I think you mean droop, not drop. We need more information:

exact scope used?
exact scope base used?
exact scope rings used?
how far is the group center below the point of aim at what yardage?


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Did you mount the scope to the barrel or the receiver? Barrel mount is the best

 

…Barrel mount is the best.

Because….all barrels are drilled and tapped for scope mounts? Okay.




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Highly unlikely. Barrel droop on standard 1022 s occurs when the slip fit is not tight, either the hole in the receiver is too big , or the barrel tennon is too small , and the V block actually pulls the barrel downward when tightened. And then the gun shoots low. Since a take down doesnt use this method of barrel attachment , but rather is attached via a locking mechanism and a screw on retainer there is no way for it to go crooked .

First id check the optic, then the mounts, Did you get a moa rail / rings and reverse? Is the scope touching the gun?
Asfor barrel mounting being better, not in my experience. The gizmo that Ruger attaches to the barrel is smaller than a rail on the receiver and imho , less supportive of the the optic than a rail on the top of the receiver , and the cantilevered rail resembles a diving board, and makes assemble and disassembly and storage more difficult. for a red dot fine, but a scope ,nope.

 

Starting troubleshooting with the easiest fix, is the barrel connection ring tight enough? I run mine so that I can barely get it on/off. After that I'd look at the optic mounts.

 

I'm using a Weaver Base and a 3X9 BUGBUSTER with the quick detachable Mounts.
Base is on the receiver.

 

I'm using a Weaver Base and a 3X9 BUGBUSTER with the quick detachable Mounts.
Base is on the receiver.

Put a Picatinny base/ rail on

 

Bug Buster website says the mounts provided will fit either type mount.
But it's worth a try...