Wanting to get started reloading.

7311 Views 202 Replies 64 Participants Last post by SpirePoint, 27 d ago

PEASHOOTER67

Discussion Starter · 4 mo ago (Edited)

I will be starting out loading for two .22 calibers.
.223 and .22-250. Instead of buying a “starter kit” I wold rather buy the tools I will actually use and need.
What I’m looking for is a good list of what not just basic get you started but a list of quality tools I will actually really use, maybe not the best but not cheap or junk.

I don’t want to waste my money on cheap tools are tools I just won’t use. What I figured I’d load for first is my for my cz 527 .223.
Sooo let’s get our shopping list and get started.
The simpler the operation the better.
I’m good with hand priming btw

ps. In rifle I will probably only be loading
.223/5.56
.22-250
.308
In pistol
.38 special
.357 magnum
.380
.40
.45 acp

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lesptr

· #161 · 4 mo ago

Lerrab said:
lesptr, funny you should mention the blackout. I am going to be loading for a friend that has a one in a Ruger. He has a suppressor and wants to keep the ammo subsonic. He has already bought some bullets they are Maker bullets and don't remember the grain but they are 200 or thereabouts. I don't know what he is shooting for factory loads but he says they don't shoot well. Would you have happened to try the maker bullets I mentioned.

Sorry no.
The only rounds I’ve tried are 125gn Sierra match kings. I also have some Sierra hunting bullets in 125gn, (Game king?) but I’ve not tried them yett.

For my subs, I shoot factory Hornady 208gn amax. They shoot really well from a factory aac 9in barrel, suppressed.

Hodgdon H110 was supposedly the go to powder for black out, but I got horrible results. Switched to an IMR powder (number escapes me at the moment). Not sure what the recommendations are for subs.
I do have some of the CFE BLK, but I haven’t revisited loading for the 300BLK.
I got very sidetracked with B14R and nrl22.

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mathews691

· #162 · 4 mo ago

Costs, around here (kansas city area)

You are starting to see prices come down a tick. I am an IMR guy, so that is the prices I know. Generally around $48 for my go to powders, Varget 4895, 3031, 4195. Primers, all are still not just sitting on the shelf. Last I bought was at $120 per thousand, and at the time that was a good price. Now I see them at a tick over 100. Before covid they ran around 60 for primers, and 30 for powder. I doubt we will ever see that again.

mathews691

· #163 · 4 mo ago

lesptr said:
Based on the screen shots I posted above, when it comes to pistol rounds, I am definitely reloading. Shoot, retrieve, tumble, size-deprime-prime, powder, bullet, crimp, one loaded round.

Loading for the 300BLK is much more involved. I gone down the rabbit hole chasing the best accuracy I can get. Tried different powders & charges, different bullets, different seating depths, etc., and I’m still not happy with the results. I’m getting no better results than what I consider plinking grade ammo.

It’s truly been an exercise in frustration.

You are looking at it wrong, it is not frustration, it is the fun part. Now there are times when I NEED to test loads, but I only want to shoot. You need to take all your garbage with you to do the testing, chrono, scope, notebooks...and all I want to do is bang steel. I have finally gotten over it and know I can always roll some more if I need to. Once and a while something really good will happen and I wish I had all that stuff to see the numbers, but I can always make that cake again.

I have a carcano, Italy's WWII rifle. With factory it was minute of basket ball accurate. With my loads it became minute of softball.

When you can get a group like this from a rifle made in 1889 you feel like you have done something. The last one is a pic of all the "garbage". You can see the other loads with the paste dots over them.

This is what it is about, making it better. The other part is shooting things you just can't buy ammo for. If my collection was limited to what is available I would have under a third of what I have.

White Blue Azure Sleeve Line

Plant Grass Wood Gas Machine

Plant Outdoor bench Table Picnic table Nature

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lesptr

· #164 · 4 mo ago

I do have a magneto speed now. I have never shot any of the blk loads over a chrony. But like I said, this rimfire stuff has taken over. I don’t k ow how long it’s been since I shot any 9, 45, 38, 32s&w long or 300 blk.
I did take my 308 out, but only because I swapped the scope.

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PEASHOOTER67

Discussion Starter · #165 · 4 mo ago

mathews691 said:
Costs, around here (kansas city area)

You are starting to see prices come down a tick. I am an IMR guy, so that is the prices I know. Generally around $48 for my go to powders, Varget 4895, 3031, 4195. Primers, all are still not just sitting on the shelf. Last I bought was at $120 per thousand, and at the time that was a good price. Now I see them at a tick over 100. Before covid they ran around 60 for primers, and 30 for powder. I doubt we will ever see that again.

For a pound or a what I’m going to call a gallon as I don’t remember the weight?
From what I read I’m pretty sure I’m going to start with a ball powder from IMR.

Lerrab

· #166 · 4 mo ago

Pea, what BALL powder from IMR you have in mind ? Are you thinking of W748 for the 69 grain in the .223?

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PEASHOOTER67

Discussion Starter · #167 · 4 mo ago

Lerrab said:
Pea, what BALL powder from IMR you have in mind ? Are you thinking of W748 for the 69 grain in the .223?

Yes, sounds right. I would have to go back and look it back up. I read a LOT so not sure where I read it.

Lerrab

· #168 · 4 mo ago

I think you have picked a very good powder for the bullet weight and cartridge. It gives very good accuracy and load density. It is a Winchester branded powder. Winchester along with IMR are under the Hodgon umbrella.

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fourbore

· #169 · 4 mo ago

Lerrab said:
I think you have picked a very good powder for the bullet weight and cartridge. It gives very good accuracy and load density. It is a Winchester branded powder. Winchester along with IMR are under the Hodgon umbrella.

I did not know this. I guess we can say goodby to any semblance of competition amoung most powder types I use. No more Dupont? They also control the Blackhorn209 supply with an MSRP of $91 for 8 ounces! And I doubt you will find anyone selling it that low. Ha! Low?

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grg

· #170 · 4 mo ago

Peashooter,
I think you will enjoy reloading especially if its mainly for plinking and hunting. I have been reloading for close to 40 years and love it. There is a lot of good info given but quite often the info or choices we give are what works for us. Those that think its work are quite often those doing it out of necessity alone or the sheer volume makes it work. I shoot probably a few thousand cf rounds a year so not overwhelming like a competition shooter loading that amount in a month.

I think you are like some of us that are always watching for a great piece of equipment at a good price, that's what a lot of my equipment is but has been upgraded many times by that next deal. Some of my favorites are
Press- C&H 333 coax style press with 3 stations. Awsome press for what I do. Wouldnt hesitate to buy a Forster Coax or Redding T7 and a number of others.
Scale- Ohouse 10-10 I have 4 others but this is my favorite as it settles so fast and is accurate! If you watch they can be bought cheap in like new condition.
Primer tool- I have worn out a number of them and a couple years ago bought a Frankford Arsenal hand primer tool, way better than m Lee, Rcbs etc. Well built, adjustable seating depth and comes with everything needed.
Digital Powder Dispenser- Frankford Arsenal Intellidropper. I have checked it and checked it and mine has been very accurate for $180
Powder Dispenser- Custom Products or Harrolds. They work so well and will cut IMR powders pretty well.
Case trimming- Forster but I am old school on some of this.
Annealer-Built my own but next I will buy the Burstfire next. Has case prep built in, reviews are outstanding and price is super. Believe me, annealing is necessary and helps.
Dies: A number of brands but buy good Forster or previously Bonanza whenever I get a chance
Manuals- Grab old manuals of every maker as well as several new manuals. Old info comes in very handy when looking up loads for some of the older cartridges. You are a reader so you will never regret it. Some of the new info has also gotten very conservative on their load data.

Lots of other small items you will find yourself picking up. Last year I was looking for a set of dies for a rifle, saw them as well as brass, bullets and a complete starter reloading kit in a box. The guy took fifty dollars for everything. I gave most of it away and feel I still got a great deal. If you figure out what you want put a WTB add up as some people like me have tons of extra stuff sitting that would work well. For instance I have 4 Powder dispensers, 2 presses, 3 scales, and various other items I need to just sell or get rid of depending on the item. Its great to help a new reloader getting started.

Well better get to bed as I have to get up in the morning to go to a gun show, need some more reloading equipment! haha I probably have 10 more squirrel rifles than the number of times I have gone squirrel hunting in a year. It never ends....

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PEASHOOTER67

Discussion Starter · #171 · 4 mo ago

Glenn sir.
Your surmise is spot on and there are deals out there , you have to be watchfully and ready. Some I will buy new most I’m looking for will be second hand.
I figured after I aquire most or all I need “if” I get it all for 10% or more less than new I’m sitting pretty.
I’m shooting for close to 25% less if I can manage.

.223 is my game and .22-250 will be as much for a lacking of market place as it will for accuracy but I’m going to start with .223.

over a short period of time I’ll buy a progressive for pistol calibers to do quantity loading as my wife just discovered how fun shooting steel is on the pistol range.
.38/.357 and some .45ACP.

for now it’s as said just going to be .223 then .22-250. Once my .22-250 is burned out I’ll switch barrels and convert the .22-250 to a .308 and try for extreme accuracy at that point.
I want to start out keeping it fun sooooooo no pressure lol 😆

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mathews691

· #172 · 4 mo ago

PEASHOOTER67 said:
Glenn sir.
Your surmise is spot on and there are deals out there , you have to be watchfully and ready. Some I will buy new most I’m looking for will be second hand.
I figured after I aquire most or all I need “if” I get it all for 10% or more less than new I’m sitting pretty.
I’m shooting for close to 25% less if I can manage.

.223 is my game and .22-250 will be as much for a lacking of market place as it will for accuracy but I’m going to start with .223.

over a short period of time I’ll buy a progressive for pistol calibers to do quantity loading as my wife just discovered how fun shooting steel is on the pistol range.
.38/.357 and some .45ACP.

for now it’s as said just going to be .223 then .22-250. Once my .22-250 is burned out I’ll switch barrels and convert the .22-250 to a .308 and try for extreme accuracy at that point.
I want to start out keeping it fun sooooooo no pressure lol 😆

I hear you on the 22-250, that "hard to find stuff" is what drove me to reloading.

However....... If you ever had the thought in your mind.......I would buy that if ammo was available.....well once you start reloading that Jeannie is out of the bottle and very hard to put back in.

TXNMAZ

· #173 · 3 mo ago

PEASHOOTER67 said:
I will be starting out loading for two .22 calibers.
.223 and .22-250. Instead of buying a “starter kit” I wold rather buy the tools I will actually use and need.
What I’m looking for is a good list of what not just basic get you started but a list of quality tools I will actually really use, maybe not the best but not cheap or junk.

I don’t want to waste my money on cheap tools are tools I just won’t use. What I figured I’d load for first is my for my cz 527 .223.
Sooo let’s get our shopping list and get started.
The simpler the operation the better.
I’m good with hand priming btw

ps. In rifle I will probably only be loading
.223/5.56
.22-250
.308
In pistol
.38 special
.357 magnum
.380
.40
.45 acp

I've been reloading for over 40 years and started with a Lyman kit, but over the years added a lot to it. I still have the original Lyman turret press, but have add a couple of other presses over time. The one thing that I recommend that didn't exist when I started reloading is an electronic dispensing powder scale. When first introduced I purchased Lyman's and I use it continuously for all my loading and cannot recommend it enough (I always check every 10th charge to ensure accuracy). I do not use a progressive system because I do not shoot a huge volume of ammo, but use single-stage presses to ensure consistency and quality over volume and speed.

PEASHOOTER67

Discussion Starter · #174 · 3 mo ago

No progressive, I set up a single stage just for that rifle x2. A progressive for maybe my AR and definitely a progressive for pistol.
I don’t see myself needing more that five presses if I include shotgun.
What I mean with avoiding kits are/is that with my reading “ I read a lot “ is that 1/2 of what they put in the kits end up being replace as the for example digital scale is a cheap version and you’ll end up replacing it with a much better one. The primer tool being just mediocre will be replaced with a better one.

I would rather just buy upper middle ground or lower upper tier equipment. You not going to get that in a kit but what a kit has going for it is everything is there to get you up and running tool wise.
I learned a long time ago that kits get you just good enough and I want better than just good enough.

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PEASHOOTER67

Discussion Starter · #175 · 2 mo ago

mathews691 said:
Some oldies but goodies.....and.......

A pencil sharpener. How many remember going up to the black board to sharpen their pencil, even had the little wheel on it for the different sizes. Some oldies but goodies.

And......

Safety glasses, another thing you should have on hand and use. I have never had it happen, but hear tell of people popping a primer here and there. Only two eyeballs take care of them.

You have some oldies but goodies there.

My world exists in chaos, generally not good for this kind of thing and in my reloading this is very neat and clean for me. I can find anything and have all the room I need.

The first pic I took when mounting my 600jr.

View attachment 364002

Closer up before I started shotgun shells, you can see a bit more. The hornady trim station is a fantastic tool, it is not wide like other trimmers, but is tall, and works a bit like a drill press. I really like this machine and glad I bought it. I would not have another as this is perfect for MY needs, Things like the Giraud is nice but you need a different die set for every caliber, and some die sets they just don't make, but you can buy blank dies and turn your own, sorry I have enough going on. You can also see the RCBS chargemaster, nice machine. It has a scale, if you wish you can weigh each case before and after the powder drop and double check things. I will generally do this roughly every 10 cartridges.

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And the next thing you know you will be here. For the boxes that have VAR on them there are going to be usually several different loads walking up the charge. Inside the box is a small "card" that has the load data. This way I know what I am doing, if I get something that does not fly well I can note it.

View attachment 364005

Next thing you know you will be hauling all this junk out when you shoot. It might get to be not a lot of fun thinking man, I need this that and the other.
View attachment 364006
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But you know what, you don't have to take all this garbage with you. If you find yourself thinking, well I have some rounds of 45-70 I really want to run in the old trapdoor, but I really don't want to haul all that mess down there guess what you don't. But I only have test rounds loaded up, I don't have anything to just "shoot". Guess what you can always load up more. Go and shoot and enjoy, that is what it is all about.

But......you always need pen and paper with you. If you happen to find something that shoots like this out of a trapdoor at 200 yards you are going to want to do it again.

View attachment 364008

I was completely distracted by your plane ✈ hanging over your table. Each time I tried to read your post my eyes and mind would be pulled over to that plane.

and I don’t really care for German ww2 planes that much except the ME262.

PEASHOOTER67

Discussion Starter · #176 · 2 mo ago

Lerrab said:
Pea, in an effort to be of some help: I think you will find that most any beam scale on the market, will be accurate enough to load a Remington 700 factory rifle in 22-250 to it's full potential as well as anything else you are likely to get into.

Something you may or may not be aware of. Hart rifle barrels in New York make very good barrels and do good work. You can send them your rifle and they will blueprint your action, do a very good chambering job, install the barrel and bed your action if you want. Kind of a one stop quality job. I have went this route before and was satisfied each time.

What kind of accuracy are you looking for out of your current .223 and 22-250.

Bug hole at 100yd….

SpirePoint

· #177 · 2 mo ago

Pea
Did you ever get any equipment?

mathews691

· #178 · 2 mo ago

PEASHOOTER67 said:
I was completely distracted by your plane ✈ hanging over your table. Each time I tried to read your post my eyes and mind would be pulled over to that plane.

and I don’t really care for German ww2 planes that much except the ME262.

There was a time when I flew quite a bit, not so much anymore but I still have all my planes. There are a couple, one is a Bf 110, the only twin I have ever had, I really enjoy that plane. The other is an Albatross.

Getting into flying is now more easy then ever. If you are interested it is a really fun hobby.

flangster

· #179 · 2 mo ago

I hope the OP has gotten on his way. As usual, I went the most expensive route here, although the journey has been fun, which is really the whole point anyway. I started out with a Lee kit loading for .223 and the very first handloads shot with about half the variation of my most expensive factory ammunition. Never looked back, although I have tried several approaches to solving the problems that come with this: charge weight, bullet concentricity to the bore, length of the cartridge to the bullet's ogive (a word that I can type, but can't pronounce).

The main reason to reload is to hit exactly where you are aiming. As I said, the Lee kit was pretty good. I think the only pieces of it I wound up not using were the automatic primer tray and the scale. I went with an electronic scale, then to an RCBS computerized wonder, and then all the way back around the horn to an RCBS 500 balance beam scale. The computerized scale and auto trickler might make sense -- but mine had drift from zero and had to be re-calibrated during a reloading session. It didn't really speed up my process either. On powder dispensers, I wound up with two of the Sinclair powder throw units that TBR recommended. Rock solid and precise.

Like a lot of folks, I now have several presses. For pistol ammunition I use a Redding T7 turret press, which makes things a bit more efficient. I have (I think) a RCBS Rock Chucker that is a great cast iron beast, and may finally replace the Lee.

For rifle cartridges like the .223 I like Wilson dies and an arbor press. I found that the runout (bullet concentricity) was much better with these than with any of the seating dies I was using in standard presses. And I liked how portable it all was. Theoretically, I could take the whole kit to the range, reload on site, and shoot the same 20 cases over and over until they needed trimming. Yeah, right. But I could. Really.

One thing I don't think I saw mentioned above is an overall cartridge length gauge and specialized case (each sold separately):

Hornady Lock-N-Load C-1000 Straight O.A.L. Gauge

This tool allows you to measure what the chamber depth is and when your bullet ogive begins to contact the lands in your barrel. Loading a few thousandths off that will help with on target accuracy. You will also need a set of calipers and a way to measure your bullet's length from cartridge head to ogive.

Good luck, good shooting, and let us know how it turns out?

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PEASHOOTER67

Discussion Starter · #180 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

hood5 said:
Pea
Did you ever get any equipment?

Found a Lyman single stage press picked for $40+ tax. This lace also has a rockchucker for $50 cash if there when I come back I will also get.
Found dads powder despenser ,beam scale, RCBS hand primer.

also had a member here send me a beam scale he had laying around.

now to get a hand trickler, electronic trickler/scale, dies, tumbler.

then some powder, primers, and a couple books.

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