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I just got my Boyds Blaster stock delivered and man is it nice! It's unfinished in nutmeg laminate and I've got a buddy helping me with the sanding and finishing. My question is:

What do you finish them in? Do you just urethane them or do you stain them? I like the colors of the wood and it'll only darken the grain and look even better with clear urethane.

Any pointers?
 

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urethane : Just remember that if you use this product, even though it give a very beautiful finish, to refinish it again, you will have to remove it. An oil finish can be covered with a high grade of wax and be brought out to a low or very high luster finish. Redoing it, if needed is much easier. (Guess you can tell I hate urethane.) :rolleyes:
 

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Tru Oil also produces a nice finish which can be lightly rubbed with 0000 steel wool to get a great satin look. Very easy to touch up if the need arises, and the only thing you have to watch while applying is to keep the coats VERY thin, and allow to dry between coats.
 

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Thanks for the reply Ledbetter.....

I asked because I have seen advice against Formbys before, but no one ever said exactly why.

Unfortunately, I saw the "don't use Formbys" advice only after I had already used it on two stocks.

So far, it looks fine to me. Does it yellow with time?..... they don't appear yellowed right now. The stocks I used it on are a Boyds Rosewood Blaster and a Gatewood Camo Off-hand...... both laminates and both with lots of color, so I guess maybe I just haven't noticed any yellowing (yet?)......

At this point, I have about 7 coats on the Blaster, and about 4 on the Gatewood, and both still need more "finish" sanding........ so I guess I could still sand it ALL back off if necessary...... should I do that??

These stocks are both still a "work in progress" and before I go any more forward, I'd like to think I was "on the right path"....

thanks, ....gb
 

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I have never had any problems w/ Formby's. I have used it on several stocks over the past few years. None of them have yellowed, at least as far as I can tell. The oldest one is about 4-5 yrs old.

But...as always....you milage may vary.

KillJoy
 

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finish

I like to take a small amount of the finish and put it in the bottom of the barrel channel to see what color it will turn the stock. It won't hurt anything because you won't see it when the barrel is in the stock.
I like to use tung oil that I get from Ace Hardware. I sand between caot with 0000 steel wool. I don't sand the last coat so it will have a shiney coat.
I think the mimwax would do the same thing. I don't know what the finish is but the prettiest stock is the orange and red one that is at the top of the page at RFC.
 

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I've been experimenting with Pro-Custom tung/urethane, Formby's, and Tru-Oil. My favorite is still Tru-Oil. It darkens the stock, so in some cases I might not use it, but I like the fact that it can be easily touched up. Pro Custom dries quickly for something with urethane in it, but in my opinion, it's extra durability isn't that much of an advantage.

I filled my stock with Tru-Oil from the bottle, and now I'm applying the finish coats with the spray. I'll probably apply five more very thin coats, and rub it out with Brownells 5F compound. If you scratch the finish, buff a little, reapply until it looks fine. Plus, I can get more at Wal-Mart instead of having the Pro-Custom shipped from Brownells, which is a big advantage for me.
 

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MinWax v. Formby's

It is just a matter of preference. I did a 10/22T stock with Formby's and it's a nice amber color; I like it. I did my Fajen Silhouette with MinWax and it's a mahogony color.

However, the percentage of tung oil in MinWax is more than double that in Formby's, as I recall from postings on www.jouster.com, another great source of stock finishing info ("Articles").

Note that Tung Oil Finish, like most "oil finishes," contains relatively little pure tung oil, and is otherwise comprised of varnish and thinner. It is as easy to maintain and touch up as any other finish and MinWax is available everywhere.

Good shooting.
 

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Maybe we can get someone to show that Arrow Wood Finish is far superior to Tru-Oil on the following counts:

1. Less of product used. It is far more poserful. (It is applied and bonded with itself, not applied and removed). Not filled with "drying agents"

2. Doesn't harden in the bottle. Benefit of #1

3. More rugged finish due containing sealing and filling agents.

4. Bonds on top of non-oil based urethanes and polymers.

5. Doesn't begin to darken in five years of Sun exposure, like Tru-Oil.

6 Far superior on checkering and stocks: see #3.

7. It is not water-proof, a good thing for normal use, as long as the stock is brought in out of the cold and wiped-off, not stored under a snow bank. Advantage of oil-base.

8. It hold to itself true for 30 years and more: a true heirloom finish. Again, advantage oil-base, but it doesn't darken much, and withstands use without getting "white powdering" - a bane to Urethane. No indoor/outdoor heat stress-related cracks causing the wood to dry out. Can be used for violins and guitars to keep the wood from going "tinny" in 5 years. Gun stocks is only a beginning for it to be used on.

I posted before already on arrow, but Arrow has apparently never been used here. None the less, I hold - and state - the view it is far superior to Tru-Oil based on my experience and those of my customer testimonials. It think it is also less expensive per square foot of surface since it is quite concentrated - only what is useful. In conlusion, There is thumbs-up with Shooter Solutions' service and upon the Moly-Fusion, in the Community Forum, so I expect there will be someday "thumbs-up" on the Arrow Wood Finish as well, once people try it enough to comment. In summing up, it is powerful. I firmly hold the opinion it deserves a fair shake.

Since it is not sold at Wal-Mart like the other products mentioned, it would not be fair to dismiss it for that reason alone, since I am a sponsor.

I am going to renew the 15% off Monday for a limited time, if requested for both Arrow Wood Finish again, together with the Moly-Fusion. As a sponsor, Shooter Solutions can be very flexible.
 

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I recently finished two stocks.

One was a Fajen thumbhole on a 10/22. The other was the original on a Marlin 60.

I used Minwax Tung Oil only on the Fajen and it is beautiful. No stain over a "coffee" stock. Took a fair amount of prep sanding, the first two coats were wiped off, the next six coats were hit with 00 steel wool between coats.

I used Minwax quick drying polyurethane over a minwax mahogany stain on the Marlin. Sanded it down, was surprised at the lousy wood underneath:eek: Took about 6 coats to get the marlin stock looking right and it still is not nearly a good looking as the Tung Oil.
 

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While it sounds like your question is rhetorical (Hey you guys are wrong), I will go into the technical side and practical side of what I am saying, and what it means exactly in longevity properties. It is a unique finish, after all. Water proof means if you insert something into water forever, no water vapor will pass through. Arrow Wood Finish will not subject to that, yet it is oil-based AND forms a unique structure that is not water proof, which for forever use and greatest versatility is a good thing. That's what I think.

Water vapor will pass through it which is a good thing when you have water vapor pressure difference: Taking the stock outdoors where it is comfy warm to a temperature of Freezing for instance. For a solid and brittle waterproof surface, like urethane it cracks the urethane and now the wood is unprotected where microscopic fracturing took place. Tung Oil also presents a problem in where the wood humidity level is different than the exterior humidity level, causing a pressure difference as well.

An extreme example is Arrow Wod Finish has been used to seal, protect and finish Green fresh cut wood, and it stays flexible as the wood shrinks and allows the water vapor to slowly pass through it as it slowly dries and the wood itself doesn't rot or split.

In other words the finish structure is gently porous to water vapor, but extremely water resistant. You can't leave the wood in a puddle forever without ruining the wood.

Conversely, over a 30 year time span, it holds up to normal use far better than waterproof, because it is a living finish keeping the wood "alive" and "content". - From a lasting point of view.

It is itself a unique physical structure that combines oil, filler, sealer, into a homogenous non-yellowing living-flexible finish that is extremely water resistant, doesn't create "white" marks when touched, but not too water proof.

It has a following amongst some gunsmiths because it does alot of things simultaneously fast. It has never made a print catalog, but exclusively demonstrated at various gunshows around the US for all of its existence. It also can work as a spectacular non-drying agent in place of the urethanes to keep guitar and violin wood sounding deep and rich and non-"tinny". At least that is the theory based on how flexible, water resistant, and long lasting it is. As a hybrid, it sets up so the finish doesn't need to be rejuvenated once a month or once a year forever, either, like oil finishes before the modern non-heirloom era. If finishes were put on to be passed down through the ages, you would be more concerned with all the properties, not only if you can leave it in under water forever. You don't store heirlooms under water. However you don't want the Finish cracking and the heirloom, cracking, or drying out over time. So water proof is how you define it.

Because it contains unique bonding properties, the less you use of it, the better it works - especially when you are going for the most brilliant Weatherby-style shine. The difference is without regard to the shine, the surface will feel smooth to the hands AND dull, or smooth to the hands AND whatever shine you select.
It is imperitive to follow the directions as to how little of it to use when, give proper setup time, etc.

You can flame me if you want, that doesn't make me a liar, and while it is only my word, my word has been upheld by a number of others across threads and sections, already here with reference to Moly-Fusion - also rather unique in properties, but for metal, not wood. It is unique, even if not the product everyone is talking about here.
 

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Techshooter.

IF I have a wood that I stained or a peice of laminate that was stained bright colors but not finished. (sealed?) can you use your product on it as a last coat?

I have an unfinished stock that I've sanded down and used a blue wood stain on. Was going to use a poly coating over the stain to seal everything and give it a shine but your product sounds interesting. I wouldn't want to use it if it's going to darken the stain though.

BTW, Thanks for extending the special on the moly fusion. I havn't gotten mine yet cause I've been spending all my time/$$ on this project, but I've been hearing great things about it and plan on ordering soon. :t
 
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