Rimfire Central Firearm Forum banner
1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Update - So, I'm about to dye this pepper stock

I've got a pepper laminate I've stripped, and after a little more prep work I will be ready to dye it (along with some t-shirts I suppose) soon. My inspiration is/was the Green Mamba:

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=1206&password=&sort=1&cat=2&page=5

which I understand was also done over a pepper. I think it is great looking. Anyway.. A question for some of you experienced hands.

Do I need to bleach this thing before the dye is applied, or will that take out too much of the existing black in the laminate, and..

If I hate the outcome, can I just bleach it clean and start over?

Thanks.

PS That stripper is some evil stuff when even just a little bit drips on your skin. Wow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
saweeeeet!!!

Saweeeet!!! I never even thought there was a possibility of changing colors of my yukon electric blue stock.... hmmmmm.... you got my wheels turning... seems like i never stop learning on this site....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm going the Rit route. I just came back from the store, and, of course, they didn't have all the colors (for mixing) that I was looking for. City life. See, this way I can make Matching Shooting Shirts and Socks. (I really try to coordinate all of my accessories for a day on the range.) :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,605 Posts
Dying

I do not think that you will have to bleach the laminate before you begin.

I have had to re-bleach a Birch stock before to get out a bad choice of dye.

A word of caution:

- mix seperate dyes exactly as indicated, and

- if you are not satisfied when dry, bleach immediately.

I have only had to re-do two different stocks, one was after applying poly because I was going for a charcoal-ash-gray color (that wasn't working) and I wanted to see what the ambering would do on top. I just wanted to see because I have done many green, purple, blue and red ones and have finally come to accept that the final color before the spar is not really great looking (kind of funky actually) but after the spar it just comes out more rich, deep and golden. Anyway, on the ashen one the color sucked, so it got stripped, bleached, basically done it over completely.

The other stock I wanted to do purple, which I didn't have any dye left so I mixed blue and red, but it turned brown instead, took most of it off with bleach in under five minutes.

Oh, that reminds me. I usually warm up the stock over a hot air vent or whatever to allow the pores to open. Well, when I bleached the brownish-purple one I decided to rinse it with hot water. Pretty wild looking as you could see the wood lose the dye from the bleach, but under the hot rinse it would seep out and come right back. Took a few cycles of bleach/hot water before I felt it was all gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,177 Posts
Green Mamba

Ozob, I too greatly admired the looks of the Green Mamba, and in fact I duplicated it. Mine came out very well and looks just like the picture you posted. An RFC member named MCR built this rifle. Here is a link to one of his posts describing how he applied this finish.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=461497&postcount=28
For more info, do a search on Green Mamba.

I varied my application a little bit from MRC's in that I let the first coat of Tung Oil stain dry overnight before applying the second coat. I then finished with 8 coats of spray on Minwax Polyurethane and then rubbed out the finish. (There is, of course, some steel wool and wet sanding activity between various coats)

If I hate the outcome, can I just bleach it clean and start over?
No need to bleach the Midnight laminate stock. The black layers are stained before the blank is glued up. I tried to use Minwax Polycrylic (water based) and screwed it up twice before switching to the Polyurethane. Both times I just sanded back to the bare wood and started all over. This, of course, applies only to the tung oil stain. I have never tried the Rit Dye and will certainly defer to markdperkins on that subject.

If I were asked to give any advice, I'd just say to sand the stock really, really well, and don't rush the project. Keep us posted on your progress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,547 Posts
OZOB,

so far have done 4 un-fininshed lamis and dont think bleaching a lami will be a good idea as it mat bleach out the "black" ( gray ) sections. bleaching as done by mark was on birch stocks which really have no color once sanded down. have used rit on all 4 stocks, purple, scarlet, yellow and tangerine to enhance the lighter sections of the lami. used the powder and even if using hot water to dissolve the powder, still crystilized after application. next project will be using the liquid rit dye. i used minwax
poly and that stuff makes the gray look black and enhances the dyed colors. think there are a few shades of green, which i dont care for, but to each their own taste.
good luck on your project and pics when done.








 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone! Excellent feedback and links.

The current plan is to prep then dye and see how it looks. Then a few coats of a gloss minwax spar urethane finish and polish to get it 'deep'. Believe it or not I am going to brush the finish stuff on, since I don't have a good place to spray it in my high-rise. Urban living has a down side. I'm using the liquid rit cut with rubbing alcohol.

It might be a view days, but I will put up some photos when I'm done.

Thanks again all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I've been spending some time on this project, and learning a few things (that some others have probably already learned..). I dyed this pepper stock with scarlet rit dye, and I've noticed some others have been doing this as well recently, and also in the past. Couple things I've learned so far:

1. Red is a good choice over the pepper. Deep red. Cool. Probably look outstanding with stainless stuff, like some of the other great recent posts.
2. The work area looks like a crime scene. You REALLY want to clean up before you have friends/guests over. (Hey Ozob, who did you cut up here...?)
3. Rit seems okay, but it doesn't penetrate real deep. Maybe other stains/dyes don't either, I don't know. The laminate stocks are NOT real sponges. They stain okay, just not real deep. So, if you sand a little too much, fresh wood appears.
4. Brush on gloss spar polyurethane minwax stuff makes for a very nice, deep finish, but, it seems to be designed to RUN. Which means sanding, which means see #3 above. I'm still working on this part. The runny parts also take freaking forever to cure. The other (thin/proper finish) parts are good within 24-48 hours, but those blobs, well, soft for a few days at least.
5. Next time (admit it, there is ALWAYS a next time) I think I will do a tinted wood stain/finish, as described by others, and some sort of tung oil/finish.
6. The very glossy finishes are very cool, very deep, and I'm glad I did it (this was the plan), but the gloss makes it almost hard to see the texture of the grain. So, I guess you want at least one of each....

I will be posting a photo soon, but the upshot is you can get a pretty nice looking stock with just a little willingness to experiment. It may not be unique, only because SOMEONE here will probably have TRIED it already, but for sure in the world, it will be pretty cool, and pretty rare.

So, for those of you WONDERING if you can do it, the answer is ABSOLUTELY. If I can do it, you can do it, and probably way better..

Pictures soon. Regards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
And here we go

Okay, some photos of the unfinished effort. Need another coat, work to get rid of the runs, and some final polishing. But I think you can see the color, deep red, and the effect of the gloss finish. Looks pretty good with black barrel and receiver too, highlights the black in the stock.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/photo...2242&password=&sort=1&size=medium&cat=2&page=
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/photo...2243&password=&sort=1&size=medium&cat=2&page=
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/photo...2245&password=&sort=1&size=medium&cat=2&page=
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/photo...2244&password=&sort=1&size=medium&cat=2&page=
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
SwampF0X said:
It looks great but I thought you wanted a green mamba look alike. That's not even close to the same color.

swampf0x
Yeah, I know... I wanted to try a color over a pepper. The Green Mamba was the inspiration. I didn't want to copy it directly, so I thought I would try a different color. I couldn't get all of the rit dyes needed for my first choice, so I went with red. So, it turns out I copied some red ones instead! What can I say? This was my first dye experiment, and now I have a few more I want to try. It will just never end man. (And somewhere along the line I will flat out steal the look of the green mamba, because it really is sharp)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
markdperkins said:
Ozob,

It looks great! So now you have a red one, then a green, blue, purple...you are right, it never ends!

Reminds me of this one.



Hey, cool animated GIF for an avatar, nice job also!
Thanks for the kind words. Your work is a big part of why I became interested in these things. AND you did that cool thing with my avatar! That was going to be my next effort (while waiting for the finish to cure).

Couple things:

1. How do you code the pictures so they are visible in the post instead of linked?
2. How long does it take your spar urethane to cure in the thick (runny) parts?
3. Have you tried any of the wood stains instead of dye?

I'm thinking of:

Black on black. Green (mamba). Purple (gotta do it). Orange. Ricochet has done a bunch on pepper, but I don't think I've seen pictures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,605 Posts
Well thank you, too!

Ozob said:
1. How do you code the pictures so they are visible in the post instead of linked?
Use the IMG tag with full URL and they should show up, alternatively you can just use the little toolbar button that looks like two little mountains with the sun to the upper right between the email link and the wrap code buttons.
Ozob said:
2. How long does it take your spar urethane to cure in the thick (runny) parts?
I usually use the spray stuff and keep it realy light. However, with the brush on it can take quite a while to fully cure. I would say in room temperature, normal indoor humuduty conditions that you have around 48-60 hours before it gets realy hard. Personally I use a very well polished putty knife (like a Hyde or other good quality) to remove excess after 24 hours. You will still have smooth it with very fine grain paper or wool, but it beats trying to remove drip contours IMHO.
Ozob said:
3. Have you tried any of the wood stains instead of dye?
I have tried a few and other than the RIT I can only recommend the analine dyes like Wood Burst. The RIT has more color options, is cheaper, more available and easy to correct errors with so for the most part I am sticking with it. I am still trying to perfect my technique. Sometimes it turns out better than others but I can't always figure out why. It is fun though and I have found it is pretty habit forming. Perhaps sometime soon I will quit buy all those Birch stocks and get that Richard's Microfit Tac-Driver Silhouette I keep saying that I am going to order. I went down the RIT path so I could experiment cheaply before getting an aftermarket...but I just can't seem to switch gears yet.

Ozob said:
Ricochet has done a bunch on pepper, but I don't think I've seen pictures.
Ricochet needs to post more pictures, okay, Rico?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,774 Posts
Ozob said:
3. Have you tried any of the wood stains instead of dye?
I am doing a stock using Woodburst. Red Ryder stock .

About 6 months ago, I bought some laminate scrap stocks from Boyds. I think they charged me $30 for 3 of them. I use them to experiement with stains, finishes, and sanding techniques. The Woodburst stains are cheap. I bought a few and experiemented till I got the finish I wanted.

BTW, your stock looks very cool. :t
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top