I think you did just fine. .4s to .7s with CCI SV, Tac-22 and SK seem to be pretty good for the conditions. It’s not a BR gun however and I’m not sure if that model even has the match barrel. I would certainly be happy and keep testing ammo and action screw tensions in calmer conditions.

 

No, I don’t think the PV has match chamber or barrel. This was my first time shooting bench rest, and it is noticeably more stable than shooting off my tripod.

 

Pick the best ones, find a better day to shoot. Shoot at least one 5 shot group for reference and to acclimating the lube. Then fire a few groups to get a feel for the accuracy potential.

Repeat this every time you change ammo. Take your time, get comfortable with your rifle. Learn what works and what doesn’t. I think you will get there.

I use to wait till the last hour before sunset to shoot, waiting till the sun was setting behind me and the wind was calm. My results were much different than a hurried 10 mph day.

 

Thanks for the input great info for beginners

 

I am not the person that started out shooting top dollar ammunition. However over some period of time the least I would start out with would be in the $10.00 to $15.00 per box and you are by no means there. SK Biathlon Sport, SK Pistol Match Special, SK Long Range Match. The next step would be the Lapua amminitions. In ammunition you get pretty much exactly what you pay for. Your rifle is good you have to upgrade what you are trying to put through it according to what you are able to afford. Then practice.

I am at 5500 ft.

 

You need better ammo and conditions for a start.

 

I would suggest shooting a more appropriate sized target. Maybe the small orange posters with the black center or just some +s drawn in sharpie. It'll give you a finer aiming point.
A lighter trigger & a higher power scope would definitely work in your favor as well.
Don't get discouraged. You'll figure it out!

 

With a new setup, take a minute to ensure you have proper torque on the scope bases and top caps. Given this is a new barrel, you've a limited number of rounds through it, and challenging conditions, I'm not surprised or concerned with the results you show. Check for proper focus on the ocular lens and try a different style target. I prefer the colored sight-in targets (red or orange) with grid lines and a five diamond pattern. Aiming at the tip of a diamond, rather than the center, gives me a clear, but very fine aiming point where I can fire 4-5 groups of the same ammo and keep them close together. I find firing 10 shot groups gives me a better representation about the consistency of the ammo. When I find an ammo lot that shows promise, then I would run through torque settings with that ammo. Trying to see what ammo shoots best while changing action screw torques will likely only lead to a long day without much to show for it. Having read many of the posts about CZ, I'm sure you've also seen many recommendations for the SK and Lapua ammo lines. Hang in there it will get better!

 

I’ve been tracing a dime and filling it in with a sharpie lol, but I’ll definitely try a different target next time. Thing is I think I am ammo frugal with higher dollar ammo lol and I only have limited quantities. I don’t think I’ll have enough to do 10 shot groups and then action torque testing.

Edit: I do have 1k rounds of CCI SV. I might be able to get away with one 10 shot group and five 5 shot groups with other brands, but not torque test after all those shots.

 

Please give yourself some slack. Many shooters will start hunting and after years or decades switch to benchrest style shooting.

Silence your phone.
Sit behind your rifle. Position as much of your body behind your rifle.
Relax & Go slow.
See yourself shooting the perfect shot.
Focus on follow through.
Hydrate before and during shooting.

Finally, The best way to improve is a case of ammunition.

 

Yea, you might be right. I may be rushing things too quick and expecting near perfect results.

 

If you can use wind flags, even something as simple as surveyor's tape to catch direction changes will help. Often "the wind was from behind" = a 5-7 O'clock wind. Even worse is when it rapidly changes between them and you are still assuming it is from 6 O'clock.

 

I think you did just fine with the conditions mentioned. Being a brand new CZ I would be checking out the following checks that you should make:
1. Is the barrel really free floating? Dollar bill test.
2. Have you used a torque wrench to ensure the reciever to stock bolts are set to the right tightness (35 inch/lbs)? Same goes true for scope rail and rings (8-10 inch/lbs) -----i think if I remember right.
3. You are using a can (suppressor) and it might not be in sinc with the barrel harmonics. This can pull some of the ammo out of wack. CCI ammo is good stuff and it shows in your groups. Try leaving the can off and see what that does to your groups. If it tightens then you might want to go with a barrel tuner or experimenting with shimming your can. Not an exact science but lots of discussions on barrel tuners to read, both pro and con.
Dave

 

1: yes barrel is free floating, I was able to get a piece of paper to freely slide all the way back
2: I’ve only tested action screws front and rear up to 20in/lb and found 15 was what my CZ likes so far (with CCI SV). Didn’t want to go past 20, since I’ve read that the wood stock may crack. Scope rings were torqued to 12in/lb, per Warne do not exceed 18. On my 10/22 I torqued rings to 20in/lb per Athlon rings and it cracked the glass, so I’m skeptical about higher torque on rings.
3: I have not tested without the suppressor, I’ll have to try at the next session.

 

Light trigger and finding the ammo your rifle likes is key. I really like Tac-22 for its affordability but groups certainly improve when I step up to SK, Lapua or Eley offerings. For me a two pound trigger doesn’t cut it. I’ve been able to change springs and get down to about 14oz. Much better but I have a new 3-6oz. Jard that just arrived for my MTR.

Another thing is using a target that works for the reticle in my scope. If my scope has a dot reticle I found the dot would get washed out and lost aiming at the orange circles or triangles with the black cross/dot in the center. I found the target I like online but modified it to have a white dot in the center instead. Same when using a scope with a plain plex reticle. I like shooting at a black square target that has a white cross. I can adjust the power on my scope so the crosshairs appear just smaller than the white cross on the target. This is just what works for me, but I feel it has certainly improved my ability to aim more precisely at the targets.

 

I did order a Yodave trigger spring, still waiting for it to arrive. I’ll sometimes use the CZ for squirrel hunting, but will mainly use the 10/22 for hunting. CZ will be for learning to shoot longer ranges, but I don’t plan on competing(?). Once the new spring gets here I’ll aim for 1.5lb to start.

 

Winds 10-20 says this isn't an ammo test, its a wind reading test.

 

Haha. Weather app says low 5mph winds couple days prior, but then changed morning of range day. I was impatient to see how the Cz would perform and decided to go anyways.

 

Very good advice above from some seasoned shooters. All I could reemphasize would be to test higher end match ammo first. When you find that magic brand/lot, then test varying action torque settings with that ammo, hold technique, and be sure to go thru your basics of shooting, breathing, squeeze, follow thru etc. It's a journey to find what each rifle likes, and how it likes to be shot, you'll find it, just keep at it.

 

From your last post, try tracing the dime, then just put a dot in the center to aim at. 👍🏼

 

I would also test without a suppressor as with rimfire they rarely help with accuracy. About every 200 rounds mine get torn down and cleaned as the carbon builds very quickly and degrades accuracy.

 

I've got a dead air mask, a sparrow, and an optimus micro and about a half dozen threaded barrels that can prove that hypothesis to be incorrect.

 

Just a quick background; I am new to shooting, started small game hunting in 10/2024 with a Ruger 10/22, then recently acquired a CZ 457 Pro Varmint.

My current set up:
CZ 457 Pro Varmint
OCL TI22 suppressor
Pete’s Pillar 15 MOA rail
Warne 513M rings (514M when I first sighted and tested ammo)
Athlon Helos BTR Gen2 2-12x42
Adjusted factory trigger from 3lb to the lowest I could at 2-2lb 6oz

I took about 50-75 Federal Auto Match and Gold Medal subsonic to “season” the barrel.

These are shots taken from 50 yds with cheap Caldwell XLA bipod and rear bag. Conditions were not perfect; 1000 ft of elevation, 40-50 degrees from when I started and ended, roughly 10 mph crosswind R-L, gusts up to 20 mph. From where I was shooting, most of the wind is blowing over me until the gust picked up. No shots were taken when it was gusting.

I know I should be taking more groups with each ammo, but conditions weren’t the best and I didn’t have time. But thoughts on these groups? I was expecting to get at least .3” ragged hole at 50 yds. Or I still suck at shooting since I’m still new…lol.

LC22,

To answer your first question, YES.
So, let's break this down as to why. see highlighted red.
IMO under scoped if you're expecting consistent .3" groups @ 50.
Bulk ammo will never be consistent, you will get "flyers."
You need a stable bench and a stable rest. you cannot expect .3" @50 with wobbly equipment.
When testing wait for a day when the wind speed is very, very low, not 10-20 mph.
Get a few real flags and learn to read wind. you were only guessing the wind wasn't gusting. the wind you feel setting at the bench isn't always the same as the wind @50.
And finally, if you could shoot .3" groups consistently @50 "all day long" in 10-20 mph wind you could very easily win the ARA factory class outdoor Nation Championship AGG.

I'll add this; start @25 and when you are getting the groups you are looking for then move to 30 and so on. find out where it starts to fall apart and work on getting better 5 yards at a time.

Good luck!

 

I like the Helos scope, Athlon has a 4-20x50 version. Would that be sufficient? I do plan to push out to 100 yds but not anytime soon. I am open to other scope brands as well.

 

I had a good friend with a “new” (used) CZ MTR and he was getting about the same results as you. He was fairly new to 22LR benchrest shooting but was an accomplished centerfire and shotgun shooter. Here are the things he did incrementally to improve and consistently shoot 5-shot groups under 0.5” CTC: (1) Cleaned the bore completely … this produced an immediate, noticeable improvement (2) removed, cleaned and properly retorqued every fastener (3) moved to a solid, stable front rest (Caldwell) (4) found a rear bag that worked properly with the front rest (5) started shooting capable ammo … he started with a test brick of SK STD+ (6) worked very hard (shot a lot) to develop a repeatable, sound technique (7) installed a Timney trigger adjusted to about 14 oz (8) started shooting over some basic wind flags he made himself using tomato stakes and surveyor’s tape. In about six months, he became a vey capable shooter. This approach may work for you, too. I’d start with setting reasonable expectations of yourself … a 5-shot group you can cover with a dime at 50-yards is a 1 MOA group; doing that regularly is about as good as you can expect at this point. Then, I’d give that bore a thorough, proper cleaning. It’s a fun game, enjoy it!

 

The 457 Varmint is a hunting rifle.
Offhand, braced on tree/fencepost/bipod, it's fine for center of critter.
It is not a precision competition quality rimfire rifle.
Rifle quality varies due to the assembly line lottery.
You have no idea what kind of day it was at the factory when assembled.

Claims of superb results are based on random acts of accuracy.
They are not consistent results, indicated by targets shot for score,
but by individual 5 shot groups, with the rest of the target cropped away.
Makes you wonder why, eh?

Stop shooting groups.
You want to learn?
Shoot for score. Make every shot count.
Did it hit center? If not, why?
Was it the setup? Bad wind call? Body movement?
Or was it poorly made ammunition?

Shooting groups will make you think y'er accomplishing something.
Yet when you attempt a target for score,
y'er gonna learn the groups don't translate well,
when attempting to hit what you aim at.

Fire a few groups to warm up,
to adjust y'er scope to current ammo/conditions.
Then try one dot - one shot targets and pay attention
to what you are doing right, and more importantly,
what you are doing wrong. Each shot will provide instant feedback.
Figure out the cause of the stray, then move on to the next shot.
You will learn more, faster, shooting for score than you will from groups.

 

Claims of superb results are based on random acts of accuracy.
They are not consistent results, indicated by targets shot for score,
but by individual 5 shot groups, with the rest of the target cropped away.
Makes you wonder why, eh?

True, I see quite a bit of this

 

high wind off a bipod in the cold. Those are really good groups for that scenario. In terms of groups with some of that ammo, eley will want the barrel to be clean before you season it. Most everything else can be seasoned over fouling.

 

As others have suggested the use of flags, better ammo, a solid rest and practice!
Be aware too that your rifle is a hunting grade rifle not a match or target rifle. Even some very good target rifles need Proper ammo and shooting technique to produce 0.3” groups with regularity.

This is from the CZ web sight and pertains to their MTR ”Match” barrels only :
“Selected 22 LR caliber models, such as the CZ 457 MTR, have a MATCH chamber at the very edge of the CIP tolerance. Precision manufacturing and low tolerances provide an impressive accuracy of 1 MOA, depending on the ammunition used”

1 MOA is ~0.6” @ 50 yds. Most CZs, regardless of barrel, meet or exceed this level of accuracy. My 455 varmint runs between 0.4”-0.6” with SK match or better grades of ammo in calmer conditions . My MTR might do a tenth inch better all things equal but it’s a tight race.
Do I get 0.2” groups? Sure! From both rifles on occasion. I also get the odd 1” group too, but we don’t talk about those here 🤫

 

I use these when not using premade targets. They are great for small dot style reticles like my Athlon Midas Tac 6-24 FFP. The yellow is worthless, but I really like the red and green.

 

I use these when not using premade targets. They are great for small dot style reticles like my Athlon Midas Tac 6-24 FFP. The yellow is worthless, but I really like the red and green.

View attachment 582317

This is my favorite target.

 

Or maybe those cans just suck....

 

Am I Expecting Too Much? (CZ 457 Pro Varmint)

I don't believe your 457 is the weak link. I'd focus on remedying those loose scope rings and improving new shooter skills.

Good luck.

 

I agree with a lot that has been said. Better ammo , bigger scope , better conditions etc.
And disagree with some other things. A. CZ 457 PV is hardly a hunting gun. No its not a top of the line bench gun, but its a bench gun nonetheless. Something to learn bench shooting techniques on and to enjoy the results.

One thing you might try is not using your group as the poa. After the first shot the exact poa has been obliterated and it only gets worse after each shot. Center your cross hairs on the target and move the poi , couple of clicks left or right, that way the group wonunt be exactly where you are aiming and youll be able to aim at the exact same spot each shot. The groups will be smaller , just not on the bullseye.
Once you see how tight you can get them , then you can move the poi back and start shooting 1 shot bullseye for score. And lern how poi changes when you move from left to right and up and down the target sheet.

The biggest improvement I experienced came from learning not to touch the gun when I was pulling the trigger, no trigger hand thumb over the stock, no shoulder on the stock , no face welded to the stock .

Mechanically you need to make sure the target is level the bench is lever the rest is level and the gun is level . So buy some bubble levels and use them. One on the gun too.

Buy a bottom plate rest rider for the forend and ditch the front bag, get a tall rabbit eared bag for the rear,

 

The biggest improvement I experienced came from learning not to touch the gun when I was pulling the trigger, no trigger hand thumb over the stock, no shoulder on the stock , no face welded to the stock .

Mechanically you need to make sure the target is level the bench is lever the rest is level and the gun is level . So buy some bubble levels and use them. One on the gun too.

Buy a bottom plate rest rider for the forend and ditch the front bag, get a tall rabbit eared bag for the rear,

I did not know this, I’ll have to try it out. Honestly, I don’t have a proper bench rest and nothing is level, except I’ll level the gun before grouping. I’ve been using a folding white table to shoot off of…the layout of the land doesn’t give me any good leveled places. Where it’s fairly leveled, I don’t have a good back stop for bullets.

Edit: I’ve been gripping, shouldering, and cheek welding like how I would normally shoot off hand, except left hand squeezing rear bag.

 

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Finding out if the suppressor is affecting repeatability is easy enough to diagnose. Shoot with it on and off. If the barrel threads aren't cut concentric to the bore it can be problematic.

Also, it's not uncommon for the first shot with a cold suppressor to be off. Below is an example of an old YHM Wraith suppressor and CMMG AR22 at 50yds with CCI SV.

 

Spacing makes a difference too. As does whether or not you float the barrel. There is something going on with the gas flow out of the crown and into the blast baffle. Not unlike how airflow around a valve seat can be changed with varying seat angles on a valve job.