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Wanting to get started reloading.

7309 Views 202 Replies 64 Participants Last post by  SpirePoint
I will be starting out loading for two .22 calibers.
.223 and .22-250. Instead of buying a “starter kit” I wold rather buy the tools I will actually use and need.
What I’m looking for is a good list of what not just basic get you started but a list of quality tools I will actually really use, maybe not the best but not cheap or junk.

I don’t want to waste my money on cheap tools are tools I just won’t use. What I figured I’d load for first is my for my cz 527 .223.
Sooo let’s get our shopping list and get started.
The simpler the operation the better.
I’m good with hand priming btw

ps. In rifle I will probably only be loading
.223/5.56
.22-250
.308
In pistol
.38 special
.357 magnum
.380
.40
.45 acp
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Great bunch of posts. Hands down the best forum I read. As a beginner, I reload 9mm, 223, 308 and 45. I started a year or so ago with a Lee Classic Turret kit. I pretty much use the turret as a single press. I cannot afford much of the really good stuff, but I try as best I can to load for accuracy. One oddity; I got a bunch of that green tip 5.56 NATO that has a steel core. I can't use them at my range due to danger of damage to the overhead bullet catchers. I'm replacing the bullets (only) with like shape FMJ bullets. The hammer like bullet extractor doesn't work on that M855 ammo so. I use a collet type extractor mounted in my press. I use a Harbor Freight ultra sonic cleaner with household CLR to clean fired brass. I trim as needed with the Lee trimmer and a drill motor. I resize one at a time with :Lee dies in the Classic Press. I lube with Lanolin mixed with Methanol. I use a Lee powder scoop and fine tune with a manual trickler. I use a little digital scale and weigh powder to a tenth of a grain and load cases with a funnel. Good thing I don't have to make my living doing this.

I don't shoot very good, so I am more into practice then fine tuning my loads. When I think I can outshoot the gun, I'll start on tuning the gun(s). My guns are M1A, Mini-14 and 10/22. Yeh, I know, there are more accurate guns, but I'm not even that good yet. Going to be 87 this year. Maybe I'll never be better then the guns. I'm having some fun though; what else counts?
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No doubt there are things you need to be aware of like fluorescent lights screwing with them. But even on that real cheapie I have found it has held up real well.

I started with what I will call a "balance" scale, and when I went to digital (the little marks are hard for old eyes to see) I did not trust it and double checked it against the old beam scale, then when I went to the charge master I did not trust it and checked it against both. They have never not lined up. Now once in a blue moon I will dig out the beam scale and check them all against each other, after setup they have always agreed.

Generally I like analog tools, I am just of that vintage, but even things like calipers I had to go to digital, I have such issues with the little marks. Found one caliper that will even display in fractions, nice big easy to read fractions. I really need to look for a tape measure that has a nice big display.
If/when you find that tape measure, please post a link here.
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The elephant in the room or the dirty little secret no one wants to talk about....

In addition to the gear you will need space; lots of space.


Shelving Shelf Tire Gas Publication
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Going to be 87 this year....
Congratulations! May you have many more years of health and happiness.
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Your time of 3.5 hours has me stopping and thinking, how long does it take me. I really could not tell you, I do it in little "odd jobs" here and there. I might de prime a bucket of brass in one sitting and do nothing else. Generally unless something sideways happens everything after that aside from tumble, I tumble before the deprime, is one step.

I enjoy this story, think it is helpful.

When I had my back surgery the first time I was part way through loading. I had primed brass but nothing farther. Back goes out and I am out of action for about three months. Finally I feel like shooting again and then a while later loading. Rimfire was what it was when I was healing up. I go to start loading them up, I don't remember what but think something along the lines of 3006. I go to pour the powder in take my funnel away and powder goes everywhere. Did I just double charge this, no way. Look at the other cases, the all look right, weigh other cases all come in with a weight in the ball park (each bit of brass is going to weigh a tick different) And I am looking at a case with power flowing over the top, just how in the world, even the number on the charge master matches up....did I load one case in the middle all those months ago, no way, not like me.

I dump the powder and found the issue...........

A small spider had built himself a house inside that case. The powder was not heavy enough to bust up the web. Hmm never seen that before, but now I check every time, or run a brush down them.
Damb! a .30 cal. spider!
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guns, but I'm not even that good yet. Going to be 87 this year. Maybe I'll never be better then the guns. I'm having some fun though; what else counts?
I am tagging along a year behind you. I believe you are on to something about the guns and fun. I'll never quit until I can't go anymore because of the fun part.
Figure a good place to ask. Do any of you have the scale that is in this picture? I was given the dispenser but no scale so it is useless to me . If you have the right one more than happy to send it.
View attachment 364255
Are you wanting to sell that RCBS scale as I would be in the market.? I've had one of those scales for years and really like it. The powder dispenser looks like it would work just dandy with that scale. Maybe I don't understand your post.
Are you wanting to sell that RCBS scale as I would be in the market.? I've had one of those scales for years and really like it. The powder dispenser looks like it would work just dandy with that scale. Maybe I don't understand your post.
I have the dispenser not scale.
The very first item should be a reloading manual and Lyman has a good one. it will tell you what you need, how to use it, and have safe loads.
I agree with this reply, but also disagree as well. I agree totally with getting a manual, but…get at least three or four reloading manuals, AND…. Read them and get familiar with All Of them. Get familiar with all the load data primers/powder/brass/bullets for the cartridges that you plan to reload for.
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Always read the front of reloading manuals and keep distractions away while reloading. Best way to get good results. Enjoy the process.
I agree with this reply, but also disagree as well. I agree totally with getting a manual, but…get at least three or four reloading manuals, AND…. Read them and get familiar with All Of them. Get familiar with all the load data primers/powder/brass/bullets for the cartridges that you plan to reload for.
Get the one to see what you need and how to use it. If you don't decide to continue then you are out very little. If you decide to go ahead then it's time to start obtaining more manuals. I have 8 or 9 around here varying from almost ancient to close to new. Get ready to see quite a bit of load variation between manuals.
I haven't read every single post , so please forgive me if I step on somebody toes. This last summer I had occasion to be in a conversation. with a young shooter that was wanting to get started reloading. Two nearby club members voiced how this newb needed to buy a progressive press. with all the latest accessories. I only started reloading in 1967 with a Lyman nut cracker so I have a somewhat different opinion. It appeared this newb was getting ready to spend a lot of unnecessary money and was really going to be disappointed.
The best thing I've read here is to keep distractions away, keep you mind on what your doing! Next would be to read all you can, and use what best works for you. Then you need someone experienced to guide you along till your somewhat competent.
Over the years I have accumulated close to twenty manuals and I look thru them every once in a while, and I'm still learning new things every time I look thru them. A long time ago I subscribed to a magazine that I believe was called Precision Shooting and that magazine was so full of information, that they should have made it into a book. Don't know if it is still published, but I really liked that magazine, and learned a lot from it.
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Find an old Rockchucker someone has squirreled away in their basement collecting dust. The older the better...they don't wear out. If they've got a Uniflow powder measure and one of the old RCBS/Ohaus scales, grab them up also.
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I haven't read every single post , so please forgive me if I step on somebody toes. This last summer I had occasion to be in a conversation. with a young shooter that was wanting to get started reloading. Two nearby club members voiced how this newb needed to buy a progressive press. with all the latest accessories. I only started reloading in 1967 with a Lyman nut cracker so I have a somewhat different opinion. It appeared this newb was getting ready to spend a lot of unnecessary money and was really going to be disappointed.
The best thing I've read here is to keep distractions away, keep you mind on what your doing! Next would be to read all you can, and use what best works for you. Then you need someone experienced to guide you along till your somewhat competent.
Over the years I have accumulated close to twenty manuals and I look thru them every once in a while, and I'm still learning new things every time I look thru them. A long time ago I subscribed to a magazine that I believe was called Precision Shooting and that magazine was so full of information, that they should have made it into a book. Don't know if it is still published, but I really liked that magazine, and learned a lot from it.
I always question the people that say start on a progressive. I am sure it can be done, but I think it is not the best way to start out.
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I always question the people that say start on a progressive. I am sure it can be done, but I think it is not the best way to start out.
I agree 110% with this statement. Not a single person just getting started needs a progressive press. They need to be very careful and watch what is going on in every step till at least they know exactly what is going on. A good example is over on Shotgun world. Com. I don’t know how many posts that I have seen recently that someone after loading a bunch of shells figured out that they used the wrong powder, ran out of powder, was throwing the wrong amount of powder, etc, and was wanting to know a easy way to dismantle them to reclaim the components. One guy had like 1500 that was loaded incorrectly.🤦🏻‍♂️
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A long time ago I subscribed to a magazine that I believe was called Precision Shooting and that magazine was so full of information, that they should have made it into a book. Don't know if it is still published, but I really liked that magazine, and learned a lot from it.
The periodical ceased publication a few years ago, but you got your wish. ;) I have a copy of a spiral-bound version of Precision Shooting Reloading Guide edited by Dave Brennan and copyright 1995 and 2004. It is my main precision-loading guide, including information from Fred Sinclair, Bill Gravatt and Dick Wright. It is not a loading manual- the authors assume you to be an intermediate handloader, and to have read all the loading manuals you can get your hands on.

Chapters:
Overview of loading for extreme accuracy
Reloading for High-power bolt guns
Reloading for High-power gas guns
Reloading for Benchrest
Reloading for the Magnums
Reloading for Wildcats
Pouring and Loading Cast Bullets
Working up an Accurate Load

This book was published by:
Precision Shooting Inc.
222 McKee Street
Manchester CT 06040
ISBN 1-931220-12-3

I believe I got my copy from Midway USA.
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At current scalper prices of $125, I dont think so. Looks like it was $16 prior to discontinued.

How about this at $30?
Sinclair International's Precision Reloading & Shooting Handbook, 10th Edition.
What are considered good prices for parts and supplies.
Parts being equipment new/used

Supplies being powder/bullets/primers?

I was at C’s Monday looking and pricing some things and they had small rifle primers CCI BR4 1000ct boxes for $149.95 a box, is this high or spot on?



Anyways C’s probably being the most expensive way to go , like I said , I was in the area and stopped to see and they had everything.

powder/primers/brass and full starter kits.

I will be hopefully sourcing most of my equipment used probably.
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What are considered good prices for parts and supplies.
Part being equipment new/used
Supplies being powder/bullets/primers?
I was at C’s Monday looking and pricing some things and they had small rifle primers CCI BR4 1000ct boxes for $149.95 a box, is this high or spot on?
Anyways C’s probably being the most expensive way to go , like I said , I was in the area and stopped to see and they had everything.
powder/primers/brass and full starter kits.
I will be hopefully sourcing most of my equipment used probably.
These BR are bench rest primers. More money, about $25 more per 1000 at cabelas I have not used them. The best prices i see anywhere are $100 for 1000 primers. Good luck on that! CCI website show 1000 Large Rifle at $91. I have not seen any that low post covid. A kind of best case typical local retail is $125. If you are starting out, you should have just got a 1000. Small rilfe is hard to find. You need a lot of stuff. Based on your list 223, 22-250 and 308 you will need small and large rifle primers.

You should already have your 11th edition Hornady manual. If not, shame on you!

From that reading you might have a shopping list of powders that work for the most cartridges on your list. Off the top of my head I am thinking IMR4064 and/or maybe IMR3031? When you see it you buy it. Or you will never get started. I use a lot of 4064 but dont load any small rifle. And H110 but I forget why.

Same with bullets. Have a list and dont be cheap to get your first box. You have a lifetime to buy in bulk online.Some 55 grain for 223 and 22-250 will work for varmint hunting. And get you started. Just buy a box. Same with powder actually. Once you find what you like and can use with the most cartridges you can get 8 pounds.

Cabelas is far from the most expensive way to go. The local shops are all higher. It is OBSCENE.

Powder prices seem reasonable for stuff like H110 and IMR4164. I saw a lot powders this week. C means cabelas? Why dont you just spell that out? anyway the C prices, really C? Looked ok for powder. Bullets percent price increase seem higher than powder and less than primers. Good jacketed bullets were always the most expensive piece of the puzzle.
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My perhaps limited experience has been the most important single factor in accuracy has been the bullet. I have been able to shoot factory ammo and get a sense what my gun liked and then select my first box of bullets. You dont need online advise, let you own experience with your guns guide you.
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