My advice, take it or leave it, as the Mark IV is easy to take down, I would remove the bolt, carefully pull the extractor and remove the firing pin and springs. Still using a snap cap to protect the chamber face, re-assemble the bolt and barrel, and now you can pull the bolt back and load the hammer all you want, pulling the trigger will slam the hammer on the back of the bolt. Hopefully it won't damage anything.

 

interesting idea! tnx

still use a snap cap ...ok .. I just ordered some...

how bout the recoil spring and rod .. leave those in the bolt ?

and whats your .02 cents on : just utilizing snap caps ( w firing pin in place ) ?

 

having had all 4 mk`s every model has short enough firing pins as to not contact the chamber edge. hence no peen mark dent or dimple on the chamber from dry fires

 

Agreed with one caveat

Make sure the stop pin is in place and is not bent/damaged. I dry fire regularly for practice .

 

tnx Stewswansen..

re: replacing the stock ( two hole ) FP... since I havent tracked the discussion over the past year abt breaking FPs... any preference for the two ai saw being discussed

the Tandemcross or the Volquartsen?

 

Also: No.10 drywall anchors. Cheaper than snapcaps and more durable.

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370326-Ribbed-Plastic-100-Pack/dp/B000H5WVCS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1547862491&sr=8-3&keywords=yellow+drywall+anchors

Ummm...but try to imagine it small.

 

Also: No.10 drywall anchors. Cheaper than snapcaps and more durable.

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-3703...H5WVCS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1547862491&sr=8-3&keywords=yellow+drywall+anchors

Ummm...but try to imagine it small.

That's what I use.👍🏼

 

excellent, ordered! ( tnx for the link )... love shopping on Amazon.. theyll be here tomorrow! 😊

 

Yea drywall anchor is all I use in my hunter mark IV for dry firing.They will eject just like a real.22 shell too:bthumb:

 

You could always read the owners manual which address dry firing the MK IV. Should be the authority on the subject.

 

Dry firing with a snap cap is fine, they do deteriorate though, and pulling back the bolt to load the hammer will extract a snap cap. I guess you could fill a magazine with snap caps, but who wants to pick 'em up afterwards.

 

Maybe this will help,,
Page 14 of the Mark IV manual
If you don't have the manual you can download it from Ruger website.

BUT,,, You will wear your finger out before you hurt the pistol dry firing,,

 

The yellow ones. Not trying to be flippant, but the yellow ones from several companies work.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

If you look on Ruger's website under FAQ's for pistols, it states that all of their pistols can be dry fired, including rimfire.

IDK, I tried the wall anchor thing and it is so easy to use, I think I'll play it safe and stay with that

But if you ever had a problem from dry firing, like peening , Ruger would likely take care of it since it is stated on their website.

 

Resurrecting this thread--just picked up a new MK IV. As noted in thread, p. 14 of the manual says that the MK IV "can be dry fired but a snap cap is strongly recommended for anything more than occasional dry fire."

So, if you're just practicing your trigger press and trying to continually smooth and break in the trigger, why bother with snap caps or drywall anchors at all?

It's not clear to me--on the MK IV specifically--why a snap cap is even needed at any point for dry firing.

 

I use wall anchors on my other pistols to keep them from peening. Ruger's I never worry. Dry fire away. Make sure you switch the factory firing pin to a Volquartsen firing pin in the Mark IV, there is a definite chance of breaking the factory pin especially if dry firing. Although I can not testify for a broken firing pin because I did not take the chance and switched mine on both Mark IV's right away.

 

I have the VQ Firing Pin in my MkIV Hunter and 22\45 Lite. Length and the firing stop pin hole dimensions, compared to the OEM FP, are identical.

I measured the FP striker "tip" distance from the bolt front face under two scenarios:

1. Back of FP where hammer strikes- once the FP is struck and the hammer pushes the FP forward, the hammer meets the inside of the back bolt face, only driving the FP forward so far (under moderate spring tension). At this point, the FP tip is .025" away from being flush with the front bolt face, or .025" away from striking the barrel breach!

2.FP pushed all the way till it limits out on the Solid Firing Stop Pin- At this point of max forward travel (under strong spring tension), the FP tip is .010" away from being flush with the front bolt face, or .010" away from striking the barrel breach!!

FWIW, my CCI Mini Mag ammo averages casing rim thicknesses of .045". My measurements, along with varying clearances and tolerances, may change slightly from gun to gun (YMMV).

For me, this answers the questions why Ruger states Dry Firing is okay...in moderation! IMO, insuring you have a Solid A2 Steel, in "good condition" Firing Stop Pin always set in the bolt is paramount to prevent DF issues with the MkIV!!

Ted

 

IMO, insuring you have a Solid A2 Steel, in "good condition" Firing Pin always set in the bolt is paramount to prevent DF issues with the MkIV!!

Ted

I don't understand this, can you rephrase?

I am running a new Ruger Mk IV, 22/45, with the factory bolt and firing pin. I dry fire the pistol as-is. I am not planning to switch firing pins, and don't understand what "always set in the bolt" is referring to. Also I'm not clear why dry firing "in moderation" is ok, whereas doing so frequently is not. What's the difference?

The other thing I'm curious about is, when dry firing without a snap cap: Does it hurt anything to drop the bolt full force (or use the bolt release lever) on an empty chamber when charging the pistol? This is precisely the case where I'm wondering if either I need to be using a snap cap (or wall anchor), OR I need to be kind of softly dropping the bolt rather than letting it slam home.

 

As far as dry wall anchors, I order the 4-6-8 x 7/8 inch Hillman Group ones on Amazon for $5.85 per 100. I use them mainly in my Smith & Wesson model 41 and Victory. They work great but you have to rotate them as you use them.

My Ruger is a MKII and I dry-fire it moderately with out using dry-wall anchors but I check the firing pin and firing pin stop regularly and as others have mentioned, with the MKIV you need to make sure you have the firing pin with only one hole.

Dry-firing is discussed a bunch on shooting forums and opinions vary greatly on whether to do it or not.

 

with the MKIV you need to make sure you have the firing pin with only one hole.

Why?

 

Also I will add that on the Mark IV Ruger changed the design of the firing pin. They put two holes into the firing pin. People have had problems dry firing the Mark IV and breaking the new weaker firing pins. Buy a Volquartsen firing pin that is made as an improved old style Ruger firing pin.
When the Mark IV factory firing pin breaks it will damage/Peen the chamber.

 

Thanks for the replies.

So it sounds like this boils down to: If you want to safely dry fire a factory MK IV with no concern for peening the chamber, better to use snap caps. Otherwise, get a VQ firing pin.

 

Thanks for the replies.

So it sounds like this boils down to: If you want to safely dry fire a factory MK IV with no concern for peening the chamber, better to use snap caps. Otherwise, get a VQ firing pin.

Tim,

Yes, seems you boiled it down Just Right!

BTW, HERE is info referencing what Jeff was posting about...thanks Jeff! :bthumb:

Ted

 

I dont dry fire any gun for practice. I test guns with a snap cap in cf and a wall anchor in rf.

I dont need to ask. I dont care what anyone says. It is more wear and tear on the gun and potential for failure and damage. Take the gun apart and look inside. A bangs into B, no cushion. If A breaks what stops it then? And it matters not to me, who made the firing pin.

 

I dont dry fire any gun for practice. I test guns with a snap cap in cf and a wall anchor in rf.

I dont need to ask. I dont care what anyone says. It is more wear and tear on the gun and potential for failure and damage. Take the gun apart and look inside. A bangs into B, no cushion. If A breaks what stops it then? And it matters not to me, who made the firing pin.

Understand what you're saying, and will not try to talk you out of your preferred practice.

Just to comment that really, EVERYTHING that involves moving parts in a pistol--dry firing or regular firing--entails wear and tear. But almost every centerfire pistol trainer I've ever heard of STRONGLY recommends extensive dry firing as part of training, along with shooting live ammunition. For myself, I dry fire practice with all my firearms that can tolerate it, although probably more with my centerfire pistols than rifles, and more centerfire anything than rimfire.

 

I know. I was told at one time Ruger reps would setup a display at some of the shows where a single action, Blackhawk was cycled (ie dry fired) with a machine. All day long, click, click .... So, yea, opinions vary - even at Ruger it would seem.

Fast forward today, Page 13 from owners manual

The RUGER MARK IV pistol can be dry fired but a snap cap is strongly recommended for anything more than occasional dry fire practice.

Here is the link:

https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/Mark-IV-Pc4tS28s.pdf

 

I know. I was told at one time Ruger reps would setup a display at some of the shows where a single action, Blackhawk was cycled (ie dry fired) with a machine. All day long, click, click .... So, yea, opinions vary - even at Ruger it would seem.

Fast forward today, Page 13 from owners manual

Here is the link:

https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/Mark-IV-Pc4tS28s.pdf

FB,

Yep, nothing wrong with those Ruger procedures. However, somewhat reminds me of MkIII LCIs\Keyed Actions & MkIII & IV Mag Disconnects!?!

Ted

 

I use # 6 drywall anchors and they work just great. One nice thing about the Mark IV is you do not have to use the anchors. You can dry fire, as per the owner's manual.

 

I use # 6 drywall anchors and they work just great. One nice thing about the Mark IV is you do not have to use the anchors. You can dry fire, as per the owner's manual.

I just quoted the owners manual 3 post above. It say to only dry fire "occasionally'! Or else use a snap cap. It could not be any more clear. Maybe your paper copy is different? Would you care to cut&paste the words right from the online pdf owners manual like I did? Now, if I am not mistaken Ruger did change the dry fire recommendation for the Mk IV. I think? It may not be one of us is crazy here.

The Ruger firing pin looks like a horrible design. Failures were photographed and reported on this forum. I replaced mine. BUT!! There is nothing new about firing pin breakage. Its been happening since the development of cartridge ammo. The issue with rim fires is also well understood for generations. if Ruger was not so fast to repair damaged chambers the online recommendations might be different. Of course, since Ruger messed up the firing pin design, they should be replacing the damaged barrels.

 

AZ, true that, but I think if the above discussion is correct, it sounds like replacing the OEM firing pin with a strong one (like VQ) is a cheap insurance policy to reduce risk of damage (which would occur if the more fragile Ruger firing pin breaks during dry firing).

Now Ruger's comment about "occasional" dry firing that I and FB had quoted in the MK IV manual makes more sense to me. The more you dry fire, the more you risk that metal getting stressed through use and breaking at some point when you do not have a round in the chamber. And the Ruger OEM firing pin looks more fragile than VQ's, by comparison, so that's the potential issue right there.

However the flip side of this is, I don't know how common of an issue it actually is for MK IV owners to experience broken OEM firing pins and get the resulting damage to the chamber. From the other thread, apparently it has happened. But I just know by experience, sometimes you can get a 'myth' started in the gun community that a given part needs to be replaced or added, and that's not always absolutely true. Example: a LOT of expert 1911 gunsmiths will tell you that adding a shock buff to a standard 1911 shooting standard .45 ammo is totally unnecessary. And yet, so many people will keep adding one, thinking that somehow it is preventing mysterious damage or wear and tear from happening.

 

For me, it was just a cheap piece of mind. There has been some breakages, how many who knows. It may be one or two, but I prefer that piece of mind. I do dry fire my Marks but only when I am first setting up the Volquartsen trigger. Once set they never get dry fired again.

 

AZ, true that, but I think if the above discussion is correct, it sounds like replacing the OEM firing pin with a strong one (like VQ) is a cheap insurance policy to reduce risk of damage (which would occur if the more fragile Ruger firing pin breaks during dry firing).

... And the Ruger OEM firing pin looks more fragile than VQ's, by comparison, so that's the potential issue right there.

Tim,

Look at the Majestic Arms (3-hole) firing pin:

This firing pin is in no more danger of breaking than the VQ, TK, or any other well made firing pin. The holes might make it have some weak points, but they mean nothing if force isn't applied across them. And none is when used in a Ruger (or Volquartsen) bolt.

The Ruger MKIV pin breaks because they radiused the lower, back corner. That allows it to fall off the bolt's rear support ledge. Then, during live fire, the explosive rearward acceleration of the case across the headspace drives the back of the firing pin up and over the bolt ledge. This slams the front of the firing pin down VERY hard onto the front support ledge. This gives 2 powerful upward forces on the ends of the pin while the center is held down by the inserted stop pin. This is what breaks the pin at it's weakest point - the front hole.

So live fire breaks it, and dry fire launches the broken off piece into the chamber mouth.

You can dry fire the Ruger MKIV firing pin till the cows come home with no possible chamber damage - as long as you never live fire with it. But that kind of defeats the purpose of buying the pistol. Otherwise, you're gambling on when the flawed firing pin will break. It's best to just replace it and have the peace of mind.

 

Good explanation--thanks.

 

Your owner's manual covers dry firing.