Rimfire Central Firearm Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What part of the hammer do you file on to make it better, also better in what way? I was thinking of having my gunsmith do a trigger job on it $125.00, But I see there is alot of info on here, I just need some how too's, I have had the trigger and all that out before no big deal. So if there is a way of doing a home trigger work i would like to make that a start.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
845 Posts
Hello varmintslayer,

By your first sentence, I would recommend you see a gunsmith. It may be the way the question was posed, but I have to assume you are new to 10/22's. I would seek out friends that have prior experience or a willing gunsmith to ask questions of. I hesitate to offer help in the event a task description is misconstrued and an untoward incident occurs.:(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,533 Posts
A Volquartsen Hammer will drop the trigger pull by more than half. Usually they end up being around 2 1/2 pounds with it.

Definitely the safest way until you become accustomed to the way the 10/22 action works..

Ron
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Just take the trigger group out and take it all a part. It isn't hard at all. I looked at the diagram and listen to others and I thought it was going to be a nightmare. It isn't. It is easy.

Stone, not file, the step to make it shorter on the hammer. You will have to stone lightly inside the step to take off any burrs. Make sure you use a small triangle shaped stone and take your time. Take some off then reassemble. Do this many times until you are close to happy. Then take the hammer out and use a buffing wheel on a bench grinder. Use some polishing compound and hold the hammer square to the wheel. It doesn't take much and you will make the hammer very shiney.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,533 Posts
Ranger Dave more or less layed it all out, but I have a suggestion to make. Take it all apart and lay it on the table in the order it sets inside the guard. Spend a little time studying it and figure out how things work. If you have any trouble understanding the process of how things are happening and why in there, I'd strongly suggest you NOT fool with trying to do it yourself.

Unless you fully understand how it works, you more than likely will be creating a dangerous gun. From the wording of your post, it seems obvious that you not only don't understand it, it appears you're not even sure of WHY you want to do it... in which case, you would be a lot better off NOT messing with it because if you don't understand how it works, how can you possibly think you can improve it?.

Stoning a trigger is a very precise, no room for mistakes kind of thing. It's not that hard to do, but there is a good reason the gunsmith wants the kind of money you quoted...

Although I personally think he's way out of line on the price, the point I'm trying to make still stands...

Ron
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
546 Posts
Way out of line on price...It sounds like he's replacing parts and charging you for labor. If you can disassemble the trigger group and reassemble it then cut the middle man (your 'gunsmith') and get an aftermarket hammer/sear/trigger or all 3. As has been stated in previous posts if you get a vol. hammer the trigger will probably be more than acceptable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hammer

Well first of all I know how the mechanism works not a problem, and I have had them out before , Im positive that I probaly could put all the pieces in a bag shake it up and put it back together in a decent manner, I havent honestly had it aprt in a 1 1/2 or so, and I was trying to picture in my mind what the hammer was doing inside while working to figure exactly how much to stone! I havee not seen a VQ product or other custom goodies for the ruger so I dont have anything to compare to like some of you have did. I mostly build rem 700's for long range shooting alot of the work on them i do my self except for barrell making.... Ill try this hammer out this weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,675 Posts
There is a hole in the side of the trigger guard that you can watch the hammer and sear operate. Spend a little time and see how everything fits and works together. You should be able to figure out what to do from there. Make sure to hold onto the hammer and keep it from swinging freely so the TG does not get damaged.

Due to some recent dialogs most here, myself included, are reluctant to specify exactly how to do what you are asking. The exact information is available in the past forums however and hopefully by the time you can find it you will be familiar enough with your 10-22 that you will either know how to do your own work or know that you need to seek the assistance of a local gunsmith. Good Luck and enjoy your time here. There is no better place to get information and help for your 10-22 than RFC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
845 Posts
Remember varmitslayer,

This trigger assembly resets under recoil. Firing pin follow in a bolt action is one round. Hammer follow in a semi auto is a couple to the whole mag. It's not that easy to control a full auto weapon when you're expecting it. Heaven help the spectators if the shooter loses control and drops the discharging firearm.

If you do a trigger job and it goes wrong - you are fully responsible for the damage it cause.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Just put 2 rounds in the clip if your worried about the chance of full auto.

Just take a bit off at a time. Put the trigger group back together and give it a try. The hammer takes a bit of stoning to get the weight to drop but once it does it doesn't take much for a big increase. Once you polish the hammer it also drops trigger weight. Go slow and take your time.

Once the weight started to come down I left it at that. If your looking to build a "super 10/22" I would opt for the whole trigger group replacement. For me the 10/22 is for ****s and giggles target shooting and hunting rifle all rolled up into one. Putting a lot of money into a 22 doesn't turn my crank thus I like the tips and tricks learned from Rimfire Central.

Just remeber if you screw up the hammer, just order a custom one. When I tackeled the hammer that was my thinking. If I made the hammer into a fishing sinker I was just going to order a custom hammer. No big deal.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Along these lines. I have done several, and my next will be a VQ hammer. Not that I don't like the resluts, or that it can't be done safely. I have yet to ruin one, and my triggers surprise everyone who shoots one of my rifles. The thing is, you'll be getting a VQ extractor, a Weaponcraft Kit, possibly Power Custom shims, not to mention stock and bbl. Its not that much more to get the VQ hammer, and a lot less tedious.

Anyone who has spent much time here at RFC, can tell you of my expoilts with new ideas. I simple love to tinker, but for the trigger pull, the VQ hammer is my new solution.

Funny that my first discovery of RFC, was in search of the best way to cure the stock trigger. Little did I know! :D :D :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
cjsdad said:
There is a hole in the side of the trigger guard that you can watch the hammer and sear operate.
This is not the case with the older rifles. I don't know when the change was made, but I have one that does not have the hole. This is a good thing to do. It will provide some intresting thoughts.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top