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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody!

This is obviously a newbie question as I've just joined not only 10/22 owners club but shooters club as well.

After I cleaned (for a first time, regular field-strip) my new 10/22 (straight from factory, no modifications etc.) and assembled it back I've found that trigger assembly is somewhat loose. In other words I can move it sideways with one hand while firmly holding the stock with another hand. Is this normal? It fills especially bad when bolt is closed. It seems to me that haven't noticed this before disassembly. I've got all pins in place and was really accurate during cleaning and assembling/disassembling.

Another Q - barrel is little bit loose relative to receiver when taken out of stock. Is this normal?

Thank you!
 

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Yea triggers are loose, the nature of the beast. Many ways to fix it, but not needed. If you ever get the urge (and balls) to bed the action, this will fix it too. Now the barrel, mine isnt loose......
 

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The barrel should not be loose, tighten the two bolts that hold int into the V block.

As for the trigger assembly. They are quite loose but you man tighten it up with a spall shim in the frame. I used a .013 piece of brass to make the shim. This will help keep the trigger assembly in the same spot shot after shot. It should produce better accuracy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you! Your replies calmed me down a lot.

About barrel - it would not swing sideways. What I meant is I can easily turn it a little bit. Few degrees, may be ten. Should it be absolutely tight?
 

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I tighten the screws holding the barrel block as tight as i can get them.
Don't know if that's the correct thing to do... but it's what I do.
Paul
 

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Tighten the bbl.

The, get a set of "Leckie's Custom 10/22 reciever pins" from www.brownells.com There are other ways, such as drilling a set screw into your reciever, but the oversized pins are simple, and are only about $10. You'd be surprised what a difference a tighter trigger group wil make.
 

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NO!!!!!

Tightening them as tight as you can will cost you money. They should be tight but NOT that tight. PS.. the barrel has to be positioned correctly, if you twisted it in the receiver, you will have troubles until it is corrected....

Can't remember if it is 20 or 30 INCH pounds of torque on the barrel screws...

I'll try to find it in a search and come back with an update on it.

Ron
 

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I feel like I'm gonna let you down here. I looked for quite a while and came up with answers from 20 to 40 INCH pounds, but apparently not the defining one. If you know the size of the screws, there are charts that will tell it, and I know they have been referenced here, so I'll take another look for that.

The barrel should be positioned so the extractor is set in the middle of the barrel slot before it is tightened down. If it is dragging on one side, you will end up with problems.

Ron
 

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The brownells pins will help some but not much to be useful and I wouldn't waste the money.

I drilled and tapped the receiver right behind the trigger group. then stuck in a 6-24 allenhead with some teflon tape to keep it from walking. The allenhead tightens against the trigger group and makes it rock solid. (Hand tight on the torque, don't crank it)

Got that idea here on the boards.....lemme see if I can find a pic for an example.....

See pic here...

http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19936
 

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Here's a chart that 38Super posted a while back.

Ron

Installation torque values for threaded fasteners in a tapped hole. Values are applicable to 125 ksi FSU shear & 180 ksi FTU tension fasteners.

Thd--------Thd dia.-----Aluminum-----------Steel

4-40------0.112----------6 in-lbs
6-32-------.138---------3-7 in-lbs------------8-12 in-lbs
8-32--------164---------5-10 in-lbs---------15-19 in-lbs
10-32-----0.190-------10-14 in-lbs---------20-25 in-lbs
1/4-28----0.250-------20-35 in-lbs---------35-45 in-lbs
5/16-24--0.312--------50-75 in-lbs--------75-95 in-lbs
3/8-24----0.375--------80-115 in-lbs------135-165 in-lbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi everybody!

Thank you all, this is utmost helpfull. Little bit overwhelming for novice though :)

One of barrel screws was completely loose :(. If this is in Ruger straight from factory then what are we rolling to... Got them tight, but not too tight I hope. How do I measure torque? (See, I am not only 10/22 newbie...)

As for T-group I will start with pins and then progress to shims and then to drilling a screw. Guess going to drilling and tapping is bit early for me.

Thank you all again!
 

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Just practice drilling and tapping on a spare piece of aluminum. I did it a few times to make sure all was good, then centered the pilot hole mark, stuck the receiver in a vise (with a non marring buffer between the vise and receiver), then drilled freehand with a cheapie cordless drill. Then went and guaged it, and to my surpsise, the hole alignment was prit near perfect.

Went with the small scew in case I goofed and had to redrill to a bigger size~ :)
 

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I have oversize receiver pins in ALL my 10/22s

Best $10.00 I ever spent! :D "Leckie's Custom 10/22 reciever pins" from www.brownells.com have never failed to perform for me or anyone else I've pointed toward them.

The method Rimfire Junkie describes is a GOOD procedure and will definately do the job if you want to buy the drill, tap, and allen screw, and then "have at it" on your receiver.

FWIW! - Dakotan
 
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