Good morning to all. Just a short comment. Installed a Volquartsen hammer on my 25 year old stock 10/22 Sporter last week. WHOAAAAAAA!!!! What a difference!!!!! Couldn't believe it. Haven't measured the trigger pull weight, But 21/2 to 3 lbs as opposed to 8 or so feels about right. What a great suggestion and highly recomended. Thanks for the tip............
Volquartsen Hammer
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70 Posts
1st 10/22,
Please tell me more about this "pen spring" thing you are talking about. Details, if you would....thanks, rick..
Please tell me more about this "pen spring" thing you are talking about. Details, if you would....thanks, rick..
Find yourself an old retractable "traditional" style ballpoint pen and take the spring out of it. Cut off about 1/3 of the length of the spring.
Now take the trigger assembly apart and remove the trigger return spring and the pin that sits behind the trigger in the loop. replace both parts with ONLY the cut part of the ballpoint spring, screwing the cut end of the spring into the hole.(It should be a snug fit) If by chance it is too weak to reset the trigger consistantly, you might have to stretch the spring just a bit, or at worst, cut another spring just a bit longer.
That will remove all the grittyness from the trigger pull and reduce the pull another ten ounces or so.
If you are worried about it being to light now, don't do it. This modification may not be the best for a begining shooter who hasn't mastered the feel of his trigger. But is GREAT for someone who is comfortable with it.
If you have never pulled the trigger out of the assembly before, you will need to get a short piece of a Q-Tip stick, or a short piece of a bamboo skewer to use as a temporary pin to hold the trigger parts together while you are putting them back in the housing. then use the normal pin to push the tempooray one out once it is in place.
Ron
Now take the trigger assembly apart and remove the trigger return spring and the pin that sits behind the trigger in the loop. replace both parts with ONLY the cut part of the ballpoint spring, screwing the cut end of the spring into the hole.(It should be a snug fit) If by chance it is too weak to reset the trigger consistantly, you might have to stretch the spring just a bit, or at worst, cut another spring just a bit longer.
That will remove all the grittyness from the trigger pull and reduce the pull another ten ounces or so.
If you are worried about it being to light now, don't do it. This modification may not be the best for a begining shooter who hasn't mastered the feel of his trigger. But is GREAT for someone who is comfortable with it.
If you have never pulled the trigger out of the assembly before, you will need to get a short piece of a Q-Tip stick, or a short piece of a bamboo skewer to use as a temporary pin to hold the trigger parts together while you are putting them back in the housing. then use the normal pin to push the tempooray one out once it is in place.
Ron
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70 Posts
Thanks Ron,
I've had mine apart and think I can do this operation okay. If not, I'll replace the factory spring.
On another note, what do you guys think about the after-market firing pins? Are they worth the effort and expense of changing out? I have a 10/22 magnum I was thinking about switching. thanks for any info. rick
I've had mine apart and think I can do this operation okay. If not, I'll replace the factory spring.
On another note, what do you guys think about the after-market firing pins? Are they worth the effort and expense of changing out? I have a 10/22 magnum I was thinking about switching. thanks for any info. rick
Another method for the spring
Here is how I done my trigger spring. I didn't like the grittyness of the plunger grinding against the trigger. I read somewhere on RFC about Clickster mechanical pencils having a perfect fit spring for the return spring. Went to Walmart and bought a pack of the Clicksters, turned the plunger around backwards and put the clickster spring in next so it rides against the trigger instead of the plunger contacting the trigger. Pull was further reduced and now much smoother. Still had a problem with the overtravel so I took it back apart and flattened out a piece of number 8 shot and put it behind the plunger and then the plunger and then the clickster spring back in, no more overtravel and no screw through the trigger needed. With the Volquartsen hammer, JB weld trick and clickster spring my trigger is better than I ever expected. Still love to get my hands on one of them Kidd triggers though
ohioruger John
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Here is how I done my trigger spring. I didn't like the grittyness of the plunger grinding against the trigger. I read somewhere on RFC about Clickster mechanical pencils having a perfect fit spring for the return spring. Went to Walmart and bought a pack of the Clicksters, turned the plunger around backwards and put the clickster spring in next so it rides against the trigger instead of the plunger contacting the trigger. Pull was further reduced and now much smoother. Still had a problem with the overtravel so I took it back apart and flattened out a piece of number 8 shot and put it behind the plunger and then the plunger and then the clickster spring back in, no more overtravel and no screw through the trigger needed. With the Volquartsen hammer, JB weld trick and clickster spring my trigger is better than I ever expected. Still love to get my hands on one of them Kidd triggers though
ohioruger John
TStafford
on my factory Rugers range from 6 to 11 pound pull
after VQ hammer kit range 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 pound pull ( NICE)
after power custom hammer kit 2 to 3 pound pull (OK)
Now the Speedlock 10/22 hammer with a lighted trigger spring
2 pound with out the pre-travel or Creep of the VQ hammer kit
(WOW!) I'm very impressed with it.
on my factory Rugers range from 6 to 11 pound pull
after VQ hammer kit range 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 pound pull ( NICE)
after power custom hammer kit 2 to 3 pound pull (OK)
Now the Speedlock 10/22 hammer with a lighted trigger spring
2 pound with out the pre-travel or Creep of the VQ hammer kit
(WOW!) I'm very impressed with it.
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