better clear the work area. don't want moisture on anything after all that.
good luck on the trigger group. don't lose that spring i only have one extra one.

 

tom c. you cannot beat red oak for a crisp pull, the original is under lock and key! my rib's still hurt!

 

IMO these actions should be set up with a floating tang. No bedding behind the rear pillar.

 

That is Kind of what I was thinking, there is just not hardly enough there to justify it, I do want to get some bedding down around the trigger group and the sides of the stock especially around the rear pillar.

 

here's what the old guys did.

 

Tom c. if you look at my wood copy and your bedding I do not think I am that far off!

 

I don't have a mill so I am trying to do this the low buck anybody can do way and make it better! I would rather have it like yours. This is an option for people with acces to a mill, you can use your original lug and lay it on it's side and gain more bearing surface for the action.

 

looks good will probably work fine. good luck.

 

tomc's is bedded behind the tang. my old factory stock was bedded behind the tang. each did very well that way. why change what works(i have to ask that after i changed it because hind sight is 20/20)?

 

Free floating the tang also works. I have a Savage CF background and that's how you do them. After the first bedding job I did on my 40x I decided to try the floating tang set up the next time. It worked just find. Both my RF and CF 40x's now have a floating tang. Later I had a chance to check out a Calfee 40x. Floating tang, so I knew I was on the right track.

IMO once you start carving up the bedding area to inlet for the trigger you have the potential to induce stress. Look at all that solid bedding between the pillars. It's all you need or want.

 

what is the alumiunm block for? I have not seen this before, please explain and give dimentions, does this also touch the received? I am just trying to learn the correct way since I will be bedding next week. I have read other post on bedding and there is no mention of that block. This is my first and I would like to get it right the first time.
I plan on using rubber bands to hold the action tight, or black tape over paper towels. Kids funny puddy for the gaps and holes and masking tap along the stock and barrel and recol lug. clear shoe polish for release agent.

anyone with suggestions please jump in.


Semper fi
pickles

PS: it is a Suhl 150-1

 

The block is the recoil lug and it needs to be steel and it needs to be a precision fit, no slop. After I pop the action out of the hardened bedding I 'break the edges' of the slot [ in the receiver ] that the recoil lug fits into. This way the lug doesn't get shaved by a sharp edge everytime you disassemble the rifle. The top corners of the lug should also be broke [ a very slight chamfer or radius ].

I do the same thing when I bed a CF that has a lug between the bbl and the rec. After popping the action out I break all edges of the lug. This way the lug is not bearing on the delicate corners of the bedding and bedding matl doesn't get shaved off as the lug slides into place.

I basically use the technique as described over at 6BR.com re Stress Free Pillar Bedding.

 

When I did mine I decided not to use pillars, I'm thinking with only 25 inch pounds on the screws they are nice to have but not a must.. I filled the recoil lug slot in the wood with Devcon(from the factory there was plenty of slop) then re installed the steel lug. I just bedded from the trigger group about an inch forward of the receiver. I used Turtle wax car wax and moly grease for a release agent , this usually works but it stuck. I could probably get it out by heating it but it is shooting like nobodys business so it has a home until I deem it necesary to remove it. I stuck one a long time ago and ever since I put them together so the will shoot if they stick(trigger group in place with plenty of grease on it for no stick to epoxy).

 

I used Turtle wax car wax and moly grease for a release agent , this usually works but it stuck. I could probably get it out by heating it but it is shooting like nobodys business so it has a home until I deem it necesary to remove it. I stuck one a long time ago and ever since I put them together so the will shoot if they stick(trigger group in place with plenty of grease on it for no stick to epoxy).

To separate stuck bedding, if you live in Winnipeg you just leave it outside overnight in January when it is about -25F or, if you live in southern Texas turn your freezer all the way down to coldest and leave the rifle in there overnight.

You then take a soft face hammer or a two pound ball pein and a hardwood block as a pad and give the receiver ring a real good whack while prying on the stock by hand.

This seems to separate them very well.

Remember to loosen the action screws but do not remove them.

 

Sorry my progress stalled I am waiting on my new screw's from J&P well worth the wait!

 

I'll be pillar bedding my Suhl in the factory stock pretty soon as a test run before I do it with a custom stock. While the recoil lug does have some slop in it, I'm thinking a proper shim on the front should work well. I figure it's worth a shot simply because if it doesn't work out, I can have the underside milled out for an epoxy lug or even better, an aluminum bedding block with an integral lug and pillars.

Does anyone know of a source for small pieces of Delrin or some other plastic that I could cut a "trigger" out of for the bedding?

 

even better, an aluminum bedding block with an integral lug and pillars.

Like this... Sorry about the crude drawing and crappy phone picture.

I'd probably have it 1/2" thick and the pillars only as deep as the fore-end. I mis-drew it, as I realize now I would probably have the rear pillar 1/4" or so shorter than the front to accommodate the trigger guard. Screw holes would be of minimal tolerances and I would try to epoxy in a thin steel washer so the screws wouldn't be cranking down onto softer aluminum. Seems like this would be the easiest way for me to keep the original recoil lug cut, although it would be tricky to measure everything perfectly.

I bedded my Marlin like this and both the inletting and bedding was very easy... Inletting the block simply meant some time with a drill press and chisel and all I had to do for bedding was screw the block against the receiver (just like you would with pillars) with some Devcon in between and then slather the rest of the block with it and ease it into the stock. It turned out really well.

i haven't done it so i don't know but could you just take modeling clay
use the existing trigger to make an impression to make a mold then fill
up with epoxy with hardener and just make one like that? just knock the
clay off once it hardens. sounds too simple, is it? you could even drill out
the tits (don't get excited derek) for mounting on the action. good video
by the way derek.

I've tried filling the trigger area with clay before but it always makes a big mess to clean up. I think a Delrin (or whatever) block screwed into the receiver and covered with Kiwi wax would leave you with a much much cleaner and neater bedding job around the trigger area. I personally don't want to risk making a mold using the actually trigger... one mistake and *poof* I'd be SOL.

 

i haven't done it so i don't know but could you just take modeling clay
use the existing trigger to make an impression to make a mold then fill
up with epoxy with hardener and just make one like that? just knock the
clay off once it hardens. sounds too simple, is it? you could even drill out
the tits (don't get excited derek) for mounting on the action. good video
by the way derek.

 

I use modeling clay. After I pop out the action I clean up the edges with jeweler's files. Now that I have a milling machine I can do a super nice job on the area around the trigger. On the floating tang rifles there isn't much to clean up. On the otherhand the ones with an action screw at the very rear there is a lot to clean up.

 

OK! I got one more dirty deed done tonight. I set the action into the stock and Inletted it to give myself 1/8" of bedding, I also worm holed the bedding area to give it more grip and make it part of the stock!

 

what i was getting at was use the clay as a mold to pour into
with any plastic filler that hardens then peel the clay away
after it hardens and you should have a piece of material that
would work. a friend of mine uses carwax as a release agent,
he uses the 2 part epoxy you buy in parts stores fpr the bedding material i've seenit said on here a lot of people like the neutral shoe polish as
a release agent. 68 let us know how the holes work for you.

 

tom c. I forgot the easiest way to finish my trigger block. Jelly jar wax! I said this was low buck and easy! as far as drilling or worm holing the stock. I have talked to several Smith's and this is the recommended way for a wood stock. P.S. Snow sucks! we made National News tonight!

 

i'm still waiting to see tits!!!

stock looks great by the way with the worm holes for the bedding to get down into.

 

Well the wind blew in a foot of that white stuff and some J&P screw's,Might get something done today!

 

the snow i could handle. it's those bolts blowing in the wind i would hate!! have you got much more done yet? my next check i have to send don out a money order, and pick up my rifle from my smith. then it gets the finishing work done to it. ganna be a great week next week. i'm ganna try to work a full 14 day half this time. i haven't worked a full 14 day half in going on 6 years!!! i've made $1500 since saturday and still have friday - friday to go!!!! could be a great paycheck after christmas.

 

My Method of leveling the Action on a RF

I have a 'Tee' section of alum that is about 4" wide, 2" high and about 8" long. It has 2 hole drilled in one end and one hole in the other. Bolts with 2 nuts go in these holes. These bolts are how I level the alum Tee. I use a precision machinist level. The forend sits on the now level Tee.

I then take a pair of parallels and place them longitudinally on the scope dovetails on top of the rec. The precision level then sits crossways on the para's.

Do a dry run to make sure that the pillars have clearance all around. Then add the glue, stick the bbl'ed action in there and push it down until it is the depth you want. Clean off most of the excess glue and then sit the paras and the level on top of the rec and twist the bbl until the level reads the same as what the Alum Tee was set to. Come back and check it several times as the glue sets up. I leave the precision level sitting on the paras until the next day. My level is a big heavy thing. Make sure it's well centered side to side so it's weight is centered on the rec and not trying to twist it.

Be careful while all this is sitting on top of the rec as it is easy to knock it off and cause a tragedy.

I use tape wrapped around the bbl to center it in the forend channel. Don't let the bbl slope downward towards the front. If anything you would like to have a little positive incidence but having the bore be parallel to the forend is good too. You need to figure this out before adding the glue. Some forends slope and on these make the bore para to the topline of the forend. Never any downward [ to the front ] slope. This will want to make the forend jump off the front bag.

 

]i'm still waiting to see tits!!!

derek keep it up and a lump of coal in your stocking you'll
have. i'll email you some. big 'uns as al bundy would say.

 

Derek, I got her knocked out tonight, and will be cleaning her up tonight and tomorrow, Yeah I kinda felt sorry for the Mailman. Started the morning out at -8 and hit the high of 9 about 1:00 pm, suck's for working outside!

 

i'm tickled to death i'm running the engine again!!! my conducter had to work a 8500 ft train last night in the cold. i sa in a warm heated cab and took a nap until he got back there. then we check the dump feature on our e.o.t.d.(end of train device) then i naped again while he walked back to the head end. he wouldn't have had to walk like that if i hadn't bad ordered our lead unit!! it was wanting to jump up off the rails when we floated through places. our railroad is using alot of junk engines and they know it. i shop every one of them i get a chance to because they are dangerous. why our railroad makes up use engines that are dangerous is crazy.

post some pictures when you get a chace. i want to see how everything turned out for you. when i get mine back next week i'll post some pictures up for you before and after i get it back from being finished.

 

Derek
I don't speak railroad. Can you explain a FULL-14day- HALF ?
Don

 

i'm guessing a half is a half month or 2week pay period.
14 day half probably means he's worked 14 out of a half month or 14 of 15 days.
ain't nuthin' like big numbers on a paycheck gross, ain't nuthin' like the amount
of taxes you pay when they figure your pay as though you're making that
every pay. and you end up clearin' about 60-65 percent of your gross. it's worth
having a good accountant to help find every deduction you can get. like work
boots, union dues etc.