Which sights are those?

 

Front sight is a Tech Sight with a KNS AR15 .034 dia ball post. The rear is this part

http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/ruger10-22-gi-style-m1-garand-rear-sight-base.aspx

with an M1 Garand rear sight assemby installed to it.

I think the part from Sarco was a buyout part from Kingston Armory.

I will end up fitting a National Match aperture at some point. It will help tight the groups some.

 

I have comparable groups from my home-build version, good enough for funnin’ around Ive found out.
What flash ‘hider’ ya got and any tricks to getting it fit with the TS?

 

This is the flash hider.

https://www.ncstar.com/optics-acc/accessories/ruger-muzzle-brakes/am1022bs-muzbrkrug-1022shortblk

It required just a little filing at the rear adjacent to the side screws on the Tech Sight.

 

Did you use standard or extended post front sight.

 

That one is standard height but it is extended up about as far as it can go, because of that I did order an extended height post last night so I can get some adjustment range back.

 

Ive got a std post down as far as it will go with the rear sight I have; the barrel ‘droop’ has a huge bearing on what height post any particular set up will need. Both my oem carbine barrel shanks measure the same and are a loose fit in the oem receiver, the mounting v-block pulls the barrel down. I can fine tune the front sight height by shims or not in the mount screw lug.
All that to say, yours may be totally different.

 

I contributed it to the Garand sight being taller than the Tech Sight rear sight, although I didn't exactly compare them.

 

That gave me the idea to convert a 10/22 I have in a folding stock which I do not care for. I have managed to locate all the parts, including one of those sight bases from Kingston Armory,via ebay. The seller says the holes will have to be enlarged to 3/8" for the M1 sight to fit. Did you have this problem?

I always wanted a M1 Carbine, but they have gotten so expensive as has ammo, and this looks like a fun little gun. The one I will be converting is also stainless, and at this point I am wishing it were blued, but I can always get another in blue and convert this one back.

 

I have managed to locate all the parts, including one of those sight bases from Kingston Armory,via ebay. The seller says the holes will have to be enlarged to 3/8" for the M1 sight to fit. Did you have this problem?

The rear sight mount is cheaper here.

http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/ruger10-22...ight-base.aspx

I did not have to enlarge the holes in the sight base to fit the M1 Garand reproduction sight I bought.

 

Try this link. It shows available on mine.

http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/ruger10-22-gi-style-m1-garand-rear-sight-base.aspx

 

Thanks, went back and cancelled the ebay order, and have one of these coming. Saved about $25.

I don't know why it showed up unavailable at first.

 

After I fit the rear sight I was using I measured the extremes of adjustment in it and went for the lower end of it to determine front sight height. I made an L shaped length of heavy copper wire and taped it to the muzzle end. By shooting and clipping the wire down I found my front sight height and sent a mssg to Tech Sights late one afternoon, by the next mid-morning I had an answer specific to my inquiry range of adj. available on the front sight (GREAT customer service). It quickly weeded out the extra tall option for me.
I can shorten my front post if needed, not quite ready to do that. And this new gen TS is nicely made.

 

What finish did you use on that rear sight base? From the few pictures from suppliers it appears to be raw steel. I am thinking of Brownell's Aluma-Hyde Parkerizing grey.

 

The part is steel. It does have some bare machined areas on it and some parkerized.

I used Birchwood/Casey Super Blue on it to finish it.

 

I did some thinking over the last couple of days, and decided I wanted one to look as much like a true M 1 carbine as possible, so dispensed with the idea of converting my stainless rifle.

I ordered a receiver, a TI/ Pike trigger group( CNC machined with Ruger BX componets inside) I had thought of Kidd, but do not like the more modern shape of their trigger guard, and placing their trigger in one of the TI CNC milled housings is iffy, been there and done that, the couple I did were too tight and took a lot of work to make them function properly. Got a blued barrel coming so should have myself a nice little mid summer project in a couple of weeks.

 

Cool, do share some photos when you get it all together. I do really like the Kidd triggers, but I too wish they had a more tradition trigger guard option. I do have a Pile trigger housing that I put Kidd trigger kit components in.


I went out shooting to with friends and everyone really liked the look and performance of this little carbine. The factory stuff is very accurate. The aftermarket sights are great. Fun making shots with irons.

 

Cool, do share some photos when you get it all together. I do really like the Kidd triggers, but I too wish they had a more tradition trigger guard option. I do have a Pile trigger housing that I put Kidd trigger kit components in.

I went out shooting to with friends and everyone really liked the look and performance of this little carbine. The factory stuff is very accurate. The aftermarket sights are great. Fun making shots with irons.

I have a couple of Kidd triggers in I guess earlier Pike housings, or Tactical Innovations housings and like them, just don't like the looks of the Kidd trigger guard on anything.

I have a M-1 Garand, 30-06 and love the sights. Fifty years ago I was on a college ROTC rifle team and learned to shoot aperture sights and never looked back. Most of my Marlin lever actions have Lyman receiver sights as do several others. A big Browning 1885 single shot 45-70 has Solu tang sights. At almost 73 years old and beginning to notice the development of cataracts, the mid barrel leaf sights are not as good as they used to be.

I have a safe place over at my sister's house and like to take the M-1 and bounce tin cans around at 40-50 yards or explode dirt clods with my little Marlin 39a.

The way the weather has been doing around here, we hit 102 the other day, I may just be content with building it up this summer and waiting until fall to shoot it. I picked up a S&W hand ejector in 32-20 to match a little Marlin 1894 CL in that caliber, and have been wanting to shoot it but just have not had a chance to get out.

 

I recently did my first 10/22 std. carbine as a ‘sorta M1’ in the Liberty Training Rifle style. It is on the cheap and very satisfactory in look and function. The LTR is a great way to start and go farther (read = more mods/$) as you want.

 

These are my WW2 builds.

 

Those are great!

Details on the Thompson?

 

USPS delivered my stock a few minutes ago and I an astonished. It's on the dark side like an older GI stock, but the butt area is totally flame and crotch grain wood.

 

Let’s see some photos :bthumb:

 

LorenatBMS, where did you get the rest of the M1 Garand rear sight parts? I'm not familiar with those sights, what other parts are needed?

 

Here is one source.

https://www.ammogarand.com/rearsightparts.html

Ebay has some sellers too.

Google search for M1 Garand rear sight assembly.

 

Thank you.

 

My parts keep rolling in. The TI/ Pike arms trigger group with Ruger BX innards came in today. I wanted a metal trigger instead of the standard BX plastic model so had ordered the Pike arms CNC milled BX trigger. I have not done enough trigger groups often enough to remember all the tricks and was having trouble with the sear & disconnector and finally remembered I needed a slave pin. I took the trigger out to the garage and was looking for something close to the right diameter and spotted an old q-tip. cutf the end off and a perfect fit. I left it long until I had the sear spring and disconnector in then cut it just short and it made getting the trigger back in a breeze. I may have to modify the bolt hold back, release so I can pull the operating handle to release the bolt, but that's for another day.


I must have gotten lucky, the TI website states that trigger pull should be 2.5 lbs + or - 0.5. My old fashioned Timeny gage says a bit over 1.5 lbs. That's holding the trigger group in one hand to block the leaver and pulling the trigger with the gauge.


My M 1 sight and bolt also arrived, so now the only thing remaining is the receiver.

I remembered an old standard birch carbine stock from one of the first rifles I had, and went back and upped the order on the receiver to two so I can finish out what will look like a standard Ruger carbine at a later date. This stock has a lot of figure for a birch stock, I had refinished it although it has never been used, and it has a lot of tiger striping the full length of the stock.

 

What sling did you use.

I got one of these

https://www.worldwarsupply.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=84_88&product_id=477

and it's too thick to fit down into the slot with the oiler, I'm thinking of cutting a smaller diameter piece of steel rod and using as a keeper in the buttstock slot. I could modify the stock but would rather not do that.

 

I purchased a sling and oiler just like that one.

Like yours the sling would not slip through the stock with the oiler in place. I used a Dremel with a small rotory burr and cut some relieve on the front edge of the slot in the stock. Just enough relieve so the sling would slip through with the oiler and one side of the sling already through the slot. It didn't take much.

 

I got that fixed, and finally got my receivers in today. My grandson expressed an interest in trying shooting, and I had an old birch stock for a standard carbine, that has a lot of tiger stripe, so decided to go ahead and fix him up a carbine with good parts. Back to my M1 carbine type, went down to the local gunshop and got some screws to attach the base to the receiver and then the problems began. It seems like either the elevation shaft is not straight or the holes for the elevation and windage knobs are not parallel, because it really binds tight when I get it together. I finally polished those holes a bit and that makes it a lot better, and my get a new cratex tip for my little hand polisher out tomorrow and try some more, just a bit at a time. At this point it took me a lot of time this afternoon, with a time out for a nap to be able to assemble the sight so the windage mark is centered.


I think i'm going to like this one, at a glance from a few feet away it looks very similar to a true M1 carbine, not exact, and the smaller Ruger BX magazine fits the profile nicely, not too long and a bit better than a flush fit rotary magazine.


I had found a couple of the 50th anniversary receivers on gunbroker and was impressed with the casting quality, they were very smooth inside, no extraneous casting marks, and a light coating of paint , very thin and smooth. I just applied some dry spray lube to the bolt and have been cycling it by hand and it is really smoothing in nicely.

Now I am waiting on a charging handle for the one I am fixin up for the grandson, and it looks as though it may be here tomorrow.

 

It seems like either the elevation shaft is not straight or the holes for the elevation and windage knobs are not parallel, because it really binds tight when I get it together. I finally polished those holes a bit and that makes it a lot better, and my get a new cratex tip for my little hand polisher out tomorrow and try some more, just a bit at a time. At this point it took me a lot of time this afternoon, with a time out for a nap to be able to assemble the sight so the windage mark is centered.

I found that the elevation and windage knobs both ran very smooth without the sheetmetal spring clip dust cover in place.

Looking closer at it the dust cover is causing interference with the moving base of the sight. I did some hand forming and BBTF (beat bash to fit) with a dead blow mallet until the arced sides of the dust cover were flush with the stationary sight base sides.

It runs smooth after getting the dust cover formed correctly.