhat whiteish translucent looking film I mix some in a lightweight oil and some in grease for lubricating some parts

 

Hornady One Shot is quite popular.

 

I use CRC dry moly on my machines will have to try it on a gun.

 

Looks like it should do the job quite well.

 

The search function is your friend. There are literally dozens of threads on this topic, some are less that a week old - and yet here we are again. It took me under two minutes to find and copy these:

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/dry-film-lube.1327975/?post_id=13729513#post-13729513

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/new-lube-for-supergrade.1319294/?post_id=13612423#post-13612423

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/dry-lube-question.1318849/?post_id=13605690#post-13605690

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/lube-question.1282105/?post_id=13127699#post-13127699

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/lube-for-kidd-bolt.1279660/?post_id=13092083#post-13092083

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/graphite-dry-lube.1275159/?post_id=13029830#post-13029830

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/another-dry-lube-question.1270120/?post_id=12961442#post-12961442

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Yeah…how dare you ask a question on a discussion forum. 🤣

 

After a trigger job I very lightly lube the mating surfaces (spring leafs, disconnector to trigger bow, etc.) with Mobil 1. Not trying to get into all the possible lubes out there. I like Mobil 1.

Does anyone have any experience with dry film lube on the mating surfaces? The advantage would be good lubricity with little to no tendency to collect dirt. Since the loads on those parts are relatively light, maybe a dry film might be better. The NASA spec is easily enough adapted to garage work. Or there are sprayable Teflon based dry films. Any experience out there?

Plenty of dry spray lubes in aerosol cans. For fine work on trigger components like the sear notch or pins I'd think a lube in a precision dropper would be the ticket.

 

Yeah…how dare you ask a question on a discussion forum.

SMH. It's a matter of courtesy. Every single forum I belong to has a search function. Newbies very seldom expend the effort to search, many prefer to have others do all the work for them - even though they will have to wait for others to spend the time to respond to the same questions over and over instead of finding the answers right away. How many identical threads do we need running at the same time?

The OP has started multiple threads asking very basic questions, some of which have been answered within the past few days. I am really not meaning to scold him, only to educate him that there may be a better way to find his answers. You do you.



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It’s like one of those “Help Me Choose….” threads. I mean, why would I even ask someone to choose a car or whatever for me?

..and there’s the all too common “How Much is That” for a very common item that you can readily surf the net for, but I guess that’s the trend nowadays: to be spoon-fed.

 

After a trigger job I very lightly lube the mating surfaces (spring leafs, disconnector to trigger bow, etc.) with Mobil 1. Not trying to get into all the possible lubes out there. I like Mobil 1.

Does anyone have any experience with dry film lube on the mating surfaces? The advantage would be good lubricity with little to no tendency to collect dirt. Since the loads on those parts are relatively light, maybe a dry film might be better. The NASA spec is easily enough adapted to garage work. Or there are sprayable Teflon based dry films. Any experience out there?

Anschutz makes one that I have used a lot and, it works great. I have NOT used it for the specific purpose you mention though.

 

I prefer to have my 10/22 action be wet lubed.
My 1911 will run longer, more trouble free if run wet so I run my 10/22 the same and clean it the same.
I like the fact that the wet oil is a collector and holder of fouling and any other grit.
Should the rifle ever start to bog down or start stove piping jamming, then that’s the signal it’s time to clean the rifle, so far it hasn’t in shooting sessions lasting over 500 shots.

I have found that a quick spray of G96 Nitro solvent or M-Pro Gun Cleaner onto the fouling makes it easy to wipe out.

I tried the original “Hornady One Shot with dynamite Glide Plus HD-Extreme“ that’s what the label on my can says.
some years ago when I tried to buy more none was found on line. I called Hornady and was told the product I have was made up for the US military. The military tried it but didn’t want any more. So Hornady stoped having it made.
I was told to get Hornady One Shot with DynaGlide Plus ,without the HD-Extreme wording on the can label.
I used up the Hornady dry lube then switched to a variety of different wet gun and non gun oils plus started using a gun grease.

Now I simplified and standardized my cleaning with G96 Nitro Solvent, M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner then a cleaning plus lubing with G96 Gun Treatment aerosol spray. The G96 is a milspec CLP type product. I‘ve found that switching solvents after the first cleaning solvent patches come out clean, to a second solvent always removes more fouling.

The last cleaning is with the G96 CLP is wiped clean then an additional squirt of that oil stays on as the final wet oil lubrication. I spray the trigger group out with brake cleaner and spray CLP into it to lube. Set it aside to drip out on paper towel.

Now I add the grease. I’m not too picky when it comes to grease, they have all worked equally well.
G96 RFG grease or M-Pro 7 Synthetic Grease both look and work the same. I have even refilled one of these empty syringe applicators with Rand brand HAWG grease and it works just a well as the other two greases mentioned.
I grease the sliding surfaces of the bolt and receiver rails. The face of the hammer and back of the bolt were those two parts rub together. On the head of the hammer strut. The grease is painted on with a disposable glue applicator brush that I’ve shortened the bristles to 1/4“ to make them stiff. The grease is painted on right over the grease.
I keep that brush in a pill bottle with a ¼“ hole punched in the top for the handle to stick out.

 

where I live, Yuma AZ, wet lubes only lasts until the first gust of wind comes along, then thanks to the fine sand blowing around, that application of wet lube, becomes wet grit...in my present environment, I'll stick to dry lubes...but thank you for the story

 

I like Hornady One Shot dry lube, but I do not like the price, and I dislike NOT being able to find the “proprietary ingredient”. Does it contain teflon? Does it contain silicone? Hornady One Shot Dry Lube works pretty well for me.
https://dynaglide-technology.s3-us-...logy.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/sds/SDS-011_v10_dynaglide-plus-tool-surface.pdf

Edited to add:
I poster above uses Mobile 1. When I was at the Army Marksmanship Unit years ago, the AMU was using Mobile 1 for lubrication, and cleaning. That is when I switched to Mobile 1. However, since then, I use any 100% pure synthetic engine oil. Not many things replace a good cleaning and surface wiping with an oiled rag.

 

bullseye4845
I have used Hornady cleaner/lube (black can) on my guns, and when adding some to my Glock 17 striker, plastic tube, when replacing connector/striker, I found the next morning that the plastic had formed a bind that I had to use a wood dowel to drive out the striker. I had seen the warning about using HCL with a plastic containing styrene. It was like I had used Loctite. You may want to watch spraying on this type of plastic.
I like Amsoil Synthetic oil on my guns.

 

The reality is that a 10/22 will “run“ with just about any lube - or even without lube. Due to differences in action tolerances, finish and fit, some rifles are simply more prone to action issues than others are regardless of the lube used. A lube which works well in a Gulf Coast summer may cause significant malfunctions in an Alaskan winter. A lube which constantly jams with one brand of ammo may cause zero issues with another brand.

Threads like this solve nothing since most will use what we ”think” works best for us, while some will chase the lowest-cost option - even if it causes malfunctions. Bottom line: use whatever you want. Ford vs Chevy, KY vs Astroglide.




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Ahhhhhh but you missed the other outcome of these threads. Be it lube, cleaning agents etc.. For many this will result in more products being purchased increasing their ever growing shelf full of forum tested products! Myself included.

 

Disregard