Wanting to get started reloading.

I hand prime with the good ol' Lee hand primer. (The old version with the round primer tray.) It works fine for me but I'm sure there are better ones on the market. I prefer to prime my rifle cartridges by hand.

I use Redding and Forster dies 'cause I think they're the best conventional dies.

I load on an old RCBS single stage press for my prairie dog loads. My plinking 223 loads get loaded on a Dillon XL650.

ALL of my pistol calibers get loaded on a progressive press like my XL650. SO much faster. But there's a steeper learning curve involved with a progressive press.

Beyond a press, shellholders for the press and dies (at the bare minimum):

1) Good loading manual like Speer or Hornady. (The more reference material you have on hand, the better. Read and read and READ!)
2) Dial calipers
3) Powder scale
4) Powder measure (nice to have but not ABSOLUTELY necessary but so much faster than weighing individual charges)
5) Lube for lubing cases when sizing them.
6) Loading block to stand cases in as you load them in the process.

Nice to have eventually:

1) Some way to clean brass. (Vibratory tumbler or wet tumbler)
2) Case trimmer.
3) Case gauge for each caliber
4) Inside case neck lube, i.e., a way to get motor mica powder inside the case necks when sizing bottleneck cartridges.)
5) Primer pocket cleaning device.

And if you can line up a local experienced reloader to mentor you, you'll be miles ahead.

NETim said:

I hand prime with the good ol' Lee hand primer. (The old version with the round primer tray.) It works fine for me but I'm sure there are better ones on the market. I prefer to prime my rifle cartridges by hand.

I use Redding and Forster dies 'cause I think they're the best conventional dies.

I load on an old RCBS single stage press for my prairie dog loads. My plinking 223 loads get loaded on a Dillon XL650.

ALL of my pistol calibers get loaded on a progressive press like my XL650. SO much faster. But there's a steeper learning curve involved with a progressive press.

Beyond a press, shellholders for the press and dies (at the bare minimum):

1) Good loading manual like Speer or Hornady. (The more reference material you have on hand, the better. Read and read and READ!)
2) Dial calipers
3) Powder scale
4) Powder measure (nice to have but not ABSOLUTELY necessary but so much faster than weighing individual charges)
5) Lube for lubing cases when sizing them.
6) Loading block to stand cases in as you load them in the process.

Nice to have eventually:

1) Some way to clean brass. (Vibratory tumbler or wet tumbler)
2) Case trimmer.
3) Case gauge for each caliber
4) Inside case neck lube, i.e., a way to get motor mica powder inside the case necks when sizing bottleneck cartridges.)
5) Primer pocket cleaning device.

And if you can line up a local experienced reloader to mentor you, you'll be miles ahead.

Click to expand...

NETim said:

I hand prime with the good ol' Lee hand primer. (The old version with the round primer tray.) It works fine for me but I'm sure there are better ones on the market. I prefer to prime my rifle cartridges by hand.

I use Redding and Forster dies 'cause I think they're the best conventional dies.

I load on an old RCBS single stage press for my prairie dog loads. My plinking 223 loads get loaded on a Dillon XL650.

ALL of my pistol calibers get loaded on a progressive press like my XL650. SO much faster. But there's a steeper learning curve involved with a progressive press.

Beyond a press, shellholders for the press and dies (at the bare minimum):

1) Good loading manual like Speer or Hornady. (The more reference material you have on hand, the better. Read and read and READ!)
2) Dial calipers
3) Powder scale
4) Powder measure (nice to have but not ABSOLUTELY necessary but so much faster than weighing individual charges)
5) Lube for lubing cases when sizing them.
6) Loading block to stand cases in as you load them in the process.

Nice to have eventually:

1) Some way to clean brass. (Vibratory tumbler or wet tumbler)
2) Case trimmer.
3) Case gauge for each caliber
4) Inside case neck lube, i.e., a way to get motor mica powder inside the case necks when sizing bottleneck cartridges.)
5) Primer pocket cleaning device.

And if you can line up a local experienced reloader to mentor you, you'll be miles ahead.

Click to expand...

You are pretty much hit that nail on the head. I only have 2 presses but the one gets used is an old (I bought it new 45 years ago) Bonanza Co-Ax press. Then it loaded the straight rounds you could load on a press and it is still right up there.

If I am loading for a favorite caliper that LEE makes their old fashioned LEE Loader for I get one. While I rarely load rounds start to finish with it I like to use the decapping because I like to decap before putting brass in the tumbler. I have been known to load some 22-250 (the first round I loaded and still a favorite) or .243 right in our Mojave Desert camp It is not unusual for me to have sever different die sets for one caliber. Speaking of LEE I use their priming press for ALL my priming. In fact I liked it so much I bought another one and keep one set up for large primers and one for small.

You can buy a universal decapping die for use in a press. Very convenient. Better than using a hammer with an olds style Lee Loader in a box. I also deprime in a separate step.

If your wallet can stand the cost, I highly recommend a Redding Precision seating die. And guns like CZ and calibers like 223 and 22/250 are worthy of the added expense. These dies are also helpful in precise alignment in straight wall cases. It is not over kill to buy a complete set of dies like Hornady Dimension then add the Redding die. Which is what I did. Or get that as part of a set, which I have not.

You can try out the Lee Collet style crimper although you may not need to crimp those two rilfe rounds. Also be aware that expander plugs can be replaced. I find they are typically 1/1000 to fat for my taste. You can play with that too.

All in, this is lot more expense than the enablers would have you think.

There might be somehting said for making some modest compromises at first. I dont actually see much out there I would call substandard. if you can afford a best of the best mega blue press, then you can afford AND USE TO GOOD ADVANTAGE, two presses. Starting with a RCBS Rockchcker for the first might be better than going all in on the first buy.

I agree with a lot that has been said. I have been casting lead bullets and reloading for over 50 years, tens of thousands of rounds. A single stage press will get you going and keep you busy. IIRC Lyman has a completer reloading set up that is only missing you to operate it.
I can not is good conscience recommend you start out with an automatic press. Reloading is a simple mechanical process backed by science and takes a feel to get it right. You can not have too many reloading books, the more the better. I have a Dillon 650 with all the bells and whistles it is not for a beginner IMNSHO.
You do not save money reloading! You simply produce better ammo cheaper and shoot a lot more. I can lose an entire day down in my gun room reloading and not even realize how many hours go by. It is addictive and very satisfying to produce your own, accurate less costly ammo.

WELCOME TO THE MADNESS.

NETim said:

Beyond a press, shellholders for the press and dies (at the bare minimum):

... the lists....

Click to expand...

Excellent list! I'll add a few comments and other suggestions.

Hand primer is the way to go.

Are you loading in an attempt to save money? Or to squeeze out the best possible accuracy with handcrafted loads?

Decide what bullets you like and get the load manuals from that bullet maker. That lets you zero in on recommended powders and loads. Much of that data can be found online nowadays.

Powder scale -- balance beam is fine. You'll want a pair of tweezers to go with it (remove powder from the pan if you got too heavy) and a small spoon for adding a tad more if too light or (better) a trickler. I eventually upgraded to an electronic scale for speed and ease of use.

Case lube (keeps them from getting stuck in the die) -- I use a tin of "Imperial Sizing Die Wax" and apply it with the tips of my fingers one-at-a-time as they go into the die. Option B is the squirt bottle type but you'll want an old TV dinner tray or somesuch on which to roll the cases around as you squirt them.

Neck cleaning brush.

Safety glasses.

A notebook.

Yes, you can wait on the case trimmer but don't wait too long. The cases stretch with use. The trimmer gets more life out of them.

I got almost all of my loading gear via yard sales and estate auctions. Pennies on the dollar. That stuff really doesn't wear out so don't hesitate to see what you can find in the "dead guy's stuff" category.

One thing I am most ashamed of is/was my generation's obsession with velociy. Loading up to "pressure signs" and backing off a grain! Dont be that guy. I am seeing it all over again with these mini rounds like 357MAX or Grindel and how they can equal this or exceed that. Or learn how to hunt and place an accurate shot. If you need more, buy a bigger gun. It is not safety so much as just, my opinion, stupid. You seriously be hard press to kill yourself. it is just a risk and wear and tear on everything. You want accuracy, not speed. Performance in the middle range of the round can deliver. Consistent and reliable ammo. With brass and guns lasting a long time.

I think the manuals will tell you to be very careful with light loads. They can destroy a gun. Read up on detonation.

I will include the Hornady Reloading Manual with the list of above book endorsements.

I handload for several different rifle and pistol calibers. The maximum amount of reloading I do is about 200 rounds a week during the warmer weather. I think you will be pleased with any good single stage press. I use Lee dies for most of my calibers mainly for price. I also have saved a little money by getting Lee factory crimp dies in a set. I have Lee Factory Crimp dies for all the calibers i reload for. A good case trimmer for bottle neck cases. I do not have any good advice for electronic scales as I have tried a few and went back to a beam scale as I can trickle powder out of a powder cup as fast as I can waiting for a electronic scale. I would not buy a lee hand primer as their new ones don't work well. Reloading books and a way to log your loads. I tumble my brass with stainless steel pins after trying all the other ways.

I am sure you will add and subtract things to suit the way you handload.

Peashooter, it looks like you are starting out reloading for bolt guns and two good cartridges, no use for crimping there. Get a good powder scale . I use a measure as well. You can load without a measure but not without a scale. A powder Trickler is a very handy tool.

When setting up dies a Bump gauge is a very handy tool and I recommend them.

Hand priming tools are nice to use. while I don't recommend distractions while loading, One can watch TV while priming a lot of cases if they want. Just inspect the cases afterwards.

I uniform my primer pockets and this only has to be done one time. The uniformer makes the best primer pocket cleaner as well.

Deburring tool.

You will need a case trimmer and I use a Wilson but there are less expensive trimmers that will do the job.

You will need case lube, I wouldn't worry about pads and such, as mentioned just get a tin of imperial sizing wax.

I have several presses but I rarely use anything other than my Bonanza CO-Ax. They are pricey and are not necessary I would recommend a Redding Boss press for not only a starter but it may be all the press you ever need. They are not exactly giving them away but for well under $200 I think they are a good buy.

I have several different die brands and they all will work well. I generally stay with Redding anymore .

There are good tools made to help you with seating depth but This will come later as you progress.

You will probably want a bullet puller at some time.

As far as micrometer seaters and competition seaters, concentricity tools , neck turners ,etc. I would load for a while and decide if that is where you want to go.

There are a lot of tools that precision handloaders use and unless you have precision rifles and chambers I don't think you will see much improvement with some techniques and tools.

My list;
Good single stage press.
Powder scale
Powder trickler
Dies
Shell holder
Bump gauge
Case lube
Primer pocket cleaner. I would do a one time buy uniformer here.
Trimmer , may not need it right off, but you will.
A lot of presses also prime so a separate priming tool may not be necessary.

Loading manual. Lot of information provided by Nosler and Hodgon on their sites as well as some others.
Safety glasses.

Forgot to list the caliper. Be hard to use the bump gauge I mentioned above without One! I like Mitutoyo .

i don't often reload pistol calibers as i can still purchase pretty nice quality and accurate pistol ammunition online via ffl.

That said, i have been reloading long range rifle ammunition for quite a number of years now.
I enjoy spending a lot of time working diligently to create nice quality rounds well suited to my rifle platforms so it's worth it for me but truth be told in popular calibers such as 6.5 Creedmoor you can now readily purchase really nice rounds.

I've been using a Forster Co-Ax press for many years and it suits me and my budget well. There are some premium presses out there but given my age, proficiency and finances the Co-Ax still does a darn good job.

I also tend to gravitate to Forster dies because the company has been awesome to work with. They'll polish and hone your dies to your specifications for a very small fee. I've had great luck with some Lee dies and also some very expensive Redding dies.

I would strongly advocate a decent quality caliper.....you will use this a lot.

I still use my old vibrating case cleaner...but i use it outdoors only, as it's dusty and makes a bit of noise. Were i to do it over or when my case cleaner dies i'll likely go through the nuisance of wet washing and then drying the cases just so i wouldn't have to breathe the dust. It's minimal but it can't be all that good for you.

I purchased a really nice powder measure (it drops a set measure of powder with the turn of a crank) but for my purpose it didn't really pan out....as i don't mind weighing out each and every load it didn't really save me much if any time. A lot of my friends who i competed with would disagree.

Definitely get a decent scale, i sometimes use an old beam balance scale which works fine but also use an electronic scale. It's always good to check one with the other. The 20 dollar battery scales never seemed to last for me so splurge a bit and get something decent.


I learned a lot from this book, highly recommended: Top-Grade Ammo a step by step guide to creating quality ammunition: Glen Zediker: 9781684192236: Amazon.com: Books

I picked up a very nice Forster case trimmer on eBay for 1/3 the cost of a new one.