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Really bad idea?

5768 Views 78 Replies 40 Participants Last post by  cosmicfire
so i think this is a bad idea & i'm looking for reinforcement. a friend found an abused 39A for cheap. he's in the process of cleaning it up & thinks that running a cleaning brush dipped in muriatic acid several times thru the barrel will clean the bore. i told him that it will likely do some serious damage. what do y'all think? i did see on one of those true crime shows i saw where a guy did this trying to change the rifling so the gun couldn't be matched in a criminal ballistics tests but that's not the goal here.
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Using a brush for the acid will not be enough. Tell him to plug the bore, fill it with acid, and let it sit overnight.
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Run a regular brush and cleaning solution through it. Take it to the range and run a box of jacketed ammo through it. Then try cleaning it again and see what you have, Jacked ammo will help clean out lead buildup and some of the stuck on crap.
I certainly would not use muratic acid in any barrel!!!! What I would use is SWEETS cleaning solution and follow the insructions., If that doesn't clean it to your satisfaction add a little more ammonia to the Sweets and let it sit a little longer then the direction ., Key word here is a little, that doesn't mean a lot ., Make sure you clean the Sweets TOTALLY out of the barrel and chamber and bone dry then clean the barrel and chamber the a good cleaner and lubracant because the amonia in the Sweets will strip all lube/preservative out of the barrel allowing it to rust., So the re-lubing is a Must! Good Luck

Ellery/RT
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I used to use Muriatic acid to clean rust off of steel that I needed to weld on. It is nasty stuff, I hope he knows how to handle it safely!

I can't imagine that it will hurt the bore, but it probably won't do any of the finishes any good. Unless he plans to leave in the bore for weeks or longer. Then it will likely damage the bore. Neutralizing it will be nearly or more damaging than the acid itself. It will remove every trace of oil in the steel and that steel will flash rust unless oiled immediately. As in don't dry the bore from the neutralizing water flush, use an oiled patch to remove the water from the bore.

If he still feel the need to use an acid on the bore suggest that he use white vinegar instead. It is a fairly strong Citric Acid and is what I now use to clean the rust off of steel that I need to weld on. Nearly as effective and a whole lot safer to handle.
Muriatic acid is another name for HCl (hydrochloride acid), which is great at eating clothing, and very dangerous to eyes, skin and lungs. Vinegar, various types, is 5% acetic acid—-ever so much safer. HCl gas is a respiratory danger. HCl left in contact with ferrous metals will produce ferrous chloride and hydrogen gas. HCl and copper will also release hydrogen gas.
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NO!!! Just NO!!! Do not ruin that rifle.

That said, I once obtained an antique early Swiss Vetterli rifle, the first bolt action repeating rifle in general issue, for which there is no ammo available, primarily as it was originally a rimfire cartridge and it was never a common cartridge in the US. The rifle, however, was a relatively uncommon manufacturer and variation of the rifle and had a numbers matched bayonet. Unfortunately, while the rifle was cosmetically clean on the exterior with good blueing and remaining color case hardening on the receiver, as well as great wood, the bore was a sewer pipe. Repeated normal cleaning barely put a dent in it, but at least confirmed it was still rifled.

After speaking to a old collector, I decided to try more aggressive measures and used bronze wool on the jag. A bit better. I then tried steel wool. A bit better, but still dark. Finally, for the big push, I stripped the rifle down to just the barreled action and masked off the muzzle and 6" of the exterior of the barrel and plugged the chamber with a spent cartridge case and silicon sealer. After it dried, I then took a Dewey rod and an old smaller caliber stiff plastic-bristled bore brusn and rapped a small cotton patch over the brush and applied naval jelly to the patch and ran it up and down the bore.

(WARNING! Naval jelly is 70% water and 30% phosphoric acid-based, so you NEED gloves and protective eyewear, etc. It will eat cotton patches and clothes, and totally ruin the finish as blueing is just controlled rust. So be very careful!)

I then took off the brush and patch, cleaned off the rod and put a a clean brush and distilled water-soaked patch on the rod and rinsed out the bore. I did the rinsing with distilled water using new brushes and patches about 5 or 6 times. Each brush was dropped into a baking soda and water mix bowl. I then began using a baking soda water mix to neutralize any remaining acid from the naval jelly. I finished by using boiling water to heat the barrel and after dumping the water, I knocked out the spent cartridge plug with dowel and blew hot air down the bore. The bore now looked acceptable. I then wiped the bore with oil.

The next day I cleaned it with a proper-sized brush and Hoppes. The bore looked much better, had a shine with some less shiny spots, and the rifling was very evident although showed wear, but the rod did not show any noticable rough feel. I repeated the cleaning each day for 2-3 days. I then cleaned and oiled the bore and let it go for 2 days. Upon inspection, and cleaning the patches were clear, I did a thorough cleaning and oiling. After a week I repeated the cleaning and let it sit overnight without oil. The next day there was no evidence of rust so I oiled the bore and reassembled the rifle.

I have considered converting the rifle to centerfire (an easy conversion), but decided to pass as the early versions were made by many makers and are not consistent with bore diameters (they used paper patched bullets) or bolt interchangability and finding a donor bolt that fits is iffy. Modifying the original matching bolt would lower the value. But that old collectable war-horse, the first general-issue bolt action repeating infantry rifle, is restored to shootability.
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so i think this is a bad idea & i'm looking for reinforcement. a friend found an abused 39A for cheap. he's in the process of cleaning it up & thinks that running a cleaning brush dipped in muriatic acid several times thru the barrel will clean the bore. i told him that it will likely do some serious damage. what do y'all think? i did see on one of those true crime shows i saw where a guy did this trying to change the rifling so the gun couldn't be matched in a criminal ballistics tests but that's not the goal here.
Vinegar & hydrogen peroxide is a better idea to remove leading.
Vinegar & hydrogen peroxide is a better idea to remove leading.
So you want to use hydrogen peroxide. Here's the opinions concerning concentrations and use, from chemists.



**
So you want to use hydrogen peroxide. Here's the opinions concerning concentrations and use, from chemists.



**
Interesting for sure, all I can say is an 1873 44-40 with no visible rifling had a 24 hr soak with black foamy gunk pouring out. Rifling was showing but as it was found in a barn & had been there for yrs, bore was about same condition as exterior. My opinion before starting was: it was not a Turnbull candidate and a half box of ammo later it was a shotgun. So a $3k gun with $4.5k of resto was still going to be a $3k wall hanger. Nothing ventured and no high pressure later from fouled bore I think I was close.
Seems like there is only one thing that we all can agree on:
...... you can't fix stup
Yes, very definitely a VERY bad idea! I've never heard of anyone using muriatic acid as a bore cleaner, or for anything else on a firearm. It's certainly not anything you'd want as a first step. The idea is to clean and polish the bore without scratching it or pitting it, leaving a mirror-smooth finish that doesn't collect lead, copper and powder residue. Why on earth would anyone employ a corrosive for that? I've cleaned some extremely neglected 22 bores over the years, and never needed anything more than standard bore cleaners like Hoppe's or perhaps Kroil and J-B Bore Cleaner. I've even tried, briefly, one of the Lyman electrolytic bore cleaners and decided it was way more trouble and effort than it was worse. One of the worst I've seen was another 39A. It was one of the old ones with the Ballard rifling, from before they started using the MicroGroove barrels. It dated from 1947 and had spent it's early years being carried around the Idaho woods by a couple of teenagers. It had a very minor ring in the barrel, right under the rear sight dovetail, from being fired with an obstructed bore at one time or another. The current owner's husband had "cleaned" it for her a few times by dragging a Bore Snake through it. I soaked it overnight with Kroil and then pushed a patch through, bringing out strips of lead several inches long from the grooves. Lots of Kroil, brushing, and general elbow grease involving J-B Bore Cleaner on VFG pellets, and the old girl was shooting 25-yard groups that you could cover with a dime, using iron sights.
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I hope folks realize my post was in jest. If Kroil and JB Bore Paste will not fix your problem, then you need a new barrel IMO.
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Starting with clr instead would be way less awful
At least one of the Notable F-Class shooters likes CLR. I use it to clean fired brass. It really goes after carbon and rust. I doubt it does much for lead fouling. Chemistry is wrong.
Way back when we use to use MA to clean boat propellers. It worked great. You just can't leave it on there to long. You have to have something to neutralize it. With a prop it was fresh water....with a gun???
The chemistry is right for using CLR to attack barnacles and such. It will decimate the calcium long before it will damage brass. But, it will etch brass if you leave it too long. Muriatic (Hydochloric) acid is commonly used to clean calcium from hard water off of porcelain (toilets).
If you guys are so scared of MA then try citric acid. It will remove the rust. It's cheap and when you get through fixing your rust problem you can sprinkle some on your popcorn.
Popcorn? I like popcorn!! Lmao
there is some good popcorn on post 40.
so i think this is a bad idea & i'm looking for reinforcement. a friend found an abused 39A for cheap. he's in the process of cleaning it up & thinks that running a cleaning brush dipped in muriatic acid several times thru the barrel will clean the bore. i told him that it will likely do some serious damage. what do y'all think? i did see on one of those true crime shows i saw where a guy did this trying to change the rifling so the gun couldn't be matched in a criminal ballistics tests but that's not the goal here.
Tell your friend to put that Muriatic acid on his hands...... that will give him his answere to his really stupid query. Consider your true crime show example. The criminal was using acid to
erode, dissolve, eliminate his rifling. I know people don't like to hear it, but his idea is beyond stupid.
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I doubt he was trying to get the rust off of his hands
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I get the feeling that I'm one of the very few who've posted in this thread who have actually used Muriactic Acid on steel. It's not instant death and destruction to steel. It takes a lot, lot longer to do damage. BT, DT, can't find the picture of it (NOT a firearm).

That said, it is a bad idea. The stuff is way more dangerous to him than it is to the barrel. What it will do to any bluing or wood finish it happens to come into contact with I can only guess, and poorly at that. I wouldn't risk it when there are safer alternatives. Even white vinegar will remove Cadmium plating, that is exactly what I use it for. No idea what it will do to bluing or wood finish either, but at least it won't damage his lungs in the process.
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