[OleFreak]

Randy’s setup (fixtures, etc.) for machining the ~ .920” counterbore on the receiver face to make it perfectly perpendicular to the receiver’s bore works from the existing receiver bore, so if the receiver’s bore is already angled then the counterbore would end up with the same angular error; unless he’s experienced enough of an increase in the number of angled bore receivers to prompt the development of new methods and/or fixtures.

 

[sicumj]

I would think measuring off the sides of the receiver a mute point. The dovetail to bore squareness is the important factor. If the barrel is touching one side of the stock channel that's an issue but that is easily remedied. Has anyone checked the accuracy of the dovetail cut to the bore, or is that molded in the casting and not cut? I know other gun manufactures remedied the issue by tapping the barrel and adding a mount. Gunsmither sounds like this thread just created a market for a do it yourself jig and mount kit.

 

[obx22]

Top of the OEM receiver is drilled and tapped. There is a little play in the scope base holes to bias the base to the right or left. If needed I suppose one could slot the holes a bit more to compensate for even more misalignment.

 

[PGT]

I just followed your sage advice. With all the money I have in this project now no need in dinking with a crappy receiver. Life is short and I'm old. I will have the Titan
in a couple of hours

That's my plan as well.

Anybody gotten Ruger to replace a bad receiver?

 

[Paddy]

Doh!

I have one of the 50th receivers as well, and yes, it's off.
No plan moving forward. I hate when this happens!!!!!

 

[SailDesign]

That's my plan as well.

Anybody gotten Ruger to replace a bad receiver?

Nope! But since my crooked beast is still doing this kind of thing at 50 yards, I think i'll just keep it. Yeah - the flyer is annoying, and it isn't completely sighted in yet, but that just gives me an excuse to keep shooting it.

Target is one that I found online and printed, so scoring rings are arbitrary, but the black is 54mm across

 

[GH41]

Crooked doesn't effect accuracy if everything you shoot is at that distance. Make a target with a simple cross hair on it then shoot it at 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 yards. You will learn quickly how crooked it is.

 

[SailDesign]

Crooked doesn't effect accuracy if everything you shoot is at that distance. Make a target with a simple cross hair on it then shoot it at 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 yards. You will learn quickly how crooked it is.

Oh, believe me, after 50-plus years shooting I know that - but from 25 to 50 yards it only takes vertical adjustment, so it looks like they may have screwed up (pun intended) the scope mount holes as well.

 

[OleFreak]

My angled bore receiver shoots to where it has the equally angled barrel pointed, no matter what the distance. I’ve compensated for all angular error using the scope’s windage and elevation adjustments such that the scope is aligned with the bore of the barrel. Ya’ll gonna have to explain all ‘bout that there sideways trajectory stuff, cause I don’t get it.

 

[obx22]

Imagine if the scope were mounted to the side of the receiver, but still higher than the bore, the fired bullet passes to one side of the line of sight on the climb upwards, then arcs down to the secondary zero. After passing through that point it continues on so that any holdover has to include windage as well.

As for someone's comment on the unimportance of bore line with the sides of the receiver:
Ever drive behind a vehicle with severe misalignment? The vehicle goes down the road with the rear tires in a different trac from the front.

You get a stock with receiver inletting and barrel inletting pretty much parallel on the sidewalls, then you put in a misaligned barrel and a scope which is somehow compensating for this error. Fine. Forget that the barrel may be riding the side of the stock near the forend tip.
During firing, the recoil track is now introducing errors all it's own.
None of these stacking errors and compensations is congruent to best accuracy.
I'm not saying it's impossible, we all get lucky sometimes, but why risk it?
Sure, it used to be "just a Ruger 10/22", but we've made it so much more.
In the "full on" accuracy game, truing a commercial bolt actions receiver, cleaning up warped dimensions, or skipping it and buying a custom receiver is common practice. We don't always look at autoloaders that same way. Wonder why?
Fate favors the prepared.

 

[OleFreak]

If the impacts of projectiles fired from an angled barrel all form into a tiny cluster about the aiming point on a target at no matter what the distance to the target, the shooter's line of sight from his eyeball passing through the cross-hairs and on to the aiming point is the only other straight line involved here, and having been adjusted to compensate for the receiver bore's angular error, the cross-hairs are not on the scope body's centerline.

The barrel's bore centerline will be angled upwards to compensate for the affects of gravity on the trajectory of the projectile, but the bore will be otherwise pointed directly towards the target unless the shooter is holding off in compensating for the affects of the winds. If the angled bore receiver is not canted but being held perfectly level side to side, and if the cross-hairs and breach face are both at the same distance from the shooter's eye, then the cross-hairs in having been adjusted to compensate for the receiver's angular error will have been placed directly over the barrel's bore centerline, and the only offset is from the scope's center.

If the angled bore receiver is still not canted but the cross-hairs and breach face are not both at the same distance from the shooter's eye, then the shooter's line of sight will be offset to the side of the barrel's bore centerline but by only thousandths of an inch, so little an offset it means absolutely nutin, no matter what the distance to the target.

 

[sicumj]

That is not correct. If the scope and bore are not parralel the poi will intersect only at that distance. It will shoot to one side at closer distances and will shoot to the other side further out. If you align two lasers side by side at a point on a wall 20 ft away they will not align if you check the beams at 10 ft and they will not align exactly opposite 30 ft. I have three 10-22's and all show no apparent canting and shoot well and I agree that a few thousandths off will not create a problem at 22 distances. But what is discussed and shown on this thread is extreme and only two fixes exist for this issue. Realign barrel to receiver or mount the scope to the barrel.

 

[SailDesign]

That is not correct.
<snip truth>
But what is discussed and shown on this thread is extreme and only two fixes exist for this issue. Realign barrel to receiver or mount the scope to the barrel.

Or get used to it and remember to adjust transversely as well as vertically if needed.

 

[GH41]

That is not correct. If the scope and bore are not parralel the poi will intersect only at that distance. It will shoot to one side at closer distances and will shoot to the other side further out. If you align two lasers side by side at a point on a wall 20 ft away they will not align if you check the beams at 10 ft and they will not align exactly opposite 30 ft. I have three 10-22's and all show no apparent canting and shoot well and I agree that a few thousandths off will not create a problem at 22 distances. But what is discussed and shown on this thread is extreme and only two fixes exist for this issue. Realign barrel to receiver or mount the scope to the barrel.

You are correct and he is smoking crack! Using his logic you could rotate the rifle 90 degrees and it would shoot the same place it did when upright.

 

[OleFreak]

I’ve had an extreme example, that is, an angled receiver bore what points the barrel both left and low ~ 30 moa is extreme enough to irritate me, now for nearly a decade. After wasting a healthy portion of the scope’s windage and elevation adjustment range just to park the crosshairs such that the vertical of the pair centers my line of sight both directly over and along the barrel’s bore center, it’ll place impacts (Fred’s sporter contour) about the aiming point at any distance I decide to dial it in on using only the scope’s elevation adjustments, its windage adjustment hasn’t been touched since this scope’s initial ‘zero in’ session. It’s a Vortex Diamondback 2-7x35mm ‘Rimfire’ version, fixed parallax free at fifty yards but nutin magical about any of it.

 

['ol shooter]

Kind of like W.C. Fields trick pool cue, only he could shoot pool with it. I have a 1979 receiver, that I have had two factory barrels on before I realized it was the receiver. I have Tech sights on it, and the adjustment ran out, and it was still shooting three inches left at 25 yards. The cure ended up being a Gunsmither block, careful adjustment of the barrel, followed by 242 Loctite. Nice and centered now.

 

[SailDesign]

Kind of like W.C. Fields trick pool cue, only he could shoot pool with it. I have a 1979 receiver, that I have had two factory barrels on before I realized it was the receiver. I have Tech sights on it, and the adjustment ran out, and it was still shooting three inches left at 25 yards. The cure ended up being a Gunsmither block, careful adjustment of the barrel, followed by 242 Loctite. Nice and centered now.

Interesting. Will have to try that. Thanks!

 

['ol shooter]

Interesting. Will have to try that. Thanks!

The way I did it was to first file the barrel and use the Gunsmither block, so I could clock the barrel to where the sights were centered. There was still plenty of extractor slot clearance, so that was not an issue. Once I got the barrel where I needed it, I marked it so I could put it back in the correct spot. Then, I cleaned the receiver hole, barrel shank, and applied Loctite 242 to both. I stood the receiver upright, so the barrel would seat completely against the receiver without gravity interfering. I lined up the marks, and tightened the Gunsmither block just finger tight, barely, so the barrel would rest against the receiver as squarely as possible. I let it cure overnight, and though 242 is not a cylindrical bonding agent like 620, which I also have used, it provides enough hold that you can't pull the barrel out by hand. If you want to remove the barrel, a couple sharp whacks against the receiver on either side of the receiver where the barrel inserts with a soft rubber faced hammer will jar it loose. If you are going for a more permanent fix, use the 620, which will have to be heated in an oven to soften enough to remove the barrel. I used the 620 on a loose fitting Tac-Sol barrel, and it worked fine.

 

[SailDesign]

Thanks again!

 

[OleFreak]

Being’s jus an ol’ crack head, I evidently done figgered all dis crooked receiver stuff wrong. Ya’ll gonna have to explain it to me once again, what exactly it is going on inside a scope whilst folk be cranking on the thing’s windage knob, and what affect moving dat stuff inside the scope is gonna have on the shooter’s line of sight?