instead of chopping it, why don't you see if you can get a spacer for it, like when we put 77/22 barrels on our 10/22. unless of course the extractor does not line up.

 

ShelbyFan
I know absolutely nothing about the 77/22 and I've been trying to find info on the net and not finding what I need. Is the tenon section of the bbl that goes into the receiver longer on the 77/22 than the 10/22, if so do you know the specs? The tenon needs to slide into the Savage receiver 1.25" to mate with the bolt. I will need to cut a groove 180deg. opposite the extractor for the Savage bolt's cartridge guide.
Thanks

 

AAAAHHHHH, HEADACHE, to much math.

Yes, the 77/xx is longer than the 10/22, by, I would guess about 3/16, so R/T sells spacer kits, R/T spacer kit, so if you could find the exact dimensions of the 10/22 barrel vs. your savage barrel you might be able to make a kit for it. However, I think your way might produce better results and you can get a tighter, custom chamber.

Out of curiosity will the vblock hold down be a problem?

this seems like a cool idea and have thought of it myself.

You also might consider having your Savage barrel accurized, Savage uses the same barrels as the Anschutz and they are as good if not better than the GM barrels. Unless of course you have the pencil barrel then what I said means nothing.

 

".....Savage uses the same barrels as the Anschutz........."
Really? I never heard that before. By this do you mean they will accept the same barrells, or the savage barrells are the same ones that they use? I know I can attest to accuracy, my Mako shoots excellent:bthumb:

 

I believe they use the same blanks. Whether or not they are the same exact barrels I would say probably not as Anschutz puts a much higher standard and specs on their rifles. I was at one time trying to find out it a Annie barrel was a direct bolt on to the Savage, cut that would rock.
Savage and Anschutz have a long history, Annie even stole the magazine design and use it on their current rifles

 

My understanding was that the old Savage rimfires (sometime prior to 1994 or so) were made by Anschutz and Savage just put their name on them. This is similar to what Weatherby does now with the XXII model. However in 1994 or so, Savage bought the Canadian company called Lakefield Arms located in Lake Field, Ontario, Canada. I believe the current gun and barrels are made in Canada in the old Lakefield factory. The stocks at least on some models may come from the US. About the only part that Savage has influenced is the trigger. They came up with an Accutrigger version which is based on but not the same as the Accutrigger in the Savage centerfire.

I could be wrong on this, but this is what I pieced together a while back. Apparantly there are still aftermarket (Brownells?) magazines sold for the Savage rimfires that fit the Anschutz (and are much lower in cost). However I can tell you from first had experience the Anschutz and modern Savage (Lakefield) magazines are not interchangeable.

Ron

 

Is this what you are trying to do? Fluted 10/22 barrel fitted to lefty Savage.

 

David E., That is just too neat. I have a 93GL that I would love too put a TacSol barrel on. If it is not much trouble could you tell me what all was involved with that conversion. I have access to a friends shop and would like to convert my 93 like that. THB

 

Something along those lines, yes. That looks good! How difficult to get the barrel out and what did you have to do to fit the new one?

Thanks,
Tony

 

Something along those lines, yes. That looks good! How difficult to get the barrel out and what did you have to do to fit the new one?

Thanks,
Tony

Had to buy my machinist buddy several adult beverages when we finished!

Barrel removal was fairly easy. Knocked out the pin holding the barrel and using a wooden dowel and a BFH (big f'ing hammer) drove the original barrel out from the breech end. It was a tight slip fit. Not a press fit. I no longer have my notes, but we moved the shoulder forward, and reduced the shank diameter very slightly on the replacement 10/22 barrel. You need to cut or file another notch in the breech end of the 10/22 barrel for the extractors in the bolt. 77/22 barrels would work better. It went right together with some Locktite for bearing mounting. Need to check your headspace if you do this. Still haven't been to the range to see how it shoots, but it seems to function OK so far.

 

Thanks David. Doesn't sound too difficult and I could get the needed dimensions from the barrel I remove. My machinist buddy will probably go for a couple adult beverages too. :t

And if I can just sell enough junk between now and Christmas to get the rifle it looks like next year will be a lot of fun.

Tony

 

Please keep us updated...I really want to see what it takes to do this.

 

Dave

I don't any thing about the Ruger barrels.
You said the 77/22 barrels would fit better.
Could you explain.

Larry

 

Larry, I believe I said it would "work" better. It still has to be fitted. 77/22 barrels already have 2 cutouts for the extractors in bolt action rifles. 10/22 barrels only have one extractor cutout. 77/22 barrels have a bit longer tenon so you don't have to move the shoulder forward. Just check your headspace. It is not just a drop in any way you go after it.

 

not to steal the thread , but wouldn't it be neat if savage could come up with something similar to their barrel-collar attachment system as used on their center-fire rifles ; for their rimfires ? don't know if it would be workable ; just day-dreaming ?!

 

Dave
Do you have the specs on the tenon length of the 77/22? I like the idea of already having both extractor grooves cut. Thank you.

 

I measured my 77/22 barrel this weekend, the tenon length was .875. My 10/22 barrel is .750. Give or take a .001 or two on each, I just used depth measurement with a set of calipers. The diameter was .6855 - .6875. Again, with calipers.

Could you tell me what the diameter and length is on the Savage barrel? It will take time but I'm really looking forward to building this rifle for my son, he's really enjoying shooting. So's my daughter.

Tony

PS...Yes, Savagenut, it surely would...

 

Guys, I no longer have my notes so I can't give ya any specific measurements. Sorry.

----------
David E.

 

Well 110, I measured my Ruger barrels and gave you the dimensions. Think you could help me out and tell what the measurements are on the Savage barrel? Sure would like to know.

Tony

 

Sorry. I've been crazy busy. The tenon diameter is approx .687" and approx. 1.25" long. I'm getting close with the stock 10/22 bbl as a test before I spend $$$$. It's slow by hand as I want the fit tap-in-snug then I'll pin it. The nice thing is the head space in in the bolt so I'll be able to tap the bbl in with the bolt closed and it should be good to go.:bthumb:

 

In theory would this barrel fitting work on a factory taper MKII with the dovetailed receiver if you added a heavy barrel stock? Did you have to float the barrel a little more with the 10/22 barrel? I thought they had a larger OD than the MKII heavy barrel.

 

Yes Adam the stock does have to be modified to clear the fatter 10/22 barrel. Even the heavy barrel stock needs to be clearanced. It takes a little effort, but I think the end result is worth it.

I finally got to the range with this outfit. I just wanted to check function mainly. It worked just as it is supposed to. No failure to feed, fire or failure to eject. I was shooting Wolf match target, handheld with elbows on an unstable table. Shooting 75 yards, I was getting 1.5" to 1.75" five shot groups. I am happy for now. I want to really get my rest out and try it. I know a SSS stock is in my future (tax refund) and with proper bedding I think this will really perform. :bthumb:

 

Thanks a bunch. Let me/us know how the drill and pin goes. And good luck. Hope it goes real smooth.

Tony

 

So it wont hurt if the barrel shank OD on the 10/22 is a couple thousands,.002,smaller than the savage barrel? It appears the 10/22 barrel shank is around .685-.686ish.

 

No pictures yet David. Been a little under the weather this week and haven't gotten anything done except work. My kids are here this weekend so can't work on it now. I plan on knocking the barrel out Monday morning and talked to my friend with the lathe today. He's going to do any turning needed and will do it next week if I can get it to him.

I don't have the measurements in front of me, they're in the basement, but I'm pretty sure the shank/tenon diameter on the GM barrel is .6872. I used mics this time. Don't hold me to that, I could be remembering wrong. I'll post the correct dimension tomorrow(later today). The length was around 1.125 on a 77/22 barrel and a 10/22 is .875, give or take a couple thousandths. So that means the shoulder will have to be set back in the neighborhood of .125 or .375 respectively and maybe a couple thou from the diameter. LocTite 609 is what has been recommended for the glue in and evidently it's good for up to .010 clearance so a snug slip fit should be ok.

I'll know for sure once I get the rifle apart and will post the measurements here. I'm not going to show the completed rifle until after I give it to my son which will be Christmas but once I get the barrel in the action I'll post some pics.

Tony

 

I was measuring a factory 10/22 barrel. A GM,TacSol, or other after market barrel will be a little over sized.

 

I received my GM bbl last week and am now in the final process of hand fitting the bbl to the receiver. All work has been done with flies, emery cloth(very slow I know) and mic., as I have no access to machines and can't pay the 'smith prices. Should be done today, I hope.:bthumb:

 

110FLPShooter, I hope everything turns out well!

Worked on mine today. Was going to wait till the morning but got impatient. I took the action out of the stock and then pulled the mag well, ejector and trigger housing. Bolt too of course. Then drove out the cross pin, takes a .125 punch. Since I didn't have a piece of brass rod small enough to fit in the receiver I just used an old 3/8 extension and a couple lead .44 bullets. I set the nose of one SWC bullet in the open end of the extension and gave it a few taps against the barrel to form it. Wasn't really a thick enough layer of lead to protect the barrel so I set another bullet on the breech and started tapping away. Once it spread out I started alternating between hitting the extension and my wrist/arm. Be sure you wear some heavy gloves when you do this. Not just because you might miss with the hammer but because there are some sharp edges on the receiver. So, after a half hour or so of beating the crap out of it with the biggest hammer I had short of a sledge, the barrel finally popped out! Hoooray!

The lead flaked some inside the receiver, easy to clean out. It filled the chamber and extractor slots on the breech of the barrel but that was easy to remove too so the barrel's in good shape if for whatever reason we decide to put it back on. Here's a few pictures:

I was out in left field with the dimensions I stated in my last post. At least as far as the tenon/shank length. I have been sick the last week and haven't quite been myself. Anyways, the mic'd diameter of the tenon is as follows:

1. Factory Savage barrel is .6877"
2. Factory Ruger SS Sporter is .6866"
3. GM Bull barrel is .6883"

The factory Ruger barrel will begin to slip into the receiver and probably wouldn't take much polishing to slip into place. The GM barrel is just .0017 larger so again, won't take much for the dia. to fit.

The tenon/shank on the factory Savage barrel is 1.252-1.254" and on the Ruger and GM barrel it's .875 so the shoulder will have to be set back .377-.379. That's just approximate because I measured them with a caliper. I'll have to use depth mics from work to be sure. But this is one area I'm not completely certain about. The bolt handle is the only locking lug and is pushed against the rear of it's slot when closed. I'm not certain just how many thousandths to add to the tenon length. I guess I'll just measure from the face of the receiver to the bolt face with the bolt held back tight and then add a couple thou. Any thoughts?

That's all for now. I'm going to take the bolt apart and polish it up and clean up some of the sharp edges on the receiver. Then it's on to the trigger. Hopefully my buddy will get the barrel turned this week.

Tony

 

...
Factory Savage barrel is .6877"
Factory Ruger SS Sporter is .6866"
GM Bull barrel is .6883"
The factory Ruger barrel will begin to slip into the receiver and probably wouldn't take much polishing to slip into place. The GM barrel is just .0017 larger so again, won't take much for the dia. to fit.
...
...
Tony

Given the very small difference in DIA, it may be possible to simply put the barrel in the freezer and put the action in the oven on low with the door cracked open (like you're making jerky!). The barrel would be a real PITA to get off again but I bet it would be more accurate at the same time if you attached the barrel this way.

If ultimate accuracy is the goal here then it might be worth trying. However, since you have to machine some metal anyway, the convenience of easier replacement might be more appealing.

Just an idea I am throwing out there.

 

Great write up and pictures Tony! I took the barrel off my F last night. The pin would not come out so I ended up drilling it out... Not the best but it came out. The barrel was very tight like yours.

 

Thanks guys.

BLUElixir, what barrel are you gonna use? What kind of build are you working on?

Quaid, I had thought of that. But if I have any problems then, like you say, it could be difficult to get apart. I'm going for a snug fit but one I'd still be able to turn the barrel a bit in the receiver if needed. I think that with some Loctite applied will be ok. If I do another I'll probably get a barrel blank and have it turned and chamber it. If I could find someone to do it for a reasonable price I would consider threading it and the receiver.

Another thing that just dawned on me, if I make the tenon a hair too long then I could file a touch off the pad on the back of the bolt handle. I've never done this before. But I think with the help and guidance of some of the guys here it will be just fine. Now if the stock just gets here in time to finish...

Tony

PS...Don't hesitate to correct me if I'm wrong about something...

 

Tony, I'm not really sure yet. I've been toying with using a Tactical Solutions or maybe an Alumalite. I already have a Boyds thumbhole finished in black splatter pattern but I'm kind of going for a light weight rig. In that case maybe a plain old FV stock? I'm not sure yet. I'm enjoying reading about your build!

 

I think if you left the tenon too long you would be much better off polishing away material from the bolt face as this isn't really a wear face, but the locking lug is, and is certainly only case hardened. This would have the added benefit of reducing headspace which is very likely loose to accept ammo from all over the world. At that point you would want to look at your firing pin protrusion to make sure you weren't smacking the breech face with that top part of the pin.

BTW I reduced my headspace by soldering a .012 shim into the recessed portion of the bolt face. That was a project, but it has been great since then. I'll probably switch to the method above when I pull my barrel and set it back.