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Every new 10-22 I work on and sell has a problem with poorly fit extractors and firing pins that are too short.

The extractor should cam out of the way of the cartridge case 0.015" when you slide the case under the extractor.

The firing pin should stand proud of the rim cut in the bolt by 0.025", 0.035" is better.

If you need help, send me a PM.

Doug
 

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I've bought the aftermarket extractors and all are just as bad as the OEM. It's not a problem with the extractor; it's the fit of the extractor to the bolt. Changing the extractor does nothing to the bolt tolerances and therefore no improvement in the function of the rifle.

The VQ has a hook 0.005" longer than the OEM extractor. Sometimes it's enough to correct the issue, many times not.

I've made this repair on hundreds of 10-22s and it works. ;)
 

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Fitting the extractor to the bolt is easy. The extractor hook has to have enough pre-load on it to hold the cartridge case tight to the face of the bolt as it recoils until the base of the case hits the ejector and gets kicked out of the action. The case rim should push the extractor out of the way by 0.015" as it is slid up under the extractor. This gives the pre-load needed.

To get more pre-load you have to make the hook longer. The extractor is stopped in it's travel towards the cartridge case by it's machined slot in the bolt. To make the slot deeper would make the hook effectively longer, but man what a PITA. It's easier to modify the extractor.

If you look at the extractor you will note the hook at one end and the square lug at the other. Where you need to remove material from is the flat that is between the hook and lug. With the hook and lug facing up, I clamp the extractor in a small vise. I keep the area flat, but remove more material from the hook end. Take about 0.010" off and check the fit.

When you get the 0.015" cam out, break all corners to remove burrs or sharp edges and you're done.
 

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Yes, that is how you remove the material. Not to get picky, but the red line should be below the original line of the extractor, but you have the idea down pat. In effect this makes the hook of the extractor longer. This in turn will make the extractor hold the spent case on the bolt face tighter. The width of the extractor is not critical.
 

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Opps I think I have the wrong definition of a stovepipe. The problem I'm having is live rounds getting caught going into the chamber. When you pull the bolt back and shake the gun ejector port pointed down the round will fall out (sometimes with the help of a finger) and the bullet will be bent. Again using stock mags.
When it jambs where is the bolt? Is it behind the cartridge case trying to push the round into the chamber, or is the bolt hitting the case in the mid-point, setting on top of the round?
 

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On it's first range trip it was flawless but I did not have the clip block either. I'll look at it closer tonight.
This would be the first thing I would look at. Try the rifle without the Tri-Mag set-up and see if you still have the problem. I see a lot of these at Appleseeds and most people that have them like them. Hopefully your problem is just that simple. :)
 

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My issue is not gun related but magazine, the gun works with other mags, but not the 4 new ones. The gun had one week of league on it after being cleaned, about 120 rounds her magazines were dirty, I was going to clean them and she told me to just get her 4 new ones, and this is when the issues started, with the loaded round not feeding into the chamber. she is using the same ammo as last week, out of the same box so I would rule it out also.
What ammo are you using?

Is the bullet being shaved on the top or bottom when it gets jambed?
 
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