[deadwood83]

yeah he really does minus jointer and machinist square oh and I almost forgot the planer... maybe this means a visit to Home Depot...:heartpump

 

[Hipshot]

Oli, this is an excellent thread. Thanks for taking the time to photograph all your setups and posting this how-to. It sure answers a lot of questions I had about inletting a blank.

Yes Squawsach this is just what I've been looking for.

Mike, I'm not ready to give up my glue just yet, but learning to inlet a blank is definitely on my learn-to-do list.

 

[29897]

yeah he really does minus jointer and machinist square oh and I almost forgot the planer... maybe this means a visit to Home Depot...:heartpump

If you don't have a joiner and or planer of your own many places that sell high quality hard wood will laminate/glue together the wood of your choice (including the planing parocess) and run the wood through a joiner for a small fee. I've done this for other projects.

 

[Vibe]

Well I've got a bunch of Bradford pear (200+ board foot) that all got cut to 1" and 5/4. But some of it has got some killer figure to it - this gives me a lot of ideas toward regaining a stock blank (or eight) from it.

 

[Markbo]

Er De norsk eller Svensk Oli?

This is really an exceedingly good how-to. One of the best I have ever seen on RFC and I nominate this to be a sticky. I will report it to Admin and see what they say.

Oli, you could sell those cutouts by the dozens. This may only cost me $100 in wood, but it is going to cost me $2000 in tools!!

Seriously though, since you obviously have all the tools, can you possibly make suggestions for all those 1,000's here that do not like AndyW suggested?

I don't see any way to do it without a router, but you could cut the stock out after it's all planed and squared with a jugsaw even. Wouldn't be as smooth but it could be done.

I sure look forward to seeing how you did all the detail wood!

Good job! :t :t :t
Mark

 

[oli]

Thank you all for the nice comments!

Is there anything you would change on this one?

Squawsach, yes, if I could go back, I would probably let the hump and top of foreend in walnut. A big wood chunk disapeared while cutting this portion, forcing me to find an alternative way... birch. It look ok but I would have prefered to keep only walnut.

Er De norsk eller Svensk Oli? [...] Seriously though, since you obviously have all the tools, can you possibly make suggestions for all those 1,000's here that do not like AndyW suggested?

Markbo, what language is this? Swede? I honestly didnt thought about selling stocks like this one. While it can appear fast and easy to build one, it actually take a lot of time... maybee is it because it was my first, I had to build jigs and think what operations will come first, but I could not imagine a reasonable price for this work. I like to work with wood, this is a hobby for me, but I dont have the capacity to compete with company who build thousands of stocks every days with 3 axis machinery and high tech devices...

I intended this tread for thoses of you who wants to create their own stock, to give back to this nice community for all the things I learned here.

So here it is, last part, completing the stock.

Now than the inletting is completed, everybody will probably head for differents ways to complete their build. I will show you how I finished mine, but there is a lot of other alternatives. One can go anschultz, one can go classic, I decided to do a thumbhole.

With a 2" hole saw, drill a hole near the grip (this is subjective, the size of hole can change, as the position, depending of the size of hand)

Now the sahping begin. Use a lot of sharp chisels, go slowly and always compare both side of the stock if you go ambidextrous. First picture shows the tools I used for this step.

This 1" gouge knive was very handy around the thumbhole.

Once this is done, sand smooth with 80 or 100 grit paper

I used a drawknive to round the butt of the stock, it worked very well in my opinion. Sand smooth after again... sandsandsand

 

[deadwood83]

Er De norsk eller Svensk Oli?

Ahhhh Norway. Jeez and I was about to guess Germany or France!:shakehead

 

[oli]

for the recoil pad, I simply used a small layer of mahogany and some birch. I glued them one at a time ovet the stock and then sanded it flush with the stock.

Here you can see the contrast I wanted with true oil on wood

I installed a pillar for glass beding (thanks to Mknarr for his very good instructions in tips and tricks)

 

[oli]

for the barell channel, I used a 7/8" round bit on a router table. go progressively, always check with the barelled action for the correct depth. make a pass on both sides of the stock, as the 7/8" will have to be enlarged to .920" at least, by going in both side, you keep your symmetry.

[IMGhttps://imgur.com/blg21Ra.jpg[/IMG]

Finally, I used a 1/4" flutted router bit to do the vent hole on forearm.

to complete the stock, I simply cutted the forearm at a 6 deg angle and I used a rounding bit to smooth the place where the hand grip the stock.

There you go, I hope you enjoyed reading and seeing this as much as I enjoyed reading on this entire nice site. Feel free to ask me questions about unclear sections, I will gladly answer! Thank you everyone.

Olivier Gagnon

 

[Markbo]

Ah... Bonsoir Monsieur Gagnon.

When I said you should sell them, I meant the cut outs and jigs... the patters. Not the completed stocks. Those that want to try their hand at inletting without all the tools that you have would definitely benefit from having accurate patterns to copy from.

Shoot.... now I gotta get a router and table. :shakehead

 

[deadwood83]

Markbo if you don't have a tablesaw, Ryobi has tablesaws with cheap add-ons that double for miter gauges and router tables all in one. We picked one up while cleaning out my uncle's house. Sadly he didn't have a jointer or a fancy planer like that. Nor did he have a bandsaw which is odd. Luckliy i'm welcome to my 6th grade math teacher's house. He's a nice guy who lets his former students use his tools.


Ohhhh and I forgot that you can rent tools from Home Depot. They probably have one!

 

[mscales5]

Actually, table saws and planers are pretty cheap now. Harbor Frieght has 12" planers for about $100 and table saws are not much more. You can also buy used table saws for cheap and that is really the way to go. If you are will to do the work you can buy the tools for not much more then what a stock or 2 will cost you and when your done you still have the tools.

oli, the set up and jig making is the hardest part. I spend more time by far thinking about "how to" and "in what order" then actually doing it. Markbo was talking about you selling some of the jigs for inletting. Once you have a pattern made it is easy to make a few more to sell off to others wanting to make a stock. Just a thought.

 

[deadwood83]

I'm thinkin that the jig measurements and the carbine stock patterns would be the most helpful. People usually want to make something unique and the carbine pattern is the best starting point in my opinion because then they have a very very very basic design to work off of.

I know i'd pay $20 USD plus international shipping for a carbine stock pattern. Go to Kinko's or hang it on the wall and you've got what you need to make your pattern.

 

[19341]

Great Job

Looks easy but I know its very hard to do,

Look Very Nice.......:t

 

[markdperkins]

I installed a pillar for glass bedding (thanks to Mknarr for his very good instructions in tips and tricks)

What kind of pillar, and where did you get yours? I used to have a local supplier of lamp ferrules but they no longer keep them in stock...just need half a dozen if anyone can suggest a supplier?

 

[oli]

What kind of pillar, and where did you get yours? I used to have a local supplier of lamp ferrules but they no longer keep them in stock...just need half a dozen if anyone can suggest a supplier?

Hello, I simply rounded a nut by grinding, and then glued it to a washer. I did not found any supplier for that kind of hardware. You could also use the female part of a T-nut, cheap and available everywhere.
Sorry, I dont have a better pic of my pillar.

I did not wanted to pay 25$ for the vq bedding kit... too expensive for a washer and a little piece of padding imho.

Oli

 

[Markbo]

Mark, I got bags full of different stuff to try out from Lowe's and Ace Hardware. Home Depot has the worst selection for anything non nail or wood/ drywall screw related.

I have found by experimenting with different nut, washer, ferrules that the best (read easiest and effective) is the insert like in that pic above. A key is getting everything centered. More effective is a 1/16" piece of aluminum 1"x2" inset into the inletting with a hole drilled in the right place beforehand.

As you can tell by that pic the indent in the inletting is slightly off. With the estucheon firmly epoxied in place, the key is allow the screw to go from it to the receiver trunion without touching anything else, including the insert/pillar. Getting it lined up is trial and error but one trick I have used to keep the epoxy channel open is to inset a small length of soda straw. This creates a clean hole for the screw to travel through and it is easily removable after drying.

Sorry - I don't mean to tell you a bunch of stuff you already know, but I though others might be interested in all that other stuff.

 

[KY Ratshooter]

Lamp furreles are available in the lighting dept of Lowes and HD, if you want brass. These fittings are simply brass tube with a 1/4" pipethread. That means a 1/4" threaded pipe is the same thing only iron. Start looking in the electrical and plumbing depts rather than the fasteners and fittings section. skip the racks and go straight for the cabinets with trays and compartments filled with goodies. They have a whole wall full of brass plumbing parts you can sort through.

I worked part time in an old fasioned hardware store a while back. You guys really should find some mom and pop operation for these needs. They usually have trays and trays in wall racks, just waiting for us Rube Goldburgs to come along.

 

[Vincent]

Many Ace Hardwares have the ferrules. I sent Mark two 6" pieces. On most factory carbines you only need .6". I am doing three of them this week. One was .590" second was .600" and the third was .610" long. I make them so they bottom out on the factory escuctheon and are flush with inside of stock. Then, when it come time to Glass bed. the depth is already set for how deep the action sits in the stock, Dremel out wood around the pillar and fill with glass bedding. That is one way to do it.....there are many.

 

[markdperkins]

Thanks again Vincent!