personally, I don’t use enough actual Ruger parts in my builds to make going that route worth doing anymore…..I have many builds where the only Ruger part used in the entire rifle is the 10 shot magazine

so it would all depend on just how far down the aftermarket rabbit hole you want to go

 

I paid $300 for this one and it shoots well Remington Golden Bullets and a 10/22... | Rimfire Central Firearm Forum

 

$250 for a 10/22 is a fine deal. If need be, one can always sell the OEM parts you don’t use and recoup some of the cost.

Another option is S&P Outfitters and only buy exactly what you need.

Ruger 10/22 Stripped Black Receiver - S&P Outfitters, LLC

Free shipping! OEM Ruger 10/22 stripped receiver, factory take-off. The most affordable option for custom builds with genuine Ruger parts.

sapoutfitters.com

 

S&P are good folks for sure, the most cost effective 1022 I've seen has been $319.00 but all I need to complete my 1022 LVT build is a complete receiver Ruger 10/22 Complete Receiver – BX Target Trigger version – sapoutfitters.com . A donor is a still valid option but I'd still want a better trigger, at least a BX .

 

Years ago I would use existing/used 10/22's to build upon. After many builds, I started buying the components individually, i.e., receivers, bolts, barrels, triggers, etc. I had some really nice shooters. Then I bought a complete KIDD Supergrade barreled action (minus the stock), then a KIDD Classic barreled action and yesterday a 2nd KIDD Classic. After shooting them and appreciating the workmanship, I'm done with the 'Mutt' builds. Been there done that. I'm all set now with my KIDD rifles.

 

Unfortunately, this also .happened to me .

 

A donor rifle used to come fromthe used racks at the lgs or pawnshop. You looke$ for an early model with an anodized trceiver and a metal trigger group.hopefully in a finger groove walnut stock. Then of& to the internet for a wolfe spring kit some shims oversized pins a new rail an a new barrel and stock. Shopping and selling here was great. And you could always PIF. Some 400 and 1000 grit sandpaper, a dremel some jb bore paste , and you were in business.
Now the choice is to buy a lvt, send ii off to CPC the works, and buy a ca; of hornady one shot a case of good ammo and a decent scope.

 

A donor rifle used to come fromthe used racks at the lgs or pawnshop. You looke$ for an early model with an anodized trceiver and a metal trigger group.hopefully in a finger groove walnut stock. Then of& to the internet for a wolfe spring kit some shims oversized pins a new rail an a new barrel and stock. Shopping and selling here was great. And you could always PIF. Some 400 and 1000 grit sandpaper, a dremel some jb bore paste , and you were in business.
Now the choice is to buy a lvt, send ii off to CPC the works, and buy a ca; of hornady one shot a case of good ammo and a decent scope.

i would jump ontthe lpv in a minute , but unfortunatly i live in nystate, threaded barrel is a no go on semi automatic , was gonna go on the s& p outfitters route ,but by the time i paid ffl transfer fees it would be more than cabelas 1022 special ,

 

$259 isn't a bad price for a new carbine, but I'd rather spend $50-$100 more and get a gently used 1970's gun.
Walnut, no plastic and no barrel warnings. Like this Deluxe Sporter I bought in October:

 

The first 10/22 remodel (build) I did was with a bone stock Ruger 10/22. Long story short is the only thing that's original on that Ruger build is the receiver.

I have done three others since then, two using Tactical Innovation receivers and one using all Kidd parts.

Tactical Innovations (tacticalinc.com)

 

For what it is worth I think that is a great price for a new Ruger 10/22! Whether it should be the basis for a build project depends I think on how much of a build you intend to undertake. If we are talking about a new barrel and some trigger work then that is the way to go. If you are going to replace everything but the receiver then you are probably better off going a different route or just buy a complete rifle from Kidd or Volquartsen.
Just my opinion, have fun with whatever you decide upon.

 

I saw an older, metal triggered 10/22 in a local pawn shop yesterday. Not beat up, but was very dirty, and small signs of rust(pretty normal, i guess) inside though. Lowest they would go was $250. Probably not a bad deal, but I did buy a new Stainless LVT a few months ago for $350.

 

Most of what I have been reading the newer guns have gone through some changes which may make them more desirable to some people than the older guns.
Of course these days the trigger groups everything is geared toward the new polymer trigger housings and some aftermarket upgrades it states they may need fitting to work with the older metal housings.

Also I do not remember where I saw it but I read somewhere that Ruger made changes to their factory barrel manufacturing somewhere in the earlier 2000's time frame and the new barrels were considered to be superior when compared to the early model guns barrels.
I am sure someone will be more knowledgeable and able to provide more information on this subject.

Also in general when it comes to mass production modern CNC machining equipment makes it much easier for companies to turn out better more uniform parts with closer tolerances as a general rule.
Sure, different companies set different standards as to what is considered allowable as far as machining tolerance variations but the capability is there to make a better product easier than say 50-60 years ago just with the improvements from computer controlled CNC equipment.

Often in todays times people seem to think that just because a gun may be 40 years old it automatically increases its value even when the firearms were produced in very high numbers and sold in every location that sold guns pretty much.

Not to mention even examples in rougher shape that show little care or maintenance such as often found at pawn shops the asking prices for some of these poor examples can be a good bit higher than the cost of a new out of the box gun.

For a donor rifle a brand new 10/22 today can be purchased for under $250 so why buy a junky rifle from a pawn shop to begin with?

I know the pawn shops and LGS that dealt in trade in and used guns where I lived at until very recently had reached a point they wanted as much or more for run of the mill used guns than what they sold for new in the current market so I quit even looking for used guns for the most part.

 

Could someone recommend a parts list to build a accurate 10/22. Initially I was going to by a donor gun but after reading thru the forums it sounds like it might be best to buy the parts individually. 80% parts would be a good option for me also as I have machining capabilities.
Thanks in advance.

 

Good luck finding 80% stuff in stock anywhere

as far as a list goes, without knowing your budget it’s little tough.. if you budget will stand it, you can’t go wrong with getting your parts from KIDD or Volquartsen

 

Buy a new one at that price and shoot it ,then decide if you need to throw money at it .most will shoot better than you can.

 

What would you recommend to buy? I really want it to have a nice trigger!

 

^yep

 

I have already started to get my parts together for a pretty much Kidd Classic slip fit build.
I have a Kidd 20" bull barrel, Kidd bolt, Kidd charging handle and springs, Kidd receiver pins and a Kidd drop in trigger set for a Ruger trigger assembly which from what I have read is good for a 1.5-1.75 lb trigger in most cases. Last I am planning on just doing the Lowes nylon bolt mod for the buffer pin!

I was originally planning to save a few dollars and either go with a new Ruger take off receiver or a Brownells receiver but I have been reading the Brownells receivers are hit and miss as far as loose barrel fitment and the more I think about it the more that with the money I am spending on the rest of the build it would be unwise really to not go ahead and drop the extra coin to get the Kidd receiver as well.

Just something to think about as you gather up the stuff to do your build as if you are spending the bucks to go top tier in some areas be careful in where you decide to cut the corners if you are looking for the most accuracy you can get.

 

Yes, I agree, if building some scratch I will buy top end components. Otherwise, I might just look for a used gun in the future, as I am in no hurry on this one.

 

Think you'll find this a LOT more cost effective way of going about getting a receiver... Ruger 10/22 Stripped Receiver, Black - FYI: I paid $105 + $30 transfer.

That's the route I took with my last build. VERY honest & easy to work with, getting them my dealers FFL copy & so on.

That company has an excellent reputation on this forum for that reason.

Sure wish he had these at time of my purchase.. Ruger 10/22 Stripped Receiver, Silver - the finish project would look SOOO much better.

 

I just did the same thing. Sportsman's Warehouse had Ruger 10/ 22 for $229.00 so I purchased 2 to build up. I am retired so I play around gunsmithing to keep me busy. The one gun I switched over to an old stock and barrel I had laying around. So, I did a trigger job and Installed barrel and stock. The second one will receive the magpul stock new Stainless Shaw 18'' barrel and get a trigger job. I also have a Brownells stripped receiver, so I ordered a Green Mountain barrel Pike Arms trigger and Faxom bolt. I think buying a cheap 10/22 to build is less expensive. I think the cost of the parts build will be over $800. But like I said I do it to have something to do. The cheap Sportsman's Warehouse build is in the $500. range. Thats my 2 cents. I like doing the trigger jobs and barrel installs. if you like play gunsmithing I would by buy the cheap Ruger. Here are some pictures of the $229.00 Rugers. Enjoy you build.

 

I just did the same thing. Sportsman's Warehouse had Ruger 10/ 22 for $229.00 so I purchased 2 to build up. I am retired so I play around gunsmithing to keep me busy. The one gun I switched over to an old stock and barrel I had laying around. So, I did a trigger job and Installed barrel and stock. The second one will receive the magpul stock new Stainless Shaw 18'' barrel and get a trigger job. I also have a Brownells stripped receiver, so I ordered a Green Mountain barrel Pike Arms trigger and Faxom bolt. I think buying a cheap 10/22 to build is less expensive. I think the cost of the parts build will be over $800. But like I said I do it to have something to do. The cheap Sportsman's Warehouse build is in the $500. range. Thats my 2 cents. I like doing the trigger jobs and barrel installs. if you like play gunsmithing I would by buy the cheap Ruger. Here are some pictures of the $229.00 Rugers. Enjoy you build. View attachment 449854

these days, when buying your parts, you just have to be a better bargain hunter..for example, instead of getting the Pike Arms trigger complete..just buy their bare housing (and maybe a matching colored trigger blade), get a BX from Grabagun, and put your own trigger together..this way costs you a bit more time, but less $$, and you'll have the factory plastic trigger guard left to sell, or better yet, give it away in the Pay it Forward thread (like I did)

I've done at least 7 BX triggers this way, and saved a good bit of change...especially back when Grabagun had BX's for sale at $50, and Pike Arms had (anodized) housing for much less than they do now..

 

Sorry only got 1 picture. Here is the other.