When its in the 1/2 open position you press the bolt release lever in front of the triggerguard to make the bolt slam foward.If this doesn't work,put a cleaning rod down the barrel and gently tap it out.Did you fire the gun without any rounds in it ?This is called dry firing.Not good for rimfires.
Doing this will cause a burr on the chamber where the round goes into the barrel.You should be able to insert a round into the gun and take it out with your fingernail.If not,you may have a burr.To remove a burr,you can peen it with a small punch,or if you don't feel comfortable doing this take it to a qualified gunsmith in your area you can trust.Or,being it's a new gun send it back to Marlin for warrenty repair.

 

Be careful. I myself would never put a round into the chamber at home, incase anything like this happened. I wouldn't snap the bolt shut, in case the firing pin ever hit the rim. You wouldn't want that happening in your house.

As said, try getting a cleaning rod and pusing it out that way.

 

ken is right here, release the bolt hold open lever, to let it go all the way forward. then you should be able to extract.

 

It won't extract by normal means. I've hit the bolt release lever and its slammed forward, and I've pulled the action back and it doesn't come out. It will just go back into the 1/2 open position. I guess I'll try to tap it out with the rod. Is this a normal thing to have happened with a brand new gun? Thanks for the help.

 

It won't extract by normal means. I've hit the bolt release lever and its slammed forward, and I've pulled the action back and it doesn't come out. It will just go back into the 1/2 open position. I guess I'll try to tap it out with the rod. Is this a normal thing to have happened with a brand new gun? Thanks for the help.

How well did you clean it before trying this? If you did not scrub out the preservative and excess lubricant that many new guns have, that could easily explain the issues.

Are you using live rounds or action testing dummies? If you aren't where you can shoot it and you are using live rounds, you might want to reconsider that as it is a safety issue. It sure would suck to discover that you had a firing pin stuck in a forward position while doing that If you are using action testing dummy rounds, you might want to check that they are not out of spec and thus unable to be grabbed by the extractor.

 

Hrm, Well I was using live rounds. I figured after doing this it wouldn't be a good idea. Although I was doing it where if it did go off, noone would get hurt, the fact is I still don't want a bullet flying through my house.

Also, I have to clean the gun before I use it? I love how the manual does not mention this at all, and neither did the people who sold the gun to me at the gun shop. I did however buy a cleaning kit, and was planning on cleaning the rifle after 250 shots or so (as per the manuel)

 

Vex. Open the bolt lock it back, Take a cleaning rod and lower it down the barrel gently onto the bullet, then with the rifle carefully propped up tap the rod gently with a stick or similar to push the bullet backwards and out, don't tap hard as you can expand the lead and lock it in place. These are rimfires so avoid playing around w/ the rim (ie prying at it w/ a screwdriver)

you have to be real careful as no one wants vex to be done at #3 post.

Now, on semi automatic 22's there are a few parts to ejection. On the bolt there is the extractor, and then there's the ejector.

When you fire your rifle the force of the bullet leaving pushing the case out of the barrel, pushes the bolt back and as it hits the ejector the case gets thrown out.

The extractor does 2 things. 1. it controls the case as the bolt moves back so that the case doesn't bounce around and stay in the action, the case is thrown from the rifle as it hits the ejector and pivots around the rim at the extractor.
2. to unload not spent rounds.

Now depending on the rifle it may be impossible to remove a live round particularly on match .22's where closing the action on the round drives the soft lead into the rifling and engraves the bullet w/ the rifling marks, its that tight.

On a typical .22 semi like a marlin it shouldn't be that tight, but there are a few potential issues.

1. Grease. Rifles are made of steel, steel rusts. To prevent any of this while the gun is in transport (hot cold hot cold condensation moisture in the air etc.) they pack the gun w/ a rather gross grease that needs to be removed for proper function. Luckily on USA guns this isn't so bad, get some bore cleaner and clean it out really well, then start it with just a slight film of lube on the bolt surfaces and the bore wiped out.
2. Reamers, the chamber of the barrel is cut by a reamer which is sort of like a precision drill bit, but with scrapers on it not spirals. Reamers are made of a harder substance than steel, typically something along the lines of carbide.

But like anything the heat of drilling dulls and shrinks reamers as they are used, so there is a tolerence. ie. The tightest you can go and the loosest you can go and still call it a 22 LR chamber. The factory starts a new/sharp reamer and goes at a batch of barrels, along the line a barrel will start out with the full diameter biggest chamber they can get, and then it will get slightly worn and eventually the reamer gets pulled from the line as its chambers would be too small.

Its possible that yours has a chamber that is pretty tight/small, and that out of a batch of 50 bulk cheap rounds you found one slightly larger than it should have been round...

What do I think is likely...
1. Clean it, its probably gross.
2. Never ever ever ever, load a live round into a firearm unless you fully intend to fire it. If you are hunting and you end up with a round you didn't fire that's life, but to have them loaded in your house is trouble. Had you been at a range I'd bet you'd load that round, fire. and the case would land in a pile with the rest of them, you'd never be any the wiser.

 

Vex. Open the bolt lock it back, Take a cleaning rod and lower it down the barrel gently onto the bullet, then with the rifle carefully propped up tap the rod gently with a stick or similar to push the bullet backwards and out, don't tap hard as you can expand the lead and lock it in place. These are rimfires so avoid playing around w/ the rim (ie prying at it w/ a screwdriver)

you have to be real careful as no one wants vex to be done at #3 post.

Now, on semi automatic 22's there are a few parts to ejection. On the bolt there is the extractor, and then there's the ejector.

When you fire your rifle the force of the bullet leaving pushing the case out of the barrel, pushes the bolt back and as it hits the ejector the case gets thrown out.

The extractor does 2 things. 1. it controls the case as the bolt moves back so that the case doesn't bounce around and stay in the action, the case is thrown from the rifle as it hits the ejector and pivots around the rim at the extractor.
2. to unload not spent rounds.

Now depending on the rifle it may be impossible to remove a live round particularly on match .22's where closing the action on the round drives the soft lead into the rifling and engraves the bullet w/ the rifling marks, its that tight.

On a typical .22 semi like a marlin it shouldn't be that tight, but there are a few potential issues.

1. Grease. Rifles are made of steel, steel rusts. To prevent any of this while the gun is in transport (hot cold hot cold condensation moisture in the air etc.) they pack the gun w/ a rather gross grease that needs to be removed for proper function. Luckily on USA guns this isn't so bad, get some bore cleaner and clean it out really well, then start it with just a slight film of lube on the bolt surfaces and the bore wiped out.
2. Reamers, the chamber of the barrel is cut by a reamer which is sort of like a precision drill bit, but with scrapers on it not spirals. Reamers are made of a harder substance than steel, typically something along the lines of carbide.

But like anything the heat of drilling dulls and shrinks reamers as they are used, so there is a tolerence. ie. The tightest you can go and the loosest you can go and still call it a 22 LR chamber. The factory starts a new/sharp reamer and goes at a batch of barrels, along the line a barrel will start out with the full diameter biggest chamber they can get, and then it will get slightly worn and eventually the reamer gets pulled from the line as its chambers would be too small.

Its possible that yours has a chamber that is pretty tight/small, and that out of a batch of 50 bulk cheap rounds you found one slightly larger than it should have been round...

What do I think is likely...
1. Clean it, its probably gross.
2. Never ever ever ever, load a live round into a firearm unless you fully intend to fire it. If you are hunting and you end up with a round you didn't fire that's life, but to have them loaded in your house is trouble. Had you been at a range I'd bet you'd load that round, fire. and the case would land in a pile with the rest of them, you'd never be any the wiser.

I took the advice previously given, and gently tapped the round out of the chamber without incident thankfully. When I get to the range, I'll clean out the rifle before shooting it.

Also off topic, but the *******s at the shop sold me 4 different brands of ammo, one of them being super velocity (the type it says not to use in the instruction manual)

Although I am not going to try to use it, what would happen if I was to use that ammo? Damage to the gun? Damage to my self?

Thanks for all the help guys...

 

Those super velocity rounds are kind of bogus, one type "stingers" use a case that is longer than a standard case with a bullet that's not quite as long, to get more power and speed.

They can generate a bit much bolt speed and that causes trouble. Not going to be catastrophic but not great.

Plus they're not going to be very accurate, the rate of twist of your rifling is going to be for standard velocity .22's, not sub sonic, or hypervelocity.

Really those supervelocities might not hurt anything, but why risk it.

 

Good point. Yeah, the ones I have are "Stingers" Look like nice bullets though Anyway, I appreciate everyones help. Very informative!

 

pocket knife

I use a thin bladed pocket knife to get empty shell that do not extract.
Sometime cycling the bolt a few times works sometimes it does not.
I have never had one the pocket knife would not pop out sounds like that would be a bigger problem then a dirty chamber. Mine does this when I shoot 500 rounds of bulk ammo without cleaning (every other sunday)

 

Also off topic, but the *******s at the shop sold me 4 different brands of ammo, one of them being super velocity (the type it says not to use in the instruction manual)

By this statement I suspect you have a Bentz chamber. The Stingers are of a different length/diameter and could stick in an already tight chamber. Like the book says...don't use them.

 

to be honest with you, the hyper velocity stuff usually doesnt group too well in a host of guns. i have tried to get many hypers to group well in my super accurate mod 60, they just wont do it. high vels are fine , though.

 

to be honest with you, the hyper velocity stuff usually doesnt group too well in a host of guns. i have tried to get many hypers to group well in my super accurate mod 60, they just wont do it. high vels are fine , though.

Yeah, my mistake, Hyper Velocity is what it says not to use. Too bad, they look pretty badass

 

I personally like the CCI Minimags in the model 60.For me they shoot well.

 

I love how the manual does not mention [cleaning before use] at all, and neither did the people who sold the gun to me at the gun shop. I did however buy a cleaning kit, and was planning on cleaning the rifle after 250 shots or so (as per the manuel)

That happened to me with another gun (not a Marlin). I superficially wiped it out, and was going to follow the manual directions and deep clean it after about 250 rounds.

My godson gave me a recent article that says most guns are full of thick oily crud when they are new and need to be deep-cleaned before the first use. Now I clean it well and use the teflon spray (according to directions), too. I also pull a boresnake through it and wipe out the chamber and magazine lips with a patch as soon as I finish shooting while it's still hot.

 

Plus they're not going to be very accurate, the rate of twist of your rifling is going to be for standard velocity .22's, not sub sonic, or hypervelocity.

Really those supervelocities might not hurt anything, but why risk it.

The accuracy of the hyper v's depends on the gun. The Aguila Hypervelocities shoot great in certain guns and are an awesome hunting round. Last thing I hit was a skunk quartering away at 75 - 80 yards; the impact rolled it a couple of times and then it laid real still.

But, as much as I like them in my finnfire I also don't use them in any of my semi auto's, rifle or pistol.

Also, there is another thread about using them in semi autos.