I was out shooting this morning on a beautiful clear day. I have been working on a few 10/22's lately so was just dialing them in. One has a nice trigger job on it and it breaks super clean with a very light touch. I also brought out my 640KD which has been a bit of a safe queen lately. I forgot how hard the trigger is on it. I have no way of measuring the pull but it is WAY harder than even a stock 10/22. I would love to lighten it up so it is more fun to shoot. It is so hard to pull think there may even be something wrong with it. I was having trouble keeping my groups closer than about 2 inches at 75 yards. Any suggestions on how to go about it? I figured I could take it apart and study it for awhile before doing anything.This is a previous post that shows a picture of the rifle. http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=358562
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Posted by... mossaddict
341 trigger fix
The easiest way to fix the trigger on the 341 is to send it to me and i will exchange it for one that i have fixed that will break at 32oz.
I will do this for... PM him for details!!!
You have to move the anchor point of the lower pin. This gives you more leverage on the trigger.
Posted by... mossaddict
Yes i moved the anchor point. I moved it about .270 C-C and the pin is 1/8
The spring was pushing at the top of the trigger and moving the anchor points you have to put the spring pushing the trigger at the bottom. There is not enough room to put it at the top of the trigger. You have to have some pressure on the sear to make it engage with the hammer for it to cock. I use the same spring . The trick is to get it where it will put that pressure on the trigger. I cut some of of the end's off the spring and pull that end down and put it the existing holes. Hope this will help
Posted by... Metaleer
Make sure any side to side play is taken out of the trigger so that the pull is straight back and does not wiggle. Also add a trigger shoe. What sights are you going to use? Believe it or not I shot a modified 46M (mostly trigger work) for many years as a youth and used it to help obtain Distinguished Expert at 50 feet. Make sure also that he can get his face into the rifle so he can see the sights. An adjustable butt plate would also help him (up for prone and down for standing). You're working with him and supporting him in his efforts is probably the greatest thing you can do to help him.
For more info on your 640 trigger search Torpedoman's, Mossaddict and Metaleer's posts. The info on moving a pivot pin in the trigger group has been verified to me and seems to be a common way across numerous makes and models to reduce trigger pull. Hope this helps!!!
God Bless, Frank.
341 trigger fix
The easiest way to fix the trigger on the 341 is to send it to me and i will exchange it for one that i have fixed that will break at 32oz.
I will do this for... PM him for details!!!
You have to move the anchor point of the lower pin. This gives you more leverage on the trigger.
Posted by... mossaddict
Yes i moved the anchor point. I moved it about .270 C-C and the pin is 1/8
The spring was pushing at the top of the trigger and moving the anchor points you have to put the spring pushing the trigger at the bottom. There is not enough room to put it at the top of the trigger. You have to have some pressure on the sear to make it engage with the hammer for it to cock. I use the same spring . The trick is to get it where it will put that pressure on the trigger. I cut some of of the end's off the spring and pull that end down and put it the existing holes. Hope this will help
Posted by... Metaleer
Make sure any side to side play is taken out of the trigger so that the pull is straight back and does not wiggle. Also add a trigger shoe. What sights are you going to use? Believe it or not I shot a modified 46M (mostly trigger work) for many years as a youth and used it to help obtain Distinguished Expert at 50 feet. Make sure also that he can get his face into the rifle so he can see the sights. An adjustable butt plate would also help him (up for prone and down for standing). You're working with him and supporting him in his efforts is probably the greatest thing you can do to help him.
For more info on your 640 trigger search Torpedoman's, Mossaddict and Metaleer's posts. The info on moving a pivot pin in the trigger group has been verified to me and seems to be a common way across numerous makes and models to reduce trigger pull. Hope this helps!!!
God Bless, Frank.
Yes, the biggest thing is safety. No one wants a firearm that can be fired without the trigger being pulled.
For my 640, I reduced the area of the sear that contacts the hammer to reduce the trigger pull to a manageable, but safe level (slightly heavier then my stock 10/22). This was my first real trigger job, so I took it easy.
For my 640, I reduced the area of the sear that contacts the hammer to reduce the trigger pull to a manageable, but safe level (slightly heavier then my stock 10/22). This was my first real trigger job, so I took it easy.
640 trigger
![Image]()
![Image]()
I have been testing some of the triggers that i have been working on and this is what i came up with. I put the trigger in a old 342 KB that I had bought for parts.
I held it by the barrel and let it fall 30" from the floor and did this 5 times with safty taped back And it did not fire. I held it with the stock and did the same thing and it still did not fire. I would say this is safe.
I replaced that trigger wth another one that i had worked on and it failed the test.
I had polished the sear and after two drops it would fire. I reshaped the sear with
a small file and it pased this time. It woulden't fire after 6 drops. That goes to show you you can get things too slick.
It takes more time but will chech all that i do from here on out
I made this test without the bolt installed that way i can see when the hammer has fallen.
NMCA # 689:AR15firin
I have been testing some of the triggers that i have been working on and this is what i came up with. I put the trigger in a old 342 KB that I had bought for parts.
I held it by the barrel and let it fall 30" from the floor and did this 5 times with safty taped back And it did not fire. I held it with the stock and did the same thing and it still did not fire. I would say this is safe.
I replaced that trigger wth another one that i had worked on and it failed the test.
I had polished the sear and after two drops it would fire. I reshaped the sear with
a small file and it pased this time. It woulden't fire after 6 drops. That goes to show you you can get things too slick.
It takes more time but will chech all that i do from here on out
I made this test without the bolt installed that way i can see when the hammer has fallen.
NMCA # 689:AR15firin
Ditto.I have a couple of spare 320/340 complete 'chassis'which look to be the same part numbers as the 640's and I have a 640KA so I'd like to try this on one of my spares and use it in the 640.
I have an old 640KD and can appreciate the trigger dilema. I just can't bring myself to "pin surgery" on the old tack-driver.
I searched Ebay for several months and finally came across an old Flagg Ace #11 trigger shoe (for M1 Garand). I had read somewhere that size-11 shoes would fit the 640...they were correct.
Of course, it didn't reduce the trigger pull a bit, but it sure feels like it did. Massive improvement over the stock trigger. More joy for me.
One note of caution: the trigger shoe must be removed before the action can be removed from the stock.
I searched Ebay for several months and finally came across an old Flagg Ace #11 trigger shoe (for M1 Garand). I had read somewhere that size-11 shoes would fit the 640...they were correct.
Of course, it didn't reduce the trigger pull a bit, but it sure feels like it did. Massive improvement over the stock trigger. More joy for me.
One note of caution: the trigger shoe must be removed before the action can be removed from the stock.
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