[DrGunner]

So, I decided to start a new thread and take pics all the way through my bedding process. I did not take pics as I was inletting for the pillars, but the process is simple. Start by removing the existing escutcheon. Then drill a pass thru hole, 7/16". If you plan on using the existing escutcheon, drill down to it carefully with a 7/16" Forstner bit in a drill press. Yes, Folks, I finally bought one, a Ryobi table top model.
Then inlet for the wider portion of the pillar flange, which uses the pillar from a Watts 683-A Flange fitting. Doing so requires a 7/8" Forstner bit. There is a step down on the pillar, which is inletted with e 5/8" Forstner. On this stock, I decided to use a double pillar method, with a 1/4-20 cap screw, which will be recessed into the lower escutcheon- the recess is done with a 7/16" 4 flute end mill bit. Azguy made some to order for me to get me started, and I ordered the bits to do my own.

The pillar flange diagram, compliments of Azguy (Thanks George!!!)

The lower escutcheon:

The Pillar- 2 Pieces:

DrGunner

 

[DrGunner]

Inletting of the Upper Pillar, Takedown area

More to come; up next- Inletting of the Lower escutcheon, followed by Inletting for the Rear Tang.

DrGunner

 

[DrGunner]

Lower Escutcheon Inletting

DrG

 

[DrGunner]

Rear Tang Inletting

Well, this one posed an interesting challenge. The pistol grip on the Raptor stock has a very large screw running through it- a strength augmenting technique known as "pinning the wrist". The screw has a square drive socket and was 4" long.
I removed it, drilled and countersunk the hole deeper, and shortened the screw by 1/2" to get it out of the way of the Kidd rear tang escutcheon that is on the Ruger receiver going into this build. This one is for my son- he chose the stock.
Here are the particulars of the build:

PWS Raptor Stock, in Blue LaminatePillar & Devcon bedded
Ruger OEM Receiver w Kidd rear tang
Kidd Scalloped silver bolt
Kidd charging rod & spring
Kidd single stage @ 1.5#
GM 20" Fluted taper barrel, floated
Tactical Inc M22/50 compensator
Offhand scope:
Nikon Monarch 3-9X40 BDC scope w/Burris QD rings
Bench Scope:
Mueller 8.5-25x44AO Tactical scope on Burris QD rings, low

As per my usual practice, the Devocn will be 1/8" thick surrounding the rear tang.

DrGunner

 

[OleFreak]

DrG- Do you have enuf space under the spindle for a cross-slide vise or table & mill vise to go with that Ryobi?

 

[GBLEV173]

Nice clean work DrGunner. Looks Like you are liking that new drill press. I'm sure it made things easier for you. My buddy just gave me a small 10" press they really help with the inletting. I will be following this one.

Greg

 

[DrGunner]

DrG- Do you have enuf space under the spindle for a cross-slide vise or table & mill vise to go with that Ryobi?

Yes, I ordered a cross slide last night. All I had on hand when I did this was a simple $20 Home Depot drill press vise. When I get the cross slide, I'm going to make high sided inserts for the jaws out of solid oak, and line them with heavy leather to make a stock holder out of it...

Then I should be able to use end mill bits and Forstners to plunge cut and true up rear tangs...

I'm also going to use a 7/16" 4 flute end mill to remove the Ruger escutcheons from my stocks, then retrofit them with this lower pillar escutcheon and 1/4-20 button head cap screws. You would not believe how solid this system is, George. I put this action in the stock with a cap screw- no bedding, no rear tang, and its every bit as solid as my 'tanged rifles, with the screw lightly snugged.
No wiggle on the receiver.... Think about the surface area involved to spread the load. And this is a free float stock, the barrel makes no contact anywhere.

DrG

 

[DrGunner]

Nice clean work DrGunner. Looks Like you are liking that new drill press. I'm sure it made things easier for you. My buddy just gave me a small 10" press they really help with the inletting. I will be following this one.

Greg

Easier is an understatement!!! I did the inletting for the pillar, top and bottom, in a couple of hours. One night in the shop and I had all the inletting done, front and back. Before- with only my drill and dremel, that would have taken me two or three 4 hour sessions!!!!

I can't believe I've been handicapping myself for so long. Not that I don't enjoy the work; its the hobby aspect of this stuff that I love so much, but seriously- I should have had a drill press decades ago...

DrG

 

[Dr Heckel]

Looks like you're doing an amazing job once again Doc! Your skill at this aspect of 10/22 building is really impressive!!

I'm looking forward to seeing this one all finished up:bthumb:

 

[saburai]

Doc, did you get the vise from the link I sent you?

 

[bobcatr]

The 2 peice pillar is very nice. Very interesting. Looking forward to more.

 

[DrGunner]

Doc, did you get the vise from the link I sent you?

Yes, I did- and Thank you. I ordered something similar last night. Should have it along with end mill bits this week:bthumb:

DrG

 

[Bill40718]

Dr.G,

Does the top escutcheon stand slightly proud of the stock material?
Will there be Devcon in the area of the forward attachment screw?

Bill

 

[DrGunner]

Dr.G,

Does the top escutcheon stand slightly proud of the stock material?
Will there be Devcon in the area of the forward attachment screw?

Bill

Yes, the front pillar is .015-.020" proud under the TD area.
Yes, the pillar will be bedded in place with Devcon, top and bottom- the inletting allows for some space under each flange. Because the flanges have a 2 step configuration, the inletting under the 5/8" portion has some room. Plus, the hole for the pillar is 7/16", allowing for a full circumferential layer of mud the length of the pillar. There will also be a locking ring for each half of the pillar cut into the OD of the straight pillar portion of the stock- I cut the rings last night, and will post pics here before bedding.

I also have a little work to do truing up the rear tang inletting, I used a dremel only and its only roughed. I plan on using the drill press and cross slide vise to clean it up and true the sides before bedding the rear tang.

Work is on hold until I get the lower escutcheons from Azguy, and the 4 flute bits and vise- all should arrive on Tuesday....

But I have to build a pinewood derby car with my son Wed, Thurs, and Friday so the final work on this won't be complete until next weekend or the week after...

DrG

 

[Markbo]

Tag. I want to see your vices when you have both in please.

 

[DrGunner]

Tag. I want to see your vices when you have both in please.

I only ordered one vise.... And it arrived today-
And went back today. It was missing parts and looked used,
So I sent it back. I should have a replacement tomorrow.

DrG

 

[OleFreak]

I only ordered one vise.... And it arrived today-
And went back today. It was missing parts and looked used,
So I sent it back. I should have a replacement tomorrow.

DrG

Dag bung it! Hate when dat happens…

 

[DrGunner]

Dag bung it! Hate when dat happens…

Yeah, it was a Wilton 3" cross slide, missing one of the backing plates...
Not happy. Amazon is gonna make good, plus my 4 flute end mills and center finder won't be here til tomorrow or Wednesday.

Next step- bed the 2 piece pillar on this job. Depending on how I like the result, I will possibly machine out the Ruger escutcheons on a few other stocks and retrofit them with this lower escutcheon. I may even do away with the one piece pillar of the Tacsol Vantage and pillar it with this design, although I will probably turn the lower escutcheon down to 5/8" on that one....

DrG

 

[OleFreak]

..... it with this design, although I will probably turn the lower escutcheon down to 5/8" on that one....

DrG

Yep, kind of getting into the relief for rooting out them mags on this one. Not too deep so it shouldn't matter.

 

[DrGunner]

Yep, kind of getting into the relief for rooting out them mags on this one. Not too deep so it shouldn't matter.

Exactly- I didn't measure the Vantage, but the Raptor was RIGHT on the edge...
Besides, the bottom of the Vantage has a distinct upslope on the outer surface of the stock in the TD screw area, so laying the scoochie flat is not an option.
Turning down the flange to the "step" which is .643" is fine, enough surface area to satisfy my need for excessive stability, and still leave decent side walls around the cap screw head which is .426".
We shall see. Plan is to finish the Raptor and see if I like it. It's incredibly solid without any mud or a rear tang, just a 1/4-20x1.5" screw.
If I like, I will retrofit the Eliminator, the Archangel and one other.
If those go well, the law of uniformity will take hold of me and I will mill out the Aluminum pillar in the Vantage and do it. Nice thing is, I can just chuck the pillar into the drill press to turn the flange down to size...

DrG