we're talking .22 LR right?

since you will engage targets out to 100-200 yards. I would go with the 20 MOA and Burris Signature rings, the ones with the inserts.

Yes, you will be able to zero at 50 yards. I have 30 MOA rails on two of my CZ's and can easily zero at 50.

 

I agree with the above JW22:
It depends on how much vertical adjustment is in your scope. General rule of thumb if you are going to use a canted rail is use one that's half the adjustment in your scope. If I read it correctly your scope has 103 MOA vertical adjustment. If my ballistic calculator is correct for a 22lr bullet with velocity of 1080 fps you need 46.2 MOA of elevation. Your scope may be able to do that with a zero rail. Me, I'd get a 20 to 30 MOA rail but that's just me. I have a 30 MOA rail, my scope has 90 MOA vertical adjustment and I can dial to 350 yards and I'm zeroed at 50 yards.

 

What is the amount of total elevation adjustment in that scope?
Whatever it is, remember that the far extremes of that at top and bottom is a place you should not go, so the total range of adj is somewhat less than the specs (on any scope).
Then consider that the total range is figuring with a 0-moa mounting and the reticle centered, at that 1/2 the adj range is up from center and 1/2 down. If the rifle -0-'s at 50yd with a 0-moa rail and the reticle mostly centered you 'lost' all that down capability of the adj range; ie, will never use it.
Ime, most of my older 1" tube scopes dont have enough adj range up to really get past 150yd mounted on a std rail/bases; not good for the 200yd silhouette shoot I attend (hold over of a ram high is not very effective for me).
I would do better with a 20moa rail overall; I dont believe sig-rings would be required.
Point being, maximize as much of the internal adjustment range of the scope as possible.

 

Point being, maximize as much of the internal adjustment range of the scope as possible.

SOrry for reviving the thread, but there was good information here.

First rule mentioned was 1/2 of height of scope adjustment for canted rail - this would be a 15MOA mount for a 30MOA adjustable scope.

Based on last statement re: maximizing, I would want to match the scopes internal adjustment to the MOA of the base?

Example - Bushnell MATCH PRO ED 5-30X56 RIFLESCOPE on a 30MOA rail as the Match Pro has 30MOA of internal adjustment. Would be able to zero at 15yards+, right?

 

Thank you folks, I appreciate the advice.

 

When I put my scope in tally style rings. I could get 38 MOA on the turrets from a 50 yard zero. My 200 yard setting was 24 MOA, at around 265 I ran out of elevation.
I installed a 20 MOA and have 58 MOA elevation left at 50 yard zero. Maybe 335 to 350 possible now. They drop fast at range.
Most of my initial range testing was with GECO semi auto, probably 1100 fps stuff.

 

Go for the 20 MOA, shouldn't have any effect at closer range for you but will help you stretch out depending on how much travel your scope has.

 

Go with the 20 MOA, it will give you options later. The SWFA scopes have a ton of elevation and windage adjustment and excellent reticles in either mil or moa, so you should be able to cover just about anything between that scope and the 20 MOA rail.

 

Thanks again!

 

The 1/2 rule is because a scopes Vertical adjustment is 1/2 above the center and 1/2 below. So a 20 moa rail should be used on a scope that has no more than 40 moa of adjustment, since 1/2 of that is a ove the center.

 

20MOA rails and higher are for longer ranges, above 600yds. It gives you more elevation control at distance. For under 600yds. go with a 0MOA. Good Luck!

 

Welcome to RFC!

Are you still talking about rimfire?

Your advice is in line for some centerfire rifles.

 

0 moa did Not even get me to 200yd (as I posted above), Real World Actual Shooting.
Fwiw, I recently set a new to me scope up with intensions of reaching 'out there'. First thing I did was center the scope adjustment using the 'mirror method'; then I knew where center of the range really is.
Then I adjusted it down to 1/4 'off the bottom'; that is where I want my 'up adjustment' to start from at 50yd.
Then I calculated my adjustment for correction I to get a -0- (still knowing that was a straight line setting that did not take into consideration ammo trajectory).
Now I have a tidy 50yd -0-, still have some down adjustment and can pretty much maximize the up adjustment.
The point is, the crosshairs center does not have to be in the center of the scope adjustment range up/down.

 

I run a 60MOA rail on two of my Vudoo's and with the Razor Gen III I get 30 mils of elevation with a 50 yard zero. I dial out to 550 yards with that set up.
My BR Vudoo has a 0 MOA rail and a Golden Eagle on it - I only use it for bench shooting at 50 yards and 100 yards.

 

If I use a 20 MOA rail, will that present any problems If I want to shoot the rifle at 50 yards?

Depending on what scope you choose,,,
You might (stress on might) run out of adjustment trying to zero at 50 yards.

I put a 25 MOA rail on my CZ-457,,,
And mounted a Vortex scope with a 30mm tube,,,
I came close to running out of down adjustment zeroing at 50 yards.

I have since been told that if the scope had a 1" tube,,,
I probably would have run out of adjustment.

I don't know of any way to determine if it will work beforehand.

I would call or e-mail the scope manufacturer,,,
They could probably tell you the facts.

Aarond

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