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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
can some one help me out that is good at this . can you use a stock say from a rem. 40x fill it in with a material and then inlet it out for the 10-22. if not use a 10-22 stock cut the butt and forarm off of each and attach the 40x to the action part of the 10-22 any thoughts or ideals. i have a few 40x stocks laying around that i really like the feel of. thanks bull
 

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can some one help me out that is good at this . can you use a stock say from a rem. 40x fill it in with a material and then inlet it out for the 10-22. if not use a 10-22 stock cut the butt and forarm off of each and attach the 40x to the action part of the 10-22 any thoughts or ideals. i have a few 40x stocks laying around that i really like the feel of. thanks bull
If you use bondo to fill in all the gaps and you are going to paint it, you can use any stock to build with. Just as long as you cover it with paint, others would never know it used to be a Remington stock.
 

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is bondo hard enough to cut it out with a router. and drill . or should i use something tougher
Well... I am meaning just to use the bondo on the outside to shape and smooth any edges you need to where two different sections are glued together. I assumed since your going to use the part of the 10/22 stock that is inletted for the receiver, you won't need to route out anything there. What are you needing to route??

Glue all your pieces together the best you can, and get them to match as close as you can, then shape the stock the way you want it, then use bondo to fill in where needed before you paint the stock. If I am still missing something, help me out... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
im sorry i missunderstude you, useing the 10-22 action part what would you suggest doing to make this a good fit. i can do about anything just need dirrections sorry for pulling you into this.
 

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im sorry i missunderstude you, useing the 10-22 action part what would you suggest doing to make this a good fit. i can do about anything just need dirrections sorry for pulling you into this.
Thats ok. There might be others to give advice too and some better than mine. I would cut the butt stock off at the wrist (Pistolgrip) somewhere. The you need to cut the stock your are using to replace the buttstock in a good place, the correct angle and all so it will meet up good and leave the pistol grip in a good angle. These will need to be square, or you will have your buttstock cast off too far or cast on too far... meaning leaning too much to the left or right. Try to get both peices that are going to be glued, square so the butt stock is straight, Same with the forearm. Just keep it straight and level in the barrel channel. You can shape them all together once they are glued together. It is going to be your eye that tells you what it a good fit or not. You could take pictures of where you think you want to cut them, post them on here and let us look it over before you cut.
 

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i will do that only dont know how to post the pics. does there need to be an steel or wood dowel to make them strong.
You can, but its hard to get two totally different pieces with angles to line up together perfectly. Hard to drill the holes perfect in both pieces. Titebond II wood glue is very strong. What you can do is add a threaded rod in the forearm aftre its together. Somewhere in the barrel channel to secure the two pieces, and also the butt stock. You can drill back through where the receiver cut out is, back into the pistol grip area and add a small diameter threaded rod and epoxy it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i saw in a post where the tock was cut in a v shape and then fit into the other this might be a better way to piece the butt together. for the fore arm can i just build it up with the bondo as you described. if anyone can post me some pics. i would really appreciate it. im the type person a pic. is worth a thousand words. thanks
 

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10/22 stock switch

I to have thought about something like what you are talking about, How about filling the existing inleting with pieces of hardwood and some type of bedding material and have it re-inletted...don't forget about the bolt slot...or hog out the 40x as thin as prudent and then cut out the 10/22 action and thin the outside and bed it in the 40x., fit as needed....I have a birdseye maple '03 stock that I've been thinking about using and I don't want to use bondo and paint.....also thought about thining the 10/22 's outside dimensions and laminating the birdseye to the outside......still thinking..............
 

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Please don't take this as an insult, but are you guys nuts?

Cut the butt off one stock and expect any glue to hold it together? Even with good doweling, I would expect easy breakage.

It's not that hard to inlet a stock for a 10/22. The escutcheon can be made with an electric drill and files if you don't have access to a lathe.

A 40X stock should have plenty of meat to allow a 10/22 receiver.

I'm a little lazy about some things, so removing a little too much wood isn't a real problem, I'm going to glass bed it anyway, and I free float my barrels.

As far as the Bondo, you can pookie up about any shape you want on a factory 10/22 stock, and, as noted, paint covers all. For those wanting some texture, a home decorating product called Fleck Stone gives some interesting results. With all the factory stocks floating around for $15-30, what you mainly have invested is your time.

So, rasp a little here for thumb relief, pookie a little there to accentuate the PG, add a palm swell, raise the cheek piece about an inch ( you're not going to use iron sights anyway). Sand, paint. Voila! A one of a kind custom stock.

Then, if you really like the result, tape it up and send it to Great American Gunstock or somebody to have it duplicated in walnut or maple or laminate.

So break out the chisels and rasps and the pocket knife, and start on one of those 40X stocks.

Hint: figure out where you want the trigger FIRST.:D
 

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Bondo's pretty sturdy, but I wouldn't trust it for load bearing, like a pillar in the middle of an island of Bondo. OK to fill gaps, change contours. Any big defects ought to get a hardwood (preferably walnut in a walnut stock, for appearance sake) plug carved to shape and glued in with AccraGlas ( I like the gel-less runny).

Seriously, I don't see how there can be that much to fill putting a 10/22 in a 40X stock.

Enjoy!:bthumb:
 

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You can alter any shape , but you have to work along the original , to maintain its itegrity and strength , If you want to fit a 10/22 into a stock try starting with a cheap 10/22 stock and develop that to what you want . Dave
 

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Please don't take this as an insult, but are you guys nuts?

Cut the butt off one stock and expect any glue to hold it together? Even with good doweling, I would expect easy breakage.
Its fairly easy to do, and will hold together nicely if done right. Its not for a high recoil gun, so there will not be much stress on the wrist area of the stock.
 

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still thinking

What if.....You squared out the inside of the 40x ....make a clay base that fits the bottom of what you made , take the 10/22 action and make a impresion in the clay, and cast a frame, kinda like the accurate inovation stock chassis, I'm Thinking ACRA-GLASS, then you would have a frame to glass into the 40x stock.could even put in pillars at this point, You could adjust the up, down of where you wanted the 10/22 to fit...fill in the difference with hardwood of choice,or maybe aluminium plate?.... or just say your nuts and buy a production stock for a original 'one of'..............still thinking.........
 

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Hi, I used to be a joiner ,so I have a few tools at home now , the cutting was done on a small table saw . I enjoy doing the stock mods as it keeps me in touch with the wood and it is a bit of creative licence . If you can start with something thats not to important just in case it should be mucked up . When it turns out well its something to be proud of . Dave
 
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