Too many Misfires...
I just recently finished up with my Ulitmate 10/22, and I'm not too impressed. The gun looks deadly but isn't shooting. I have the Volquarton trigger group, SS Barrel, extractor and bedding kit, Tundra stock, factory firing pin and bolt work I did myself. I tested out 9 different types of ammo and I keep getting the same end result. The rounds that go bang have a have a very faint strike on the primer and the other 90% are misfires. The firing pin looks complety fine and have recently used a Power Custom Firing Pin with the same result. I'm thinking that the Hammer Springs in the trigger group are too weak...I can't figure this out. Any comments would be greatly appreciated fellas.
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I think eljay is on the right track. Mine was fail to load or fail to fire alot and after checking everything these guys suggested I figered out that I wasn't getting the action setteled in the stock properly because of a chip of wood and then I was over touqring the takedown screw on top of it. This was putting stress on the action and the bullet was shaving a burr on the edge of it when it loaded so it wouldn't seat all the way into the chamber thus holding the bolt slightly open. You could barely tell that the bolt wasn't closed all the way. I never noticed until I stoped in between shots and inspected it. I haven't bedded the action yet like you so this most likely made my problem worse. I removed the chip of wood and backed the torque down to 25 in. lbs and no more burrs. Here is the thread if you want to scan over it. http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99903&highlight=LCH ..LCH
Change out the VQ hammer spring for the factory spring and give it a try.
I'm not sure with the standard 10/22s, but in the first runs of .17HMRs we were building, the PC or VQ hammer springs were too light, and putting the factory spring back in cured most of the misfire problems we were having.
I'm not sure with the standard 10/22s, but in the first runs of .17HMRs we were building, the PC or VQ hammer springs were too light, and putting the factory spring back in cured most of the misfire problems we were having.
Just another thought. The firing pin could be bouncing around as it moves forward in the chanel and losing some energy. I was getting some FTF in mine, not a lot but just enough to be a pain. I tried the BB trick and the FTF problem disapeared. After about 1500 rounds the BB came loose so I replaced it with a pin. I get about 1 or 2 FTF out of a bulk pack of golden bullets instead of the 30 or so before the mod. Good luck.
Now I just got through putting the VQ complete kit in my stock 22LR this past week. Now I would like to think if it was anything like mine, there would be no freakin' way its too lite LOL. With where the two legs of the springs go on top of the trigger, one leg on each side of. Heck I had to really lay the hammer over quite a bit just to get the pin in the hammer with the spring legs in place.
By chance did you get one of the small shim washers in one side or both of them one on each side?
I know I could only fit one of the shim washers on mine, at first I put it on the open bolt side of the trigger assemby or what I would call right side of the rifle. While I was messing around feeling of the pull and watch how all this worked through its motion, noticed with how I put my finger on this same side it sort of pushed a little more sideways as you squeezed the trigger. Trigger break was fine...
I moved the small shim washer to the other side so that it would at as a stand off and a rub block for the trigger when I trip the trigger. Mine seems to do the trigger and I was afraid of what the end of the firing pin was going to get from this new killer hammer LOL...
One other thing I can think of would also be the 1/16" roll pin we put over the firing pin in the bolt so as to keep the play to only a back and forth motion and not so much of the up and down. Did you do this mod yourself as mentioned and if so it all works freely? I could see if this was a little to tight it could greatly affect the hammer affect on the firing pin. Just my nickel's worth
Hope you figure her out soon and get her in the ready mode
Edit: I just played around with something I got to thinkin' on after I posted above. If I set the over travel adjustment to close to zero over travel I could get my disconnector to drag enough on the hammer that it would fire... So you might even try to add just a little more over travel in the trigger and see if anything improves.
By chance did you get one of the small shim washers in one side or both of them one on each side?
I know I could only fit one of the shim washers on mine, at first I put it on the open bolt side of the trigger assemby or what I would call right side of the rifle. While I was messing around feeling of the pull and watch how all this worked through its motion, noticed with how I put my finger on this same side it sort of pushed a little more sideways as you squeezed the trigger. Trigger break was fine...
I moved the small shim washer to the other side so that it would at as a stand off and a rub block for the trigger when I trip the trigger. Mine seems to do the trigger and I was afraid of what the end of the firing pin was going to get from this new killer hammer LOL...
One other thing I can think of would also be the 1/16" roll pin we put over the firing pin in the bolt so as to keep the play to only a back and forth motion and not so much of the up and down. Did you do this mod yourself as mentioned and if so it all works freely? I could see if this was a little to tight it could greatly affect the hammer affect on the firing pin. Just my nickel's worth
Hope you figure her out soon and get her in the ready modeEdit: I just played around with something I got to thinkin' on after I posted above. If I set the over travel adjustment to close to zero over travel I could get my disconnector to drag enough on the hammer that it would fire... So you might even try to add just a little more over travel in the trigger and see if anything improves.
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