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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 40x benchrest rifle. Every so often, the bolt will get stiff to cock, or less frequently, to close. When it does this, I pull the bolt out, get out my Break-Free, and lube nooks and crannies on the bolt, wipe off excess, insert and cycle a few times, then pull it and wipe off any excess.

Is there a proper way? I've done this 3 times over about 700 rounds, which seem rather frequent to me.

Thanks,

Ben
 

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Ben, you did'nt mention lubing the lugs which should be done regularly, with a good bolt grease not breakfree. Your harder closing would imply you need to look at your cleaning discipline. You also do not need to be lubing "nooks and crannies" unless you want lube in your trigger.
 

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I take mine apart a couple of times a season and put some Brownells action lube on it (molybdenumdisulfide grease) on the camming surfaces and on the threads of the cocking piece. I use a light coat of Kroil mixed with ProShot One Step oil on the firing pin and spring, and wipe it off. I don't want to leave anything on the firing pin to gather dust of slow it's speed, or gunk up in general. I lube the locking lugs every week with the Action Lube from Brownells. They've been lapped in and I want them to stay as they are.
 

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If you look on the left hand side of the cocking piece you'll see a slot. I put a penny in this slot to hold tension on the firing pin spring and turn the bolt shroud and cocking piece counter clockwise to unscew the cocking piece and bolt shroud assemble. There is a tool you can buy for Rem. 700 bolt disassembly and it'd be worth it. The way I do it isn't so easy. To start off the first turn I put a flat blade of a screwdriver against teh falt spot of the firing pin shaft you'll see it toward the back of the notch cut out from the bottom of the bolt. I put pressure against this to unload the firing pin spring. What you do is press back on the pin shaft while turning the shroud counterclockwise past the camming slot. The springs are strong and a bolt diassembly tool would be much easier. My way works for me, but I have pretty strong hands, and I don't do it that often either. Maybe I'll wise up and get the tool one day. If I can help let me know.
Kent
 

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Ben, when one wants

lube to stay in place .............................. one needs to use grease, not oil. therefore the best bolt GREASE is what is needed. I use a Teflon suoer grease. Most oils will not stand up to the sheer force applied to things like locking lugs.

I touch up my bolt every tournament. Take it out of the gun and clean the exterior, then relube about every four tournaments. that binding you are experiencing is because the oil has run off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Kent the Gent- Thank you for typing that out. I just ordered one of the good bolt tools, the Kleinendorst.

Ron- I'm going to try some of the TW-25B I have in a syringe. Will probably tear down the bolt and see if there are any "yuckies" living in there first.

Thank you for all of the assistance, gentlemen,

Ben
 

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Ben-
You're most welcome. I just reread the post and realized the typos! I apologize for that. I should get one of the tools too, but I don't do it often enough to warrant one. I shot my 40X for 2 years without taking the bolt apart, and I shoot a lot of matches! You can grease the camming area without disassembly, and of course always keep grease on the locking lugs to keep 'em from wearing. I lapped the lugs on mine when it was new as I do on all Remington 700 actions--then keep good grease on 'em to keep the same and prevent headspace changes from worn lugs. The good thing is the actions and lugs are as hard as Chinese arithmetic, so they don't wear fast. They're probably the toughest rimfire action ever made--lots of bedding surface area too. I like 'em. :D Good luck with yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Kent-

Gee whiz, I don't know what all the fuss was about. Dropped the 40x bolt in my new Kleinendorst tool, flipped a lever, and that puppy just screwed right off. Not a bit of trouble :D

I seldom have the right tool for the job, so using it for once was a welcome change. :)

Didn't find anything ugly inside the bolt, wiped the crud off of the firing pin and sprayed it with a dry moly spray, then greased the threads, cocking pieces, and lugs with TW-25B, and called it good.

I welcome feedback, you've all been most helpful.

Ben
 

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Ben-
Glad it worked out for you. The tool definitely helps. The 40X's have strong firing pin springs, and pushing the cocking piece back far enough with your hand takes some doing, but it can be done. I need to get on of the tools myself, but like I said, I only take mine apart 'bout twice a season.
 
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