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Savage 6A/ Western Field 59A

403 Views 13 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  OldRetiredGuy
I found this old gem in an old safe found a ton of overspray and thought I try my best to clean it up. got it almost completely dissembled and now I'm stuck. I cant get the mag tube to separate from the loading mechanism. I don't quite know if anyone could help it is greatly appreciated I know there is not many of these left. I will try to get some better pics tomorrow.
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I found this old gem in an old safe found a ton of overspray and thought I try my best to clean it up. got it almost completely dissembled and now I'm stuck. I cant get the mag tube to separate from the loading mechanism. I don't quite know if anyone could help it is greatly appreciated I know there is not many of these left. I will try to get some better pics tomorrow.
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As a generality, buy a can of automotive Knock R Loose, penetrating oil, one of the ones that dissolves rust corrosion and loosens frozen parts. The orange and black can works best.

I am generally ignorant of disassembly, but the feed lips on the lifter assembly are up into the receiver tube. The assembly may have to come downward first as its first motion. Not rearward out if the magazine tube. Which MIGHT mean getting the magazine tube forward first.

Don’t force it down. It will bend to H.

The lifter assembly seems to go into the mag tube. The automotive stuff chemically heats and dissolves some rust stuff.

There is a hint in this thread that mag tube removal is a Rat Sc…


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The short version is the mag outer tube is put through the dovetail lug, and probably on to the lifter, and then a punch through the lug screw hole dents the tube. The dent is upward and outward of the tube towards and into a recess in the lug‘s barrel side. I am thinking getting the lug off and the outer tube out is a hammer job. Read the thread. Never intended to be disassembled, in my opinion.

Photo: Like top view.
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From this thread. Pictures come and go invisible in old thread. Copied to here.

Its entirely possible to clean and restore function without removing the lifter assembly. Spray, brush, flush. Repeat. Get the auto rust cutter.

The parts in your photo don’t look all that bad. Getting the lifter screws out means the assembly isn’t all that corroded. The inside of the mag tube is what matters, not the outside of the shell.

Musical instrument Plant Gas Cylinder Bumper




Should look like:

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Parts:

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Here is my process:

The problem you will run into is the outer magazine goes inside the lifter assembly. At first look it looks like you can't remove the lifter without first removing the magazine. But then you can't remove the magazine without first removing the lifter.

It took me awhile to figure this one out. With the lifter screws removed there is just barely enough play to drift the front and then rear magazine blocks out. Then you can remove the magazine and lifter. To reassemble you need to remove the magazine from the rear block because it won't go back in like it came out. If you look you will see a hole in the top and bottom of the block. Use a punch and gently tap from the top to take out the magazine retaining dimple, the magazine will come free. Reinstall the lifter and the rear magazine block onto the rifle. Slide the magazine through the block and into the lifter. Make sure the magazine is correctly positioned with the hole in the magazine lined with the hole in the block. Then use a punch through the bottom hole of the rear magazine block to lightly tap the retaining dimple back in the magazine tube. Loosen the lifter screws so it has some play. Slide the front magazine block on and drift it back into place. Now position the lifter and re-tighten.

Now a word of caution. GO SLOW and take your time. If you try to rush or force something you will most likely break something.
 

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I am thinking bending it was not the best idea.

Worst to worst:

And you still have to move the outer mag shell forward, wood block and hammer, install the lifter assembly, and move the shell back onto the lifter.

This after you straighten and reinstall the small parts now out of the lifter.

-Is the bore good?
-Do you like black engine paint since thats about the choice the rust gives youmon the forward parts?
-What does the wood look like?
 

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Montgomery Wards branded Western Field M59A of which I assume you have from the title is a Stevens 87A which is more or less a Savage 6A. The A is the difference between a pre-click-clack gun known as 6/87/59 and the 6A/87A/59A clackers.

Gun Parts Schematics for 87A. Not much listed for 87 and 6.


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An 87A/6A/59A should look like this, the bottom 6A:

Air gun Trigger Shotgun Gun accessory Auto part



My actual M59 below for reference of what a 59A is NOT:

Air gun Trigger Shotgun Machine gun Gun barrel


NRA list does not list a M59A that I see.
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