Have you learned anything about smoothing or adjusting the Papoose trigger yet? Even how to get the creep out of it. The trigger is horrible and accuracy is suffering because of it and I would like to do something about it but do not want to invent the wheel if I do not have to. Post reply here and I will get an email. Thanks.
The little bit of creep didn't bother me, it was the weight.
Here's what I found out. I've also done it to my 7000T, which I'm probably going to sell.
****My 70PSS(Papoose) registered somewhere over 5lbs.(80oz.) on my sliding RCBS trigger weight scale. A fishing scale, really. Actually, it may have been closer to 6lbs, as the indicator tab bottomed out in its slot even before the trigger tripped.
Here's what I did, which you may try at your own risk:
Removing the trigger return spring inside the trigger guard dropped it down to 68oz., or so. The take-up is now slightly sloppy, but it only moves an eighth-inch or so before it encounters the resistance of the "sear bar" inside of the receiver(not sure of proper nomenclature). That made a big difference. Just push the forward trigger-pin out from the left to the right enough to lift the spring up free and clear. Then, tap the pin back into place.
Next, I removed the mag-disconnect. That's got it down to 60-62oz, which is just under 4lbs. Using a tiny jeweler's driver, pull the tiny C-clip at the rear of the bar on the left side of the trigger mech housing. Reach up inside and lift the long leg of the sear spring out of the notch it rests in. That's a cross a pin attached to the inside of the disconnect bar. Lift the bar free from the assembly, and pop the C-clip back onto the notched pin where it was. When assembling the housing back to the receiver, make sure the hammer is cocked and the dangling leg of the sear spring points toward the mag well. When replacing the trigger guard it will compress down on the leg adding tension to the sear. However, it's less tension than when it rested on the cross-pin. You can also put a kink in that leg, which will further reduce the sear tension. Go easy!
I don't miss the mag-disconnect, nor would most owners, I suspect. Just function check it manually to make sure the SEAR disconnector is working! IOW, dry-fire(once) and hold down the trigger while working the bolt. Make sure when you release the trigger that it clicks back into resistance with the sear bar. This indicates it's holding in the cocked position requiring another trigger-pull to release a subsequent shot. Test your gun live-fire with ONE, Two, then three rounds in your mag and so forth to make sure everything's on the up-and-up.
When I got up the gumption, I gutted the trigger housing to see what some pointed, careful polishing would do. Turns out the disconnector/sear bar is permanently riveted to the left action bar which supports the trigger group. I suppose you could ooze some JB paste down in there and work it back and forth, but I don't think the gain would be worth the effort in both time and clean-up. Ditto polishing the sides of the sear or hammer, they appear to be quite smooth enough as-is.
****I removed the torsion spring which operates both the return function of the disconnector, and adds weight to the forward motion of the bar which trips the sear. Again, you can carefully tweek the legs of this spring which will leave enough UPWORD tension to maintain the disconnector function. It will also reduce some of the weight from the sear release, which is what you're trying to accomplish. Now, the 'Poose is down to just under 3lbs., and I find that to be quite manageable.
In trapping the mainspring, I careful bent a paper-clip into an "L" shape, then clipped all but the last couple of millimeters of the short end so that it would fit in there. Much like trapping the mainspring of a J-frame Smith & Wesson, if you're familiar with that procedure.
I just looked thru some breakdowns on the papoose and it looks to be very similar to the mod 60. with that said and all safety issues followed at your own risk!
I found a way to safely tune the trigger pull and that is if looking at the hammer on the 60 it has a severe over bite condition which creates the creep it is so dearly known for take a fine file and just knock off that over bite so it is even with the lower half then put a 45 degree bevel on the edge gently with jeweler file and polish it all up pretty and smooth DO NOT BEND THE SEAR IMHO that will create safety issues if still gritty (if done as said shouldn't be) you can polish the sear ever so gently. I have done this to my 60 with awesome results appx 3# maybe slightly less very safe I have bounced it banged it the only possible way to get it to dis charge would be to throw down on the muzzle Maybe. Take Your time and refit and try may take a few tries to get the feel just the way You like but You'll be impressed and satisfied of do it yourself !