Not knowing, I would ask if your scope has a fine duplex reticle or a fine wire target reticle. It can make a difference.

From factory, I have no contact between barrel and stock on my two remaining 452 Americans. I guess that would help tighten the groups. Have a Yo Dave kit, but not installed yet.

Paul

 

try a piece or two of rubber bike inner tube at the tip of the forend instead of floating it. typically, chromoly barrels like a little pressure. the only barrels i have preferred being mostly floated (bedded close to action though) were stainless bull barrels.

 

Scope was a Leupold VX2 4-12x40 fine duplex. Not necessarily the perfect target scope but pretty serviceable for 50 yards.



That's interesting. So would you take off some of the wood and then bring it back into contact with the inner tube or leave it alone and wedge the inner tube in there.

As is I can slip a dollar bill between the barrel and stock and freely slide it from the action all the way to within 1/2" - 3/4" of the forend at which point it hits a very tight spot and the bill can not pass.

 

Many may recommend pillar and bedding the rifle, but there are some good first steps to take as you have identified before undertaking that job.

Changing the trigger spring to give a lighter trigger pull is a very good step to take when target shooting. A trigger pull of two-three pounds is not as conducive to good results as one of a pound or less, which can be achieved with the yodave kit.

What kind of scope are you using and what's its maximum magnification? More magnification is generally better for target shooting than low magnification. As UNCLE_PAULY observes, fine crosshairs are helpful.

Many shooters report better results with a front rest. Have you tried shooting the rifle from a front rest rather than a bipod? Do you have a torque driver to make sure that torques is consistently what you want it to be? Free floating the barrel may help.

 

I think that's pretty darn good for a box stock 452. I can't shoot mine quite that well, and if it was my gun, I wouldn't touch it.

But it's not my gun, and since you've already acquired some pieces parts, I think you've already decided to mod it. I think your "try one thing at a time" approach is spot on. Maybe starting with the simplest, i.e., trying different torque settings on the action screws; using different screws is not likely to affect anything regarding accuracy, so you may as well swap those while you're experimenting. It is possible that trying different torque settings and reseating the action may also give you a free float barrel. My 452 American has a free floating barrel, albeit not by much; dollar bill thin.

Looking forward to your results.

 

1/2”...bipod...light wind? Don’t touch it. It’s fine. Seriously...those groups, in those conditions, look great.

 

If you’ve done nothing at all to the rifle, I’d say those groups are pretty darn good. The J&P striker spring and action screws are good upgrades and with the right spring and shim from the YoDave kit you can have a great trigger. That will make a big difference. I think bedding to be a last resort.

 

The idea of doing a pillar and bedding job is a little intimidating so I will probably not go that route. If the rifle was shooting terribly I probably would consider it but I'm afraid my inexperience may cause more harm than good.

I do have a torque driver.

I'm thinking I'll work through in this order.

- Figure out a decent front rest and take the rifle off the bipod
- Install YoDave trigger kit and replace the action screws (but keep the torque as close to stock as I can)
- Replace striker spring
- Experiment with different torques on action screws
- Maybe free float the barrel at the forend

Right now the big challenge is finding a day when it isn't super windy, raining, snowing, etc.

Thanks for all the input.

 

I'm thinking I'll work through in this order.

- Figure out a decent front rest and take the rifle off the bipod
- Install YoDave trigger kit and replace the action screws (but keep the torque as close to stock as I can)
- Replace striker spring
- Experiment with different torques on action screws
- Maybe free float the barrel at the forend.

When I read your first post, I was going to respond "Do that list in reverse order", and "Forget the bipod, use a good set of bags".

Then I read down further, and that's exactly your plan. :t

The only one that I'd hesitate on is the free floating of the barrel. The others may help, definitely won't hurt, and can be easily undone. Floating the barrel isn't like that.

 

Buy better ammo. If you don't screw with the rifle you won't make it any worse.

 

This would be a sensible FIRST step. If you shoot bug holes with some fancy Eley ammo then …… it's the ammo.

May save yourself some time and effort. However at the same time nothing wrong with improvements to the rifle either.

 

I am using the same Leupold VX2 4-14x40mm AO scope as you. Great scope out to 100 yrds.

For best groups I am shooting while seated on a shooting bench with front and rear bags.
When shooting with bipod groups are larger for me.

When asked, I was told this:
Try torqueing action receiver screws to 25 in-lbs and work back towards 15in-lbs.
Right now I am at 20 in-lbs. with good results. Haven't tried to go lower yet.

Shooting CCI SV but have about 10 brands to try out yet.

I have been focusing on shooting off hand and standing with monopod before the artic cold moved in.

Good luck, Paul

 

How many rounds

I did a Yo Dave Kit on my American LH 452. First 800 rounds were Aguila SV and CCI and I was not pleased with the groups. Fired another 200 CCI SV and the groups got a little better. Broke out the SK STD+ and WOW what a difference. So next outing I'll try so Norma Tac 22 and SK Flat Nose Basic and compare those to my SK STD + target. I am happy with the nearly sub moa with that gun and ammo combination. But I n ed more trigger time so why not try out different ammo,. I REALLY believe that you need 800 rounds thru the barrel before questioning if the barrel is any good.

 

Gun seems to be shooting sub MOA. Yo Dave and the screws for sure, but I would be hesitant to mess with anything else.

Work your way into some "better" ammo, maybe?

My American has taking a liking to SK Magazine. Not exactly better ammo, but it is shooting like it is.

 

My groups on my 452 American improved by .35" after I got the front and rear bags and installed the yo dave red sleeve and second to smallest spring. My stock barrel was free floating from the factory. I'm torqued at 21+ front and 20- back. JP striker spring is installed as well. The Biggest improvement was switching from the 5x20x40 GS Varmint EBX scope to the T36 Weaver fine crosshair retical. I got bored at 50 yards with that set up and now only shoot it at 100 yards. The SK products shoot good, Rifle Match my favorite for a low cost round. I'm now switching the T36 to my 452 Lux and installing a 46x48 Weaver with fc 1 1/16" dot. Hoping it will help my old eyes. I have played with the torque and pillars in the front forearm everything from JB weld to 1/16" gasket material sprayed with tac glue and let it set up so no expansion or contraction can accrue after I torque. I also pull a snake after each 200 to 300rounds in the field and then clean every 1000 rounds. U have some great information here, so much more then I did when I received my 452. Try some things nothing is going to hurt your groups that I can see from this info.
good luck

 

If you really want consistently tight groups with a .22, wait for a FLAT CLAM day.

 

Okay, but not sure how this guy is gonna help me shoot any better.

 

 

Just don't confuse it with a FLAT CALM day. Search the archives for "flat clam" to find out why.

 

Try a different target with a smaller aim point besides different ammo$ and a better rest....all things done without touching the rifle for starters. JMO

 

I've just recently purchased my fourth CZ American--the first and fourth I'm keeping but two of those went to my two step sons for Christmas. Point being, I've just finished setting up four different Americans and this is what worked for me---All four had the barrels canted a little to the right, two were actually against the wood. None of the four would pass the dollar bill test. Since no gun maker puts a pressure point on the right inside of the stock on what is intended to be a fee floated barrel, the first step on all four was clean out the barrel channel with sandpaper till the barrel is not touching anywhere and is more centered in the stock channel and then seal with a couple coats of True-Oil--

Next all four got a Yo Dave trigger spring without using any of the spacers and I end up with a trigger pull of one pound to a pound and a half using the second softer spring-- All four of these guns shoot extremely well even using just two choices of the CCI Standard and CCI Mini Mags --I'm not a competition shooter, but if I get the chance to go out after pigs again either of these will hit where I aim --

I would start with these two changes and then shoot it for awhile, "season" the bore, get maybe 500 rounds downrange and then let us know how it shoots---John

 

About the only change you've listed that could adversely affect accuracy is the barrel channel. There's a good chance your barrel will shoot best with some sort of shim between it and the fore-end at some position. The current contact with the barrel channel may be helping in that respect to some degree, the challenge will be keeping it consistent from day to day.

I've used the "jaia mod" of a 5 minute epoxy pad with good results. A search will turn up the thread that outlines how to do it.
If you're already getting 50yd 1/2" groups with Standard Plus, you've got a really good shooting 452 American to begin with.

On the ammo variable, try some Rifle Match or Center X, maybe some Eley Match. If you don't mind spending more, add Midas Plus, R50 and Tenex to the list if you're curious what it will really do with top-shelf ammo. Worst case, it'll have champagne taste and shoot like a laser with Tenex.. at 60 cents a round, it's still cheaper than centre fire hand loads, but for some reason we (myself included) find that "too expensive for .22 ammo".

Your rifle may not shoot much better from a front rest than it does from a bipod, the rounded narrow fore-end doesn't lend itself particularly well to that type of shooting. A rest bag designed for sporter type rifles may help.
The wider and more stable the stance of the bipod, the better. Think along the lines of a Sinclair F-class 'pod. Try putting something slippery and soft under the bipod feet so it can move more freely and not bounce when the rifle fires.
One of the guys here uses two layers of realtor or election signs made from Cor-Plast corrugated plastic, I use a folded and stitched synthetic carpet door mat.

 

The wider and more stable the stance of the bipod, the better. Think along the lines of a Sinclair F-class 'pod. Try putting something slippery and soft under the bipod feet so it can move more freely and not bounce when the rifle fires.

Very good point, and you got my wheels turning as to something l could do to my bipod, if it works out will post some pictures.

 

This is what I did with my Harris, I have a hard time with dropping the amount Sinclair charges for the bipod I really want. I'll eventually cave in and buy one, but it'll leave a mark!
First pic is on a 452 Varmint, second is a 455 American. It doesn't fold with the large feet on it, but it's a range item for me anyway.
The last pic shows the epoxy barrel "shim" in the 452 Varmint. It's directly above the swivel stud, the idea was to reduce stock flex in that area. I did see a reduction in the vertical size of my groups as a result. If you wax the barrel channel before pouring the epoxy shim, it's removable. A slight pry with a small screwdriver and it comes off, but normal disassembly doesn't affect it.

 

I use a canoe cushion,stiff foam rubber, under my bipod, and a bunny eared rear squeeze bag.since you already have a built in front end pressure pad, I’d try one at the rear ,right where the barrel climbs out of the inletting.

Your groups are good , I wouldn’t sand out the barrel channel. Free floating is a solution for bad inletting and poor groups, neither of which seem to be your problem.

The problem I have with Caldwell rests is two fold, one they are heavy to lug around, two they generally don’t offer a consistent point for the rifle to rest. That being said, when my range buddy’s bring one I am happy to use it.

 

Wow. Big thanks to all you guys for the great information.

I think for now I'm going to use the occasional good weather day to improve on my shooting rest situation and testing some different ammo. I'll also probably go ahead with the YoDave trigger kit and replacing the action screws while I'm at it. I will hold off on doing anything with the stock free float / shimming situation for now. Thanks though, Chilly, for the details. Sounds like a great method. I may come back around to it later. I will definitely report back with any changes made and their effect on accuracy. Also, I'll be on the lookout for a flat clam or whatever.

I've been through most of the cheaper ammos already, like CCI standard and found that for the $5-$6/box and under stuff the SK Standard+ is the best by a decent margin. I also shot a couple of boxes of SK Rifle Match and the groups actually seemed to open up a bit which kind of surprised me. I assumed it was basically the same as SK Standard+ with a little higher quality control.

Most expensive ammo I currently have in my possession is a box of Eley Match but I' haven't shot any yet. I've tried Eley Target and Eley Club - both were a very noticeable step down from Standard +. I may look for sales on some of the other top shelf offerings and try a box or two just to satisfy my curiosity but as well as it seems to like the Standard+ I don't see myself buying a lot of it as I don't shoot matches.

The gun has a little over 700 rounds through it right now.

 

I also shot a couple of boxes of SK Rifle Match and the groups actually seemed to open up a bit which kind of surprised me. I assumed it was basically the same as SK Standard+ with a little higher quality control.

The first rule of rimfire is: make no assumptions about ammo performance in your rifle relative to cost of the ammo.

It is just the nature of shooting a sporter rifle without a tuner on the barrel. They can sometimes be very picky about what ammo shoots well in them. It's unlikely that you'll see a distinct improvement in performance going from SK Std + to SK Rifle Match to Center-X to Midas + to X-Act, it rarely ever follows a linear relationship. X-Act might shoot terribly in your rifle, and Center-X might out shoot Midas +. Anything is possible, all you can do is try them out and see what happens.

I'll just add that SK ammo is plenty capable of shooting the majority of groups in the 0.2's and 0.3's at 50 yards, if your rifle is capable of that performance itself. You shouldn't have to climb too far up the expensive ammo ladder to get sub 1/2" performance... But again, it all depends on the quirks of your particular barrel.

 

Regarding ammo. You will get good and bad lots of ANY ammo. So that lot of sk standard was probably more consistent than the lot of rifle match you got a hold of.
If you get the chance try some sk pistol special. Your rifle might just love it. Little bit faster.
And with all ammo just because your rifle isn't shooting well with it in these cooler temps , hang on to the ammo and shoot it when it's warmer you might be pleasantly surprised

 

Exactly right. The lot of Center X I have now is a step down in my rifle from the last batch I had. That may simply be because it's a few fps faster or slower, not that it's any "worse" quality-wise.
The better ammo becomes more apparent at longer ranges, I have a hard time seeing any difference between Standard Plus and Center X at 20 yards. At 50 it's noticeable, at 100 yards there's no mistaking which ammo I'm using.
CZs in general seem to "prefer" SK/Lapua products over Eley for some reason. My results with Eley Club were the same, not quite shotgun patterns but noticeably worse than Standard Plus even at 20 yds.
I have several boxes of Tenex I want to try, but I won't shoot that until I have nearly ideal conditions at 50 yds. Warm days with little to no wind. Flat clam, in other words .
I just picked up some CCI SV last weekend, it's not that common locally. I've never used it before, though my 455 actually shot Mini Mag hollow points quite well for high velocity ammo.
A local shop has started carrying RWS, it's on my list to try as well. Again, not commonly found here.

 

My newly acquired 452 American shoots the SK rifle match at an average of just under 1/2" at 50 yards. It shoots an average of .350" with Lapua Midas +. It does not shoot any Eley (I've tried) well. Including Tenex EPS. All I did was free float the barrel and add the lightest YoDave spring. I shoot from a front rest and rear bunny bag....indoors. Oh and I have a Sightron STac 4-20X50 with a little dot in the center of the reticle. It allows you to really aim small!

All this talk of wedging something between the stock and the barrel has me wondering if I should try that

 

I don't think I'd mess with something that shoots that well at all, although the shim is completely reversible if it doesn't work.

If you have groups that are higher than they are wide, and there's no correlation between observed muzzle velocity and the high or low shots, the shim may reduce the vertical somewhat.
If your groups are typically round, don't expect too much from the shim.
That's been my experience.