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Thanks for all of the replys and the pictures of different people's setups. I think I'm between either the UTG Bugbuster 3-9, Vortex Crossfire II 2-7 Rimfire, or a Sig Sauer Romeo 5. I think I'm leaning more towards the Vortex.
I got the rest of the rifle assembled last week, and it seems like all of the parts are moving together pretty nicely. I ordered snap caps to check the action prior to taking it out for the first time, but does anyone have any other recommendations for things to look for when first firing the rifle, to make sure everything is working as intended?
I got the rest of the rifle assembled last week, and it seems like all of the parts are moving together pretty nicely. I ordered snap caps to check the action prior to taking it out for the first time, but does anyone have any other recommendations for things to look for when first firing the rifle, to make sure everything is working as intended?
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1. Make sure your stock is lined up right. Adjustment screws on face of receiver.
Assemble with out bolt in receiver and see that barrel is centered too!
2. Get the ring screw as tight as you can then back off 2 clicks.
3 let the bolt slam forward a few times onan empty chamber to seat the barrel.
4. Load and eject a live round and see if there is any shaving or deformation.
5. Use Hornady Dri lube
6 Dont use the extended bx 25 magazine as a for-grip.
Good luck, have fun, be safe:bthumb:
Assemble with out bolt in receiver and see that barrel is centered too!
2. Get the ring screw as tight as you can then back off 2 clicks.
3 let the bolt slam forward a few times onan empty chamber to seat the barrel.
4. Load and eject a live round and see if there is any shaving or deformation.
5. Use Hornady Dri lube
6 Dont use the extended bx 25 magazine as a for-grip.
Good luck, have fun, be safe:bthumb:
Has anyone tried fitting the 10/22 takedown in a standard backpack, something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/North-Face-B...rds=Patagonia+Backpacks&qid=1612654635&sr=8-4
I got my snap caps in the mail and tried running them through the action and it seems like everything is working well. I ordered a Sig Romeo 5 that should show up on Monday, so Ill probably take it out for the first time next weekend. I'm also in the process of assembling a PVC target stand. I bought a couple of pieces of 1/2" PVC and an assortment of couplers, I'm thinking I can probably build something that would also fit in a regular backpack with the takedown, that can be easily assembled and then disassembled. I'll be trying my 10/22 out in State land first where it's not legal to shoot into live or dead trees, which is why I'm trying to make a simple portable target stand.
https://www.amazon.com/North-Face-B...rds=Patagonia+Backpacks&qid=1612654635&sr=8-4
I got my snap caps in the mail and tried running them through the action and it seems like everything is working well. I ordered a Sig Romeo 5 that should show up on Monday, so Ill probably take it out for the first time next weekend. I'm also in the process of assembling a PVC target stand. I bought a couple of pieces of 1/2" PVC and an assortment of couplers, I'm thinking I can probably build something that would also fit in a regular backpack with the takedown, that can be easily assembled and then disassembled. I'll be trying my 10/22 out in State land first where it's not legal to shoot into live or dead trees, which is why I'm trying to make a simple portable target stand.
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the old Ruger bag is ~22" and the rifle fits fairly tight..if your backpack is the 22" or bigger the rifle will fit inside
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551 Posts
Not to be difficult, but I have an alternate suggestion for scopes. I got this little Sun Optics, and it's super compact. DVOR had them half off (so $45) and I got free shipping too.
To update my build, I ran into an issue with the chamber and the extractor. I posted some images of both here:
I had tried some snap caps at home, and those cycled and eject properly just using the extractor on the bolt. When I went to use real ammo for the first time I tried to load and eject the first round using the bolt/extractor however the round did not eject, but stayed in the chamber. I dropped the mag so that a second round did not try to load, and was able to fire the round that was in the chamber and the cartridge ejected fine. I reinserted the mag and was able to fire the rest of the rounds without any issue, they seemed to be ejecting without any problem if they were fired. It was only when I tried to manually eject the round without firing it that I ran into this problem. I found this happened a couple of times where if I wanted to drop the mag and stop shooting, the round in the chamber was stuck and I had to fire it to clear it. It seemed stuck in there decently well where it would not slide out, although I was outside and it was cold so I didn't want to try to pry it out with anything while I was testing out this build.
I emailed WhistlePig and they suggested I may have an issue with a burr on the chamber based on the photos I sent, and recommended a dremel rubber polishing bit to deburr the edge of the chamber. They mentioned that I should be able to stick a live round in the end of the barrel, and if I turn it upside down it should fall out. I tried this with both a CCI Mini Mag round and an Aguila round and they both stayed seated in the chamber. I was able to pull the out by hand though. I did find that the snap caps seemed to fall out without issue, so they must be slightly smaller in diameter than the live round.
I was wondering if it could just be the chamber, or maybe there is an issue with my extractor as well? I am also not sure where the damage to the barrel came from. I didn't have a before picture of the barrel so I'm assuming the damage came from something I did during assembly, or it could be something related to the bolt? I did dry fire it a couple of times but I thought that Ruger's were OK dry fire, although in retrospect I should've realized that only pertains to a factory build.
In the meantime I've ordered the dremel polishing bit that Whistle Pig recommended and will try deburring the chamber in a couple of days when it arrives.
I had tried some snap caps at home, and those cycled and eject properly just using the extractor on the bolt. When I went to use real ammo for the first time I tried to load and eject the first round using the bolt/extractor however the round did not eject, but stayed in the chamber. I dropped the mag so that a second round did not try to load, and was able to fire the round that was in the chamber and the cartridge ejected fine. I reinserted the mag and was able to fire the rest of the rounds without any issue, they seemed to be ejecting without any problem if they were fired. It was only when I tried to manually eject the round without firing it that I ran into this problem. I found this happened a couple of times where if I wanted to drop the mag and stop shooting, the round in the chamber was stuck and I had to fire it to clear it. It seemed stuck in there decently well where it would not slide out, although I was outside and it was cold so I didn't want to try to pry it out with anything while I was testing out this build.
I emailed WhistlePig and they suggested I may have an issue with a burr on the chamber based on the photos I sent, and recommended a dremel rubber polishing bit to deburr the edge of the chamber. They mentioned that I should be able to stick a live round in the end of the barrel, and if I turn it upside down it should fall out. I tried this with both a CCI Mini Mag round and an Aguila round and they both stayed seated in the chamber. I was able to pull the out by hand though. I did find that the snap caps seemed to fall out without issue, so they must be slightly smaller in diameter than the live round.
I was wondering if it could just be the chamber, or maybe there is an issue with my extractor as well? I am also not sure where the damage to the barrel came from. I didn't have a before picture of the barrel so I'm assuming the damage came from something I did during assembly, or it could be something related to the bolt? I did dry fire it a couple of times but I thought that Ruger's were OK dry fire, although in retrospect I should've realized that only pertains to a factory build.
In the meantime I've ordered the dremel polishing bit that Whistle Pig recommended and will try deburring the chamber in a couple of days when it arrives.
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551 Posts
First, thanks for taking some excellent photos! That always helps with troubleshooting. Your chamber looks nasty. Giving it a good polish should definitely help with extraction, and overall reliability.
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12,088 Posts
Heres a pic of my new scope , Mueller Speed Shot , An upgrade from my TRS 25 red dot. 1 x 4 , magnified red dot https://muelleroptics.com/products/mueller-speed-shot-1-4x24/
Im pretty jazzed about it , to the range tomorrow!
Im pretty jazzed about it , to the range tomorrow!
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12,088 Posts
Well 8 days later , I finally made it to the range. Zeroed in at 25 yards in 3 shots, and spent the rest of the hour happily punching paper
This is aHuge improvement over a TRS 25 red dot. At 4x , i can see the holes at 25 yards. Iwas worried that the 100 yard parallax would limit the scopes use at 25 yards, but mot a problem. The eyebox is huge and the eye relief good and as the dot is in the center its natural for my eye to line up the same everytime, and 4x isn’t to much magnification .
I am super pleased with this scope dot, and i think its perfect for use on my TD.
Im thinking about putting one on my AR, and my Mini 14. And everything else i have a std red dot on.
This is aHuge improvement over a TRS 25 red dot. At 4x , i can see the holes at 25 yards. Iwas worried that the 100 yard parallax would limit the scopes use at 25 yards, but mot a problem. The eyebox is huge and the eye relief good and as the dot is in the center its natural for my eye to line up the same everytime, and 4x isn’t to much magnification .
I am super pleased with this scope dot, and i think its perfect for use on my TD.
Im thinking about putting one on my AR, and my Mini 14. And everything else i have a std red dot on.
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