:t , where the hecks my carbide drill set.... thanks, mw

 

dang Nemo.....2oz????? you just have to show a few more pics of this and some targets after the mods.

 

more info.

it's my ARA gun and still in lots of pieces. i added another pic to the first post. like i said it aint just the moving of the pin its a combo of everything toghether. not whole lot of folks would start grinding on there sear just to be able to polish it properly. thats what i did and thats what screwed it up in the first place. a serious lack of replacement parts for these things makes working on them REALLY scary. break something and your screwed. mangle somethign same story. only luck and chance combined to make this happen. i NEVER would have tried this on a functioning group BUT since a replacement was easy albeit expensive to get i went ahead with it. FWIW it is not a total win situation. you get more creep with the new hole location. it's not a lot but it's there. FWIW i'll give up some pull wieght in excange for a bit of creep. some will probly like it due to the extreamly light wieght. it lets you get your finger on the trigger. i could never let my buddies shoot this thing now. ham fisted squak busters would have AD's all over the place. they think 2#'s is a hair trigger LOL.

 

Just did the re-position.. great!! I used 1/8" bit and re-used the origional pin. I need to get a trigger scale, just guessing about 4 oz. I did polish the surfaces while I had the trigger apart. I have'nt made any fine adjustments yet, need that scale to avoid guesswork. thanks for posting the mod! mw

 

Thanks for sharing Nemo. Williwm, is your trigger creepy or is yours crisp after the mod?

 

I've played arould with the sear engagement and its crisp.Passes the safety tests, I like it... mw

 

Do either of you guys have pictures of the trigger group when it was apart? I am considering something like this but, like Nemo said, its kind of scary due to the lack of spare parts.

I have always wondered were the spares are. Its hard to believe that the military would buy thousands of these rifles with no spare parts. Usually spares are part of the contract.

 

If you drill where nemohunter indicates, there is nothing that you can damage. Pin could be relocated back in the origional hole if you desired.(don't think you would!!) I didn't have a carbide drill so used my torch to draw the temper at the new hole location and then used a titanium bit. Kept the sear area cool, it's still hard. The trigger is simple, just don't lose the two small springs. mw

I have another 82g that I may do this afternoon, if I do, I'll get pictures.

 

Here should be a photo of the disassembled trigger showing the new holes.

And while looking for a replacement sear return spring amoungst my junk, I found a set of Ruger Blackhawk grips and an almost full box of Russian 22 Junior ammo.

 

if you switch the trigger return spring to the top instead of the bottom it will get lighter yet. :t i'm VERY glad it's working out for others and not just me.

 

if you switch the trigger return spring to the top instead of the bottom it will get lighter yet. :t i'm VERY glad it's working out for others and not just me. i will be offering this as a service to those without the tools. just drop me a PM or email.

Guys, come on, think about it, moving the return spring to the top position gives the spring "more" leverage thus a heavier pull at the shoe. leave the spring in the lower position and if needed snip off a coil or two to allow the pull weight wanted while still having thread locking capabilities.

 

This needs to be added to the suggested 82G sticky.

 

This could be a major breakthrough for Kimber shooters wanting to go the BR route.

Nemo, Could the Trigger Assembly be sent to you to rework for a fee when you have your procedure finalized?

Richard

 

Thanks to Willi and Nemo for the posts and photos.

Do you guys think you have the new hole at its optimum position or, is there room for improvement?

I have two of these rifles and I'll probably try this mod on them. I like being able to return the gun to the original condition.

 

I saw a M700 triger modified like this by Bill Leeper over thirty years ago at Guncraft in Calgary . He can be found on Br.com. It worked very well.

A great book on the subject of triggers:Benchrest Actions & Triggers by
Stuart Otteson
http://www.riflemagazine.com//catalog/detail.cfm?ProductID=382
For Professional and amateur gunsmiths who plan to build benchrest-quality rifles. This volume enables the enthusiast to select components from the research and detailed analyses of Stuart Otteson.

Glenn

 

William: Thanks for the photos of the mod to the 82-G trigger. Great job. I have a Kimber of Oragon 82_G* and I have used it at benchrest matches at my gun club -best I ever did was a fourth place finish. This past match on April 5th my Anschutz 1813 got beat by a Kimber 82-G. I am going to get my friend Don Stith to make me a benchrest stock -glass bed the action free float the barrel and pillar bed the action. I have the trigger down as light as it will go and because it is a * model I will not screw around with the parts that are on it. Hope to hear more about how your mod does when you get it togeather . garrisone.

 

Is GB -Gun Broker. If so how do I get in touch with them? garrisone.

 

i have done three including my own they are all perfect. i have not changed a thing since the first one. i would not move the pin hole any higher due to the increase of creep needed to make the thing work. i can do the mechanical part of the work but it will need to set at the desired pull wieght by the owner once it is returned and installed back on the rifle. yes GB = gunbroker.com

 

nemohunter, again, thank you posting the mod. can't wait to get to the range!! (have you studied the geometry of the Remington 513t's trigger ?

mudd turtle, I'll post when I shoot them. ps I haven't forgotten about sending you some photos of the Admiral Semmes statue, just haven't had a chance to get downtown, mw

 

William: No problem. garrisone

 

Nemohunter,

When you tighten down the set screws to hold the trigger in position to drill the hole, what position is the trigger in? Is it cocked against the sear or at-rest? Or is the difference so small that it won't matter?

 

Another question for Nemo, what type of carbide bit did you use- a regular spiral or one of the Hi Roc types? I'm looking for a bit to use and then I'll be ready to do the trigger mod.

 

i tightened them down in the "set" position as in ready to fire. for my first one (mine) i used a 1/4" 140 deg carbide spot drill. the others i used a .125" 118 deg carbide twist drill no high roc's they are too fragile. be ready for a bit of sticker shock on the drill bit. they are almost $10 a pop. quite a lot for drilling one hole.

 

I finally got around to doing one of my triggers. I did use a Hi Roc bit as it was all I had and it worked fine. The bit may have been a little off spec because the hole was too tight for the pin. I had to lap out the hole a little but, that may be a good thing since I now have a very good fit.

I have noticed that there is a slight angle on the trigger part of the sear engagement that prevents the engagement from being set for a minimum of travel. If you set it too close, it tends to slip off. Since this mod increases the length of pull slightly, it would be good to be able to set the sear engagement to a minimum. Has anyone changed that angle successfully?

 

if you grind the back side of the trigger down untill the engaugement is a perfect 90deg. you can get it down to a minimum. they are very slightly rounded from the factory for what reason i have no idea. when i do one i re-grind that surface and also the top of the trigger housing.

 

Thanks Nemo, thats what I was thinking. I'm a little skittish about modding these triggers because of the spare parts situation; if it were a 10/22 I'd proceed with reckless abandon.

By the way, do you know the size of the adjustment lock screws? I want to replace mine with brass screw if I can find them.

 

Lock Screw lead shot



I'm not sure it would work in this case due to the short length of the threaded lock screw hole but in similar situations in the past I have dropped a single small lead shot in the hole before installing the lock screw. This protects the threads on the adjustment screw from damage when the lock screw is snugged up.

Please ignore this suggestion if I'm preach'n to the choir.

I sure like the idea of this mod. I just got my 82G and foresee having this done to the trigger. Has anyone doing the mod set a $ for it yet?

T