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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently got myself a Volquartsen trigger group and I'm not too impressed. I heard countless good things about this trigger and it was in a reasonable price range. Some of you guys my have seen my last topic about alot of misfires and light strikes. After going target shooting a few times and having the same reoccuring problem, myself along with a good friend came to that conclusion that the Volquarsten hammer isn't hitting hard enough. First I used the Volquartsen trigger group with factory bolt and click...no bang. I change out the Volquartsen group with the Ruger factory trigger group and my 10/22 shoots fine. It cycled 25 rnd mags flawlessly with a bunch of different ammo. Looking from the top of the Volquartsen group it looks like the hammer is to the left of center. Would shimming it over have any affect? Would tightening the hammer spring but rotating one more time around the pin holding it help? I don't want to screw around with it too much. Spending 200 bucks on this thing and not having it work is a pretty big piss off.
 

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Contact Volquartsen - they're more than supportive of buyers of their products. I've been dealing with some troublesome shooting issues too, and Scott has been more than willing to answer every single one of my questions. FWIW, I have the TG2000, and I've noticed that the hammer isn't fully striking the firing pin, which may be causing a few light strikes - on the order of one every mag. I don't have any side-side issues though, like you described.

I discovered my bolt/trigger group alignment issue while the gun was apart. I marked the underside of the bolt with a Sharpie marker, and aligned the trigger group where the hammer "should" strike the firing pin without fouling on the bolt during any of its (or the hammer's) travel. I scribed this location - using the front of the trigger group as a guide - in the Sharpie'd area, just light enough to scratch the marker. After reassembling the gun and tightening everything down, I marked the bolt again.

I found that something was causing either the bolt to sit about 1/16" further back than it should, or that the trigger group sits 1/16" too far forward in my assembled action. Either way, the hammer fouls on the rear-bottom of the bolt before it can deliver a full blow to the firing pin. I have not gotten an explanation about this from Scott. If you're willing to do the same work I have, I'd be interested to know if your bolt and TG line up the same as mine do. Knowing this, I'd be able to narrow down a couple suspects in my *own* issues, but also have some extra anecdotal evidence for further questioning.

For example:
  • What IS the ideal angle for the hammer to strike the firing pin?
    Should it foul on the rear of the bolt at any time?
    Is it necessary, and doesn't the firing pin stop pin do the job of limiting travel?
    and
    Is this something that should be adjusted, and if so, what, if any, would be the advantages to being more precise with this?
 

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I can guess you got a TG2000 for the magnum or one that has had the magnum hammer spring installed. The magnum TG has a heavier hammer spring.

Is the bolt hold lever longer than the one in your original TG.?
 

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Are you asking me?

I'm about 99% sure I've got the TG for the .22lr. I can't speak for ArmourerETU, but my problem has nothing to do with hammer spring strength - it seems to be an alignment issue between the bolt and the TG. That's all I wonder: is it supposed to do that, and if not, what is "proper"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When I wrote my orignal topic the I left out the exact thing you mentioned MinusB. I planed on doing the exact samething you did with the sharpy. I'll do it later tonight and tell you my results.
I'm also pretty sure that I got the .22LR TG. Are there any visual difference between the Mag TG and LR TG?
 

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That's one of my thoughts. No, I haven't checked it against another receiver, so I'm kinda putting some trust into Ruger for doing it right. Yeah yeah... You've given me some fuel though; I'll be doing that as soon as I can.

Even still, there *has* to be some super anal-retentive shooter out there that fine tunes everything to the inth-degree. One of the things I'd like to know is how and at what angle should that hammer be contacting the pin.
 

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My TG is modified too - but that has nothing to do with it. At all.

We're talking about the relationship between the hammer and bolt, and how the hammer strikes the firing pin when it's assembled in the receiver. Read the #3 post above, and see if you have the same situation as us.
 

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well, the vq that I am working on right now the hammer is @.030" back from the stock trigger groups which would be the other way than what you guys are seeing.

one more thing I have seen with the vq's & that is both the tg2000's & hammers in a ruger triggers is that the raduis on the hammer is not right! it slows down the hammer, if the overtravel is tight. well I think that it slows it down anyways. (it has a caming action or a bump on it.)
 

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So, compared to the stock Ruger trigger, Volquartsen has tried to make the hammer strike with more of an angle anyway? How about the cam shape: does this concern you? Do you do something about it, or is this one of your secrets you'd rather not divulge?

TT, you're really good at this: have you noticed, or measured, the phenomenon I'm describing? In truth, I'm a little pissed about it, because it seems the hammer can only deliver a few thousandths of an inch worth of travel to the firing pin before it is dead-stopped by the back of the bolt. Do the stock hammers (in stock TG's) do this, or is this unique to the VQ unit? (I am unable to compare as of now).
 

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I think faster that I type

well, it looks (the vq hammer) like the same shape as the old ruger hammers
the cam I grind it off & what I am talking about is on the bottem of the hammer, as the sear slides after it is released.
as for the hitting of the firing pin it is really close to the ruger's the top of the hammers are @ the same.
I think that the hammer hitting the bolt is so it will not fire before the bolt is not closed!
when the bolt is closed the hammer should hit the firing pin & the bolt is the stop.

MinusB, as for my secrets it is more like my lack of writing skills,
& lack of time. yes the cam shape is bad.
I think that it is wost than the angle you are looking at.

the cam should be ground off, use the hammer bushing as a guide, not to grind where it has been ground for the sear engagement! but after grind to a nice radius so the sear will not be slowed down by any camming action.
 

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Had the same problem with a Bargain Bin TG2000 I ordered (absolutely could not resist the price). Talked to Tom at VQ. He's sending me a stronger hammer spring on the suspicion the wrong spring got installed. I marked the hammer as well, and I am getting a "secondary" strike mark very close to one edge of the hammer. Just eyeballing the size of the two strike marks, the "big" one is centered. The relative sizes (offset mark about 1/3 size) would seem to parallel the 30% misfire rate I was experiencing. The hammer spring itself seems to allow greater hammer wobble than my other TG2000. So, I'll wait, install and test shoot.

I have a lot of VQ products scattered among my six "shooting 10/22s", and I've been very pleased thus far.
 

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Scott is sending me a new hammer - you guys may want to contact him and see if you qualify for receiving a recall/warranty on your hammer. Mine is/was the 1/8" wide one, but he said earlier ones didn't have enough mass, so they beefed it up a tad. I only talked to him last night, so I won't know for a few days if it works or not.

However, for what it matters, I have still not gotten an answer as to why the hammer smacks the bolt like it does. I'm not noticing anything trivial either - it's a full-on, dead-serious problem, and nobody knows what I'm talking about.
 
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