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Here is the skinny. I have a Ruger 10/22 with a birch stock from approx 1986? I have shot it a ton. I have a 3 X 9 Redfiled scope mounted on it. I really enjoy working in the basement on my "kitchen table gunsmithing projects." :D I would like to spend some time/labor to better my 10/22 vs. just spending money. What modifications should I make to my 10/22, without spending a lot of money? I pretty much want to keep the factory barrel, and factory birch stock. Mods like bedding the action, dremeling out little parts for the "Auto-bolt release", etc. are the kind of things I am interested in picking up. Well, what do you think? In the mean time, you should know I am in the process of reading/searching a bunch of old posts. Thanks.
 

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VQ Target Hammer would be a good first choice... $20 inthe bargin bin... or like $46 normally... cuts down your trigger pull by about half...
 

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You should be able to do the auto-bolt-release yourself. The VQ release I bought for $10 was not impressively made, but worked. Had I bothered to research how trivial the required mod to the stock item was I would have preferred doing it myself. You could add a clean-out hole to your receiver to permit your bore cleaning rod be inserted from the chamber end instead of through the crown. Polishing the bolt guide and the JB weld trick to get rid of the trigger pre-travel should all be do-able too. The Hornet or Barracuda style stocks will work with a tapered barrel--I believe. You would be able to quick change your 10/22 from a carbine to the "ultimate look" in one minute.
 

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You can get the VQ hammer from HawkTech for about $32-35 normally - free shipping.

Go to the tips & tricks section. If you're like me, you like to do most of the work yourself, so educate yourself on the function of the rifle as much as is possible, and put 'er into practice. I do all my own mods too.

  • Modify and polish all the engagement surfaces of the trigger group. There is a link in the Tips & Tricks section regarding trigger mods that should help you.
  • Modify the bolt if you have the machines/capability - and polish it. Swap out the extractor for a VQ or PC.
  • Freefloat the barrel.
  • Bed the action/barrel.
  • Clean all the plastic molding burrs out of your magazines, and clean them with dishsoap and hot water. Polish metal feed-ramp where bullets contact. Lube moving parts with dry-lube and reassemble.

There's more to be said of fine-tuning a rifle for fit and function, but the above list is fairly complete for things you can do on your own. Of course, this doesn't even include the myriad of things you can purchase for a 10/22, nor does it include the "must-do's" like a buffer. Hope this helps.
 

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If you want my personal opinion, a scope trigger job, and lots of ammo is all that is needed. anything beyond that is just personal preference or someone who is convinced that something works better (or looks better) than something else. Extended mag release would be ok, but I see no need really. Never had any problems with the factory extractor so I see no need to change that. nothing wrong with factory stock and barrel. a bedding job would do no harm and would serve a purpose.
I'm not going to try to convince you to buy another barrel and stock and a bunch of other nonsense, because you don't need it, if you are not someone who sits on a bench seeing how tight of a group you can shoot. If it will shoot under a dime at 25 yards thats all I ask for. If I can head shoot a squirrel at 50+ thats all I ask for.
Just my .02
 

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22shooter,

very good theories, but i for one dont shoot my dinner except deer season. lol, nothing to shoot here xcept gophers. a lot of shooters will sit at a bench for hours on end fine tuning their equipment and themselves to shoot as best they can. it can be a fun sport also, and if a shooter wants to invest $1000 + so be it. as long as they are happy as you are with your gun.

btw, a rear sand bag may help shrink your groups. or try shooting at 50 + yds. may make a diff in bringing home dinner.








 

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Buy the hammer and buffer...

Welcome to RFC!!!

:Welcome:

There are a lot more parts you could replace if you really wanted to, but before you go and spend the money, may I suggest that you:

do some polishing...
http://home.earthlink.net/~nrwilson01/triggermods/

try the JB Weld trick...
http://home.earthlink.net/~nrwilson01/jbweldtrickmyway/

and maybe even the BB Trick...
http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85435

Floating the barrel and bedding the action are also very good ideas.

Of course, feel free to spend the money and support the sponsors, but alot of the DIY in Tips & Tricks are pretty easy to follow and just take some time...good luck with your plinker!
 

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Really, all you need is a VQ Target Hammer, and a WK Bolt Buffer.

You can get both from WeaponKraft for pretty cheap, and they will make your 10/22 shoot better. Anything more is not really necessary unless you want to spend more money!

The 10/22 is a good gun right out of the box as far as many are concerned, but the Target Hammer and Bolt Buffer will smooth things out a bit!

Whatever you choose to do with your 10/22, the only thing that is really important is to ENJOY IT!


Good Shooting!
 

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RICOCHET said:
22shooter,

very good theories, but i for one dont shoot my dinner except deer season. lol, nothing to shoot here xcept gophers. a lot of shooters will sit at a bench for hours on end fine tuning their equipment and themselves to shoot as best they can. it can be a fun sport also, and if a shooter wants to invest $1000 + so be it. as long as they are happy as you are with your gun.

btw, a rear sand bag may help shrink your groups. or try shooting at 50 + yds. may make a diff in bringing home dinner.
totally understand, to each his own
 

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Dudes, dudes....

You guys are so quick to jump on the "gotta do this 'cuz it's the best bang for the buck" answers!! I don't think there's a human on the planet anymore that hasn't read about getting a bolt buffer and VQ hammer. Can we agree that you'd have to have been simultaneously living underneath a rock and in a cave to not know that answer?

Now, reread the original post, and barring that Bosshoff may be new to this website, his questions were what he could do to trick out his rifle HIMSELF, not what your favorite bolt-on part is. Quit giving the same ol' info out over and over like a broken record, and actually help him.
 

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help!!!!

go to the tips and tricks section of the forum and you will find everything that you need there thats what i did. also you mite want to do a seach for "project ten twenty two" i think its called. it was built by ME! here in missouri . that ought to do it i think. keep :snipersmi
 

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MinusB said:
Dudes, dudes....

You guys are so quick to jump on the "gotta do this 'cuz it's the best bang for the buck" answers!! I don't think there's a human on the planet anymore that hasn't read about getting a bolt buffer and VQ hammer. Can we agree that you'd have to have been simultaneously living underneath a rock and in a cave to not know that answer?

Now, reread the original post, and barring that Bosshoff may be new to this website, his questions were what he could do to trick out his rifle HIMSELF, not what your favorite bolt-on part is. Quit giving the same ol' info out over and over like a broken record, and actually help him.
Hey man

Like that post helped out a lot dude...just like this one. :rolleyes:

Without spending a lot of money you can polish everything up with that Dremel of yours. Do the auto bolt release, get a stone and lighten the trigger pull, free float your barrel and grind some metal off the barrel band so it doesn't touch the barrel which usually improves accuracy.
 

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.22 shooter said:
If you want my personal opinion, a scope trigger job, and lots of ammo is all that is needed. anything beyond that is just personal preference or someone who is convinced that something works better (or looks better) than something else. Extended mag release would be ok, but I see no need really. Never had any problems with the factory extractor so I see no need to change that. nothing wrong with factory stock and barrel. a bedding job would do no harm and would serve a purpose.
I'm not going to try to convince you to buy another barrel and stock and a bunch of other nonsense, because you don't need it, if you are not someone who sits on a bench seeing how tight of a group you can shoot. If it will shoot under a dime at 25 yards thats all I ask for. If I can head shoot a squirrel at 50+ thats all I ask for.
Just my .02
Darn, I was glad to read this! I believe it so, so much. I've never done more than VQ hammer/sear, plus extractor I may or may not have needed, and my 10/22 DSP and Mag have done great jobs for me. Glad to see someone else who feels the same.
eljay
 

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BOSSHOFF said:
Here is the skinny. I have a Ruger 10/22 with a birch stock from approx 1986? I have shot it a ton. I have a 3 X 9 Redfiled scope mounted on it. I really enjoy working in the basement on my "kitchen table gunsmithing projects." :D I would like to spend some time/labor to better my 10/22 vs. just spending money. What modifications should I make to my 10/22, without spending a lot of money? I pretty much want to keep the factory barrel, and factory birch stock. Mods like bedding the action, dremeling out little parts for the "Auto-bolt release", etc. are the kind of things I am interested in picking up. Well, what do you think? In the mean time, you should know I am in the process of reading/searching a bunch of old posts. Thanks.
I haven't read anyone ask the question about what kind of tools you have or your mechanical ability. As I read your question you want to do some hand work not necessarily to save money but to do it yourself. There are several things you can do that has been mentioned like beding and floating that doesn't require a bunch of money. Here are some other ideas if you can do them yourself or maybe someone that hs the right machines.

1. Polish parts. Do the trigger parts. Make sure the holes have no burrs and the edges are nice and smooth. Make sure contact areas are flat and true. You can read some sections on how to do some other mods if you are willing to try.

2. Bolt work. Ok, some thing here. De-burr the edges and make sure they smoothly in the receiver. If you or a friend have a mill you can work the bolt face. Machine the bolt face square to the bolt sides and top and bottom. You want a full contact surface with the barrel. If you are able to use a mill then cut the face so the rim pocket is .044ths deep (roughly the thinkness of the .22 rim). Also you can put a nice radius on the bottom rear of the bolt to ease the hammer cocking. Reworking the bolt is probably the single most important thing you can do to a 10/22.

3. Bolt Handle cocking rod. This rod can be polished to remove any marks or serrations and will allow the bolt handle to work smoothly.

4. If you are so inclined you can even strip and reshape or refinish your stock. You can cut or taper the muzzle end to do away with the barrel band. If you are able you can even add a nice wood accent to the tip and to the bottom of the grip like the expensive hunting rifles. Also, yo can square up the butt and add a nice recoil pad to add to teh custom look.

5. Barrel. Here is a cool mod that will give you a one-of-a-kind look. If you have access to a lathe cut you barrel back to 17.5" to remove the front sight and recrown. If you shorten the stock by removing where the barrel band goes then you rifle will come back into proportion by doing this plus a good crown will help with better accuracy.

I hope this gives yo a few ideas to play with that won't cost you a bunch of money. Also, for the most part if you do mess up (except with the bolt) you can buy parts cheap to replace any you might mess up or you can just replace them and build up your 10/22.

Have fun.
 
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