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im thinking about stripping the black off of it. im wondering about what to do about the metal underneath though. after stripping it im going to brush it with brillo pads or whatever you recommend is the best.
 

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Stripped, Polished, then................???????

Just waxed with an automotive wax to keep it from tarnishing. I will advise this..........Get ALL of the work completed before you polish if that's what you decide to do. After you polish, it will scratch very easliy. OR.. show scratches very easily is what really happens. But it really looks better than that factory silver or black paint.

hfly
 

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sand blasted mine to match the bead blast in my barrel flutes. looks the same after 2 years just a nice subdued finish. if you go this route make sure you plug the scope mount screw holes with factory plug screws as the threads are easily damaged by the blast media. keep :snipersmi
 

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nemohunter said:
sand blasted mine to match the bead blast in my barrel flutes. looks the same after 2 years just a nice subdued finish. if you go this route make sure you plug the scope mount screw holes with factory plug screws as the threads are easily damaged by the blast media. keep :snipersmi
Same here. I blasted it then immediately blew it clean of dust and clear coated. Looks sharp IMHO, much like "French Gray"..... (Did the same with my GM barrel with identical results...)

Dennis :cool:
 

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Has anybody tried Duracoat? I know some folks that have had good success with it on other firearms, including bonding to aluminum parts. I am going to have some TC barrels done soon, and had thought about having a stripped 10/22 receiver done at the same time.
 

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I polished mine.Goes very well with the SS bbl. and ultra glossy purple stock.
Polished the aluminum butt plate too.Still need to do the trigger group and I'm thinkin' about doin' the barrel,but with a silver scope,the bbl. kind'a lands in between,so it makes a nice transition from super shiny to satin.

Damned thing's turnin' into a pimp gun. :eek:

:D :D
BW
 

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RX7-2nr said:
im thinking about stripping the black off of it. im wondering about what to do about the metal underneath though. after stripping it im going to brush it with brillo pads or whatever you recommend is the best.
I used sandpaper going up to a very fine (1500 grit if I remember right) wet sanding paper to remove the finish and polish it up with a product called M.A.A.S. that I got from Ace hardware which has a protectant in it. Worked quite well and all I have to do is wipe it down now and then and the shine comes right back.

RX7-2nr said:
im going to srtip the reciever with either thinner or oven cleaner.

i thought the the aluminum would corrode without some kind of finish on it. i think i read that somewhere.
I'm only guessing but the oven cleaner may have something caustic in it that could etch the aluminum.

richlcampbell said:
Has anybody tried Duracoat? I know some folks that have had good success with it on other firearms, including bonding to aluminum parts. I am going to have some TC barrels done soon, and had thought about having a stripped 10/22 receiver done at the same time.
If this is the stuff Brownells sell I have used it on a pistol, but it does require heating the metal and as a result you do have to be carefull about heating aluminum parts, they sometimes tend to warp.

Dave Z.
 

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Chief Says : Glasbead blast is best to remove finish. chemicals streak and
are a PIA to apply evenly. plus then you must sand.
Beadblast best with low pressure , course media then medium pressure and fine media.
Brownells' Duracoat works bout like you would expect . You heat the item , paint , bake then redo several times. End result "baked enamel" better than spraycan job but still scratches easily. BEST paint = powdercoat

Finished receiver = I do nothing if I want the stainless matte look . add polish
if ya like it shinny . corode / tarnish = not mine.
 

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ChiefDave said:
Chief Says :

Brownells' Duracoat works bout like you would expect . You heat the item , paint , bake then redo several times. End result "baked enamel" better than spraycan job but still scratches easily. BEST paint = powdercoat
Looks like I'm not the only one who couldn't sleep! Agreed on the powder coating ..... best bet for the color of choice. Got a powder coating place down the road a little way, might have to give them a try someday.

Dave Z.
 

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I stripped my reciever Tues night. Used Bix for aluminum and the paint came off in about ten minutes. Cleaned up with soap and water and a nylon brush. Could have stopped there, it looked pretty good. Used a very fine Scoth Brite pad then some 0000 steel wool. Polished with Mother's Aluminum Wheel Polish. Came out nice, but I'm glad I stopped before it was a mirror.

In retrospect, I should have stopped with the Scoth Brite or done less steel wool- it was a better match for the Power Custom mount and GM stainless fluted.

Keep your strokes with the pad longwise parallel to the barrel and it can have a nice brushed look, more like the mount and barrel. If it get nicked or tarnished I'll probably re Scotch Brite it or sand balst it. Maybe clear coat it.
 

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airbrushed finishes

If you are wanting to add some color or even make it black again, I would suggest DuraCoat finishes. If you want something really durable, but slightly harder to work with, a Teflon/Moly coating like GunKote holds up really well. The down side to GunKote is having to bake it on in order to cure the finish, so anything that is not metal cannot be coated (note to self: remove plastic channel liner from Glock slide before baking!! big stink!!!). DuraCoat is available in every color imaginable and is air cured and can be clear coated in matte, satin or gloss. If I can be of any assistance with ether product, contact me directly. I use both finishes all the time on 1911's and Glock slides.
 

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ARSE,

yea, very easy if you are just using rattle cans. did my deer hunter; stock, bbl, scope, rcvr, the whole gun. either a scotch brite pad or around 240 / 320 wet dry paper. cut some stencils, get a couple diff colors, ( used KRYLON ) and go for it.
krylon dries fast and can be done in no time. needless to say, mask all areas that shouldn't be painted.

hope this helps and luck on your camo job.








 

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test a spot

Arse said:
Is it possible to scuff the black finish and repaint? I'm interested in a camo finish for the reciever and barrel.
You might need to test a small area (that does not show) to make sure the new finish plays nice with the old one. A few finishes will react with old paint and wrinkle and blister. Just a thought.
 
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